Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[vf1000ride]

On 12/6/2020 at 12:39 PM, bcredeur97 said:

I won a season for my class at my local group with my Miata. Haven’t done an event in like 2 years tho lol 

 

thought I was going to this year but covid happened. Maybe next year I’ll do a couple. I kinda got out of being serious about it, and just will do it for fun. Just not something I can be fully devoted to anymore lol. But it’s certainly a lot of fun, especially if your group has a big space. 
 

but yeah it was always those dang slaloms, can never get them perfect lol. 

I had a good time and placed 16th out of 19 in RWD stock,  103 out of 111 total.  Not bad for a 30 year old car with a bad camshaft that ended up in a full engine rebuild and a passenger side upper a-arm bushing that failed at the event and was falling apart.  One of these days I will have to try autocross again now that I have gone through the mechanical's and fixed things up.  Sad to say I haven't had it on the dragstrip yet either.  I'm such a terrible car guy. 

[iDeFecZx]

3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

So, we end up putting money down for a car. Not a truck. But it's an unusual car.

  Reveal hidden contents

This, but 1998 White, Manual, Stock Wheels, 28" Tires. I'll get photos when we officially pick it up. 

 

Turnms out, thee's a cult following for these. Honestly now, the biggest challenge will be teaching the GF to drive stick so she can drive her mixed personality car

You're right, that is um "unusual"

[TVwazhere]

5 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

You're right, that is um "unusual"

Apparently they're very popular in the Wester Continental US for Off roading and Dune.... buggying? Idk what that would be called, but as I was told by the previous owner, "people like these cars for their good weight distribution" and it's not the only example either. 

[Bitter]

Oh Chrysler....and aftermarket parts.

 

13 Charger in the shop with intermittent low brake pedal that pumps up, replaced the master cylinder, brakes all good, but the brake light is now on. Fluid is full. BCM data says the brake fluid level is showing either not connected, normal, or low as the connector is wiggled. It's damn tight to unplug and plug in too so it's a real dick to unplug and plug in. Closer look, terminals are corroded, order terminal kit and have customer come back.

Kit comes in, customer comes back, change connector and terminals. Still super hard to plug in disconnect, but now I've got a status of just always low fluid in BCM data. I can see voltage change when the float is pushed down and goes back up so the circuit is working and the BCM is working. Figure the part is defective, order a replacement from our supplier, plug in the new master cylinder (with reservoir and sensor) and flip it upside down. Same incorrect voltage and same warning light on. Description and operation is unhelpful, just says that the switch is a magnetic reed, float floats, light comes on for reasons, thanks a bunch for nothing.

Google it. Everyone just has low brake fluid or they accidentally kicked the parking brake on. Finally fine one rando who replaced a bad master with an aftermarket one and had the brake light on. They went through all same hoops we've been through but they still had the old part (ours went back for core weeks ago), they compared the new sensor and original sensor and found that the Mopar part has a 10K ohm resistor when the reed switch is open (fluid full), the magnet falls and the switch closes, the resistance goes to closed circuit (.1ohm roughly, fluid empty), or the circuit is open (disconnected). That's how they have 3 states on the circuit for disconnected, full, and low. Use the gauge tester to dial in 10,000 ohms and connect to the circuit and voila in data we see a reading of full fluid and the light is off the dash.

Call the supplier, tell them all their parts are wrong. Call local Dodge dealer, get correct part. Get the old switch out of the new aftermarket master reservoir, go to pop the new one in and doink doink doink it won't slide in. The locking tab is keyed off center on the OE part, it's centered on the aftermarket. Shave the locking tab down to a nub and now it's friction fit, plugs in so so easily, and the light is FINALLY off.

 

 

Why couldn't they have a better description of the circuit operation in service data? What a pain in the ass.

[BiG StroOnZ]

Very cool:

 

[3 Lions]

 

 

[airborne spoon]

So i had an experience over the weekend to drive a Maserati for the first time for 2 days and i gotta say i am not a fan. Figured this was a good place to state my findings/review of the car in case any of yall may be in the market. If not F* it yall can remove my post.

 

Given the car i drove was a Levante and has a MSRP of $77k i was always under the impression they were super expensive, but i guess they sell cheap'ish stuff like anyone else does. It says that it's supposed to have 590 hp, but even in sport mode the damn thing it didn't feel very quick, but with an 8 speed automatic all the damn shifting prob slowed it down.

I used to have a 06 mustang GT manual transmission that i supercharged and had 425hp at the wheel and it definitely felt faster in the seat of the pants.

Maybe i'm just spoiled because my current car doesn't have a transmission and the 0-60 is 3 seconds, and after 4 years of driving that i just can't go back to a normal car.

Also i was underwhelmed by the interior it was very uncomfortable and like anti-user friendly if that's the right phrase. The controls were just difficult to navigate and there seemed like extra steps were needed when something could've been streamlined if they gave a shit in the design and the GPS felt circa 2013 bottom shelf garmin, even though the car was a 2020 model.

Anyway i gave it back and got my car back out of service, so now it's gonna be back to working on my Harley between the warm days of riding during this unusually warm winter.

[vetali]

23 hours ago, Bitter said:

Oh Chrysler....and aftermarket parts.

 

13 Charger in the shop with intermittent low brake pedal that pumps up, replaced the master cylinder, brakes all good, but the brake light is now on. Fluid is full. BCM data says the brake fluid level is showing either not connected, normal, or low as the connector is wiggled. It's damn tight to unplug and plug in too so it's a real dick to unplug and plug in. Closer look, terminals are corroded, order terminal kit and have customer come back.

Kit comes in, customer comes back, change connector and terminals. Still super hard to plug in disconnect, but now I've got a status of just always low fluid in BCM data. I can see voltage change when the float is pushed down and goes back up so the circuit is working and the BCM is working. Figure the part is defective, order a replacement from our supplier, plug in the new master cylinder (with reservoir and sensor) and flip it upside down. Same incorrect voltage and same warning light on. Description and operation is unhelpful, just says that the switch is a magnetic reed, float floats, light comes on for reasons, thanks a bunch for nothing.

Google it. Everyone just has low brake fluid or they accidentally kicked the parking brake on. Finally fine one rando who replaced a bad master with an aftermarket one and had the brake light on. They went through all same hoops we've been through but they still had the old part (ours went back for core weeks ago), they compared the new sensor and original sensor and found that the Mopar part has a 10K ohm resistor when the reed switch is open (fluid full), the magnet falls and the switch closes, the resistance goes to closed circuit (.1ohm roughly, fluid empty), or the circuit is open (disconnected). That's how they have 3 states on the circuit for disconnected, full, and low. Use the gauge tester to dial in 10,000 ohms and connect to the circuit and voila in data we see a reading of full fluid and the light is off the dash.

Call the supplier, tell them all their parts are wrong. Call local Dodge dealer, get correct part. Get the old switch out of the new aftermarket master reservoir, go to pop the new one in and doink doink doink it won't slide in. The locking tab is keyed off center on the OE part, it's centered on the aftermarket. Shave the locking tab down to a nub and now it's friction fit, plugs in so so easily, and the light is FINALLY off.

 

 

Why couldn't they have a better description of the circuit operation in service data? What a pain in the ass.

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

[chaozbandit]

Just popping in to support a local boy

 

 

[Bitter]

21 hours ago, vetali said:

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

Ouch.

[atxcyclist]

21 hours ago, vetali said:

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

What in the hell, isn't the 2AZ incredibly common? Like every 4-cyl Camry made for 10 years had one?

[vetali]

33 minutes ago, atxcyclist said:

What in the hell, isn't the 2AZ incredibly common? Like every 4-cyl Camry made for 10 years had one?

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

 

Customer picked it up today. I guess we are gonna see if it has any drivability issues with the wrong phaser in, but it drove fine for me.

[BiG StroOnZ]

 

[chaozbandit]

 

[bcredeur97]

15 hours ago, vetali said:

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

 

Customer picked it up today. I guess we are gonna see if it has any drivability issues with the wrong phaser in, but it drove fine for me.

sounds like it'll be fine. Funny though. 

Customer should of fessed up earlier though, would of been a bit easier on you. 

[GDRRiley]

On 12/9/2020 at 6:58 PM, vetali said:

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

the K Type till 2013 was used in very little in the US mostly being used in Japan or higher end trims, the J type is more common than it.

 

my dads finally getting tired of trying to find shops to work on his Malibu, maybe he will finally learn to do some more of the work on it. We already got almost anything he could need tools wise. Just needs to take lots of pictures otherwise I'll be sitting there for hours figuring out how to put things back together.

 

[vetali]

8 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

the K Type till 2013 was used in very little in the US mostly being used in Japan or higher end trims, the J type is more common than it.

 

my dads finally getting tired of trying to find shops to work on his Malibu, maybe he will finally learn to do some more of the work on it. We already got almost anything he could need tools wise. Just needs to take lots of pictures otherwise I'll be sitting there for hours figuring out how to put things back together.

 

Not sure if you are using the phrase "very little" right. K24s make up the majority of honda engines in the 2000s to mid 2010s. The CRV is hondas most popular vehicle since the 2nd gen and generally sold 1.5-2x more than the pilots. Add in the elements and accords and its not even close.

 

[GDRRiley]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

Not sure if you are using the phrase "very little" right. K24s make up the majority of honda engines in the 2000s to mid 2010s. The CRV is hondas most popular vehicle since the 2nd gen and generally sold 1.5-2x more than the pilots. Add in the elements and accords and its not even close.

 

you do realize right that about half the accords were J type? which also went into odysseys and almost all acura cars.

comparing which engine went in more cars is going to be spreadsheet work not 1 graph

[Bitter]

I miss the old B20 (?) In the old old CR-V. Felt super peppy!

[vetali]

8 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

you do realize right that about half the accords were J type? which also went into odysseys and almost all acura cars.

comparing which engine went in more cars is going to be spreadsheet work not 1 graph

Not remotely 50%. Acura cars also had K series engines... I am really not sure what straws you are trying to grasp. I work as a tech at a Honda dealer... I know what I see lmao. If you wana spreadsheet it to prove a point then be my guest. Until then stop pulling numbers out of thin air to prove your baseless statement.

 

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

I miss the old B20 (?) In the old old CR-V. Felt super peppy!

B20. Yep. Not a huge fan of them. Almost bought a 5 speed one for my second car though. Went with the mazda 3 instead.

[Eastman51]

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

[Bananasplit_00]

So i figured out how all of the CB450 was wired a few days ago, its barely got any wires in it so it wasnt all that hard.

 

Found a few odd things:

The generators negative isn't connected to anything, i have no idea how this isnt some sort of problem tbh

The headlight is controlled by the indicator switch??? just why???

 

Got my new indicators, signal generator, speedo cable and grips yesterday but yesterday i also passed out and have a concussion so any work on the CB is probably not until after i get back home from Christmas. Still need something to quiet the bike down, either some DB killer insert or a slip-on, exhaust is a strange 39mm ID so DB-killers are hard to find. Slip-ons are expensive too so idk what ill end up doing right now but i have a pretty solid guess that it wont be passing any inspections with these straight pipes lmao

[Bitter]

10 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

[Eastman51]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

Thanks for the airbox tip. I already joined the forums there, and they've been helpful. More than I can say for the Prius forums and RX-7 forums....

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Forgot to post this here.  Had my Focus RS at the dragstrip recently.  Sadly the video I do have doesn't have ET because the GT350 had "no clocks" on the back window.

 

But it ran a 13.4 @ 105mph.

 

Car is bone stock, full weight, 3675lbs with me in it at the line.

 

This is right about where it should run in stock trim so I'm happy enough with the result.