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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

It sure is. I bought some special Titanium lift bolts for my 2ZZ I've yet to install. Been in my glove box for like 8 years lol! Guy spec'd them to last pretty much forever but also not gouge into the hardened steel rocker shafts.

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7 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Oh. Well I guess I was totally wrong then, sorry. Lol

 

still though. Titanium is neat. 

Yeah super neat. There's a lot of common misconceptions about it being exceptionally hard but the best way of thinking about it is steel strength with little-bit-more-than-aluminium weight. 

 

Absolute nightmare to work with for most people, though, unless you're able to do melting and casting or forging inside a vacuum. Otherwise you introduce all sorts of impurities which can cause things like cracking and eventual failure of stressed parts. Multiple air disasters have been caused by the failure of things like titanium fan disks or blades within engines due to microscopic impurities. That's one of the reasons I'm slightly wary of companies making stuff like titanium studs or bolts for wheel mounting- because you have no oversight of their manufacturing process and therefore don't know how prone they'll be to issues that could result in unplanned disassembly. 

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2 hours ago, XxTHISNAMEISSOCOOLBROxX said:

bruh the slr tho

-snip-

definitely one of the coolest Mercs ever made. Even if it was co-developed with Mclaren.

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7 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Even if it was co-developed with Mclaren.

Wait what's wrong with them?

.

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19 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Wait what's wrong with them?

nothing. it's just not all mercedes' work

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if you learn how to slalom perfectly every time, you could prob do really well in autocross events. 


Lot easier said than done tho

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Talbot Avenger 1er.jpg

 

01.jpg

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17 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

if you learn how to slalom perfectly every time, you could prob do really well in autocross events. 


Lot easier said than done tho

I did an autocross with my Grand National a few years ago after I first purchased it.  Wasn't last but certainly not an ideal vehicle for it.  It brought out a bunch of flaws in the suspension and engine.  I ended up rebuilding both within the following year.

DSC_0459.JPG

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1 hour ago, vf1000ride said:

I did an autocross with my Grand National a few years ago after I first purchased it.  Wasn't last but certainly not an ideal vehicle for it.  It brought out a bunch of flaws in the suspension and engine.  I ended up rebuilding both within the following year.

DSC_0459.JPG

I won a season for my class at my local group with my Miata. Haven’t done an event in like 2 years tho lol 

 

thought I was going to this year but covid happened. Maybe next year I’ll do a couple. I kinda got out of being serious about it, and just will do it for fun. Just not something I can be fully devoted to anymore lol. But it’s certainly a lot of fun, especially if your group has a big space. 
 

but yeah it was always those dang slaloms, can never get them perfect lol. 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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So, we end up putting money down for a car. Not a truck. But it's an unusual car.

Spoiler

NewBeetle.org Forums | New beetle, Vw new beetle, Beetle

This, but 1998 White, Manual, Stock Wheels, 28" Tires. I'll get photos when we officially pick it up. 

 

Turnms out, thee's a cult following for these. Honestly now, the biggest challenge will be teaching the GF to drive stick so she can drive her mixed personality car 😂

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On 12/6/2020 at 12:39 PM, bcredeur97 said:

I won a season for my class at my local group with my Miata. Haven’t done an event in like 2 years tho lol 

 

thought I was going to this year but covid happened. Maybe next year I’ll do a couple. I kinda got out of being serious about it, and just will do it for fun. Just not something I can be fully devoted to anymore lol. But it’s certainly a lot of fun, especially if your group has a big space. 
 

but yeah it was always those dang slaloms, can never get them perfect lol. 

I had a good time and placed 16th out of 19 in RWD stock,  103 out of 111 total.  Not bad for a 30 year old car with a bad camshaft that ended up in a full engine rebuild and a passenger side upper a-arm bushing that failed at the event and was falling apart.  One of these days I will have to try autocross again now that I have gone through the mechanical's and fixed things up.  Sad to say I haven't had it on the dragstrip yet either.  I'm such a terrible car guy.  🤣

IMG_20150715_160305851_HDR.jpg

IMG_20150620_130952450.jpg

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3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

So, we end up putting money down for a car. Not a truck. But it's an unusual car.

  Reveal hidden contents

NewBeetle.org Forums | New beetle, Vw new beetle, Beetle

This, but 1998 White, Manual, Stock Wheels, 28" Tires. I'll get photos when we officially pick it up. 

 

Turnms out, thee's a cult following for these. Honestly now, the biggest challenge will be teaching the GF to drive stick so she can drive her mixed personality car 😂

You're right, that is um "unusual"

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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5 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

You're right, that is um "unusual"

Apparently they're very popular in the Wester Continental US for Off roading and Dune.... buggying? Idk what that would be called, but as I was told by the previous owner, "people like these cars for their good weight distribution" and it's not the only example either. 

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Oh Chrysler....and aftermarket parts.

 

13 Charger in the shop with intermittent low brake pedal that pumps up, replaced the master cylinder, brakes all good, but the brake light is now on. Fluid is full. BCM data says the brake fluid level is showing either not connected, normal, or low as the connector is wiggled. It's damn tight to unplug and plug in too so it's a real dick to unplug and plug in. Closer look, terminals are corroded, order terminal kit and have customer come back.

Kit comes in, customer comes back, change connector and terminals. Still super hard to plug in disconnect, but now I've got a status of just always low fluid in BCM data. I can see voltage change when the float is pushed down and goes back up so the circuit is working and the BCM is working. Figure the part is defective, order a replacement from our supplier, plug in the new master cylinder (with reservoir and sensor) and flip it upside down. Same incorrect voltage and same warning light on. Description and operation is unhelpful, just says that the switch is a magnetic reed, float floats, light comes on for reasons, thanks a bunch for nothing.

Google it. Everyone just has low brake fluid or they accidentally kicked the parking brake on. Finally fine one rando who replaced a bad master with an aftermarket one and had the brake light on. They went through all same hoops we've been through but they still had the old part (ours went back for core weeks ago), they compared the new sensor and original sensor and found that the Mopar part has a 10K ohm resistor when the reed switch is open (fluid full), the magnet falls and the switch closes, the resistance goes to closed circuit (.1ohm roughly, fluid empty), or the circuit is open (disconnected). That's how they have 3 states on the circuit for disconnected, full, and low. Use the gauge tester to dial in 10,000 ohms and connect to the circuit and voila in data we see a reading of full fluid and the light is off the dash.

Call the supplier, tell them all their parts are wrong. Call local Dodge dealer, get correct part. Get the old switch out of the new aftermarket master reservoir, go to pop the new one in and doink doink doink it won't slide in. The locking tab is keyed off center on the OE part, it's centered on the aftermarket. Shave the locking tab down to a nub and now it's friction fit, plugs in so so easily, and the light is FINALLY off.

 

 

Why couldn't they have a better description of the circuit operation in service data? What a pain in the ass.

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So i had an experience over the weekend to drive a Maserati for the first time for 2 days and i gotta say i am not a fan. Figured this was a good place to state my findings/review of the car in case any of yall may be in the market. If not F* it yall can remove my post.

 

Given the car i drove was a Levante and has a MSRP of $77k i was always under the impression they were super expensive, but i guess they sell cheap'ish stuff like anyone else does. It says that it's supposed to have 590 hp, but even in sport mode the damn thing it didn't feel very quick, but with an 8 speed automatic all the damn shifting prob slowed it down.

I used to have a 06 mustang GT manual transmission that i supercharged and had 425hp at the wheel and it definitely felt faster in the seat of the pants.

Maybe i'm just spoiled because my current car doesn't have a transmission and the 0-60 is 3 seconds, and after 4 years of driving that i just can't go back to a normal car.

Also i was underwhelmed by the interior it was very uncomfortable and like anti-user friendly if that's the right phrase. The controls were just difficult to navigate and there seemed like extra steps were needed when something could've been streamlined if they gave a shit in the design and the GPS felt circa 2013 bottom shelf garmin, even though the car was a 2020 model.

Anyway i gave it back and got my car back out of service, so now it's gonna be back to working on my Harley between the warm days of riding during this unusually warm winter.

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23 hours ago, Bitter said:

Oh Chrysler....and aftermarket parts.

 

13 Charger in the shop with intermittent low brake pedal that pumps up, replaced the master cylinder, brakes all good, but the brake light is now on. Fluid is full. BCM data says the brake fluid level is showing either not connected, normal, or low as the connector is wiggled. It's damn tight to unplug and plug in too so it's a real dick to unplug and plug in. Closer look, terminals are corroded, order terminal kit and have customer come back.

Kit comes in, customer comes back, change connector and terminals. Still super hard to plug in disconnect, but now I've got a status of just always low fluid in BCM data. I can see voltage change when the float is pushed down and goes back up so the circuit is working and the BCM is working. Figure the part is defective, order a replacement from our supplier, plug in the new master cylinder (with reservoir and sensor) and flip it upside down. Same incorrect voltage and same warning light on. Description and operation is unhelpful, just says that the switch is a magnetic reed, float floats, light comes on for reasons, thanks a bunch for nothing.

Google it. Everyone just has low brake fluid or they accidentally kicked the parking brake on. Finally fine one rando who replaced a bad master with an aftermarket one and had the brake light on. They went through all same hoops we've been through but they still had the old part (ours went back for core weeks ago), they compared the new sensor and original sensor and found that the Mopar part has a 10K ohm resistor when the reed switch is open (fluid full), the magnet falls and the switch closes, the resistance goes to closed circuit (.1ohm roughly, fluid empty), or the circuit is open (disconnected). That's how they have 3 states on the circuit for disconnected, full, and low. Use the gauge tester to dial in 10,000 ohms and connect to the circuit and voila in data we see a reading of full fluid and the light is off the dash.

Call the supplier, tell them all their parts are wrong. Call local Dodge dealer, get correct part. Get the old switch out of the new aftermarket master reservoir, go to pop the new one in and doink doink doink it won't slide in. The locking tab is keyed off center on the OE part, it's centered on the aftermarket. Shave the locking tab down to a nub and now it's friction fit, plugs in so so easily, and the light is FINALLY off.

 

 

Why couldn't they have a better description of the circuit operation in service data? What a pain in the ass.

Interesting, did an avenger master cylinder recently and it was being stubborn with the brake light. It randomly went out after like 50 key cycles and I was like WELP SHIP IT.

 

Got a fun one for you guys, not really for me. Scion TC, needs a timing cover reseal and oil pan reseal. Easy stuff. I drop the motor on those because its easy and makes for a better seal. I finish it and start it and it has a CEL. I made sure during my initial diag that it didn't have one as its shop policy to note any lights on as soon as you pull it into your stall. Its a P0335 crank sensor code. At first I thought I mixed up the tone ring because I didn't remember which direction I installed it in. So out goes the motor again. Pull the cover off and its installed correctly. Do some more research and theres a TSB on the cam actuator causing a P0335. The customer reluctantly okays it saying they already had the engine rebuilt. Put it together, and still has a light. Yolo throw a sensor in it because I am out of options (we don't have a scope, ohms were fine during initial diag but that isn't a good test) and running out of time. Work is piling up. Its gone... then I drive it and it comes back on.

 

Ship it to Toyota because I am waay behind on warranty work. They call back in a day and say it has the wrong motor. The shop that "rebuilt" it put a 1AZ in instead of a 2AZ. Customer actually fessed up and said the CEL was intermittent after the rebuild. So its got a 2AZ cam actuator in it and we are trying to decide what to do at this point. Funny enough the head is stamped "AZ" behind the cover. I never really thought to look at the actual engine stamp. Might have to add that one to my diagnostic routine I guess, because that one fooled me. Looked completely normal aside from an aftermarket PCV hose. Ran good too, even on the TC ECU.

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Just popping in to support a local boy

 

 

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