TomvanWijnen

high-ly unrecommended indeed.

OT: didn't people just tell me last year 3600 is all I'd ever need and now I'm supposed to fork out again, and probably next year too!?
 
(I'm pretty happy with my CPU btw and no plans to replacing it but that's pretty ridiculous anyways, just because they keep churning out new CPUs every year doesn't mean you actually have to buy them..  give me a break lol)

no, not really. Really, when someone says future poof, they usually mean to make it more usable farther down the line, which is perfectly viable. So, just for once, try not to be a dick about someone using future proof, when they just want it to be usable for a bit.

open that thing and reapply thermal paste, clean the fan etc.
check the drive for bad sectors, reinstall the os.
those are probably the problem.

Why would I, I can't customize the iPhone without jailbreaking or unnecessary work. I don't care so much about that stuff mentioned in the topic as long as I can use the phone and it works

Lol you've also just eliminated a bunch of people who would quite happily maintain 3 days a week of vigorous exercise but can't stand doing it indoors in a gym, a category which I know many people fall into...

So if subject A takes 45 min to drain the battery and subject B 90 min, but A is 2 times faster, what's the better laptop?

I have a workstation type laptop. I don't always need it to be able to perform high powered tasks. Even so, on battery it can still perform moderately powered tasks. Still, when I'm not home, I still need the higher performance, so I can't live with just a powerful desktop.
 
According to the information I could find, train sockets here are 150 W. I've never even seen a power socket on a plane, so I'd be happy if it was even 50 W. Also, the battery and power socket can work together. If you're supplied 100 W, you can have (part of) the rest come from the battery. Yes, it will drain, but it's better than nothing (for the rare times that you have a low power socket).

Uh you don't always have to use all of the power? And there's still a battery? My laptop with a 150 W charger also works with a 65 W charger. I don't always need it to do 150 W, I also often just need it for "office tasks". I've also never seen a socket that's not able to provide at least 240 W, except maybe in some trains. 

I'd spend it on at least one hard drive. I've been needing extra storage (4 TB or so) for years, but because it's so expensive I've just been putting it off and backing up stuff very inconveniently (part of my backup is literally on a drive that's in an in use computer.... and both of my HDDs on my desktop are more than 90% filled...).

It's truly easy peasy. I knew it wasn't going to be hard, but I didn't expect it to be so easy. lol Painting the darn thing turned out harder than making it to begin with. Stupidly held the spray paint too long in one spot while the second coat wasn't dry enough yet. Bubbled it up. So I had to let it dry completely and sand it down. Repainted it, aaaaaaaand it flops out of my hand as I was unsticking it to let the edge dry and it lands top down on the newspaper I was covering the table with, which of course stuck to it. lol REEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE!!!!! Third times a charm I guess...
Hang it from something if you can. I didn't have anywhere to do that so I had to use a table.
 
Everything except the cable grommet is available at home depot. The acrylic sheet was only 6 something bucks. 5 bucks for the plastic cutter knife. 21 bucks for the heat gun. 4 for the paint. lol 4 more bucks for more paint if you're me... Sigh... 5 bucks for acrylic adhesive if you're making a side wall like mine since I have bottom intake fans. 3 bucks for the cable grommet if you want a hole. And you got yourself a nice shroud. Fun little project that makes your PC look loads better if your case doesn't come with a shroud. Since there are already so many how to vids on how to measure and then bend the acrylic, the only thing I have to add is if you're gluing on a piece. Use acrylic glue similar to what's shown in my pic. It's not actual glue, I just don't know what else to call it. Instead of simply gluing the two pieces together, it melts it and makes a weld. A weld that turned out stronger than the acrylic itself as I found out when I tried to pull apart my test piece the next day and it broke off at where I was grabbing it instead of the weld breaking. That's another thing I'll add. Test it first. Had I just started off with the shroud I would have had a big drop run down the side of the shroud. The glue says medium body, referring to its thickness, but that's pretty much meaningless unless you know that type of material. Something like that makes it loads easier to sand down the seam without having to worry about it coming apart as opposed to something like super glue which isn't going to be nearly as strong.

It doesn't? All power bricks I've ever looked at closely said their power draw and their power output.

Mkay.
 

Fixed that for you:

Why did you use a run-on sentence and terrible punctuation?
 
Not trying to me mean or silly.
 
The answer to that is the reason why Intel uses that exact stock cooler.  They figured that the amount of time and effort into their cooler was commiserate with it's use and value.  It cools enough for stock use.  It does it's job, enough to get by.  Just like you got your question across with minimal effort.
 
 

"Every time I sit down to use it, I end up playing with it instead of working."
- Linus Sebastian, 2020

I forgot to mention that I absolutely love that the title of Google's Blog article announcing this is "Listening to Developer Feedback to Improve Google Play"

I don't have experience with 2 GPUs and 16 monitors, but I do have experience with 2 GPUs and 5 monitors. That worked just fine. One of the GPUs was a GTX 680, the other was some 11-12 year old low end AMD or Nvidia GPU (I used each for some time). I was on Windows 7 though, but Windows 10 should work as well, I'd say.
 
Since you have the materials, I'd just start hooking them up!  Of course, first start with two GPUs, so you aren't somehow missing some crucial step in the beginning.

True, but that's no excuse to do it all the time.

Ah, seems like you're part of the group of drivers I'd like to avoid at all costs.
 
That's just anecdotal evidence.

Ah, seems like you're part of the group of drivers I'd like to avoid at all costs.
 
That's just anecdotal evidence.

30 mph = ~50kmh = ~14 m/s. Basic physics  says you are wrong.

It's not always an easy operation. I've got graphics cards stuck many times before.
 
It depends per motherboard. Do you have a second PCIe slot? Maybe you can closely examine the retention clip there, see what it does.

I don´t get why people are willing to pay these ridiculous prices. It is way too much for a consumer to pay. $20 would at most and that is stretching it. I am glad there are cheap third party sellers.

A retail Windows 10 (home) copy costs 130 dollars, not 300.
It's 200 dollars if you buy the retail Windows 10 Pro directly from Microsoft. OEM version are even cheaper as you said. You don't even have to buy it from a sketchy gray market. You can buy a brand new OEM copy of Windows 10 Pro from Walmart for 60 dollars.
 
So the whole "it would take 5 years to get to that in monthly payments" is more like 12 to 22 months.
 
Besides, Windows 10 was released in 2015. So if we are going to compare monthly payments vs one-time payments then the breakdown would have looked like this:
One-time payment: 60 dollars and it is free forever.
Subscription: I would have paid 360 dollars so far and an additional 72 dollars every year I want to keep using Windows 10.
 
Not a good deal. Companies aren't pushing for consumer subscription services because they are kind and it is good. They do it because the companies behind it wants to make more money and earn it in a predicable stream rather than in big chunks. Simple as that.