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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

29 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

You can probably go trough the manual for the car and find out if there are any buttons for some extra features the car doesn't have.
Also it is possible that there are some buttons that are always meant to be blank.

Yeah, that's a good idea. I should have thought of that lol. I guess I'll probably go find a manual online.

 

Still would be nice if someone knows though and has a picture of it filled up as much as possible.

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Does anybody know how I can get rid of an airbag light that won't go away? I disconnected the wiring for the driver's seat occupancy sensor this morning while taking the seat out and that light turned on once I started the car again. Currently trying to see if there's a fuse for it that may have blown.

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6 minutes ago, dcgreen2k said:

Does anybody know how I can get rid of an airbag light that won't go away? I disconnected the wiring for the driver's seat occupancy sensor this morning while taking the seat out and that light turned on once I started the car again. Currently trying to see if there's a fuse for it that may have blown.

Do you have a scanner? It might just be a stored code that you an clear and be on your way.

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1 minute ago, Kawaii Koneko said:

Do you have a scanner? It might just be a stored code that you an clear and be on your way.

I did use a scanner, but it didn't find anything. The light is on all the time and isn't blinking to give a code either.

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2 hours ago, dcgreen2k said:

Does anybody know how I can get rid of an airbag light that won't go away? I disconnected the wiring for the driver's seat occupancy sensor this morning while taking the seat out and that light turned on once I started the car again. Currently trying to see if there's a fuse for it that may have blown.

my miata had an airbag light. I got it to go away once when fooling with the connectors the drivers side airbag, but then it came back one day. 

When the heater core leaked on me, and the dash had to come out. When we put it all back together there was no more airbag light. That was like a year and a half ago lol

So the solution is easy: simply remove EVERYTHING from the vehicle and put it back in. 

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3 hours ago, dcgreen2k said:

I did use a scanner, but it didn't find anything. The light is on all the time and isn't blinking to give a code either.

Some scanners wont read SRS very well. Try clearing the codes anyway. If you have a stored, inactive code it will still set a SRS light.

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4 hours ago, vetali said:

Some scanners wont read SRS very well. Try clearing the codes anyway. If you have a stored, inactive code it will still set a SRS light.

This

You need a scanner that does SRS codes

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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8 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

snip

 

8 hours ago, vetali said:

snip

Thanks for the advice, turns out there was a broken contact on the connector for the seat position sensor.

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1 hour ago, dcgreen2k said:

 

Thanks for the advice, turns out there was a broken contact on the connector for the seat position sensor.

Mine was more of a joke than advice but your welcome :) 

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37 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Mine was more of a joke than advice but your welcome :) 

To be fair, tearing everything down and going through every electrical connection is exactly what I did when my old car had a problem with the reverse lights not turning on. That issue alone took two months of (occasional) work, with me going up and down the car trying various fixes for a broken part I couldn't find. It's also the reason I hate working with the electrical systems on cars, 95% of the time I have no clue where to look! 

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22 hours ago, dcgreen2k said:

Does anybody know how I can get rid of an airbag light that won't go away? I disconnected the wiring for the driver's seat occupancy sensor this morning while taking the seat out and that light turned on once I started the car again. Currently trying to see if there's a fuse for it that may have blown.

Did you put the seat back in? You didn't say you did so I'm going to assume the light is on because the seat is still out of the car.

 

Late to the party, see you got it fixed.

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hey guys, i noticed that malone tuning is in the same road as LTT... they specialise in turning/modding firmware of your cars ECU (specifically euro cars) i have a stage 2 tune from these guys. they can also probably get into all the neat things you can do with an ODB2 port. i know in my car, i have an ODB2 to USB cable, and i have been able to turn on features reserved for higher trim levels and even fancier brands such as an Audi. An example of this is in my car (a 2012 tdi jetta (comfort trim level)) i was able to enable hill assist braking, torque steer compensation, rolling up and down windows with my key fob while the car is off or on, tear drop mode for the wipers. I also have my transmission it's self firmware flashed to allow for higher torque. this is in a 2012 car, imagine the tech inside a more modern car. It is both tech related and car related, which I know linus has said in a few videos he wanted to get into more. I have tried suggesting this in the youtube comments and on twitter but i think it just gets drowned out in all the other noise comments, is  their a proper channel to recommend something like this?

The particular thing that lead to this post with this segment here in tech linked, a video done on this will show exactly how BMWs microtransaction garbage is absolute BS. It is more BS then even the computing industry as car manufactures do not want to make extra parts, which is why you can enable so many extra things in cars if you know what you are doing and the hardware is there. I know in my car at least, the computer for it, and the transmission, is the same computer in higher trim levels and what not, its just features are turned off for higher trim levels and its literally a check in the box and a cable for you to turn them on. 


if you have a euro car and want to over clock it, i suggest checking out malone https://malonetuning.com/ thats kind of an ad but the tune they did for my car is amazing, i get better fuel economy to.
image.thumb.png.0fbf1f9588f114055238bf29eddabe48.png
 

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4 hours ago, Dataanti said:

I also have my transmission it's self firmware flashed to allow for higher torque.

That's not really how it works. You can remove the software torque limits in particular gears, but changing either engine or gearbox mapping doesn't make the physical components within it stronger. 

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8 hours ago, HM-2 said:

That's not really how it works. You can remove the software torque limits in particular gears, but changing either engine or gearbox mapping doesn't make the physical components within it stronger. 

this is correct however it just happens to be that the DSG transmission VW uses are far more sturdy then what the limits allow. I know in my car at least, it increases torque limit, changes shift points so your car shifts up earlier and down shifts later so it makes more efficient use of the RPM power band in the TDI. also allows for smoother shifting over all when you have the ECU tuned, and as a bonus, it adds what gear you are in to the display while in drive or sport mode, without the tune, for some reason this is only shown while in manual mode. this is not applicable to any standard transmission however, only for automatic.

https://www.tunemyeuro.com/malone-tuning-dsg-tune-golf-jetta-new-beetle-passat/ if you scroll down on this page and see the quote from malones site (before they changed it all up (i can find it on their site anymore)) it explains in better detail then what i can.

I am at a stage 2 which is fine with stock parts but i do plan to move to a stage 4 at some point, it will require a bigger turbo, and it will push stock fuel pump to the limits, so ill get a better fuel pump as well, might do that first when my timing belt is due, which will be soon.

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18 minutes ago, Dataanti said:

this is correct however it just happens to be that the DSG transmission VW uses are far more sturdy then what the limits allow. 

This is pretty common, done for longevity reasons. The ZF8 in my BMW has a nominal maximum torque rating of 500NM (about 370 lb ft) but plenty of people run stage 2/2+ cars with 600+ (~450 lb ft) quite happily. 

 

18 minutes ago, Dataanti said:

also allows for smoother shifting over all when you have the ECU tuned

It's been a while since I was active in VW circles so things might have changed, but my understanding is that this is accomplished by increasing the clutch pressure to prevent chatter/slip as the standard box software is only calibrated to deal with a lower level of torque output. It doesn't increase the torque limit of the gearbox per se but improves it's ability to deal smoothly with increased torque above standard- at the cost of shortening the lives of the clutch packs.

 

You'll still end up with physical slip if you push the torque output high enough (5-600 lb ft from memory depending on whether it's a dry clutch or wet clutch box) but you could always run uprated clutch packs if you were pushing that hard. 

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10 minutes ago, HM-2 said:

This is pretty common, done for longevity reasons. The ZF8 in my BMW has a nominal maximum torque rating of 500NM (about 370 lb ft) but plenty of people run stage 2/2+ cars with 600+ (~450 lb ft) quite happily. 

 

It's been a while since I was active in VW circles so things might have changed, but my understanding is that this is accomplished by increasing the clutch pressure to prevent chatter/slip as the standard box software is only calibrated to deal with a lower level of torque output. It doesn't increase the torque limit of the gearbox per se but improves it's ability to deal smoothly with increased torque above standard- at the cost of shortening the lives of the clutch packs.

 

You'll still end up with physical slip if you push the torque output high enough (5-600 lb ft from memory depending on whether it's a dry clutch or wet clutch box) but you could always run uprated clutch packs if you were pushing that hard. 

i believe you are correct, the clutch pressure is slightly increased, but the torque limit is raised also to match the VW TDI cup cars, which from what i have been able to tell have the same transmission as the normal cars. before i got the stage 2 tune, I did a little bit of research about the transmission tune because I was worried about increased wear and tear, and although it probably is increased, i think consensus is its negligible. 

 

as for a clutch upgrade, i do not think thats necessary for my car, even at a stage 4 tune, its only gonna be about 350 lb of torque, it is no BMW :P. I think most DSGs are wet clutch, i think only the newer 7 speed DSG coming out in the past couple of years are dry. I know my clutch for sure is wet.

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5 minutes ago, Dataanti said:

as for a clutch upgrade, i do not think thats necessary for my car, even at a stage 4 tune, its only gonna be about 350 lb of torque, it is no BMW :P

Ah I must have misunderstood, thought you had a TDI from your earlier comments. Yeah even a Stage 3 EA113 or EA888 should be under 400 lb ft.

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3 minutes ago, HM-2 said:

Ah I must have misunderstood, thought you had a TDI from your earlier comments. Yeah even a Stage 3 EA113 or EA888 should be under 400 lb ft.

i do, my car is a 2012 TDI jetta

does BMW have a TDI as well? XD I know they have diesel but i figured it would have a different badge

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21 minutes ago, Dataanti said:

i do, my car is a 2012 TDI jetta

I'd have thought you would be liable to be pushing 500 lb ft plus if you moved on from stage 2 and started looking at uprated turbos. That's definitely getting towards clutch pack cooking territory especially if you track at all...

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39 minutes ago, HM-2 said:

I'd have thought you would be liable to be pushing 500 lb ft plus if you moved on from stage 2 and started looking at uprated turbos. That's definitely getting towards clutch pack cooking territory especially if you track at all...

nah, i wish the gains where that good. I have seen VW TDIs get way way more but at that point you are pretty much rebuilding the engine. I am also trying to keep it street legal and retain all the emission stuff. I do not track, just street driving.

what im looking to upgrade to is this https://malonetuning.com/products/item/2-0l-cr-16v-tdi-round-port-stage-4-kit but with a cp3 fuel pump

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That's pretty mild as far as TDI hybrid turbos go actually, shouldn't be too much of an issue.  I know Darkside's GTD2872VRK kit is good for circa 400bhp and 650 lb ft and their demo car runs over 500bhp with nitrous from a 2.0TDi. 

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Proof that 3-cylinder engines are the best...

 

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