Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Bitter]

21 hours ago, vetali said:

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

Ouch.

[atxcyclist]

21 hours ago, vetali said:

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

What in the hell, isn't the 2AZ incredibly common? Like every 4-cyl Camry made for 10 years had one?

[vetali]

33 minutes ago, atxcyclist said:

What in the hell, isn't the 2AZ incredibly common? Like every 4-cyl Camry made for 10 years had one?

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

 

Customer picked it up today. I guess we are gonna see if it has any drivability issues with the wrong phaser in, but it drove fine for me.

[BiG StroOnZ]

 

[chaozbandit]

 

[bcredeur97]

15 hours ago, vetali said:

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

 

Customer picked it up today. I guess we are gonna see if it has any drivability issues with the wrong phaser in, but it drove fine for me.

sounds like it'll be fine. Funny though. 

Customer should of fessed up earlier though, would of been a bit easier on you. 

[GDRRiley]

On 12/9/2020 at 6:58 PM, vetali said:

No idea but sounds right. I assume its like the k24 for Hondas where it was used in everything, just slightly different designs in some. In NA I think the only thing that used the 1AZ was the early rav4.

the K Type till 2013 was used in very little in the US mostly being used in Japan or higher end trims, the J type is more common than it.

 

my dads finally getting tired of trying to find shops to work on his Malibu, maybe he will finally learn to do some more of the work on it. We already got almost anything he could need tools wise. Just needs to take lots of pictures otherwise I'll be sitting there for hours figuring out how to put things back together.

 

[vetali]

8 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

the K Type till 2013 was used in very little in the US mostly being used in Japan or higher end trims, the J type is more common than it.

 

my dads finally getting tired of trying to find shops to work on his Malibu, maybe he will finally learn to do some more of the work on it. We already got almost anything he could need tools wise. Just needs to take lots of pictures otherwise I'll be sitting there for hours figuring out how to put things back together.

 

Not sure if you are using the phrase "very little" right. K24s make up the majority of honda engines in the 2000s to mid 2010s. The CRV is hondas most popular vehicle since the 2nd gen and generally sold 1.5-2x more than the pilots. Add in the elements and accords and its not even close.

 

[GDRRiley]

2 hours ago, vetali said:

Not sure if you are using the phrase "very little" right. K24s make up the majority of honda engines in the 2000s to mid 2010s. The CRV is hondas most popular vehicle since the 2nd gen and generally sold 1.5-2x more than the pilots. Add in the elements and accords and its not even close.

 

you do realize right that about half the accords were J type? which also went into odysseys and almost all acura cars.

comparing which engine went in more cars is going to be spreadsheet work not 1 graph

[Bitter]

I miss the old B20 (?) In the old old CR-V. Felt super peppy!

[vetali]

8 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

you do realize right that about half the accords were J type? which also went into odysseys and almost all acura cars.

comparing which engine went in more cars is going to be spreadsheet work not 1 graph

Not remotely 50%. Acura cars also had K series engines... I am really not sure what straws you are trying to grasp. I work as a tech at a Honda dealer... I know what I see lmao. If you wana spreadsheet it to prove a point then be my guest. Until then stop pulling numbers out of thin air to prove your baseless statement.

 

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

I miss the old B20 (?) In the old old CR-V. Felt super peppy!

B20. Yep. Not a huge fan of them. Almost bought a 5 speed one for my second car though. Went with the mazda 3 instead.

[Eastman51]

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

[Bananasplit_00]

So i figured out how all of the CB450 was wired a few days ago, its barely got any wires in it so it wasnt all that hard.

 

Found a few odd things:

The generators negative isn't connected to anything, i have no idea how this isnt some sort of problem tbh

The headlight is controlled by the indicator switch??? just why???

 

Got my new indicators, signal generator, speedo cable and grips yesterday but yesterday i also passed out and have a concussion so any work on the CB is probably not until after i get back home from Christmas. Still need something to quiet the bike down, either some DB killer insert or a slip-on, exhaust is a strange 39mm ID so DB-killers are hard to find. Slip-ons are expensive too so idk what ill end up doing right now but i have a pretty solid guess that it wont be passing any inspections with these straight pipes lmao

[Bitter]

10 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

[Eastman51]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/official-7th-gen-chat-thread.1154465/page-129#post-14348341

Please join there, there's a lot of really knowledgeable people. I used to have a 93 Prizm (Corolla clone) with a 7A-FE and with the right bits and adjustments they're fairly peppy for their age.  I'll give you a quick freebie, pull the air snorkel that goes from behind the driver side headlight to the air box, just leave the larger open hole in the bottom of the airbox. It'll help reduce the choke out at higher RPM substantially. Yours being a 95 probably has a non-adjustable distributor which is a real bummer, a few extra degrees of timing makes a big difference.

Thanks for the airbox tip. I already joined the forums there, and they've been helpful. More than I can say for the Prius forums and RX-7 forums....

[Thirdgen89GTA]

Forgot to post this here.  Had my Focus RS at the dragstrip recently.  Sadly the video I do have doesn't have ET because the GT350 had "no clocks" on the back window.

 

But it ran a 13.4 @ 105mph.

 

Car is bone stock, full weight, 3675lbs with me in it at the line.

 

This is right about where it should run in stock trim so I'm happy enough with the result.

 

 

 

[bcredeur97]

20 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Meet the $280 1995 Toyota Corolla DX

I saw it listed on Facebook marketplace and just had to take a look. Poor car was going to get scrapped for what the previous owner assumed was the clutch starting to go out.

 

The actual problem? Someone serviced the car at some point and did not re-mount the charcoal canister and fuel filter properly, so they were clattering around and getting smacked by the shift linkages. 

 

Of course, the car also ended up needing other work too. Driver's side front wheel bearing was starting to go out, causing weird noises when turning right. I also replaced the driver's side CV axle since it was old af, and the passenger side axle has been replaced at some point. Beyond that, I have just cleaned it inside and out, new tires, and caught up most of the maintenance. Last big ticket item is coolant. Then we can start thinking about upgrades and mods.

 

I'm probably going to auto cross this thing. Its cheap, and pretty fun for what it is. However, the stock economy tuned motor is very not performance ready. The power/torque curve is garbage, and you have to short shift to get anything out of it; which I fear might suck in auto cross. It'll be fine at first to learn with, but I was thinking about sticking to my roots and going with a rotary swap; would be great for auto cross since rotaries like being at high rpms and you're always in low gear. But we'll see. I could also get 4AGE heads and make a 7AGE, do some fuel system work and get a standalone. 

Is that a 98/99 with the 1ZZ? 
 

With a manual and good tires it’ll be a good autocross car. I autoX’d my 2002 corolla (with an auto, I had to leave it in 1st and manually slide the shifter up to second and back down it was a mess but it was fun lol) 

 

I was mid pack at the local group after putting new struts (nothing special just stock replacements) and sport comp 2 tires (I got 15 inch steel wheels to do this, stock width) 

 

I had way more fun in that car than I thought I ever would. Kinda sad I don’t have it anymore still lol. I revved the crap out of the engine every single day for 2 years. I had to keep an eye on the oil (the early 1ZZ’s Commonly burn due to too small piston oil return holes and owners who would neglect oil changes). But that was it! 
 

An LSD would also go a long way in that car. But that might be a bit much. If you ever have the transmission out to disassemble it, it’s worth doing.
 

Then someone crashed into me one day and I bought a Miata. Still have that one. Lol

[Eastman51]

21 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Is that a 98/99 with the 1ZZ? 
 

With a manual and good tires it’ll be a good autocross car. I autoX’d my 2002 corolla (with an auto, I had to leave it in 1st and manually slide the shifter up to second and back down it was a mess but it was fun lol) 

 

I was mid pack at the local group after putting new struts (nothing special just stock replacements) and sport comp 2 tires (I got 15 inch steel wheels to do this, stock width) 

 

I had way more fun in that car than I thought I ever would. Kinda sad I don’t have it anymore still lol. I revved the crap out of the engine every single day for 2 years. I had to keep an eye on the oil (the early 1ZZ’s Commonly burn due to too small piston oil return holes and owners who would neglect oil changes). But that was it! 
 

An LSD would also go a long way in that car. But that might be a bit much. If you ever have the transmission out to disassemble it, it’s worth doing.
 

Then someone crashed into me one day and I bought a Miata. Still have that one. Lol

Big F for your 02.

 

This is a 95, as I mentioned in my post

DX trim, so it does have the 1.8L 7A-FE. The 4 speed auto was an option higher on the DX trim, the 5 speed manual was standard equipment for DX models. I expect it'll be solid enough in autox stock, but my plans should get some more performance out of it. 7As are oil burning queens, if its not burning oil its not running  Supposedly its an issue with the rings getting sludged by faulty rings and/or long oil change intervals.

 

There's a high chance I'll be getting a mostly complete, or possibly running, single rotor engine sometime next year. It'd only make about as much power as the 7A does, but the powerband would be way better. I was planning on reusing the stock transmission with some type of bellhousing adapter, and was considering rebuilding it since it'll have around 200k by the time I can do the swap. 

 

My biggest concern is tires though, for sure. There's a pick&pull near here that has a 93 with some really cool looking alloy wheels, however I'm pretty sure they're OEM so tire choice will be extremely limited. The upside is they'd be cheap and look nice. Could probably try to offset a worse tread with a wider tire, depending on how wide a tire I could fit.

[Bitter]

I had 92 Prizm GSi wheels with 195/60R14 tires, it was ok. Go for 15" and you can fit bigger front brakes from I think maybe it was a 5th or 6th gen Celica? Been a while....

 

Also 7AGE is very rarely built, usually cheaper to turbo the 7A or cram in a 3S or 4AGE.

[bcredeur97]

14 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Big F for your 02.

 

This is a 95, as I mentioned in my post

DX trim, so it does have the 1.8L 7A-FE. The 4 speed auto was an option higher on the DX trim, the 5 speed manual was standard equipment for DX models. I expect it'll be solid enough in autox stock, but my plans should get some more performance out of it. 7As are oil burning queens, if its not burning oil its not running  Supposedly its an issue with the rings getting sludged by faulty rings and/or long oil change intervals.

 

There's a high chance I'll be getting a mostly complete, or possibly running, single rotor engine sometime next year. It'd only make about as much power as the 7A does, but the powerband would be way better. I was planning on reusing the stock transmission with some type of bellhousing adapter, and was considering rebuilding it since it'll have around 200k by the time I can do the swap. 

 

My biggest concern is tires though, for sure. There's a pick&pull near here that has a 93 with some really cool looking alloy wheels, however I'm pretty sure they're OEM so tire choice will be extremely limited. The upside is they'd be cheap and look nice. Could probably try to offset a worse tread with a wider tire, depending on how wide a tire I could fit.

I’m sorry I totally missed that you said the year when I read your post yesterday... 

 

rotary swap? That sounds like a crazy project lol. Good luck! 

 

In my experience regarding tires, the tire itself is more important than the width. 15 inch wheels generally have the best variety of sticky tire selection since that’s what people are using on Miatas and stuff, so I’d try to find something there. 

[Bitter]

A shitty tire in wide width is just more shitty tire.

[bcredeur97]

Not done yet just did the rears:

 

prothane bushings + sadfab sleeve bearing kit instead of the stock sleeves (so the center sleeve rotates inside of a metal bearing instead of directly against the polyurethane) + drilled and tapped for grease zerks for easy greasing. 
 

Every poly bushing company should do this I think it’s an amazing idea lol:

 

koni yellows and flyin Miata springs. New shock bushings but reused the spring isolators and boots.

 

Excuse the 10+ years of dirt. Gonna clean everything when I’m done. 
 

ride is actually pretty close to stock, just everything feels tighter in the back. It’s nice, feels new. 

[aDoomGuy]

Wth is going on with BMW these days?

 

 

 

[bcredeur97]

Anyone know grease fittings really well? I’m in need of some low profile ones for a tight clearance spot on the Miata.

 

i think these will work:

 

but I don’t know what adapter you use on your grease gun for these? Do you just stick a needle-type in the middle?.. that doesn’t seem right (edit: maybe it is, it pushes in the ball valve and allows the grease to flow in)

 

also the hole is recessed so I might have to find something else. Really don’t want go cut the subframe if I can avoid it. (also the above might not work since the clearance for the socket + the fitting itself through that hole might not be big enough ) 

[Bitter]

They do work buy you need the adapter for your grease gun to use them, might still not be low enough since that fitting has a long shank on it. How much more rotation do you need there? Is notching not an option?