Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[RevoltTrain]

7 minutes ago, terrytek said:

literally if i didn't see any pics of the exterior, i would've thought it was an nb ms miata. but it's pretty sweet that he managed to fit pretty much half NB in an NA miata. the exterior looks kinda rough, but that's nothing a paint job can't fix.

I just don't like the fact that the dedicated headlight up down switch is gone 

[RevoltTrain]

One Blipshift order shows up. Orders something else. Fuuuuuuck 

[Donut417]

Not sure if this is a good place to ask. I have a 2006 Ford Focus. Recently replaced the blower motor and blower motor resistor. When unplugging the blower motor, I noticed the power connector was black as it was burnt. So I got a new pig tail on order and it should be in tommrow. The blower motor was the original to the car. And it does make noise that doesn't sound normal at lower speeds. Which is why I bought a new one. Well any way, could it have been that the blower motor might have been working extra hard and pulled too much power to the plug? Or is there something else I should check? 

 

My previous symptoms was my blower motor turning off at random. I would turn it off at the switch when this happen and turn it back on and it would work for a while. The resistor was corroded. Which is why I replaced it. 

 

My plan was to splice in the new wiring and be on my way. 

[bcredeur97]

13 minutes ago, Donut417 said:

Not sure if this is a good place to ask. I have a 2006 Ford Focus. Recently replaced the blower motor and blower motor resistor. When unplugging the blower motor, I noticed the power connector was black as it was burnt. So I got a new pig tail on order and it should be in tommrow. The blower motor was the original to the car. And it does make noise that doesn't sound normal at lower speeds. Which is why I bought a new one. Well any way, could it have been that the blower motor might have been working extra hard and pulled too much power to the plug? Or is there something else I should check? 

 

My previous symptoms was my blower motor turning off at random. I would turn it off at the switch when this happen and turn it back on and it would work for a while. The resistor was corroded. Which is why I replaced it. 

 

My plan was to splice in the new wiring and be on my way. 

Sounds like if you're replacing the motor itself along with the burnt wiring you should be /fine/ 

 

I have noticed as electronics get older they tend to run less efficiently and produce more heat and consume more power. Even on GPU's. 

 

One of my old GPU'S by the time I got rid of it;  wouldn't idle below 50F even with a clean cooler and nee thermal paste... And the heat it put out into the room was crazy so it was def the gpu itself doing that... It's interesting to me how that happens 

 

I remember it idling in the upper 30's a few years before that.... 

[infered5]

Got a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix with a leaky hardline Power Steering tube. Repair is gonna cost $3-400 depending on the shop, since they're just replacing the tube.

 

Since it's just a pinhole leak (for now), can I put some sort of adhesive around the line temporarily (temporary is relative) to fix the leak? As of now, a fluid refill gets me about 10 minutes of power steering until I have to dump another $2 of liquid in there.

 

Can I duct tape it enough to drive it 30 miles to a really nice and cheap garage? Does power steering liquid eat through duct tape?

 

Inb4 duct tape on pressurized parts warning. It already leaks, whats extra tape gonna do to harm it?

[RevoltTrain]

2 minutes ago, infered5 said:

Got a 2001 Pontiac Grand Prix with a leaky hardline Power Steering tube. Repair is gonna cost $3-400 depending on the shop, since they're just replacing the tube.

 

Since it's just a pinhole leak (for now), can I put some sort of adhesive around the line temporarily (temporary is relative) to fix the leak? As of now, a fluid refill gets me about 10 minutes of power steering until I have to dump another $2 of liquid in there.

 

Can I duct tape it enough to drive it 30 miles to a really nice and cheap garage? Does power steering liquid eat through duct tape?

 

Inb4 duct tape on pressurized parts warning. It already leaks, whats extra tape gonna do to harm it?

You'll be fine as is. You don't need power steering. And even if it runs dry on the way there it won't do any damage 

[infered5]

7 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

You'll be fine as is. You don't need power steering. And even if it runs dry on the way there it won't do any damage 

Okay, thanks. 

 

Completely hypothetically, can I duct tape or other adhesive/patch (not solder) it so much a replacement isn't necessary? Can I use half a roll and call it a day, or would the glue gunk it all up?

[AlwaysFSX]

28 minutes ago, infered5 said:

Okay, thanks. 

 

Completely hypothetically, can I duct tape or other adhesive/patch (not solder) it so much a replacement isn't necessary? Can I use half a roll and call it a day, or would the glue gunk it all up?

Patching power steering lines didn't work for me, there's too much pressure for it to hold.

[vetali]

1 hour ago, RevoltTrain said:

You'll be fine as is. You don't need power steering. And even if it runs dry on the way there it won't do any damage 

Aside from your pump destroying itself, sending metal through the power steering rack, and destroying that as well.

[AlwaysFSX]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Aside from your pump destroying itself, sending metal through the power steering rack, and destroying that as well.

Semantics

[iDeFecZx]

6 hours ago, RevoltTrain said:

Yellow fog lights is a must

#yellowfogsquad

@byalexandr

[TVwazhere]

20 hours ago, terrytek said:

and why not go axleback? cobb or corksport might have good options for it.

 

ok they don't have axle back but i doubt their catbacks would drone heavily. i feel like only cheaply made systems would drone.

20 hours ago, byalexandr said:

Idk, it already sounds really nice, especially cold starts. Not loud at all, also makes it easy to hear the turbo spool

I can personally testify, the COBB cat and catback system does not drone at all. It's about $900 for your Mazda's Gen 2 catback from what I saw on thier website, you might find it discounted slightly else ware though. Plus they look superb. My buddy keep commenting on how well the welds were done and how good the whole system sounds. It's not overly loud, when you want it to be, but is heard when you put your foot down. 0% drone at high way speeds. If you decided to go with a Catback, and your choice is cobb, I can say you will not be dissapointed.

 

[juretrn]

20 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

Too bad it's a TDI, otherwise I'd smash that.

It looks good nonetheless

Well, it's no racecar, but it can be surprisingly nippy when you need it to be. IMO most of these Audis really come into their own with TDIs - plenty of torque, great motorway economy and comfort. 

The front LEDs are really killer, aren't they?

 

@vinyldash303

Actually, I've been thinking of buying another set of alloys because it would make changing winter and summer tyres much easier. And maybe some 17-inchers would not be such a bad idea for summer tyres. 

[chaozbandit]

@MEC-777

 

 

[Speedyv]

 

I don't mind electric cars but moving all of the controls (including the turn signals) to the huge screen is just going too far. And the completely flat dash imo even takes away from the aesthetic of the car. 

[iDeFecZx]

 

[chaozbandit]

The only time we'll see two canadians on the grid: during testing

 

@MEC-777

 

[terrytek]

honestly FUCK goatheads. my bike went flat once because of them, so i took them out and ended up replacing the tube because i had no tire patches, inflated it, took it out another day, and what do you fucking know, my bike goes fucking flat again, from the same problem. why the fuck are goatheads a thing like all they do is destroy bike tires with one little micrometer wide puncture.

[RevoltTrain]

12 hours ago, vetali said:

Aside from your pump destroying itself, sending metal through the power steering rack, and destroying that as well.

Plenty of pumps will turn themselves off to prevent damage when it senses no liquid. 

[terrytek]

@RevoltTrain if you plan on getting forza motorsport 7, there's some very good news for you. turns out it's confirmed the honda prelude is gonna be in the game, both the 4th gen and 5th gen, i know you were a huge prelude fanboy, now you can technically get to drive it.

[vetali]

20 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

Plenty of pumps will turn themselves off to prevent damage when it senses no liquid. 

Yeah thats not gonna happen with a power steering pump. 

[byalexandr]

There we go, mod list complete.

 

 

Stage 2+ power, 18 psi tapering to 17 at 6700RPM. Should yield 320 ish to the crank, 380 torque at the crank, 300 to the wheels with 320 torque at the wheels, I'm sort of making a guess at it based on other Stage 2 tunes. Those 255s and upgraded rear motor mount should help the car launch a lot harder.

 

Just a reminder that this is going to take a long ass time for me to get done, I'm going off to school and most of my money will be going to paying off the car as well as insurance and stuff.

 

I'm almost certain I will trade the car in for a brand new STI before I manage to get it all done, probably in two to three years once my credit it built up enough and I have a decent job or internship.

[vetali]

5 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

There we go, mod list complete.

 

If you want a corksport RMM I still have mine.

[RevoltTrain]

1 hour ago, terrytek said:

@RevoltTrain if you plan on getting forza motorsport 7, there's some very good news for you. turns out it's confirmed the honda prelude is gonna be in the game, both the 4th gen and 5th gen, i know you were a huge prelude fanboy, now you can technically get to drive it.

Prelude drift car here I come hell yes

35 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

There we go, mod list complete.

 

 

Stage 2+ power, 18 psi tapering to 17 at 6700RPM. Should yield 320 ish to the crank, 380 torque at the crank, 300 to the wheels with 320 torque at the wheels, I'm sort of making a guess at it based on other Stage 2 tunes. Those 255s and upgraded rear motor mount should help the car launch a lot harder.

 

Just a reminder that this is going to take a long ass time for me to get done, I'm going off to school and most of my money will be going to paying off the car as well as insurance and stuff.

 

I'm almost certain I will trade the car in for a brand new STI before I manage to get it all done, probably in two to three years once my credit it built up enough and I have a decent job or internship.

EEEEEEEEEEEEEEE 

[terrytek]

51 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

There we go, mod list complete.

 

 

Stage 2+ power, 18 psi tapering to 17 at 6700RPM. Should yield 320 ish to the crank, 380 torque at the crank, 300 to the wheels with 320 torque at the wheels, I'm sort of making a guess at it based on other Stage 2 tunes. Those 255s and upgraded rear motor mount should help the car launch a lot harder.

 

Just a reminder that this is going to take a long ass time for me to get done, I'm going off to school and most of my money will be going to paying off the car as well as insurance and stuff.

 

I'm almost certain I will trade the car in for a brand new STI before I manage to get it all done, probably in two to three years once my credit it built up enough and I have a decent job or internship.

i see you wanna go with a turboback now. i assume texas doesn't do emissions testing?

 

and is it possible to keep the mazdaspeed 3 and get an sti as well? because i'd be deeply saddened to see you let go of the ms3 for a new car.