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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

@Not_Sean So the Koni Shocks + Eibach struts have developed a squeak seemingly overnight in the front, specifically driver side. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the salt on the roads, or my snow tires or what, but I notice it every time I slow down to a stop because I can hear the weight shifting to the front, and the squeak/creek continues the harder I force the car to slow down, and I'll occasionally hear it when going over a bump. A Speed bump would completely confirm my suspicions but I mean what else could it be? It's definitely not brakes (it's not a metallic screeching sound of brake pads being low)

 

I'm also running on about 2.5 hours of sleep so thats fun

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looking around the web it seems like i should be just fine putting DOT 4+ in my bike even though it asks for DOT 4 break fluid and still has some in there, but i thought id ask you guys before i do.

 

the bleed nipple was left open the entire drive home from where it was(like 350km from here) and all the test drives i have done since i got it home to fix the idle. anyway noticed that the break fluid was pretty much gone and that the front caliper was strangely wet for being in a warm garage ? explains why the break was kinda squishy at least :P 

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12 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

Logitech G600 gotcha beat. 20 buttons total

I want one of those.

.

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1 hour ago, RevoltTrain said:

i cant be the only one who likes the NB more than the NA miata 

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5 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

i cant be the only one who likes the NB more than the NA miata 

You're not. I prefer the NBs as well. 

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Just now, Real_PhillBert said:

You're not. I prefer the NBs as well. 

mazdaspeed NB is best miata :ph34r:

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5 minutes ago, PandaCopyRight said:

mazdaspeed NB is best miata :ph34r:

Yes! Very!

 

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3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

@Not_Sean So the Koni Shocks + Eibach struts have developed a squeak seemingly overnight in the front, specifically driver side. I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the salt on the roads, or my snow tires or what, but I notice it every time I slow down to a stop because I can hear the weight shifting to the front, and the squeak/creek continues the harder I force the car to slow down, and I'll occasionally hear it when going over a bump. A Speed bump would completely confirm my suspicions but I mean what else could it be? It's definitely not brakes (it's not a metallic screeching sound of brake pads being low)

 

I'm also running on about 2.5 hours of sleep so thats fun

My Civic did that too but it went away. Maybe your springs are just wearing in or something 

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1 hour ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

My Civic did that too but it went away. Maybe your springs are just wearing in or something 

Dunno. I actually tested going over speed bumps (they definitely flexed) but no squeak. So I'm not sure what it is. They've been installed for at least 5 months and have probably 5k-ish miles on them

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Today on rorznzsblogtechtips.com I've made a bit more progress. Still a lot to smooth out but its looking a lot better. I'm thinking ill go with silver and then finish with one layer of clear. IMG_0207.thumb.jpeg.989cea26db26a2c406eb09cf3ea4a48c.jpeg

I got it done so early that its only 2007. This date is also a little worrying as the default date as the car (and driven) in 2005. 

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49 minutes ago, TVwazhere said:

Dunno. I actually tested going over speed bumps (they definitely flexed) but no squeak. So I'm not sure what it is. They've been installed for at least 5 months and have probably 5k-ish miles on them

OEM strut mounts?

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Just now, bcredeur97 said:

OEM strut mounts?

Yes (Ignore the top assembly's orientation I got it fixed)

20180522_193733.thumb.jpg.4a4e5a4e108a3caf96006820c3a5c31e.jpg

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1 minute ago, TVwazhere said:

Yes (Ignore the top assembly's orientation I got it fixed)

-snip-

no spring isolator on the bottom of the spring where it contacts the strut? might be why..

Idk why kits never include those things...

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3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

no spring isolator on the bottom of the spring where it contacts the strut? might be why..

Idk why kits never include those things...

Interesting. It's definitely rubbing metal-metal so thats a potential

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1 hour ago, TVwazhere said:

Interesting. It's definitely rubbing metal-metal so thats a potential

maybe get some kind of light lubricant such as like a silicone spray or something and spray where the base of the spring contacts the strut.

if the noise goes away, you def know what the problem is. In which case get some factory spring isolators if they fit and put them on there. I don't see why they wouldn't? if they don't you'll need to figure something out. Some springs have like a plastic/rubber coating on the bottom to act as an isolator. I've always wondered how one could "apply" this to a spring that doesn't have it

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11 hours ago, Bananasplit_00 said:

looking around the web it seems like i should be just fine putting DOT 4+ in my bike even though it asks for DOT 4 break fluid and still has some in there, but i thought id ask you guys before i do.

 

the bleed nipple was left open the entire drive home from where it was(like 350km from here) and all the test drives i have done since i got it home to fix the idle. anyway noticed that the break fluid was pretty much gone and that the front caliper was strangely wet for being in a warm garage ? explains why the break was kinda squishy at least :P 

Yeah you’re good. The higher the number, the higher the boiling point of the fluid. I think that’s about the only difference though

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1 minute ago, Cereal5 said:

Yeah you’re good. The higher the number, the higher the boiling point of the fluid. I think that’s about the only difference though

DOT 5 is silicone based and cannot be used in traditional systems otherwise it will destroy the brake system. 

 

Theres a DOT 5.1 now, that is "conventional"

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magic

 

 

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7 hours ago, RorzNZ said:

Today on rorznzsblogtechtips.com I've made a bit more progress. Still a lot to smooth out but its looking a lot better. I'm thinking ill go with silver and then finish with one layer of clear.

IMG_0207.thumb.jpeg.989cea26db26a2c406eb09cf3ea4a48c.jpeg

It's dangerous to drive on the wrong side of the road

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[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

DOT 5 is silicone based and cannot be used in traditional systems otherwise it will destroy the brake system. 

 

Theres a DOT 5.1 now, that is "conventional"

come to think of it, are there any cars out there that actually call for dot 5? i've never really seen it at like autozone or walmart, so i'm sure it isn't that common.

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11 minutes ago, terrytek said:

come to think of it, are there any cars out there that actually call for dot 5? i've never really seen it at like autozone or walmart, so i'm sure it isn't that common.

LLV such as postal rigs use it. Typically you have to request it at a parts store. They put it behind the counter to prevent people from killing themselves. 

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32 minutes ago, vetali said:

LLV such as postal rigs use it. Typically you have to request it at a parts store. They put it behind the counter to prevent people from killing themselves. 

It’s a long term service fluid. Military vehicles use it as well. @terrytek

 

i theory you could use it in your car if you could completely get rid of any and all dot 3/4. It’s very important the 2 fluids aren’t mixed. The pedal feel supposedly sucks tho.

 

i have not seen anyone try this however. And it’s not really worth doing it apart from maybe YouTube views or something

 

they shouldn’t of called the stuff DOT 5. That was a dumb move. Needs a completely different name really

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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1 hour ago, Cereal5 said:

It's dangerous to drive on the wrong side of the road

I'm not driving on a road

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15 hours ago, Real_PhillBert said:

My first thought is that your throwout bearing isn't doing throwout bearing things very well, getting hung up and causing the clutch to not fully engage/disengage. 

That looks like needs a lot of works, so it's going to scrap heap then i guess. 

why everybody post the spec of their rig here? i dont! cuz its made of mashed potatoes!

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