Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Mr.Dingle]

2 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Youre meant to push the right pedal for that

Maybe he cant reach the floor :thonk:

[Mr.Dingle]

41 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

So I bought another bike!

 

  Reveal hidden contents

It's a 1990 Honda NSR 125R

 

It's a little ratty, needs a bit of TLC but nothing is too bad. Engine, frame and suspension is all good from what I have seen. The cosmetics, lights and tires are not the best though. Front break had no leaver and the reservoir was bad, the little window just fell out into my hand when I tapped it so that's one thing that needs replacing. Oh and this is what the rear break fluid looked like:

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Looked like someone put coffee in there...

 

Anyway after a few hours of work it's torn down, front light needs to be fastened better, i don't think it would pass inspection like this. That, tires, a bit of touch up paint and the front break and it's all ready for my brother! Yah it's not for me, even if I want to ride it
You can remove the exhaust plug and update the papers to get 21KW legally, the bike is 135KG so that would be amazing fun. It's already quick from what little I have ridden

 

2 Stroke,  automatic thumbs up . Check the power valve , as it can be a pain if its not synchronised properly with the throttle . Good thing to check is the plug should be golden brown ideally ( mixture wise ) , and if you do remove the exhaust restriction you will have to jet up a few sizes . 

[bcredeur97]

5 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

Maybe he cant reach the floor :thonk:

This reminds me;

I actually used to work with a dwarf who drives a matte black 335i and has to have pedal extensions.

The pedal extensions extend behind the pedal slightly, so its impossible for him to actually use 100% throttle because it hits the floor. I couldn't think of a solution at the time..

[Bananasplit_00]

6 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

2 Stroke,  automatic thumbs up . Check the power valve , as it can be a pain if its not synchronised properly with the throttle . Good thing to check is the plug should be golden brown ideally ( mixture wise ) , and if you do remove the exhaust restriction you will have to jet up a few sizes . 

Thanks for the tips! Power band is very dualsmokey with not even enough power to move the bike below 3k, very little power from 3k to 7k but once it hits that magic 7k it shoots away like a rocket Got any tips on the power valve? Nothing felt of when I have ridden it around. Will check sparkplug tomorrow.

[Mr.Dingle]

9 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

Thanks for the tips! Power band is very dualsmokey with not even enough power to move the bike below 3k, very little power from 3k to 7k but once it hits that magic 7k it shoots away like a rocket Got any tips on the power valve? Nothing felt of when I have ridden it around. Will check sparkplug tomorrow.

Powervalve should follow throttle opening on those models , later models got the RPM or vacuum operated power valves . There are lots of info on line how to check and adjust them , but basically it should stay closed till 5-6k RPM then open up to full position and stay open at above 8k RPM . 

 

If its lacking a lot of power down low , it could need some adjusting . Really not alot can go wrong on those engines , if Honda knows how to make anything at all , its their 2strokes . 

 

Other stuff includes opening up the engine , to inspect the bore for signs of past seizures and general engine health .  Some stuff to watch out for is wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder , it should not exhibit any more wear than the transfer port sides , otherwise it was ran too lean (more heat = piston + rings expand more and since heat transfer is un-even between the two sides , exhaust side tends to wear out quicker especially around the bridge area ) 

 

Since you said it behaves ok , a basic plug and compression test should tell you all you need to know . 

[Bananasplit_00]

8 minutes ago, Mr.Dingle said:

Powervalve should follow throttle opening on those models , later models got the RPM or vacuum operated power valves . There are lots of info on line how to check and adjust them , but basically it should stay closed till 5-6k RPM then open up to full position and stay open at above 8k RPM . 

 

If its lacking a lot of power down low , it could need some adjusting . Really not alot can go wrong on those engines , if Honda knows how to make anything at all , its their 2strokes . 

 

Other stuff includes opening up the engine , to inspect the bore for signs of past seizures and general engine health .  Some stuff to watch out for is wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder , it should not exhibit any more wear than the transfer port sides , otherwise it was ran too lean (more heat = piston + rings expand more and since heat transfer is un-even between the two sides , exhaust side tends to wear out quicker especially around the bridge area ) 

 

Since you said it behaves ok , a basic plug and compression test should tell you all you need to know . 

I think part of why it felt so sluggish down low was the very low tire pressure, probably only 10-15PSI or so along with a still kind of cold engine on grass is at least a bit of it. I think I read the power valve was operated by a servo too? I'll read some more online but engine seems fine so far

[Mr.Dingle]

2 minutes ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

I think part of why it felt so sluggish down low was the very low tire pressure, probably only 10-15PSI or so along with a still kind of cold engine on grass is at least a bit of it. I think I read the power valve was operated by a servo too? I'll read some more online but engine seems fine so far

Yeah , servo , cable or vacuum operated . Should be fun once de-restricted , maybe throw a 32mm carby on it , with a boyseen rid kit ... and a different pipe to suit your riding style ... 

[byalexandr]

23 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Yep especially if the guy you’re overtaking is an idiot and decides to try to speed up too. 

 

If you ever wondered why they make cars with 700hp for the road I’m pretty sure that’s why LOL

 

in the Miata passing someone is:

1. Get back a decent distance

2 wait for a gap

3. When you see a large gap coming, floor it

4. Stay behind in the draft as long as possible and swing out and around and then pass them 

 

It’s like so overly dramatic just to pass someone it’s stupid LOL

Not if you gut 200+ lbs out of the car! Removing the interior, gutting the dash, removing sound deadening, trunk liner, spare tire, jack, emissions equipment, removing the passenger seat and replacing the driver seat with a 9lb Ultra Shield, depowering the steering rack and removing AC, removing shipping tow hooks, removing soft top and frame and replacing with a hardtop, etc. The car not only gained power back from dropping the AC and PS, but with all the weight gone there is quite a noticeable difference in how the car picks up. 80-100+ still accelerates like a dog but up to 80 it shaved several seconds off. I'd say I could easily beat a mini van now whereas before it was the race of the century.

 

Sucks for daily driving especially in Texas summer but so worth it. Looks cool without the interior too lol

[byalexandr]

Huge update on the 400HP built BP!

 

I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up!

 

 

Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuning a bit more.

[Bitter]

Have the scoop off for detail work, frames the bar perfectly.

[terrytek]

11 hours ago, PandaCopyRight said:

floor it a bit sooner? use the sport mode ... if it has one? 

no sport mode sadly. :sadpepe:

10 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

Odd. I’ve never had that problem with the 4L60e which is garbage according to the internet. And the tahoe is like 5300/5400 pounds

well subaru really derped and added fake gear shifting, which kinda defeats the purpose of a cvt.

[Speedyv]

Went to the Petersen, this was my favorite car there. The LeMans winning 935 K3 

 

The aero is just amazing

[iDeFecZx]

6 hours ago, byalexandr said:

Huge update on the 400HP built BP!

 

I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up!

 

 

Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuning a bit more.

inb4 you sell the car as soon as its done

[Bananasplit_00]

How bad is a slightly leaking front fork... Just noticed that one of the front forks on the NSR might be leaking

 

*edit*

also:

Spoiler

 

[byalexandr]

5 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

inb4 you sell the car as soon as its done

Not gonna happen lol this car is here to stay.

[chaozbandit]

@MEC-777 they're using the F1 track for pokemon go next month aaaaahhhh kinda wanna go

 

https://pokemongolive.com/en/post/safarizone-montreal-2019/

 

[bcredeur97]

5 hours ago, byalexandr said:

Not gonna happen lol this car is here to stay.

gotta own it at least 40 years

[chaozbandit]

 

[Beef Boss]

"sounds like something is wearing out." 

"oh, I'm on the rim." 

Haven't even had em a full month yet, damn. 

[AthrunZ]

On 8/6/2019 at 8:06 PM, byalexandr said:

Huge update on the 400HP built BP!

 

I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up!

 

One of the most beautiful things I've seen all day.

I'm jealous!

[warmmilk]

On 8/6/2019 at 5:06 PM, byalexandr said:

Huge update on the 400HP built BP!

 

I have the longblock fully assembled; clean, fresh paint, all buttoned up!

 

 

Of course, I am only $4k into a $15k build but this is a huge step and I'm super happy with how it turned out. I think the next thing I'm going to save for is the turbo manifold kit and the EFR 6758 (which is $3k by itself smh), but I really need to get my ECU soon so that might come first. My MAF sensor is failing on the old engine in the car and I can just straight up delete it with the new ECU, plus it would give me a good chance to get into tuning a bit more.

hey I have the same turbo!

[711jrp]

On 8/7/2019 at 12:20 PM, Bananasplit_00 said:

How bad is a slightly leaking front fork... Just noticed that one of the front forks on the NSR might be leaking

 

*edit*

also:

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Sometimes you can get away with cleaning the seals out with a fork buddy.

[kelvinhall05]

nvm

[Bitter]

My guess would be locked up parking brake, they grab harder in reverse sometimes or a brake caliper came loose and is jamming against the wheel in reverse. Anything that bad with the trans should present issues moving forward as well, at least some noise.

[chaozbandit]

Just another day on the TTC, eh