Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[That_Random_Guy]

Just now, Bombastinator said:

Looking at the receipt, the paint alone cost 1400.  Was it maybe custom color or really unusual paint?

NO its literately just OEM ford ultra blue with a Titanium bottom half. 

 

1 minute ago, The1Dickens said:

Do the body work yourself, and save 3135. At 57 hours, I imagine that's a good amount of body work you can do yourself. Probably cut that in half at least.

thats the issue. our stupid HOA wont allow working on cars like that here. i struggled riding lines just doing what i did to the car interior wise

[The1Dickens]

13 minutes ago, That_Random_Guy said:

idk just wasnt expecting 7500 to paint a car. always felt that's almost a showcar price where your fully tearing apart all the panels and doing that, where as their not painting anything like door jams or anything. this is just exterior

 

1 minute ago, Bombastinator said:

Looking at the receipt, the paint alone cost 1400.  Was it maybe custom color or really unusual paint?

Yeah, I agree with Bomb to get some clarification on that. At first, I thought it was the process of painting (since it's charged at the same hours as "Refinishing"), but it's listed as "Material". Now it reads like they are going to use 41.6 gallons of paint.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

On 4/20/2020 at 3:17 PM, Bombastinator said:

They’re all on the nose cap and the nose cap is plastic iirc.  One cheapass solution might be covering It with an auto bra.  Not a fix exactly.

Thats a strip and repaint.  You can't fix the paint.  Most likely the paint is cracking because at some point plastic was flexed. It could be due to age, heat, or physical impact.  But the plastic flexed, and the paint layer was too hard to flex with the plastic, so it cracked.

 

You'll need to have it redone.  But honestly, its a Miata, and judging by the peeling clear onto hood, all of the flat surfaces like the hood, tops of fenders, rear deck lid...etc will need to be repainted. to look nice.

 

The good news is that with a peeling clear, as long as the base coat is still present and in decent shape you can actually save it and make it look decent.  You have to sand the bad, peeling clear away, feathering into the good clear.  Then you lay down a new clear coat and blend that into the good clear.  You'll end up with something not perfect, but looking much better than peeling clear.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

On 4/22/2020 at 7:24 AM, Theguywhobea said:

I assume it would be for throwing some charge in a weak battery that you don't want to or can't hook the clamps up to.

 

The cigarette lighter in your car is fused, typically at 15 to 20amps, so you can't start a car with that level of current, but you will slowly charge the vehicles battery off of it. If you've seen some other places on the internet, they sell little solar panels that sit on your dash and plug into the cigarette lighter to trickle charge your battery.

I've considered buying one of those.  Since my car sits outside and I don't drive it a lot the battery does drain down.  Was thinking the solar charge might at the very least keep it at the same level of charge it parked at.

 

In the winter I pull the battery and put it on a floater, but during the spring/summer/fall I don't want to have to install a battery when I want to drive it.

[Thirdgen89GTA]

1 hour ago, That_Random_Guy said:

idk just wasnt expecting 7500 to paint a car. always felt that's almost a showcar price where your fully tearing apart all the panels and doing that, where as their not painting anything like door jams or anything. this is just exterior

No door jams for $7500 seems to expensive to me.

 

At $7500 I wouldn't expect a show quality or concourse paint job at all.  I'd still expect imperfections in the paint, just not glaring ones.  I'd expect a complete paint-job, all the same color, that is expected to last another 10-15 years with care. 

[vf1000ride]

2 hours ago, That_Random_Guy said:

idk just wasnt expecting 7500 to paint a car. always felt that's almost a showcar price where your fully tearing apart all the panels and doing that, where as their not painting anything like door jams or anything. this is just exterior

My Grand National cost me $8K for a repaint.  It wasn't a full strip and I didn't do the inside of the jambs or any interior but it had a fairly large rear quarter panel dent to remove and a ton of wavy 1980's skin panels to fix.  For mine they pulled bumpers, hood, trunk, rear quarter glass, all moldings and trim work, mirrors, lights.  Worked out to basically 140 hours labor and $1300 worth of paint.

 

One thing I found, and the shop I worked with was very forthcoming with the info being I was paying cash, was the fact that they overcharge the labor expecting to find issues once they start taking things apart and getting under the paint.  The older the car the harder they are to disassemble and things get broken very easily and unsuspecting previous damage or rust gets found.  I had brought them all kinds of replacement body and trim clips, plastic infill panels, headlight surrounds, that kind of stuff to make all of our lives easier as I knew some of mine were brittle already.  It saved them the time and manpower of trying to source parts for an older car.  It's something that you can have the discussion with the painter about and see what they will throw in as extra's like stone guard on the rockers or an extra polish and waxing after the paints fully cured or just a straight reduction in cost. On my car they had completely forgotten to quote me the cost of materials and labor for the clear coat, we talked it out and because the disassembly went way smoother than they expected and I saved them the effort of finding all the plastic trim parts they wrote it off as even and did the job for the original number.

[Bombastinator]

1 hour ago, Thirdgen89GTA said:

I've considered buying one of those.  Since my car sits outside and I don't drive it a lot the battery does drain down.  Was thinking the solar charge might at the very least keep it at the same level of charge it parked at.

 

In the winter I pull the battery and put it on a floater, but during the spring/summer/fall I don't want to have to install a battery when I want to drive it.

They make battery interlocks so you can simply turn off your battery rather than pulling it.  It’s not super simple.  To disconnect and reconnect you have to open the hood and turn a lever.  Still simpler than pulling a battery though.

[That_Random_Guy]

4 hours ago, vf1000ride said:

snip for space

thats very good information, soo now i can at least tell them that all the hardware holding all the bumpers and such and all the trim on the car is brand new as in i just put in on like a month ago. new mounting screws and all so disasembly will be super simple. same with headlights and tails as their entirely brand new as well including hardware, same with the hood cowl. only issue may be doors which i also have brand new door pins they can reuse. the car itself does have dents however i know there isnt any rust at all on it, absolutely none under it and none in the floors or rockers as i replaced carpet and had the the outter side skirts off it when doing something.... i forget actually.

 

And yea i can pretty much say the same with this shop in labor as they have 4 hours of labor jus tin head and tail light removal which alldata on my system calls for 2 hours for everything, and the fact they have 5 hours of labor for each of the A pillars and another 5 hours each for rockers which are perfectly clean as well as 3 more hours each for inner rockers clean as well..... no clue where they are getting 5 hours on a single A pillar let alone 2 when their perfectly clean though ill ask them. same about the double timed labor on the lights which are brand new

 

should also mention if they complain about the repair on the hood i have a brand new hood as well lol and can easily source NOS bumpers for cheap

 

their qoute also states NOTHING AT ALL about removing anything at all except the head/tail lights. not the hood, bumpers, anything which to me seems suspicious and goes along with something i herd though the grape vine talkin to people. they only mask off not remove and for 7500 thats unacceptable

 

probs gonna pass on this place as here at the beach, there is alot of people that dont even know what a bolt is... aka 16 year old rich kids and 80 year old retirees so im sure alot of mistakes get tossed out as people know nothing about what they see. Just feel like this is one of them charge alot but get min skill work places thats INSANELY popular down here

[3 Lions]

Leyland Australia made some absolutley stunning cars back in the day...

 

 

 

 

Edited April 24, 2020 by LinusTechTipsFanFromDarlo

[Bombastinator]

2 hours ago, That_Random_Guy said:

thats very good information, soo now i can at least tell them that all the hardware holding all the bumpers and such and all the trim on the car is brand new as in i just put in on like a month ago. new mounting screws and all so disasembly will be super simple. same with headlights and tails as their entirely brand new as well including hardware, same with the hood cowl. only issue may be doors which i also have brand new door pins they can reuse. the car itself does have dents however i know there isnt any rust at all on it, absolutely none under it and none in the floors or rockers as i replaced carpet and had the the outter side skirts off it when doing something.... i forget actually.

 

And yea i can pretty much say the same with this shop in labor as they have 4 hours of labor jus tin head and tail light removal which alldata on my system calls for 2 hours for everything, and the fact they have 5 hours of labor for each of the A pillars and another 5 hours each for rockers which are perfectly clean as well as 3 more hours each for inner rockers clean as well..... no clue where they are getting 5 hours on a single A pillar let alone 2 when their perfectly clean though ill ask them. same about the double timed labor on the lights which are brand new

 

should also mention if they complain about the repair on the hood i have a brand new hood as well lol and can easily source NOS bumpers for cheap

 

their qoute also states NOTHING AT ALL about removing anything at all except the head/tail lights. not the hood, bumpers, anything which to me seems suspicious and goes along with something i herd though the grape vine talkin to people. they only mask off not remove and for 7500 thats unacceptable

 

probs gonna pass on this place as here at the beach, there is alot of people that dont even know what a bolt is... aka 16 year old rich kids and 80 year old retirees so im sure alot of mistakes get tossed out as people know nothing about what they see. Just feel like this is one of them charge alot but get min skill work places thats INSANELY popular down here

That’s the thing about estimates.  They have to account for possible problems as well as stuff they know they are going to have to do.   You know more about the car than they do, but your info may not be perfect.  The phrase “I know there is no rust on it” for example cannot be taken as gospel because you can only think you know.

[TVwazhere]

15 hours ago, That_Random_Guy said:

NO its literately just OEM ford ultra blue with a Titanium bottom half. 

The guy who did my touch up worked mentioned that blue and red paint is the most expensive. A half pint of my Ford Kona Blue cost him I think $100 (he showed me)

 

He repaired this scratch which cost me $450, and that was for a job that didnt pull all the panels off. I had quotes over $1100 because there was labor included to take off and put on the door and quarter panel. 

[Bitter]

This is why I don't want to get my Celica painted no matter how much I love it, it would be $10,000 to do the whole car to a level that I'd be happy with!

 

I do need to get the front 1/3 done though...but I would HAVE to literally hand them the paint I bought from Toyota because so so many places 'black is black, it's all the same' and that just *internal rage* is not true.

[IKnight]

Friend sent me this. Suddenly I'm hesitant to ever sit in that car again... 

[Bombastinator]

3 minutes ago, IKnight said:

Friend sent me this. Suddenly I'm hesitant to ever sit in that car again... 

Oh you can sit in it.  Just don’t ever let anyone turn the key.  Looking at those welds id call that second ever attempt at using a mig welder.  Maybe third.  I went to art school not welding school though, so the standards may differ.  “Car shaped metal object” may be a better term than “car” looking at that.

[IKnight]

15 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

Oh you can sit in it.  Just don’t ever let anyone turn the key.  Looking at those welds id call that second ever attempt at using a mig welder.  Maybe third.  I went to art school not welding school though, so the standards may differ.  “Car shaped metal object” may be a better term than “car” looking at that.

Yeah I'm a bit sceptical to those welds too hahahha. @PandaCopyRightiirc you learnt how to weld didn't you? What's your take? 

[PandaCopyRight]

18 minutes ago, IKnight said:

Yeah I'm a bit sceptical to those welds too hahahha. @PandaCopyRightiirc you learnt how to weld didn't you? What's your take? 

 

yes, yes i did... 

i mean they look like ass, but probably are functionally ok enough ... still wouldnt go anywhere near that bit of junk 

[MadyTehWolfie]

3 hours ago, Bombastinator said:

Oh you can sit in it.  Just don’t ever let anyone turn the key.  Looking at those welds id call that second ever attempt at using a mig welder.  Maybe third.  I went to art school not welding school though, so the standards may differ.  “Car shaped metal object” may be a better term than “car” looking at that.

I did welding at Auto body school....I would not get into a car with welds like that....

[Bitter]

Is that a strut tower? Yikes!

[Bombastinator]

54 minutes ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

I did welding at Auto body school....I would not get into a car with welds like that....

I expect I do not comprehend the true horror.  I’m thinking of it as furniture.  As a chair it would hold, mostly as long as it doesn’t rust.   As an actual moving vehicle with torsional stress on it? Eek!

[Bombastinator]

26 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Is that a strut tower? Yikes!

Can see where one tack weld already split down the middle.  Double yikes.  Strip it, part it out, and crush it.  Or cut off that entire section and replace it with a working piece.  Even that might not be safe enough.  I don’t know enough about car structure.  That isn’t a strut tower.  At least any more.  It’s a freshman metal sculpture.  

[MadyTehWolfie]

54 minutes ago, Bombastinator said:

I expect I do not comprehend the true horror.  I’m thinking of it as furniture.  As a chair it would hold, mostly as long as it doesn’t rust.   As an actual moving vehicle with torsional stress on it? Eek!

Looks like tac welds only....not structurally sound at all! 

[PandaCopyRight]

1 hour ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

I did welding at Auto body school....I would not get into a car with welds like that....

sadly with 3 layers of bondo, you cant ever tell how the welds are  

[Xtune]

2 minutes ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

Looks like tac welds only....not structurally sound at all! 

bad attempt at stitching, and they aren't dressed ofc it's gonna look bad. 

[IKnight]

Hahahhs thanks for the input. Suddenly I'm more grateful to be alive after riding around for the summer in his old Fiat uno with a rewelded floor ...

[PandaCopyRight]

1 hour ago, IKnight said:

Hahahhs thanks for the input. Suddenly I'm more grateful to be alive after riding around for the summer in his old Fiat uno with a rewelded floor ...

dude, im not a good welder, but even i would be able to do better welds