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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

1 hour ago, volatus146 said:

heres literally the only 9-5NG for sale in Australia. well overpriced.

not quite sure how two bumpers and a side skirt cost him $20k but there ya go lol

the Vector is the mid-spec car, Hirsch is a performance tuner that worked alongside saab

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/2011-saab-9-5-vector-auto-my11/SSE-AD-12603372/?Cr=0

Hirsch bits are fucking expensive so that + how rare NG 9-5s are may explain the price.

the only NG 9-5 for sale here is about 9k euros  ... roughly 13.5k AUD? 
But its a basic bitch diesel with an automatic and 303k km on the clock 

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3 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Restored the headlights on the Gf's lifted beetle. Driver side came out so good you can see my reflection in the morning sunlight 

 

 

20220425_183447.jpg20220425_185249.jpg20220425_185556.jpg20220426_073815.jpg20220426_073842.jpg20220426_073853.jpg

Why on the car tho? They come out so easily! Pull em out and sand them down with 5K then hand them off to a painter for some 2K clear w/flex and you'll never have to mess with them again.

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55 minutes ago, Bitter said:

They come out so easily! 

Not these ones! I had to replace light bulbs in these and boy are these a PITA to get in/out. The locking mechanism looks simple and actually well thought out but I think 24 years and 125k miles have caused things to get misaligned / stretched/broken. The passenger light took me half an hour to get back in. 

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4 hours ago, TVwazhere said:

Not these ones! I had to replace light bulbs in these and boy are these a PITA to get in/out. The locking mechanism looks simple and actually well thought out but I think 24 years and 125k miles have caused things to get misaligned / stretched/broken. The passenger light took me half an hour to get back in. 

Soak them down with WD40 and just keep working them back and forth, I mechanic in Chicago so I know all about salt and seized stuff. Once you get them free and working they're an absolute breeze and probably the best thing on the car. Pray you never do a timing belt, radiator, ac condenser, etc since those are nose off jobs and if you don't like rusty stuck stuff you're going to hate pulling the nose off the car.

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On 4/25/2022 at 7:22 PM, bcredeur97 said:

it still burns

Question -- will a skyactiv-X motor kinda work if you put diesel in it, since the CR(16.3:1) is so high? or even if you ran like a diesel/gas mixture

I mean the VAG 3.0TDI is only 17.0:1. It's almost the same lol

Probably will on some % mixture. Dunno how much you can go before the engine hates you.

.

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16 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Probably will on some % mixture. Dunno how much you can go before the engine hates you.

I want to see this on YouTube. Who can afford to lose a brand new motor? 

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I'm getting frustrated with this Chevy Traverse. Intermittent no start no crank. Comes in, acting up, start looking at it, fixes itself and won't be broken again so I let it go. Comes back about a week later same thing, no comms with a bunch of highspeed lan modules then it magically starts working again. Few days and a week go by, go to pull it in last night no start. Finally! It's the end of the day but fuck it I'm getting a look at the bus. Bus is fucked, CANH is up at 4 volts with random dips to almost 2 volts. CANL is at 1.5 volts with coinciding jumps to almost 3 volts. Log some data, go home, this morning push it in to look at cause high of 45F today and it's in the shadow side of the building. The car has the AUDACITY to start again now, normal data bus.

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4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I want to see this on YouTube. Who can afford to lose a brand new motor? 

Do it for the views, start a gofundme

.

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16 hours ago, Bitter said:

I'm getting frustrated with this Chevy Traverse. Intermittent no start no crank. Comes in, acting up, start looking at it, fixes itself and won't be broken again so I let it go. Comes back about a week later same thing, no comms with a bunch of highspeed lan modules then it magically starts working again. Few days and a week go by, go to pull it in last night no start. Finally! It's the end of the day but fuck it I'm getting a look at the bus. Bus is fucked, CANH is up at 4 volts with random dips to almost 2 volts. CANL is at 1.5 volts with coinciding jumps to almost 3 volts. Log some data, go home, this morning push it in to look at cause high of 45F today and it's in the shadow side of the building. The car has the AUDACITY to start again now, normal data bus.

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31 minutes ago, RGBoy said:

We’ve done it

Me and my grandpa are finally done with restoring his 61 Galaxie! What y’all think

You could mail a letter from the front bumper to the back bumper because it's about a block away!

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On 4/24/2022 at 3:13 PM, volatus146 said:

i too have made poor life choices

like thinking a dead branded european car is good for the aussie outback (kinda is tbh)

-snip-

Loved my NG 9-3, was a prefacelift 05, but it was still a great lil car. Even if it was a bit small for me. Absolutely adore my OG 9-5 Wagon, would still kill for a NG 9-5 Aero but they are so few and far between

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1 hour ago, RGBoy said:

We’ve done it

Me and my grandpa are finally done with restoring his 61 Galaxie! What y’all think

-snip-

so nice! Great job 🙂 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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9 hours ago, RGBoy said:

We’ve done it

Me and my grandpa are finally done with restoring his 61 Galaxie! What y’all think

 

Oooooooooooooooooooh the matching wheels, excellent job

.

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9 hours ago, RGBoy said:

We’ve done it

Me and my grandpa are finally done with restoring his 61 Galaxie! What y’all think

 

https://portawallshop.com/ Also, needs some of those. Not sure how actually durable they are but some white walls would really complete the look. Or at the very least some chrome trim rings on the wheels.

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Turned my brakes black with heat getting the rust off and pads bedded for summer.

20220502_192550.jpg

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Hey everyone! 

I'm looking for for some - hopefully - educated guesses on if my 2015 VW Polo 90hp TDi is working as intended. 

I have now owned this Polo for a 1.5 years, bought it used obviously, and I'd say I'm pretty good at noticing when different dials are different than normal and so on. About 2 months ago I started noticing that the water temperatur (I think it's water temp) started rising above the normal operation temperature of 90C when first started driving. I saw in normal city traffic and if I got quickly onto the highway. First it started out by rising to 95-100C, and then through the past two months it has gotten worse and worse. 110C was usually hit when first hitting the highway fx. But everytime the temperature rised above 90C, it would hover there for a few minutes and then fall down to 90C and stay there until my drive is done, doesn't matter how far I drive or if I'm driving 50kmh in a city or 130kmh on a highway. But as I said, it got worse and worse. Then last week, after driving home from work, the temperature hit 130C and my car alarmed me saying I had to shut down the engine ASAP and when this happened, I started braking (no traffic behind me) and as soon as I hit the brakes, the temperature instantly fell down to 90C like nothing was wrong, and I was able to drive all the way home, on highway at 130kmh, no problems whats so ever. 

But because of the 130C, I went to the auto repair shop and they tested my cooling system for exhaust gasses because it could have been a part starting to break which would have causes the exhaust gas to leak into the cooling system but luckily this was not the case, so what they did was to swap out the sensor in the cooling system (sorry, not entirely sure what it is called) and this have improved this issue a lot. Notice I say improve because I still see the temperature hit 95-100C if I hit the highway really quickly after a cold start but it no longer hovers there for multiple minutes and before with the old sensor the temperature always hit 110-115C on the highway and hovered there for some minutes, so yeah, huge improvement. Also when driving in the city now, I have yet to see it go above 90C which it started doing always before with the old sensor. Again, huge improvement. 

But now to my actual question; hitting 95-100C for a brief moment on the highway just after a cold start, is this normal or does this still indicate a problem? Maybe this is actually normal and my car have done this always, maybe I just haven't noticed it before two months ago, where it just also started being worse and worse. 

I know that these sensors thingys are parts that get worn down over time and is expected to fail after some years. 

And last thing; if this thread isn't supposed to be a helping thread, then I'm sorry 🙂

Good day everyone. 

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7 hours ago, BetteBalterZen said:

- snip -

 

That is definitely not standard behavior, at first I thought the issue was the thermostat, the E39 I've been driving around notoriously dips below normal temperature when on the highway due to the thermostat staying open. Could be the thermostat failing on your Polo too, it fails to open so the water that is in the engine doesn't move to the radiator to get cooled off, resulting in overheating. Logically, it makes sense, but the improvement that came with replacing temperature sensors doesn't make much sense to me.

It is rather weird too that after braking, the engine went back to normal on that situation you mentioned.


I'd suggest taking it to somewhere just to check the thermostat's condition (if that is even a thing) or just replace it completely and see if that solves it.

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1 minute ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

That is definitely not standard behavior, at first I thought the issue was the thermostat, the E39 I've been driving around notoriously dips below normal temperature when on the highway due to the thermostat staying open. Could be the thermostat failing on your Polo too, it fails to open so the water that is in the engine doesn't move to the radiator to get cooled off, resulting in overheating. Logically, it makes sense, but the improvement that came with replacing temperature sensors doesn't make much sense to me.

It is rather weird too that after braking, the engine went back to normal on that situation you mentioned.


I'd suggest taking it to somewhere just to check the thermostat's condition (if that is even a thing) or just replace it completely and see if that solves it.

Thank you for your input. 

I must admit that I am not sure if the sensor or thermostat was changed. I honestly can't remember now... Anyhow, again, thanks for your input. I will call the mechanic tomorrow and explain how everything has improved but still not perfect. 

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Also dash gauges aren't always very accurate, they're kind of made for the dumb masses. Some gauges are non linear so they rise and fall irregularly, 20 degrees could be 1/4 swing on the gauge for one temp range but from day cold to 60C might be 1/2 of the sweep. You'd probably need to look at actual temp from the computer data.

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On 4/20/2022 at 4:04 PM, iDeFecZx said:

Ouch, think we've had one or two like that.

My car is in for repair right now. That at least gives me the opportunity to test drive an VW ID3 for the duration of the repair. I gotta say i'm pretty sold on EV's now. I was pretty sure that my A3 was gonna be the last ICE car, but now i'm sure of it. The space-ship-like sound at low speed (or lack of noise at higher speed), comfort, power, etc. It's all there.

If someone did not use reason to reach their conclusion in the first place, you cannot use reason to convince them otherwise.

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22 hours ago, Bitter said:

This came in for a gas tank.

index1.thumb.jpg.621c6b10bd26856ef0931613a8fb5ba6.jpgindex2.thumb.jpg.7d89cad73a62bb6c682d6cb3f5a1f563.jpgindex3.thumb.jpg.3734248615385541ba43d62bbbb646c7.jpg

Ok hang on a second… is he trying to power an entire city with his car? Lol 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

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55 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

Ok hang on a second… is he trying to power an entire city with his car? Lol 

Stock alternator and 2 others are DC for the CB radio and vehicle power. 3 other alternators are AC power 'fo when the lights go out ya know' he said with a chuckle.

 

Started pulling my bumper tonight to replace my low beam bulbs, I did not get as far as I had hoped before I gave up for the night. Too tired, I know I'll get sloppy or I'll keep working until I'm just done AND get sloppy. I don't want to screw up, do things twice, break stuff, etc. I also just really like how this picture came out.

 

index4.jpg

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