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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

I talked to someone not too long ago who was building a Paseo... I don't know if it was here of in Shroud's discord.

1 hour ago, thegreengamers said:

Thanks for the info, I drive a 1992 Toyota Paseo.

They're built in enough that there's probably a forum for them, or at least a section in a toyota racing forum most likely

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1 hour ago, Purp_Juice said:

123D mate 

Contipremiums or regular sport maxx rts

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 hour ago, iDeFecZx said:

Contipremiums or regular sport maxx rts

Cheers for the suggestions - gone for the Sport Maxx RT2s 

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3 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Contipremiums or regular sport maxx rts

it's so weird how you europeans have different tire branding/names from us.

It's like I can't recommend anything because it's all different over there.

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

it's so weird how you europeans have different tire branding/names from us.

It's like I can't recommend anything because it's all different over there.

I'm guessing its all down to marketing really. 

 

Google would have helped me find our equivalent. 

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3 hours ago, Purp_Juice said:

I'm guessing its all down to marketing really. 

 

Google would have helped me find our equivalent. 

 

5 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

it's so weird how you europeans have different tire branding/names from us.

It's like I can't recommend anything because it's all different over there.

Yeah but even so it doesn’t make much sense... whatever

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[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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21 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

I talked to someone not too long ago who was building a Paseo... I don't know if it was here of in Shroud's discord.

They're built in enough that there's probably a forum for them, or at least a section in a toyota racing forum most likely

2

I have used the Toyota forums a bit, but most of the threads I've seen are from before 2010 and it's hard to find anything recent that's related to Paseos. I'll check again soon though. What I really want to do is to take out the automatic transmission and replace it with a manual since that will make it more fun, lighter, and faster; the only problem with that is the conversion can be kind of complicated and expensive...

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I got asked by my dad if I'd kick in some money towards a 80s customized Ford Bronco, I said I'd rather buy a non running civic for the J swap and store it.

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just thought id mention how outragously wrong bikez.com is with its specs, like look at this shit:

image.png.0bcfde4f7b3c90ee18aa1ca4d73ffdb4.png

 

its like the cpuboss of the bike world, using Bikez's numbers my bike has 90.5hp which is almost 1.5x the real number ? also the GS500 engine, sure its DOHC but its still 2 valve/cylinder lol. this website is silly and really shouldnt be trusted and peak power for the GS500E isnt at 9k, its at 9.2k and peak power is closer to 43hp. 

 

the entire comparason website is like that, its so far fucking off you would think it was made by the same dude that came up with the imperial messurement system tbh

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How well old cars are durable in the US? 

I ask that question because where I live (South europe) is very warm & umid, basically near the sea, and people tend not to buy old cars because they would rust quickly, except if you own a garage. 

Maybe a comparable state is California or Florida

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?


 

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⠀⠀⣾⢶⠐⣱⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⣤⣜⣻⣧⣲⣦⠤⣧⣿⠶
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⠀⠿⠃⠈⠿⠆⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠹⠿⠿⠿

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1 hour ago, Lukyp said:

How well old cars are durable in the US? 

I ask that question because where I live (South europe) is very warm & umid, basically near the sea, and people tend not to buy old cars because they would rust quickly, except if you own a garage. 

Maybe a comparable state is California or Florida

Humidity has very little to do with it. In the US, you want a car from the south. In the winter, roads are salted before snow or a freeze, and salt is what actually makes rust terrible. In the southern half of the states, because it is warmer, there are less of these saltings each year, so rust on a car is generally much more manageable. Now if you live near salt water, that definitely doesn’t help. Last year I moved to the Chesapeake bay (I live on water front), so we’ll see how that affects rust. However I purchased my truck from an area about 20 minutes from my house, and it’s in very good shape for being 20 years old.

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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1 hour ago, Cereal5 said:

Humidity has very little to do with it. In the US, you want a car from the south. In the winter, roads are salted before snow or a freeze, and salt is what actually makes rust terrible. In the southern half of the states, because it is warmer, there are less of these saltings each year, so rust on a car is generally much more manageable. Now if you live near salt water, that definitely doesn’t help. Last year I moved to the Chesapeake bay (I live on water front), so we’ll see how that affects rust. However I purchased my truck from an area about 20 minutes from my house, and it’s in very good shape for being 20 years old.

From what I understand, humidity is fine up until the rust begins, it’s at that point that the humidity actually becomes a factor in speeding up the rust process.

 

so buying a rusty car and moving it to an area that’s humid probably isn’t a good idea. 

 

But cars that have lived here all their lives are fine, example my 16yo Miata has no rust at all. 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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On 10/23/2018 at 2:34 PM, bcredeur97 said:

it's so weird how you europeans have different tire branding/names from us.

The Continental snow tyres are called Conti-Viking

I think that's awesome.


 

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⠀⢶⢽⠿⣗⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⣼⡧⠂⠀⠀⣼⣷⡆
⠀⠀⣾⢶⠐⣱⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⣤⣜⣻⣧⣲⣦⠤⣧⣿⠶
⠀⢀⣿⣿⣇⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠛⠿⣿⣿⣷⣤⣄⡹⣿⣷
⠀⢸⣿⢸⣿⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠈⠙⢿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿
⠀⠿⠃⠈⠿⠆⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠹⠿⠿⠿

⠀⢀⢀⡀⠀⢀⣤⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⡀⡀
⠀⣿⡟⡇⠀⠭⡋⠅⠀⠀⠀⠀⠀⢰⣟⢿
⠀⣹⡌⠀⠀⣨⣾⣷⣄⠀⠀⠀⠀⢈⠔⠌
⠰⣷⣿⡀⢐⢿⣿⣿⢻⠀⠀⠀⢠⣿⡿⡤⣴⠄⢀⣀⡀
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⠀⣿⣿⡆⠀⢸⣿⣿⣾⡇⠀⣿⣿⣿⣿⣿⣗⣻⡻⠿⠁
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2 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

Humidity has very little to do with it. In the US, you want a car from the south. In the winter, roads are salted before snow or a freeze, and salt is what actually makes rust terrible. In the southern half of the states, because it is warmer, there are less of these saltings each year, so rust on a car is generally much more manageable. Now if you live near salt water, that definitely doesn’t help. Last year I moved to the Chesapeake bay (I live on water front), so we’ll see how that affects rust. However I purchased my truck from an area about 20 minutes from my house, and it’s in very good shape for being 20 years old.

I live near the Chesapeake Bay as well, but closer to fresh water, and my 26 year old Paseo somehow has almost no rust on the underbody. The only rust spots I've encountered are in tiny rock chips on the paint.

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4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

From what I understand, humidity is fine up until the rust begins, it’s at that point that the humidity actually becomes a factor in speeding up the rust process.

 

so buying a rusty car and moving it to an area that’s humid probably isn’t a good idea. 

 

But cars that have lived here all their lives are fine, example my 16yo Miata has no rust at all. 

meanwhile my 18 year old truck is more rust than steel.

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7 hours ago, Lukyp said:

How well old cars are durable in the US? 

I ask that question because where I live (South europe) is very warm & umid, basically near the sea, and people tend not to buy old cars because they would rust quickly, except if you own a garage. 

Maybe a comparable state is California or Florida

It all is down to where they spent most of their life. CA,AZ and NV cars are often prized because of little to no salt which results in very little rust. 

 

My dads 1969 Malibu has basically 0 rust but it’s lived entirely in CA. 

 

On the other hand a car from NY could be destroyed in 15-20 if it didn’t get salt cleaned off it. 

Good luck, Have fun, Build PC, and have a last gen console for use once a year. I should answer most of the time between 9 to 3 PST

NightHawk 3.0: R7 5700x @, B550A vision D, H105, 2x32gb Oloy 3600, Sapphire RX 6700XT  Nitro+, Corsair RM750X, 500 gb 850 evo, 2tb rocket and 5tb Toshiba x300, 2x 6TB WD Black W10 all in a 750D airflow.
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11 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

From what I understand, humidity is fine up until the rust begins, it’s at that point that the humidity actually becomes a factor in speeding up the rust process.

 

so buying a rusty car and moving it to an area that’s humid probably isn’t a good idea. 

 

But cars that have lived here all their lives are fine, example my 16yo Miata has no rust at all. 

I still think salt plays way more of a factor in it. Even if you live near water, as long as it's fresh water you're normally fine. Living right next to the main bay, I don't expect my truck to last very long unfortunately.

6 hours ago, FuzzyYellow said:

meanwhile my 18 year old truck is more rust than steel.

Lol you're just a glutton for punishment I think

6 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

It all is down to where they spent most of their life. CA,AZ and NV cars are often prized because of little to no salt which results in very little rust. 

 

My dads 1969 Malibu has basically 0 rust but it’s lived entirely in CA. 

 

On the other hand a car from NY could be destroyed in 15-20 if it didn’t get salt cleaned off it. 

I've seen plenty of 10 year old trucks from the Baltimore area have holes through the fenders and bumpers half gone. It's crazy how fast cars and trucks can die if you don't do very minimal maintenance.

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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27 minutes ago, Cereal5 said:

I still think salt plays way more of a factor in it.

That’s what I was getting to. 

 

Stay away from salt always.

 

if you have rust, you better fix it or you need stay away from humidity too. 

 

Basically the humidity doesn’t really factor in much UNTIL something is starting to rust. 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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7 hours ago, GDRRiley said:

It all is down to where they spent most of their life. CA,AZ and NV cars are often prized because of little to no salt which results in very little rust. 

 

My dads 1969 Malibu has basically 0 rust but it’s lived entirely in CA. 

 

On the other hand a car from NY could be destroyed in 15-20 if it didn’t get salt cleaned off it. 

I'd still avoid cars from areas where it's known to get super hot. i hear that the extreme heat can destroy paint and auto interiors, especially black ones. Rust may not be an issue in hot areas, but the heat itself is another issue.

"If it has tits or tires, at some point you will have problems with it." -@vinyldash303

this is probably the only place i'll hang out anymore: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/274320-the-long-awaited-car-thread/

 

Current Rig: Intel Core 2 Quad Q6600, Abit IN9-32MAX nForce 680i board, Galaxy GT610 1GB DDR3 gpu, Cooler Master Mystique 632S Full ATX case, 1 2TB Seagate Barracuda SATA and 1x200gb Maxtor SATA drives, 1 LG SATA DVD drive, Windows 10. All currently runs like shit :D 

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6 minutes ago, terrytek said:

I'd still avoid cars from areas where it's known to get super hot. i hear that the extreme heat can destroy paint and auto interiors, especially black ones. Rust may not be an issue in hot areas, but the heat itself is another issue.

This is true. 

 

And it’s also the one downside to older California cars. Often times quite a bit of sun damage :/ 

 

you can put products on your stuff but that only does so much. Parking in the shade as much as possible does help a lot tho.

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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11 minutes ago, terrytek said:

I'd still avoid cars from areas where it's known to get super hot. i hear that the extreme heat can destroy paint and auto interiors, especially black ones. Rust may not be an issue in hot areas, but the heat itself is another issue.

Only if you don't take absolute bare minimum care of your vehicle.

.

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