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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
Go to solution Solved by techswede,
26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

On 5/16/2022 at 9:58 PM, IPD said:

Honestly, the new NSX is far further from the old NSX tree

Agreed, for a car that is supposed to be advanced, it looks bloated, and it looked dated when it came out (the new one I mean), like a laptop from 2003. 

Much unlike its predecessors. It also wasn't groundbreaking in any way. You had the McLaren P1 and Porsche 918 Spyder who did the same thing, better, and earlier. (we don't talk about the BMW i8, that thing is just dumb)

image.thumb.png.cd23de929df7c814d7b9818d40324320.png

 

Look at it. Its bulbous ass looks awkward.

image.thumb.png.21ec866b9b0cc1cdb56055d8cc46307f.png

 

This, while dated, looks better.

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There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

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IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

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6 hours ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

No. I just see stupid. You take a dangerous car that has a reason to be dangerous (MPG, except I could get double that MPG from a Honda Insight), then make it more dangerous, and take away the MPG. What do you have? Nothing. No reason for this to exist. At least sports cars are fun, even though they also have no reason to exist. But this thing is slow, it looks dumb, and it is dumb.

I'm with Doug DeMuro though.  Smart Crossblade looks stupid and isn't practical above 30-35mph, but it would be insanely fun to have for recreation.  Same reason why people love taking the doors/roof off their Wrangler's.  Only the crossblade is way lower to the ground, which gives you more of an impression of speed.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

IMG_20220519_123341.jpg

IMG_20220519_123510.jpg

IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

How many pedestrians died this time?

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9 hours ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

Took my 2005 5.4 Triton F150 FX4 to the Ford dealership to get my exhaust manifold replaced. They said that they wanted to take the whole engine out because the bolts were going to break. The reasoning? Well, little bits could get in the engine. 

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

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Yep. They don't want to screw with it. Good luck, there's some clearance issues getting tools and torch in there but there's some special tools if you have a MIG welder that are supposed to get the broken bolts out. I suggest you don't use Dorman parts, they'll fail. Use studs, not bolts.

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

I feel like lifting the cab and replacing the whole engine might be quicker lol

.

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4 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

I feel like lifting the cab and replacing the whole engine might be quicker lol

In my experience the studs aren't too bad to remove. Its getting the old manifold out and then tightening the new one that sucks.

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Yeah, I ended up getting Dorman studs and a Dorman manifold. @Bitter

I was told by some mechanics at the place I did my internship at that they were OEM or better, and usually better, in terms of quality. It was also cheap.

14 hours ago, vetali said:

To be fair, back in the day the book stated to remove cab and lift engine up to remove the manifolds. I imagine those jobs are jobs that nobody wants to do, so they price it into oblivion so the customer doesn't do it.

 

... kinda like what we do with the old Passports.

Yeah, but why lie? If you don't want to do it, tell me, and give me the number of someone who will. Lying about BS like bits of metal getting in the engine (possible, if you have no brain, and don't shove paper towel in the exhaust port/exhaust on the engine) makes things that much worse. I'm mad about the lying, not the fact that he didn't want to do it.

 

I know it's a tough job, and at this point, I am going to have to do it. I guess that was the point of getting a broken truck, learning how to fix it. I just didn't want to do something so involved yet.

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1 hour ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

Yeah, I ended up getting Dorman studs and a Dorman manifold. @Bitter

I was told by some mechanics at the place I did my internship at that they were OEM or better, and usually better, in terms of quality. It was also cheap.

Yeah, but why lie? If you don't want to do it, tell me, and give me the number of someone who will. Lying about BS like bits of metal getting in the engine (possible, if you have no brain, and don't shove paper towel in the exhaust port/exhaust on the engine) makes things that much worse. I'm mad about the lying, not the fact that he didn't want to do it.

 

I know it's a tough job, and at this point, I am going to have to do it. I guess that was the point of getting a broken truck, learning how to fix it. I just didn't want to do something so involved yet.

Service advisors don't have to know anything about cars to sell work. Its pretty common at dealerships to have advisors that don't know anything about auto repair, rather the ability to sell.

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9 minutes ago, vetali said:

Service advisors don't have to know anything about cars to sell work. Its pretty common at dealerships to have advisors that don't know anything about auto repair, rather the ability to sell.

I saw that when I was doing my internship as well, but it was the people who ordered parts, and only one of the service advisors, that had no clue what was going on. They had to order the same part 3 times before they correctly ordered it. They would order the wrong one, or the wrong oil, or the wrong fluid, or the wrong year, etc. Made no sense.

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I just discovered that the Corvette E-Ray is coming.  AWD Corvette?  Convertible?  Christ, all they have to do is announce that Statutory Grape is a color option, and I'll just sign over my eternal soul right now on pre-order.

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23 minutes ago, DANK_AS_gay said:

I saw that when I was doing my internship as well, but it was the people who ordered parts, and only one of the service advisors, that had no clue what was going on. They had to order the same part 3 times before they correctly ordered it. They would order the wrong one, or the wrong oil, or the wrong fluid, or the wrong year, etc. Made no sense.

Parts guys don't make a lot of money unless they are very good. They usually work the back counter if they are.

 

We had a rule that if you were a service advisor you need prior experience with performing auto repair. I say had, because they're hiring someone with no experience other than sales at another dealer to fill an "urgent" role even though we are slow AF right now. So gonna be interesting. I already had one foot out the door, but some family stuff happened a few weeks ago and I have to stay for a bit longer. I am hoping before year end I am out of this trade.

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We've put 8 Dorman manifolds on 4 F250's, everyone cracked and broke worse than the OEM parts we took off. The OEMs lasted about 90K, the Dorman did 20K or less. The 5th truck got OEM parts and was fine for another 50K miles. One Dorman manifold lost about a 1 inch triangle of cast iron and the others flaked off rust so fast they cracked in 2 places. Totally shit quality cast iron. Dorman used to make good parts but haven't in at least 15 years. Their control arms are on our shit list because they use much thinner steel and have had issues holding pressed ball joints...that they came with preinstalled. They make it out of warranty sure but we look like assholes selling junk parts so we just avoid Dorman as much as possible now. Sloppy parts made from inferior materials. Hard pass!

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Address 01: Engine        Labels: 06A-906-033-BGU.lbl
   Part No: 06A 906 033 EM
   Component: SIMOS71 1.6l 2VG    9428  
   Revision: --H03---    Serial number: 
   Coding: 0000071
   Shop #: 
   VCID: 
   VINID: 

3 Faults Found:
16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 
            P0171 - 006 - System Too Lean
             Freeze Frame:
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.000
                    Voltage: 0.160 V
                    Lambda: 24.6 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.055
                    Voltage: 0.040 V
                    Lambda: 25.0 %

17549 - Load Calculation Cross Check 
            P1141 - 007 - Implausible Value - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Lambda: 34.8 %
                    Lambda: -35.2 %
                    Lambda: 34.8 %
                    T.B. Angle: 5.6°

16555 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1 
            P0171 - 006 - System Too Lean
             Freeze Frame:
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.000
                    Voltage: 0.160 V
                    Lambda: 24.6 %
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Lambda Factor: 1.055
                    Voltage: 0.040 V
                    Lambda: 25.0 %

Readiness: 0000 0000

"Lambda: -35.2 %"
Great, either its on its way out or needs a burnout..... (will see, ill have a longer trip a few weeks later) Also that middle error is coming from the ABS i think:
 

ddress 03: ABS Brakes        Labels: 1K0-907-379-MK70.lbl
   Part No: 1K0 907 379 P
   Component: ASR FRONT MK70      0105  
   Coding: 0017025
   Shop #: 
   VCID: 

1 Fault Found:
01314 - Engine Control Module 
            013 - Check DTC Memory - Intermittent

 

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On 5/19/2022 at 1:21 PM, Bitter said:

There's a story here but I don't know it. Steering is straight ahead, stuck a wheel on one side just to get a skate under it to push it to the lift. 

I'm unrelated news, I have a working Valeo LED fog light without an external lens.

 

 

IMG_20220519_123503.jpg

Nice Riviera out there.

"If you ever need anything please don't hesitate to ask someone else first"..... Nirvana
"Whadda ya mean I ain't kind? Just not your kind"..... Megadeth
Speaking of things being "All Inclusive", Hell itself is too.

 

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5 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

Nice Riviera out there.

Thanks, long term customer project car. Just got the engine and trans sorted, choke isn't working on the Carter AFB, seems like it might be a clogged vacuum passage for the heater pipe to the bimetal but it's running pretty OK in the warm weather without it so it's off to the side again while other things get worked on.

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That 3 liter V6 in the Acura TLX and MDX type S’es has 6 bolt mains and forged internals. 
 

so how long before we have 1000hp 3 row MDX family haulers? 

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55 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

That 3 liter V6 in the Acura TLX and MDX type S’es has 6 bolt mains and forged internals. 
 

so how long before we have 1000hp 3 row MDX family haulers? 

I am surprised they called that thing a J series. Its nothing alike the other engines besides maybe still using a timing belt. Looks complex as well.

 

Would be neat if they slapped one in a Passport to compete with the Explorer ST but I don't think its gonna happen.

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6 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

That 3 liter V6 in the Acura TLX and MDX type S’es has 6 bolt mains and forged internals. 
 

so how long before we have 1000hp 3 row MDX family haulers? 

I'll settle for a 500hp AWD ZDX.

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5 hours ago, vetali said:

I am surprised they called that thing a J series. Its nothing alike the other engines besides maybe still using a timing belt. Looks complex as well.

 

Would be neat if they slapped one in a Passport to compete with the Explorer ST but I don't think its gonna happen.

Passport will never not be a hat-tip to Isuzu, no matter how much Honda tries to put lipstick on it.

 

P.S.

Can someone explain to me why both the Bronco Raptor and the 392 Wrangler are only 4 door?  Has the industry gone full retard?

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3 hours ago, IPD said:

Passport will never not be a hat-tip to Isuzu, no matter how much Honda tries to put lipstick on it.

 

P.S.

Can someone explain to me why both the Bronco Raptor and the 392 Wrangler are only 4 door?  Has the industry gone full retard?

That shitbox gets no hat tipping from me.

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Been looking for either a BMW E93 330i (3 series hardtop convertible around 2007)(super rare), or 1 of the faster Volvo c70s (also a hardtop convertible around that age).

Currently driving a Peugeot 307CC (2006 hardtop convertible), but I want something that goes to 60/100 faster, and offers better comfort.

 

The BMW is my preference, but prices have went up instead of down, and because they are so rare, prices are all over the place anyway. The Volvo's are easier to get, and a bit cheaper. They are also more reliable, but will use up a bit more gas.

 

I still prefer the BMW, but will likely end up with the Volvo. Btw I live in Europe, so maintaining a BMW isn't as expensive as it is in other parts of the world.

 

Anyoje got any opinions on it? Btw incase anyone wonders, yes a hard top is required. It's my daily and in my line of work (youthworker) having a softtop is like begging for it to be stabbed.

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1 hour ago, Neroon said:

Been looking for either a BMW E93 330i (3 series hardtop convertible around 2007)(super rare), or 1 of the faster Volvo c70s (also a hardtop convertible around that age).

Currently driving a Peugeot 307CC (2006 hardtop convertible), but I want something that goes to 60/100 faster, and offers better comfort.

 

The BMW is my preference, but prices have went up instead of down, and because they are so rare, prices are all over the place anyway. The Volvo's are easier to get, and a bit cheaper. They are also more reliable, but will use up a bit more gas.

 

I still prefer the BMW, but will likely end up with the Volvo. Btw I live in Europe, so maintaining a BMW isn't as expensive as it is in other parts of the world.

 

Anyoje got any opinions on it? Btw incase anyone wonders, yes a hard top is required. It's my daily and in my line of work (youthworker) having a softtop is like begging for it to be stabbed.

SLK55 AMG

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