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techswede

Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 100k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

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@bcredeur97 local place finally denied me service....

 

I have this lead in Florida, who will give me upgrade hardware kits (so I didn't need the ones I bought from mountune) and treat the gears 

 

I'm starting to have buyers remorse.... Maybe I should just buy one from a junk yard for half the price

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1 hour ago, Mr. horse said:

That was my thought. But a really messed up camber ajuster could do it too if the camber was sifting alot.

That is highly unlikely however.

Probably ran low on air.

in my experience camber within like 3 degrees does very little to tire wear. most cars have a range less than that.

Toe out however.. that will destroy the INSIDE of your tire due to it "scrubbing"

 

if both outside edges are worn like it appears.. then that's a too low of air pressure for too long problem. Likewise, the middle being worn would be too high of air pressure


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1 hour ago, Mr. horse said:

Oh yeah. check them regularly. 

Fill the tire a little less then max PSI the tire is rated at for a car like that. So if the tire calls for 50psi run 45psi. The car will ride smother and grip better and for most tires it will ware slower as max PSI can ware the center of the tire faster.

That is what I do on my jag, its tires are rated for 30k miles and they have 45k ish on them and still have a good bit of meat left.

I was going to say this too..

You really should follow what the manufacturer says to run your tires at. Which is usually around 30-35psi for most cars. lighter cars are generally less, heavier cars a bit more.

However you can in theory run higher pressures safely so long as they do not exceed the tire's maximum rated pressure.


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1 hour ago, thegreengamers said:

I'd say around 2400, but the price is flexible. Tires have just over 1k miles on them and the coolant was flushed and replaced 2 years ago.

ehhh I'd give you $1500 for it. partly because I'm ridiculously far away, and partly because the thing has clearly been outside a lot  with everything dryrotting and the paint aging and could use some work.


Also seeing seat covers... which I hope are just there to keep the seats nice.. but if not.. that means torn up seats.. which means finding replacements.. can be hard to do

 

(also manual swap xD) maybe not.. but would be much better


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@spwath have you rotated your tires at all? Sometimes front tires wear faster than the rears bc they suffer more abuse (turning at speed, accidental hard launches, etc) so that could also be a contributing factor to weird wear patterns. But underinflation and bad alignment like the others mentioned could also be factors too.


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5 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

ehhh I'd give you $1500 for it. partly because I'm ridiculously far away, and partly because the thing has clearly been outside a lot  with everything dryrotting and the paint aging and could use some work.


Also seeing seat covers... which I hope are just there to keep the seats nice.. but if not.. that means torn up seats.. which means finding replacements.. can be hard to do

 

(also manual swap xD) maybe not.. but would be much better

That was an older picture, and I've taken the seat covers off since then. The seats only need a bit of cleaning, but other than a small rip on the driver's side seat, they aren't in terrible condition


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41 minutes ago, thegreengamers said:

That was an older picture, and I've taken the seat covers off since then. The seats only need a bit of cleaning, but other than a small rip on the driver's side seat, they aren't in terrible condition

a rip is a rip tho. :/

 

I'm also just used to seats being impossible to find for my current car so I'm a bit funny about their condition now


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2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

a rip is a rip tho. :/

 

I'm also just used to seats being impossible to find for my current car so I'm a bit funny about their condition now

Haha I get what you mean, I just gave up on finding new seats when I got the car since I couldn't find anything for a Paseo. That also reminds me, I should probably get that rip sewn back together before it's sold.


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Massive.  Free cookie to anyone hwo guesstimates the max. allowed compressor speed (RPM)

IMG-20190515-WA0049.jpeg.543a86bf7b86bb78f462b83718f7b015.thumb.jpeg.3f6165527fc33624f48efc7dbf4d97a0.jpeg

 


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69000 RPM


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Criiiiii, my front bumper is loose. Considering that about three weeks ago, I had a timing belt change so maybe they didn't secure my bumper correctly? 

 

Regardless, at least I now know why there's a slight flapping/banging noise when I'm on the motorway and why I'm scraping my bumper even more on speed bumps. 


Looking at my signature are we now? Well too bad there's nothing here...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What? As I said, there seriously is nothing here :) 

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6 hours ago, spwath said:

 

 

Weird, I wonder why. Just bought last year with 8000 miles on from old lady, then I put it up to 23000 miles, seems early for tires to be this worn...

Especially for just stock car, nothing changed at all...

You need a proper alignment. A lot of the time shops will ‘toe and go’ and not look at camber and caster. Toe has the largest amount of effect on how tires wear but you need the whole lot looked at. Have them do a suspension inspection too. Worn out bushings and joints can also fuck up your tires 


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Forged engine update! Had to take a picture of the cleaned crank, once all that protective wax is cleaned off the super shiny journals show through!

 

1043377913_image1(1).jpeg.181a97e4926b708ebf3aafd1ddd47ab1.jpeg

 

And I got the rotating assembly put together. .017" top ring gap and .019" second ring. Main bearings have .0013" clearance, rod bearings have .0015" clearance. A little loose compared to factory new (still within standards) but this motor is going to make a lot more power than factory. I will end up using 5W-40 oil anyway so it shouldn't be a problem. My Wiseco tapered ring compressor came in very handy, did not have a single worry installing the pistons compared to those 'universal' ring compressors.

1677694610_image2(1).jpeg.ac2bebf231f733e5a501710126a28610.jpegC1CA4359-AF2A-4339-8D14-7CD693215464.thumb.JPG.c5fc06f4dbbe179fb336fb7978fde0c7.JPG

 

Everything spins freely and is within spec! I dropped off the head at Scroggins this morning, forgot to bring the cam caps smh so they have to wait a little longer.  Still about $700 worth of parts to buy for this motor but it's coming along :)


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25 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

Forged engine update! Had to take a picture of the cleaned crank, once all that protective wax is cleaned off the super shiny journals show through!

 

 

 

And I got the rotating assembly put together. .017" top ring gap and .019" second ring. Main bearings have .0013" clearance, rod bearings have .0015" clearance. A little loose compared to factory new (still within standards) but this motor is going to make a lot more power than factory. I will end up using 5W-40 oil anyway so it shouldn't be a problem. My Wiseco tapered ring compressor came in very handy, did not have a single worry installing the pistons compared to those 'universal' ring compressors.

 

 

Everything spins freely and is within spec! I dropped off the head at Scroggins this morning, forgot to bring the cam caps smh so they have to wait a little longer.  Still about $700 worth of parts to buy for this motor but it's coming along :)

so never buy anything other than a *real* piston ring compressor made for the job you're doing. 

 

got it.

 

 

looking good. Shouldn't be much left if they are doing most of the head work for you :D (other than well.. all the details... and putting it in the car xD) 


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22 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

so never buy anything other than a *real* piston ring compressor made for the job you're doing. 

 

got it.

 

 

looking good. Shouldn't be much left if they are doing most of the head work for you :D (other than well.. all the details... and putting it in the car xD) 

Yep. I originally wanted it cleaned and decked, but he told me it was okay to use the stock valves in my application so I went ahead and ordered a valve job too. I will use stock springs for now but I will eventually install heavier springs when I boost it, maybe SUB lifters but I'm not raising the redline any more than 7K or using a larger oil pump. These rods supposedly hold 750hp so I'm not afraid to let boost hit early especially with an EFR 6258/6758 (deciding atm).

 

What I'm really worried about is my trans and diff and how long it will hold 300-350hp -_-


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4 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

Yep. I originally wanted it cleaned and decked, but he told me it was okay to use the stock valves in my application so I went ahead and ordered a valve job too. I will use stock springs for now but I will eventually install heavier springs when I boost it, maybe SUB lifters but I'm not raising the redline any more than 7K or using a larger oil pump. These rods supposedly hold 750hp so I'm not afraid to let boost hit early especially with an EFR 6258/6758 (deciding atm).

 

What I'm really worried about is my trans and diff and how long it will hold 300-350hp -_-

be careful with 4th gear. thats the weakest point of the 6 speed trans

 

the diff.. I'd get some better mounts than OEM for sure. Maybe get that kit that reinforces where they notch it out.. I believe the diff itself can take a lot it just tends to move around a lot and also that notch they cut out for safety if you get rear ended becomes a weak point


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"A redline a day keeps depression at bay" - Author Unknown

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25 minutes ago, bimmerman said:

20190504_103438_HDR.jpg

 

Damn son, gimme some of that


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2 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

You need a proper alignment. A lot of the time shops will ‘toe and go’ and not look at camber and caster. Toe has the largest amount of effect on how tires wear but you need the whole lot looked at. Have them do a suspension inspection too. Worn out bushings and joints can also fuck up your tires 

None of that should be an issue on a 23k mike car though.


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On 5/12/2019 at 10:27 PM, terrytek said:

you could've gone GTI or even golf R, but i guess you wanted to stay within the family?

German cars are nice to admire from a distance for me but not to own.  I'd consider a Porsche, but not a standard VW.  BMW M cars would make the cut, along with Audi S7 or RS6.


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23 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why did so many GM cars have (or still have?) transmission issues? 

The GranPrix GTP has a glass transmission barely adequate for the job, and it was easy for people to change the supercharger pulley to increase boost.  The extra torque was just too much for the 4T60 and 4T65s.

 

Its also the first generation of Electronic slush boxes so it's prone to poor valve body and solenoid design.  GM's 700r4 which became the 4L60E was also prone to failure behind modified V8s.

 

Basically, the transmissions were adequate for the service life of a stock car if you maintained them.  If you failed to maintain them, OR modified the power output they just couldn't reliably handle it.

 

The biggest killer of these transmissions is people who NEVER change the fluid.  It turns into a black sludge over time.  So when they start slipping or acting funny people have them flushed which just breaks the sludge up and sends it through the transmission causing the already failing transmission to self destruct. Its why car guys have that adage where the transmission fluid has never been changed, you do not touch it.  You just pray to it every night for one more mile.

 

On a neglected high mileage transmission you never do a full FLUSH.  You do need to change the fluid, but you do it gradually by draining the pan and replacing the filter only.  This way you only replace some of the fluid.  The new fluids detergents start to break down sludge/varnish.  You repeat this process every 1-2 months for as long as it takes for the fluid to remain pink and fresh looking.   At that point you just change the fluid annually and the transmission will last as long as it can after a harsh life.

 

Unless the manual states "Fill for life" (which is a lie). You should change the fluid every 30,000 miles.  If its fill for life, you should probably change it every 50k.  Fluid breaks down and loses its ability to protect components under high heat loads.  Stop N Go is nasty on a transmission since the torque converter is constantly slipping.  Slipping TC's make heat.

 

Transmission fluid does not like going over 180°F for extended periods.  Road Racing, Towing, extensive stop n' go will all cause that temperature to soar and accelerate break-down.

 


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12 minutes ago, Thirdgen89GTA said:

-snip-

It still baffles me that there was a time in the 2000s that we threw mediocre 4-speed automatics onto V8s intended for performance cars. Like WHAT made us think it was a good idea on any objective?


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man I've really been wanting a Pontiac G8 with even just the V6 because I feel like I could play around with it if I wanted to maybe some sorta turbo set up, I don't think I could really tune it much but at least slapping a turbo or two on it and upgrading exhaust and what not and calling it a day might be enough for me.
Unless getting a LS3 with an auto trans would be worth it if not expensive to make my own G8 GXP.


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We've got an 84 300ZX at the shop with a 'no spark' problem, that digital dash is pretty cool.

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Opinions on the "tuners can do this and that" approach for the new Supra?


my opinion is worthless but i'm going to give it anyway because this is the internet

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