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Everything posted by byalexandr

  1. Figured I'd update the thread from my new PC. I went with the $289.99 Optiplex 7010 with an i7-3770, 16GB of RAM, and a 512GB SSD. I also bought a Gigabyte GTX 1650 (low profile) for $159.99, and I have to say it's a pretty good little card. It plays Smite great lol, currently installing more games now that I have access to my Steam library again. It gets a little loud when gaming, but I haven't removed the drive cage yet which apparently frees up a lot of airflow. The low profile card fits like a glove, with pretty close clearance to the PSU and the 24-pin power cable.
  2. This one looks pretty good: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-SFF-Intel-Core-i7-3-40GHz-16GB-New-256GB-SSD-Win-10-Pro/174350040680?hash=item2898127e68:g:Hw4AAOSw2xBfDx5d Has a 3rd gen i7-3770 and 16GB of RAM along with a 256GB SSD. All I would need to buy is the 1650 at that point, 256 is plenty for Windows 10 and a few programs and one or two games I think. If not SSDs are cheap and I can add another one. Not really looking to upgrade this PC for at least a couple years, hence why I'm spending so little. I just need a solid desktop for now that I
  3. Gotcha. Does Dell make the Optiplex with those 3rd gen i7s?
  4. Any CAD that I will be doing is just for designing custom car parts like small brackets or panels that would be laser cut, nothing too intensive. Most use for this PC would just be browsing the web, handling accounts and invoices in Quickbooks and Excel, and the occasional game. I'm keeping the PC in my bedroom and leaving the Xbox in the living room so most of my gaming is on the Xbox anyways.
  5. I was thinking something along these lines: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Optiplex-7010-SFF-Slim-Desktop-I5-3470-3-2GHz-16GB-3TB-DVD-RW-WIN-10-PRO/223776263367?hash=item341a1accc7:g:-bcAAOSwcrJdzy5b I know the i5-3470 is a really old processor but I don't think it'll be a bottleneck to a GTX 1650. The one in the link also has 16GB already and a 3TB HDD so I can just add a small 500GB SSD and the GPU to make a decent system.
  6. Budget (including currency): As little as possible Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Intuit Quickbooks, Chrome, light CAD (Inventor, Fusion 360), Photoshop, Excel, occasional gaming (PUBG, Rainbow Six Siege, Smite, Minecraft). Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): To save some money, I'd like to purchase a used Dell, HP, Lenovo, etc. slim desktop tower and just upgrade the GPU to a half
  7. Not that I post that often anymore but is Godlygamer still a mod? I had some beef with him a few years ago XD
  8. Yep that's the post. Still a lot to do (and buy) which is why I ended up doing the head gasket on the old motor. Runs great but now I'm running into a clutch or transmission issue, replacing the clutch slave did nothing and replacing the transmission oil made it shift a lot smoother but it still doesn't let me go into gear at first startup which is super odd.
  9. Little later than that. I posted it on August 6 if that helps, you'll see the wrinkle red valve cover.
  10. Some photos I took during the process of my less than $100 head gasket change. $43 head set from work and $45 for the machine shop to throw the head on the belt sander, several hours of work and cleaning and a lot of cursing. This was the least I could do for this poor engine; I honestly don't care about it that much because I have a $4,000 long block waiting to go in, but I'm really surprised it was still running as well as it was for having a blown head gasket for over a year. I only did the head gasket as it was absolutely necessary if I wanted to get ANY more miles out of this thing while
  11. With MLS head gaskets (which our cars come with) it's basically standard practice anyway to resurface the head if a new head gasket is required. MLS is very sensitive to even minor .0015" warpage, where as an organic head gasket would still seal at .003" warpage. But yeah the car shut off by itself from overheating the one time it did. I've seen it come close a couple times sitting in the drive thru line but I always shut the car off if that happens. The one time it did overheat I was so close to my shop that I kept pushing it, when I should've towed it and not have to deal with th
  12. Well unfortunately the motor currently in the Miata is not doing so hot, blew the head gasket (in that case it is doing hot, pun intended). I'm pretty sure it blew when I first got the car, one of the little bypass hoses split open and leaked all the coolant out before I even got home, only time it's ever overheated. Fixed the leaks and have been driving it for almost a year, but it's starting to get pretty bad, spark plugs are getting fouled up, losing oil and coolant; if it wasn't running on borrowed time before it certainly is now. Luckily I got a head set and timing belt for le
  13. Nah, weight reduction bro. In all seriousness if I'm moving it's bearable. Even with the windows up, I don't have a blower motor so the vent in the wiper cowl lets in fresh air. It's the stop lights that suck, mainly because it's hot but also because I hate everyone around me for not moving.
  14. It sucks, not gonna lie. But I learned to just embrace the sweat, it's gonna happen. People pay for saunas when I get it for free every time I drive the car XD
  15. It's at a quarter million miles and I plan to send it to at least half a million.
  16. Huge update on the 400HP built BP! I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up! Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuni
  17. Not if you gut 200+ lbs out of the car! Removing the interior, gutting the dash, removing sound deadening, trunk liner, spare tire, jack, emissions equipment, removing the passenger seat and replacing the driver seat with a 9lb Ultra Shield, depowering the steering rack and removing AC, removing shipping tow hooks, removing soft top and frame and replacing with a hardtop, etc. The car not only gained power back from dropping the AC and PS, but with all the weight gone there is quite a noticeable difference in how the car picks up. 80-100+ still accelerates like a dog but up to 80 it shaved sev
  18. The best way to learn, for me anyways, is hands on. Assemble your own PC, go to Micro Center and just look at parts, cable manage, think of a problem you want to solve and come up with a way to solve it, without the help of others. The more you touch components the more you'll learn about them. Watching someone else do it is a great way to learn, but nothing comes close to doing it yourself, especially learning from your mistakes.
  19. Not one single part, but collectively I have spent $3,600 building my forged engine for my turbo Miata in the past couple months. The most expensive single part for it was the harmonic damper, surprisingly, at $526. A close second is the piston set at $474. Still another $12,200 to go before it makes 400hp!
  20. General car stuff and reviews: -Car Throttle -Motor Trend (especially Roadkill when it was still on YouTube) -Savage Geese -Doug DeMuro -1320 Video -TRC -Hoonigan (and associated channels) -MightyCarMods -19Bozzy92 -ItalianSuperCarVideo -NM2255 -MattyB727 -TheSmokingTire More personal/vlog style: -Adam LZ -Taylor Ray -TJ Hunt -BodeVision (he does auto paint) -MotionAutoTV -BoostedBoiz -Cleetus McFarland -Obsessed Garage (detailing and garage stuff) -Lowcals
  21. This one doesn't have a defroster which is completely fine by me, makes tint a lot easier to put on and remove.
  22. Finally got a hardtop! Dramatically changes the look of the car OEM hardtop with glass window and Jass Performance mounting brackets, a steal at $800
  23. So I've been doing the math, this little Miata of mine is going to cost me roughly $15,000 for all the power train upgrades. A high price to pay to make 400WHP but hopefully the reliability that comes with all that will actually let me get a decent service life out of the thing. So far I have the built long block finished, about $4K out of the total $15K Still so much more to buy and put together but it's coming along. I think I'm going to get another car to daily and make this one a dedicated track toy, no A/C (or interior for that matter) is killer during the Texas summer. I star