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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

19 minutes ago, chaozbandit said:

 

I... actually don't know. I've never seem him hold anything lol IIRC he was right-handed during the last autograph session but I could be mistaken.

He may have just put it on the left side because that where it fit. Not like you have to use it with 1 hand

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

Energy suspension bushings + those bearings for the entire car would be around $500

 

I mean it seems super pro or white line might be a better way to go. Grease zerks won’t help me, I’m too lazy.

 

is prothane any good?

 

its basically just front and rear control arms. I’m pretty sure the rear only moves in 2D as well... up and down. What cars move in more than 2 directions? I cant think of anything now that does?

 

also I just read that the black energy bushings have graphite in them to act as kind of lubrication, the red ones don’t have this because it discolors them. Prob helps?

I've got the full Prothane kit on my Celica for a while now (over 3 years, maybe 4-5 years?) and just in the past year I get a little creak when the front arms flex going over curbs, that's all. I've got Energy rack bushings without issue. I did use the included grease liberally though so maybe that's helping, also I don't drive it in winter and seldom in the rain. I guess your mileage may vary, but if you do add grease fittings to bushings without any channels the grease won't get very far and it must be silicone grease, otherwise it can harm the bushings over time.

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2 hours ago, warmmilk said:

idk... I'm horrible with a wheel...  well not horrible, but faster with a controller, and recover from a slide or catch a spin better... only thing steering wheel is better for is long sweepers.. for me anyway...

 

is boersma a lefty? keyboard being on the left and all...

It took me a while to get used to using a wheel for sim racing after using a controller for years upon years, lol. Now I can never go back. ;) 

 

I'm right-handed but place my keyboard on the left side of my sim rig as well because it made sense to put it there. Shifter and mouse pad take up space on the right side. 

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

I've got the full Prothane kit on my Celica for a while now (over 3 years, maybe 4-5 years?) and just in the past year I get a little creak when the front arms flex going over curbs, that's all. I've got Energy rack bushings without issue. I did use the included grease liberally though so maybe that's helping, also I don't drive it in winter and seldom in the rain. I guess your mileage may vary, but if you do add grease fittings to bushings without any channels the grease won't get very far and it must be silicone grease, otherwise it can harm the bushings over time.

I’m actually seeing little channels in pics of the energy bushings for Miatas: 

47612A7A-7920-47AB-888F-2A0A13315A2F.thumb.jpeg.4cf67885c45c3c1f35d89583bf448090.jpeg

 

also yes I know about the silicone grease — basically brake grease correct? I guess it works as a “dielectric grease” as well... what do you use? Where you get a big tube or something of the stuff ?

 

@warmmilk

 

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I had packets with the installation box and slathered them up good, I haven't tried to or added any way to grease them afterward. I've seen mini tubes of silicone grease for the mini guns, I assume they make them for the big ones too but you'd need to either have a dedicated gun or purge the old grease out well.

 

Those channels are more for getting the center sleeve through than grease retention, they give some relief so when the bushing is compressed a little the ID remains the same.

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Some shots of the finally fixed weekend/trackday car. Second trans took a shit on me, so got it built by the best MT-82 builder out there and it feels frikin fantastic! Only put ~3k miles on it this year so far since its been down since mid August :/.

 

Write up minus spoilers in my sig, all the pix in the spoilers got deleted from wherever they were hosted, so the wall of text likely reads a bit stupid now.

fx2_0585_38251401994_o@0,25x.jpg

fx2_0921-hdr-edit-2_28072124809_o@0,25x.jpg

fx2_7087_34819217820_o@0,25x.jpg

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img_8711-3_33300836221_o.jpg

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9 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Energy suspension bushings + those bearings for the entire car would be around $500

 

I mean it seems super pro or white line might be a better way to go. Grease zerks won’t help me, I’m too lazy.

 

is prothane any good?

 

its basically just front and rear control arms. I’m pretty sure the rear only moves in 2D as well... up and down. What cars move in more than 2 directions? I cant think of anything now that does?

 

also I just read that the black energy bushings have graphite in them to act as kind of lubrication, the red ones don’t have this because it discolors them. Prob helps?

performance wise, Energy + SADFab is better.  Streetability wise,  poly bushings are definitely better.  mostly cause these metal bushings aren't sealed in anyway, so dust and sand and dirt and stuff will get in there and loosen up the bearings and they'll start making noise and eventually fail...

 

Prothane and Energy is about the same in my book.

 

as far as grease zerks, I understand being lazy, but you don't need to do it much... its an extra 5 minutes every third or fourth oil change (once a year or so).  I had them on the BMR control arms I had on my Mustang.  I think I only greased them once in the 2 years I owned the car.  At the time BMR used Energy bushings that they cut their own grease channels into.  The guy told me they were switching to SuperPro in the next few months when was buying my control arms.  I don't have zerks on any of my other cars and bushings have never been regreased on any of the cars I mentioned in the previous post.

 

I don't know anything about graphite or not...

 

a crap ton of cars use 3D motions for control arms, I'd guestimate 95% of cars made since 2000 have at least one multidirectional bushing.  For cars with multilink rear suspension it could look like all the arms move in a 2D motion but when you actually cycle the wheel up and down you'll see that some of the arms move in a 3D arc.  Typically a multidirectional bushing will be a big bushing, to give it that flex... but if the side arc is small you could get away with a standard 2D type (aka smaller) bushing for rubber since rubber flexes... but if its poly with no relief cuts for engineered in flex... it'll bind... not to mention wear out that bushing much faster.

 

by far the most common 3D arc control arm is the front that looks like this.  see that horizontal bushing, thats all flex motion.  almost every McPherson strut car has this kind of lower control arm, although this one is from an NC Miata.  A lot of BMW's have a similar thing, except the bushing is mounted to the chassis and the control arm is inserted into that as an attachment point.  So Whiteline solves this problem by putting relief cuts into the bushing (although they also sell an all metal spherical bearing for some applications) but the way SuperPro does it is much better in my opinion.  They actually have 2 ways... the cooler new way (which I haven't owned cause they started selling it after I bought my stuff, is this (click watch on Vimeo)

1347863091_NCMX5DriversFrontLowerControlArmNE5134350D.jpg.ea41be0f2000c0447a69311559a62d08.jpg

 

So Whiteline solves this problem by putting relief cuts into the bushing (at least last time I checked.  although they also sell an all metal spherical bearing for some applications. but the way SuperPro does it is much better in my opinion.  They actually have 2 ways... the cooler new way (which I haven't owned cause they started selling it after I bought my stuff, is this (click watch on Vimeo)

I have the ones like this, where they shape the poly bushing with a curve (in cross section) so it rotates on the sleeve.  so the actual poly bushing see's less flex... so better for handling and longevity 

Image.thumb.jpg.6b1742562edcc1c1e8c2df5f82bafafe.jpg

 

7 hours ago, MEC-777 said:

It took me a while to get used to using a wheel for sim racing after using a controller for years upon years, lol. Now I can never go back. ;) 

 

I'm right-handed but place my keyboard on the left side of my sim rig as well because it made sense to put it there. Shifter and mouse pad take up space on the right side. 

thats possible... I borrowed one from a friend for a while... I got decent with it (by my standards) but still generally slower.  it was just weird having actual car controls but absolutely no feel or feedback.  I mean there was feedback, but it was just all fake... not anything remotely what it feels like in a real car.  so for me it just didn't compute.  for driving games, I'll stick to my xbone controller

7 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

I’m actually seeing little channels in pics of the energy bushings for Miatas: 

47612A7A-7920-47AB-888F-2A0A13315A2F.thumb.jpeg.4cf67885c45c3c1f35d89583bf448090.jpeg

 

also yes I know about the silicone grease — basically brake grease correct? I guess it works as a “dielectric grease” as well... what do you use? Where you get a big tube or something of the stuff ?

 

@warmmilk

 

hmm... looks like a new feature... or maybe just a miata specific thing?  idk if its just the pic or if its actually like that... but it looks like the inner circle isn't a really good circle...  its prolly just the pic (cause the no channel ones I've seen in real life are actual circles), but if its not, i'd stay away from them on that basis.

 

as far as grease, I've always just used what came with the bushings.  My Mustang BMR control arms didn't come with grease, the guy said any synthetic grease automotive will be fine.  After significantly more pestering, I finally got him to tell me that they use Amsoil stuff at their shop.  But they have like 10 different kinds and I honestly don't remember which exact grease it was now.

 

here's what SuperPro grease  channels look like, its more of a knurling.  I'm about 90% certain that the Whiteline channels are more like the Energy ones you posted and not like these...  a "pro tip" I've seen on MotoIQ is to use a wire brush to scratch up the inside of a bushing before greasing to get the SuperPro effect, but idk how well that works.

bushing-kit-superpro-spf2450k-06-600l.jpg.f6d1f7eddba6f3db4002a93ddbc2faa8.jpg

 

 

and before anyone comes in here and accuses me of being sponsored by SuperPro... I fücking wish...

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2 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

Some shots of the finally fixed weekend/trackday car. Second trans took a shit on me, so got it built by the best MT-82 builder out there and it feels frikin fantastic! Only put ~3k miles on it this year so far since its been down since mid August :/.

 

Write up minus spoilers in my sig, all the pix in the spoilers got deleted from wherever they were hosted, so the wall of text likely reads a bit stupid now.

-snip-

oh man I miss my mustang... unfortunately I never tracked mine (well I took it drag racing once).  It was before I really started tracking and I was really milking the "my car isn't ready yet" excuse...  Mine was white with cloth Recaro's and Brembo brakes as the only options.  Minus the 3.72 gears that come with the Brembo's, it was the perfect spec for me...  and I love the way it sounded with the Kook's catback...

 

what all do you have done to yours?

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New turbo, rebuild kit, waste gate actuator, and larger compressor housing are in. Now to wait for thr bigger compressor wheel to come in, and then find somewhere to build this thing up properly for me

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@Maybach123 Some more shots

 

 

JCSPOT_181229 2.jpg

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JCSPOT_181229 14.jpg

JCSPOT_181229 15.jpg

JCSPOT_181229 17.jpg

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@warmmilk I want to just give up and throw superpro in... but the struggle is im cheap lol. $860 all around is... a lot. 

I hate making purchasing decisions xD

 

I might just go for the stiffer rubber bushings from IL Motorsport... they are <$500

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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4 hours ago, warmmilk said:

thats possible... I borrowed one from a friend for a while... I got decent with it (by my standards) but still generally slower.  it was just weird having actual car controls but absolutely no feel or feedback.  I mean there was feedback, but it was just all fake... not anything remotely what it feels like in a real car.  so for me it just didn't compute.  for driving games, I'll stick to my xbone controller

 

It is strange for sure, to not feel the g-forces and other feedback from the car itself that you feel IRL. But as for the wheel feedback, quite often, the feedback settings need to be adjusted to be more realistic. Took me a good 1-2 hours the other day to adjust the feedback settings of my new wheel to "feel" the way it should (as close to real life as possible) so that I can feel bumps, curbs, undulations in the road surface, vehicle weight transfer and tire grip (side load). It's not perfect (and never really will be), but it's pretty close. 

 

Without doing that, and depending on the game, it can just feel quite numb and "rubber band" like, vs giving you actual feedback of what the car is doing. 

 

Yeah, the xbone controller is one of the best out there. When forced to race with one, that's the one I'd use. ;) 

 

 

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8 hours ago, warmmilk said:

oh man I miss my mustang... unfortunately I never tracked mine (well I took it drag racing once).  It was before I really started tracking and I was really milking the "my car isn't ready yet" excuse...  Mine was white with cloth Recaro's and Brembo brakes as the only options.  Minus the 3.72 gears that come with the Brembo's, it was the perfect spec for me...  and I love the way it sounded with the Kook's catback...

 

what all do you have done to yours?

O man. The list is long. Very long lol. It is a 3.7 v6 since I got it while in college, already an awesome first car! And it was new too!! So, while people will always give the v6 shit, I bet this v6 would give most of the 5.0’s you see a run for their money. Not at the drag strip, but almost everywhere else. I would know, my dad has a 2015 5.0 performance pack. Lol.

 

Anyways, let’s just start at the front and move backwards?

 

JLT CAI, BBK 73mm TB, ported and polished upper and lower intake manifolds, BBK shorty headers with stock CATS (I live in California, and plus this motor sounds better with cats anyways strangely...) Borla ATAK mufflers, MPT 91 tune, MGW Race Spec shifter (entire external to trans replacement, makes the mt82 SO MUCH BETTER via fixing the poorly engineered stock shifter box and linkage. Uh, Fidanza 11.8 lbs aluminum flywheel, RAM HDX clutch, drive shaft shop 1 piece aluminum DS.

 

Suspension: BMR front sway from the gen 1 S197 since their gen 2 is just to aggressive and really only for full track cars, bmr endlinks, BMR rear lower control arms, panhard bar and rear sway links (stock rear sway bar since the mustang doesn’t need a big rear bar), Koni Yellows with some decent lowering springs that are a good mix between street driving and track, J&M front CC plates with as much caster as I could get and -1.9 camber although I could use more...

 

 

Random stuff: BMR poly motor mounts, Recaros, Brembos, 3.73 gears, Setrab oil cooler, diff rear cover from the gt500/boss 302 that ya fins for cooling, front strut tower brace, Centric blanks rotors with HAWK HPS 5.0 pads all around, SVE Drifts in 19x9.5 with 275 MPSS’s. Uh, hmm. Likely missing some things, but that about covers it I think. O, right, my new trans. It’s a Ben Calimer Stage 2 (REM and Cryo treated gears, welded shift forks, brass shift pads, billet shift stops, some other stuff he does, he is the number 1 MT-82 builder bar none), so yea that about does it. 

 

Its a hell of a fun car, and been a 7 year long never ending project of joy. Truley love that thing.

 

it “only” makes 290/270 to the wheels, but really, it’s plenty enough, and the torque curve is very good and flat. It is substantially better than a stock motor looking at my vs stock dunno graphs. Sure, on a fast track a more powerful car will run away, but it’s nimble, lively, fun, sounds fantastic, a bit light on its feet compared to a v8, and being that I did all the work myself it’s a huge sense of pride, thus the reason this post was so long lol. 

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35 minutes ago, ElfenSky said:

This unicorn lives near my dorm in Kortrijk, Belgium. A TVR Tuscan.IMG_20181206_132612.thumb.jpg.5f92762ecdf97470ffd1dfa7e9bd2288.jpg00000IMG_00000_BURST20181206132547081_COVER.thumb.jpg.96f1361e680d32086ddd44c3fb139806.jpg00000IMG_00000_BURST20181206132624554_COVER.thumb.jpg.42db11cd8e9278eed5e90a4937347c35.jpg

 

those things look like Dodge Viper on meth.

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On 12/28/2018 at 4:36 PM, Bananasplit_00 said:

my 500cc isnt especially fast :P but yah a 400 can be really quick

Fair enough, though 500CC bikes were mostly based off 90s designs so a new 400CC probably makes close to as much power and has a better suspension set up also /shrug

 

1 hour ago, ElfenSky said:

This unicorn lives near my dorm in Kortrijk, Belgium. A TVR Tuscan.

Oh man. What I would give to own a TVR. Mostly just want a Sagaris though lol.

 

@LIGISTX hate to break it to you but a 6770K is not a CPU

My Build, v2.1 --- CPU: i7-8700K @ 5.2GHz/1.288v || MoBo: Asus ROG STRIX Z390-E Gaming || RAM: 4x4GB G.SKILL Ripjaws 4 2666 14-14-14-33 || Cooler: Custom Loop || GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 Ti SC Black, on water || PSU: EVGA G2 850W || Case: Corsair 450D || SSD: 850 Evo 250GB, Intel 660p 2TB || Storage: WD Blue 2TB || G502 & Glorious PCGR Fully Custom 80% Keyboard || MX34VQ, PG278Q, PB278Q

Audio --- Headphones: Massdrop x Sennheiser HD 6XX || Amp: Schiit Audio Magni 3 || DAC: Schiit Audio Modi 3 || Mic: Blue Yeti

 

[Under Construction]

 

My Truck --- 2002 F-350 7.3 Powerstroke || 6-speed

My Car --- 2006 Mustang GT || 5-speed || BBK LTs, O/R X, MBRP Cat-back || BBK Lowering Springs, LCAs || 2007 GT500 wheels w/ 245s/285s

 

The Experiment --- CPU: i5-3570K @ 4.0 GHz || MoBo: Asus P8Z77-V LK || RAM: 16GB Corsair 1600 4x4 || Cooler: CM Hyper 212 Evo || GPUs: Asus GTX 750 Ti, || PSU: Corsair TX750M Gold || Case: Thermaltake Core G21 TG || SSD: 840 Pro 128GB || HDD: Seagate Barracuda 2TB

 

R.I.P. Asus X99-A motherboard, April 2016 - October 2018, may you rest in peace. 5820K, if I ever buy you a new board, it'll be a good one.

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1 hour ago, FuzzyYellow said:

those things look like Dodge Viper on meth.

Meth, not even once

.

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2 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

 

@LIGISTX hate to break it to you but a 6770K is not a CPU

Whoops. Good catch, literally never noticed and neither has anyone else :/  

Rig: i7 13700k - - Asus Z790-P Wifi - - RTX 4080 - - 4x16GB 6000MHz - - Samsung 990 Pro 2TB NVMe Boot + Main Programs - - Assorted SATA SSD's for Photo Work - - Corsair RM850x - - Sound BlasterX EA-5 - - Corsair XC8 JTC Edition - - Corsair GPU Full Cover GPU Block - - XT45 X-Flow 420 + UT60 280 rads - - EK XRES RGB PWM - - Fractal Define S2 - - Acer Predator X34 -- Logitech G502 - - Logitech G710+ - - Logitech Z5500 - - LTT Deskpad

 

Headphones/amp/dac: Schiit Lyr 3 - - Fostex TR-X00 - - Sennheiser HD 6xx

 

Homelab/ Media Server: Proxmox VE host - - 512 NVMe Samsung 980 RAID Z1 for VM's/Proxmox boot - - Xeon e5 2660 V4- - Supermicro X10SRF-i - - 128 GB ECC 2133 - - 10x4 TB WD Red RAID Z2 - - Corsair 750D - - Corsair RM650i - - Dell H310 6Gbps SAS HBA - - Intel RES2SC240 SAS Expander - - TreuNAS + many other VM’s

 

iPhone 14 Pro - 2018 MacBook Air

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8 hours ago, LIGISTX said:

(I live in California, and plus this motor sounds better with cats anyways strangely...)

v6s are trumpety. Catless makes it a turd trumpet. 

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 64GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Razer Deathstalker v2 / Razer Basilisk v3 Pro / Sennheiser HD 600

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / iPhone 15 Pro Max

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48418369_2070727866316311_8496661298333876224_n.jpg.58e7e9eeaa36c2e9cf3fffdfc7026da2.jpg

 

No thank you. 

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at least it wasn't a valve seat lul

5800X3D / ASUS X570 Dark Hero / 64GB 3600mhz / EVGA RTX 3090ti FTW3 Ultra / Dell S3422DWG / Razer Deathstalker v2 / Razer Basilisk v3 Pro / Sennheiser HD 600

2021 Razer Blade 14 3070 / iPhone 15 Pro Max

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Really wish the Subaru levorg was available in us. Basically a longer wrx hatchback? Sounds great to me!

Maybe I'll get one imported after college...

n0ah1897, on 05 Mar 2014 - 2:08 PM, said:  "Computers are like girls. It's whats in the inside that matters.  I don't know about you, but I like my girls like I like my cases. Just as beautiful on the inside as the outside."

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