Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[TVwazhere]

[JoaoPRSousa]

On 1/21/2020 at 5:46 PM, bcredeur97 said:

You're supposed to burn the fuel inside of the engine

 

Try telling that to the portuguese ricers OmegaLUL

[kelvinhall05]

Shoutout to the CCC going bad in my parents' E60 5-series...smh. $1000-1600 fix supposedly. And I can't even inspect the capacitors (which I suspect are the culprit) without ripping the dash apart to remove the computer.

 

 

High quality German engineering

[RevoltTrain]

16 hours ago, veldora said:

Yup. It's got a turbo, suspension and mostly cosmetics. Interior is nice too, seats right hold you in.

Isn't it still like 7 seconds to 60?

[Beef Boss]

26 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

Isn't it still like 7 seconds to 60?

I mean Ig. It's just a daily driver.

[RevoltTrain]

26 minutes ago, veldora said:

I mean Ig. It's just a daily driver.

So pretty much like a Camry Hybrid

[BiG StroOnZ]

How dare you!

 

[chaozbandit]

 

https://video.ibm.com/channel/URAUS2SBZAN

[chaozbandit]

[PandaCopyRight]

On 1/25/2020 at 4:12 PM, straight_stewie said:

Those are some famous last words there. These cars aren't known for value or reliability new. I'm sure they are bound to be worse on the used market.

I have no recommendations for your summer car, but I might suggest a 2004-2006 Subaru Impreza (not the STI model) for a winter car. They are available pretty cheap in extremely good condition, they have cheap and easy repairs, they are reliable, people think they're cool, and with just a little bit of practice you can have some serious fun driving one on low traction surfaces, like back roads in winter.

 

By not getting the STI model, the car is waaayyyy cheaper so you can bash the car a little more without feeling guilty about it, but if you decide you want a nicer car, you can build one up to be the same as or better than the STI model, possibly cheaper than buying an actual STI model.

dont get a subaru if you want easy repairs ... rust and boxer engine are big enough reasosns to stay away from them for that .... and lets not forget Ej25/Ej20 and their headgaskets 

[Bitter]

5 hours ago, chaozbandit said:

Why is one so big and one so small?

1 hour ago, PandaCopyRight said:

dont get a subaru if you want easy repairs ... rust and boxer engine are big enough reasosns to stay away from them for that .... and lets not forget Ej25/Ej20 and their headgaskets 

Agree. Get a Toyota/Honda if you want reliable and easy/cheap to repair. Maybe a Mazda but some of those rust really badly.

[chaozbandit]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Why is one so big and one so small?

 

https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/big-m8

 

 

[Jarsky]

After doing the front a few days ago, I finished the rear coilovers and arms install this morning, took her out for a drive and she definately needs some adjusting! 

Will do a final adjustment on the height once the camber & toe is all adjusted and the new sideskirts, lip & diffuser are on. Really gonna need some new wheels with a staggered fitment and the proper offset as well
 

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, Jarsky said:

After doing the front a few days ago, I finished the rear coilovers and arms install this morning, took her out for a drive and she definately needs some adjusting! 

Will do a final adjustment on the height once the camber & toe is all adjusted and the new sideskirts, lip & diffuser are on. Really gonna need some new wheels with a staggered fitment and the proper offset as well
 

 

When I first set the car down after putting my coils on I had accidentally set it to hella slammed. Then later when making adjustments didn't account for how inboard the rear dampers are on the control arm and I had the rear higher than it was stock when I set it back down. I was trying to maths out the stock rake of the car since I liked the stock rake but not the stock height. Took me a few tries to get it all right but in the end all 4 are at the correct heights side to side and front to back and the stock rake is preserved.

[Bitter]

2 hours ago, chaozbandit said:

https://knowyourmeme.com/memes/big-m8

 

 

So...Is that a real image you originally posted or what? It looks...weird.

[Jarsky]

3 hours ago, Bitter said:

When I first set the car down after putting my coils on I had accidentally set it to hella slammed. Then later when making adjustments didn't account for how inboard the rear dampers are on the control arm and I had the rear higher than it was stock when I set it back down. I was trying to maths out the stock rake of the car since I liked the stock rake but not the stock height. Took me a few tries to get it all right but in the end all 4 are at the correct heights side to side and front to back and the stock rake is preserved.

 

Yeah I didn't go absolutely slammed, I just went 1" lower than I had before and pretty happy with that height but will see after the new kit is on. Currently have the spring rate on the default and damper set to 50%. It's pretty hard right now compared to what I had before which I felt was perfect for street so I might need to soften that damper up. I left the rear shelf out for now so I can access the dampers while I test it out. 

[tankyx]

13 hours ago, Bitter said:

So...Is that a real image you originally posted or what? It looks...weird.

[Zando_]

On 1/18/2020 at 6:09 PM, Xtune said:

Any Ford truck owners on here? Have had good luck with mine in my own little fleet of cars. 

Three years ago I had gotten a free F250 was told it had blown motor (it didn't) and cost me way less than having another car payment)
-snip-

I've got the F150 from this gen:

Used to be my dad's for a good few years, it's made the treck across the US from North Carolina to California... 3-5 times or so? Only at almost 190K miles though it is on the second engine (dad had issues with it when he owned it, then something broke while him and my brother were working on it, had to get it fixed, I don't remember many of the details lol). Hasn't given me many issues, only had to replace the starter solenoid/battery leads a bit ago, other than that I've just done oil changes and such. Probably need to get various bearings and such looked at eventually, and get a couple new tires (the driver's rear in that one blew, rolled over something that cut clean through it), but that's about it. Oh and cosmetically it could use a new catback, the current one has one side hanging lose because heat cycling = rust = it's loose now, and has a hole through one end, as you can see in the pic. 

But it runs, sounds damn nice (It's the 4.6L), and gets me to work, does truck stuff when it needs to. Also this is pretty much my favorite bodystyle of F150, only competitors IMO are the newest ones, and the 90s boxy boyes. 

[Bitter]

Uh oh spaghettios. 2013 Juke no acceleration.

[Beef Boss]

52 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Uh oh spaghettios. 2013 Juke no acceleration.

Did you try ductape or starter fluid

[vetali]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

Uh oh spaghettios. 2013 Juke no acceleration.

normal operating condition on repair notes and ship it.

[Jarsky]

 

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

Uh oh spaghettios. 2013 Juke no acceleration.

 

 

They never heard of an airbox? I cant imagine it getting that wrecked any other way....

[IrshaadH]

Guys, I need to change my brake light fluid. What's the best way to go about that?

[Bitter]

52 minutes ago, Jarsky said:

 

 

They never heard of an airbox? I cant imagine it getting that wrecked any other way....

Never heard of engine oil actually

[Jarsky]

47 minutes ago, IrshaadH said:

Guys, I need to change my brake light fluid. What's the best way to go about that?

Theres generally a drain plug on them, and you can actually use blinker fluid to refill them, its interchangeable.