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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

6 hours ago, RGBoy said:

Not in the best condition ever, but I love it. 

Truck.jpg

 

That's what matters! Looks good on the outside ahahah

Enjoy it and with your grandpa, sure it's worth it 😉

"an obvious supporter of privacy"

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2 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

I'm not really a truck kinda guy, but I'd get an old truck like this if I had the change and money, for sure. 

My dad has said he wants to get an old truck like that when he “retires” and putt putt around town checking on all his rent houses with it lol 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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Welp, I get to pull the front bumper off my Celica this weekend, was spot checking the trans cooler and there's a small leak at the upper line where it connects to the cooler. Stupid compression fittings, probably just needs like 1/2 turn is all but it's up there good where I can't reach it. Maybe I should have gone with hose barbs and short rubber sections to make the connections like I originally planned to do? Ah well, better to catch it now then to be boned later, it's a very small leak but that's just not acceptable.

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Well, I decided to get a VF34 for the Baja. If I get new injectors, and an AEM 340lph fuel pump, and maaaaybe a RRFPR, I can push enough performance from the turbo to put my 5 speed into the red, and risk blowing it up. 😄 Fun times. All of that while still keeping full spool under 3,000 RPM.

 

I should get pics, and post them up...

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"If you have a monitor, look at that monitor with your eyeballs." ~ Jake, 2022

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May look crusty on the outside however everything is BRAND NEW and there isnt a spec of rust anywhere on this car. paint to come after manual swap. also super pissed my brand new headlights yellowed in 6 months.... 

20210428_142139.thumb.jpg.3b7a725f64f59628d238f7ba40fb9ca3.jpg20210428_142151.thumb.jpg.e99c41213615ff62ddb7a6ba10424236.jpg

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Cheap headlights don't have proper UV protection on them, they yellow out fast and usually have shitty beams. You can get a shop to sand and clear when they shoot the car.

 

What's wrong in this picture?

IMG_20210428_145159.jpg

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A-yo hydrogen lets gooooooo

 

 

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19 minutes ago, chaozbandit said:

A-yo hydrogen lets gooooooo

 

 

I hate HATE when they put crap for the next videos over the video I'm still watching and I can't turn it off because they've removed the ability to do that lately on Youtube.

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I kinda hate manual belt tensioners because you put a new belt on nice and tight and 2 days later it’s squealing like a pig on cold starts and you have to get back under the car and tighten it down even more 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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33 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

I kinda hate manual belt tensioners because you put a new belt on nice and tight and 2 days later it’s squealing like a pig on cold starts and you have to get back under the car and tighten it down even more 

Now deal with that at a shop lol. Tried explaining to parts we have to keep at least one of each belt in stock on those old hondas because the aftermarket ones are just terrible. The masterpro ones from oreillys are near a waste of resources even making them. Gates isn't that far ahead in that regard. Some of the duralast ones from autozone have been alright.

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49 minutes ago, vetali said:

Now deal with that at a shop lol. Tried explaining to parts we have to keep at least one of each belt in stock on those old hondas because the aftermarket ones are just terrible. The masterpro ones from oreillys are near a waste of resources even making them. Gates isn't that far ahead in that regard. Some of the duralast ones from autozone have been alright.

The only belt that won't make noise on my Celica is a Gatorback style belt for some reason. The new premium Continental belts with the heavy rubber backing are pretty good, like an OEM Mercedes belt. Still noisy on my Mazda, I think it's an alignment issue with the PS pump being a little crooked but I can't be assed to really fix it because it's only an issue on cold mornings so like half the year it's fine.

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10 minutes ago, Bitter said:

The only belt that won't make noise on my Celica is a Gatorback style belt for some reason. The new premium Continental belts with the heavy rubber backing are pretty good, like an OEM Mercedes belt. Still noisy on my Mazda, I think it's an alignment issue with the PS pump being a little crooked but I can't be assed to really fix it because it's only an issue on cold mornings so like half the year it's fine.

I put a continental on my mazda. Was pretty high quality, was nice an fuzzy like OEM honda stuff.

 

fugly AF. I remember when the 10th gen was unveiled I wanted one so bad and ultimately bought one. I feel the opposite here.

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49 minutes ago, vetali said:

I put a continental on my mazda. Was pretty high quality, was nice an fuzzy like OEM honda stuff.

 

fugly AF. I remember when the 10th gen was unveiled I wanted one so bad and ultimately bought one. I feel the opposite here.

Trying to make it look more 'mature'.

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8 hours ago, Bitter said:

The only belt that won't make noise on my Celica is a Gatorback style belt for some reason. The new premium Continental belts with the heavy rubber backing are pretty good, like an OEM Mercedes belt. Still noisy on my Mazda, I think it's an alignment issue with the PS pump being a little crooked but I can't be assed to really fix it because it's only an issue on cold mornings so like half the year it's fine.

I just used the continental elite belts on my civic. Hoping I wouldn’t have this issue lol 

 

didn’t work out... I really wrenched on that alt belt too, it was too tight when I started but now it’s looser 😕 

 

but yeah I’ve been using continental belts since a couple years ago they seemed nice 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Trying to make it look more 'mature'.

Mini-Accord 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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my adrenline is still pumping those turns

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6 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I just used the continental elite belts on my civic. Hoping I wouldn’t have this issue lol 

 

didn’t work out... I really wrenched on that alt belt too, it was too tight when I started but now it’s looser 😕 

 

but yeah I’ve been using continental belts since a couple years ago they seemed nice 

General rule of thumb is the longest span should just be able to be twisted 90 deg when it's properly tightened. Usually only takes about 15 minutes to get the belt broken in and then retighten it, can just let it run while you eat a sandwich then retighten it.

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27 minutes ago, Bitter said:

General rule of thumb is the longest span should just be able to be twisted 90 deg when it's properly tightened. Usually only takes about 15 minutes to get the belt broken in and then retighten it, can just let it run while you eat a sandwich then retighten it.

the  15 min thing is good to know! ill do that from now on

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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I learned the twist thing from the oldest dude in my technical school, has not failed me on non crappy belts. Just be sure to twist the longest run of the belt if it drives more than one thing.

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 32GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Logitech G815 / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / S23 Ultra

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2 hours ago, vetali said:

I learned the twist thing from the oldest dude in my technical school, has not failed me on non crappy belts. Just be sure to twist the longest run of the belt if it drives more than one thing.

Had an 08 MDX in with...wait for it...326,670 on the odo. I had to look around the dash to make sure it wasn't like the 08 Civics with the Mi/KM button. Nope, that's allllll 'Murica miles. Surprisingly in decent shape, no rust out under it because the self oiling system is keeping the rust away. The amount of oil under it was comical. Looked like it was just pouring from the oil filter housing gasket or somewhere around it and the trans was soaked too.

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2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Had an 08 MDX in with...wait for it...326,670 on the odo. I had to look around the dash to make sure it wasn't like the 08 Civics with the Mi/KM button. Nope, that's allllll 'Murica miles. Surprisingly in decent shape, no rust out under it because the self oiling system is keeping the rust away. The amount of oil under it was comical. Looked like it was just pouring from the oil filter housing gasket or somewhere around it and the trans was soaked too.

Yeah that oil filter housing gasket likes to leak a lot. Valve cover gaskets dry up at higher mileage and leak, also cam end plugs will dump oil down the side of the heads and look like head gasket oil leaks.

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Just now, vetali said:

Yeah that oil filter housing gasket likes to leak a lot. Valve cover gaskets dry up at higher mileage and leak, also cam end plugs will dump oil down the side of the heads and look like head gasket oil leaks.

Could have been cam ends leaking down between the engine and trans, my priority was the oil filter housing area leak. Wasn't even in for that, power windows all stopped working. Had a recent Dorman master window switch. In the process of door panel removal I had to unplug the door panel to door connector and when I reconnected to start testing it just all worked now so I just packed all the door connectors with di-electric grease, made sure no wires in the body to door passthrough were boned, and put it back together with some explanation about a stuck module or fretting corrosion on computer data lines. *shrug*

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4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Could have been cam ends leaking down between the engine and trans, my priority was the oil filter housing area leak. Wasn't even in for that, power windows all stopped working. Had a recent Dorman master window switch. In the process of door panel removal I had to unplug the door panel to door connector and when I reconnected to start testing it just all worked now so I just packed all the door connectors with di-electric grease, made sure no wires in the body to door passthrough were boned, and put it back together with some explanation about a stuck module or fretting corrosion on computer data lines. *shrug*

Those era hondas are hard to diag electrical issues because theres hardly any documentation. I think I ranted about that before on the odyssey I got slid on with water leaks. The diagrams suck, pinpoint diagnostics are useless. Probably a bum master switch. You can do a b-can communication check with the scan tool to see if its talking since everything should run off the MICU in those.

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 32GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Logitech G815 / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / S23 Ultra

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40 minutes ago, vetali said:

Those era hondas are hard to diag electrical issues because theres hardly any documentation. I think I ranted about that before on the odyssey I got slid on with water leaks. The diagrams suck, pinpoint diagnostics are useless. Probably a bum master switch. You can do a b-can communication check with the scan tool to see if its talking since everything should run off the MICU in those.

Probably pointless when it's all suddenly working. Could hear the relays in the door clicking for auto up and down, just nothing doing anything.

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12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Probably pointless when it's all suddenly working. Could hear the relays in the door clicking for auto up and down, just nothing doing anything.

Yeah I still say faulty master switch caused it, esp if it comes back again.

 

Reminds me of the new accords that would come in with all the sensing warning indicators with everything losing com with the gauge control module. If I remember right everything talks to the MICU (now properly called a BCM in the new accords iirc) and then it talks to the GCM. Some weird glitch would happen in the BCM and trigger that fault. People were just unplugging the BCM and plugging it back in and shipping it and assuming that fixed it. We were replacing the BCMs because its a safety concern and got engineerings attention. Now there is a recall for BCM software update lol.

 

Kinda like that slough of doing like ~20 fuel injector sets last month. Now Honda sends us a walnut shell blaster to clean intake valves "for an upcoming service bulletin pertaining to misfire and rich codes" geeee

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 32GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Logitech G815 / Logitech G502 / Sennheiser HD 599

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / S23 Ultra

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