Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[Guest willies leg]

18 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Regarding the Honda vs Tesla, how old was the Honda and how long had you owned it vs the Tesla? That sounds more like just new car vs busted old car problems.

Last Honda with a carb was the early 80's I think, no one made good cars then. Some just made ones worse than others.

@willies leg

 

 

'81 Honda Civic hatchback, turd brown. Had the car around 8 years, did everything myself, lots of miles. But also lots of maintenance and repairs. It was amazingly easy to work on, lots of room up under the hood. Had one of those hoods that opened forwards (away from the windshield).

 

Don't get me wrong, it was a lot of fun and I learned a lot, and got a lot of tools I wouldn't normally have. I guess that's why I do so much with PC's now, same deal happened there.

 

 

[Bitter]

34 minutes ago, willies leg said:

 

 

'81 Honda Civic hatchback, turd brown. Had the car around 8 years, did everything myself, lots of miles. But also lots of maintenance and repairs. It was amazingly easy to work on, lots of room up under the hood. Had one of those hoods that opened forwards (away from the windshield).

 

Don't get me wrong, it was a lot of fun and I learned a lot, and got a lot of tools I wouldn't normally have. I guess that's why I do so much with PC's now, same deal happened there.

 

 

So keep that in mind when comparing a vehicle built 40 yrs ago to one built now, how much technology has changed vehicles and manufacturing since then to now.

[bcredeur97]

25 minutes ago, Bitter said:

So keep that in mind when comparing a vehicle built 40 yrs ago to one built now, how much technology has changed vehicles and manufacturing since then to now.

it's crazy how much has changed between the 2000's and 2010's even.

[vetali]

7 hours ago, PandaCopyRight said:

as a hatchback owner why bother with a longer car when you can get a shorter one? 

Finally a good take in this thread.

[bcredeur97]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Finally a good take in this thread.

why bother with 4 wheels when you can have 2?

[The_russian]

2 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

why bother with 4 wheels when you can have 2?

Because I don’t want to die when someone is texting while driving and swerves into me.

[vetali]

4 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

it's crazy how much has changed between the 2000's and 2010's even.

I think the real change has been 2010-present. Not much changed in the 2000s, recession and all.

 

Personally, the worst thing about working on newer cars is how super sensitive the computer is. Replace an ABS sensor with an aftermarket? Well the computer doesn't like the signal and throws an intermittent ABS light. Aftermarket A/F sensor? Forget about it.

 

Been fighting this passport for several months that keeps throwing an intermittent evap small leak code. Owner is wanting to lemon law it even though the first two repairs for the code were for physical damage to the capless fuel flapper. After the fuel pump recall it came back on, I contacted our amazing techline and outlined I went over the module with soapy water with the system pressurized and no issues. Evap test passes with minimal decay. They instantly insist its the fuel pump module related to the recall. So I tell the owner to drive it for 2 fill ups and bring it back so we can see if the monitor ran and theres nothing pending. Went through that, nothing was pending. Monitor passed. Yay. Thought maybe it was faulty logic with opening up the system after the customer filled up. Comes back a week later now with a large leak code. No leaks found, evap test passes. I have a feeling that pressurizing the system is causing a false seal on the flapper. While pressurized the air works with the seal on the flapper, under vacuum it works against. So I am replacing the whole filler neck assembly this time, and to humor techline I am also replacing the fuel pump module o ring again.

 

Thing has me stumped honestly, but each time the light comes on it coincides with a fill up. Monitor runs regardless of tank level.

[Bitter]

4 minutes ago, vetali said:

I think the real change has been 2010-present. Not much changed in the 2000s, recession and all.

 

Personally, the worst thing about working on newer cars is how super sensitive the computer is. Replace an ABS sensor with an aftermarket? Well the computer doesn't like the signal and throws an intermittent ABS light. Aftermarket A/F sensor? Forget about it.

 

Been fighting this passport for several months that keeps throwing an intermittent evap small leak code. Owner is wanting to lemon law it even though the first two repairs for the code were for physical damage to the capless fuel flapper. After the fuel pump recall it came back on, I contacted our amazing techline and outlined I went over the module with soapy water with the system pressurized and no issues. Evap test passes with minimal decay. They instantly insist its the fuel pump module related to the recall. So I tell the owner to drive it for 2 fill ups and bring it back so we can see if the monitor ran and theres nothing pending. Went through that, nothing was pending. Monitor passed. Yay. Thought maybe it was faulty logic with opening up the system after the customer filled up. Comes back a week later now with a large leak code. No leaks found, evap test passes. I have a feeling that pressurizing the system is causing a false seal on the flapper. While pressurized the air works with the seal on the flapper, under vacuum it works against. So I am replacing the whole filler neck assembly this time, and to humor techline I am also replacing the fuel pump module o ring again.

 

Thing has me stumped honestly, but each time the light comes on it coincides with a fill up. Monitor runs regardless of tank level.

Had a GM product with a large leak code once. Turns out it was a purge valve NOT flowing. Some idiots programmed the code logic wrong so when it commanded purge but saw no drop in tank pressure or tank vacuum it threw a large leak code because what other possible problem could it but a large leak? I've ran into this before with Toyota throwing O2 codes on bad thermostats because of lack of switching because its in cold enrichment.

[sub68]

8 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Problem? Solution.

SawZalls are one of the best inventions

[Bitter]

1 minute ago, sub68 said:

SawZalls are one of the best inventions

Air hammer.

[vetali]

1 minute ago, Bitter said:

Had a GM product with a large leak code once. Turns out it was a purge valve NOT flowing. Some idiots programmed the code logic wrong so when it commanded purge but saw no drop in tank pressure or tank vacuum it threw a large leak code because what other possible problem could it but a large leak? I've ran into this before with Toyota throwing O2 codes on bad thermostats because of lack of switching because its in cold enrichment.

Yeah, some part of me wonders if its messed up logic or a solenoid. I just don't see many faulty solenoids on newer Hondas, which use a much simpler evap system than the older ones. Its pretty much the same design as the GM ones with a CVS and CPV, canister, then a filter. Turbo CRVs and I think Accords use a leak detection pump like Chrysler. Civics are different.

[sub68]

Just now, Bitter said:

Air hammer

Fair, thats why I said one of the _____

[MadAnt250]

42 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I've ran into this before with Toyota throwing O2 codes on bad thermostats because of lack of switching because its in cold enrichment.

That reminded me of the BS P0420(I think) (cat efficiency) code on the Toyotas. The catalytic converters were fine, still 90% good, and the PCM just needed a reflash (I have not done it). I do not think a lot of independent shops would have known about this at the time and would probably just replace the cats, also because not a lot of shops had the equipment to do PCM updates/flashes, but the dealers did.

[Snadzies]

54 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Air hammer.

I got an air hammer not too long ago and I can't believe I ever got by without one.

[vetali]

43 minutes ago, MadAnt250 said:

That reminded me of the BS P0420(I think) (cat efficiency) code on the Toyotas. The catalytic converters were fine, still 90% good, and the PCM just needed a reflash (I have not done it). I do not think a lot of independent shops would have known about this at the time and would probably just replace the cats, also because not a lot of shops had the equipment to do PCM updates/flashes, but the dealers did.

Most independent shops have access to TSBs. Most can't reprogram unless they are equipped. Honda used to allow you to reprogram as long as you had a passthru device. I am not sure about now, especially in the new Civics that require a ECU key. Some manufacturers charge on a per vin basis, others you pay an insane amount for access for everything. Hopefully right to repair changes that.

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, vetali said:

Yeah, some part of me wonders if its messed up logic or a solenoid. I just don't see many faulty solenoids on newer Hondas, which use a much simpler evap system than the older ones. Its pretty much the same design as the GM ones with a CVS and CPV, canister, then a filter. Turbo CRVs and I think Accords use a leak detection pump like Chrysler. Civics are different.

Fuck those old LDP's with the switching vacuum and spring diaphragm. Also fuck that NVLD system they have now. Really fuck that NVLD. The little switch weights never diagnose right and it's almost always a guess.

Granted I do use vapor pressure as a quick leak diag, pinch the system closed (or command it closed), put on the scanner on tank pressure graph and go do something else for a bit, make sure pressure rises. No pressure rise means you have a leak. It's very sensitive to seeing you have a small leak there somewhere. Great way to verify a repair or confirm the problem is present before going through all the testing. You might give that a shot to look for tiny leaks, you get accustomed to how quick pressure builds the more you use that method. Also that's why you can't seal the system and look for vacuum decay when there's fuel in the tank...

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Fuck those old LDP's with the switching vacuum and spring diaphragm. Also fuck that NVLD system they have now. Really fuck that NVLD. The little switch weights never diagnose right and it's almost always a guess.

Granted I do use vapor pressure as a quick leak diag, pinch the system closed (or command it closed), put on the scanner on tank pressure graph and go do something else for a bit, make sure pressure rises. No pressure rise means you have a leak. It's very sensitive to seeing you have a small leak there somewhere. Great way to verify a repair or confirm the problem is present before going through all the testing. You might give that a shot to look for tiny leaks, you get accustomed to how quick pressure builds the more you use that method. Also that's why you can't seal the system and look for vacuum decay when there's fuel in the tank...

I don't really mess with much Chrysler evap stuff. Actually don't see them fail too much outside of gas caps. Did have a jeep wrangler with a cracked vent line. Gotta replace the whole gas tank.... or replace electrical tape every few months according to the owner.

 

I wish Honda let you do a purge and seal. I guess I could leave the vent plug in, but that doesn't test the CVS performance. Unfortunately the tank is at like 70% too.

[Bitter]

30 minutes ago, vetali said:

I don't really mess with much Chrysler evap stuff. Actually don't see them fail too much outside of gas caps. Did have a jeep wrangler with a cracked vent line. Gotta replace the whole gas tank.... or replace electrical tape every few months according to the owner.

 

I wish Honda let you do a purge and seal. I guess I could leave the vent plug in, but that doesn't test the CVS performance. Unfortunately the tank is at like 70% too.

Well if you're gonna use natural vapor pressure rise (NVPR? Wait isn't that public radio?) a fuller tank raises pressure faster because there's less volume to fill. If they won't let you seal the system close whatever solenoid you can and block the other line and vice versa, gotta do it twice but whatever you can kind of just walk away with it on a charger for like 15 minutes which is why I like using it because I don't need to babysit it. If I have no controls then I just block lines and let it go for a bit. Ambient temp influences how fast the pressure rises. I like to test the purge solenoid by bleeding off pressure then watching it rise again to make sure the solenoid runs, it flows, flow increases with command, and then it re-seals. Also your nose can be an excellent leak checker too. I've located many very small or impossible to see leaks with my nose. I've got like idiot savant nose though, I can smell the smells under the smells.

[vetali]

17 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Well if you're gonna use natural vapor pressure rise (NVPR? Wait isn't that public radio?) a fuller tank raises pressure faster because there's less volume to fill. If they won't let you seal the system close whatever solenoid you can and block the other line and vice versa, gotta do it twice but whatever you can kind of just walk away with it on a charger for like 15 minutes which is why I like using it because I don't need to babysit it. If I have no controls then I just block lines and let it go for a bit. Ambient temp influences how fast the pressure rises. I like to test the purge solenoid by bleeding off pressure then watching it rise again to make sure the solenoid runs, it flows, flow increases with command, and then it re-seals. Also your nose can be an excellent leak checker too. I've located many very small or impossible to see leaks with my nose. I've got like idiot savant nose though, I can smell the smells under the smells.

What I do is hook the smoke machine up to it at the purge valve with the vent blocked off with a plug. I can smell gas, mostly from the filler neck area. If I got time tomorrow I will check the datastream. We have been so damn busy its insane, plus with a tech out sick its been hell. Can't hire anyone because nobody wants to work. Only get 5-10 minute chunks to look at it through the day. Plus my lift broke, so thats fun.

[Beerzerker]

2 hours ago, Snadzies said:

I got an air hammer not too long ago and I can't believe I ever got by without one.

Airhammers for doing things like tie-rod ends, ball joints and such are N.I.C.E. to have around.

Mine may be getting a workout soon with the latest project I've got. Unfortunately I'm having to abandon the Torino project for several reasons but I now have something that's more like what I've always wanted in the first place. I will be accessing the Torino project to sell off later along with the engine (BB 460) and all else that goes with it.
I hate to see it go since I built that engine way back in the day and it still runs well even now but that's how it goes sometimes.

Anyway, this is the one I've got now and yes, it's a VIN plate and cowl numbers confirmed Sprint with a little 260 V8.
From what I was told it's basically original, most if not all of it is there and has the matching numbers drivetrain in it too.

Will be test firing off the engine tomorrow after fixing what some jack-leg mechs did to create, not solve problems with it. If you don't know how to replace and setup ignition points, let someone show you how it's done because these guys needed lessons about it. Was easy to fix and get right again but just having to deal with it and seeing what was done doesn't make me want to take it to them for any work, plus the idiots werre trying to fire it off with bad oil in the motor too, had alot of water/moisture mixed in and had to drain and refill it with good oil.

Those guys may have saved the engine by screwing up the ignition so it would never run, which I'm glad of.

I'll be doing a video of this test firing tomorrow.

[Bitter]

21 minutes ago, vetali said:

What I do is hook the smoke machine up to it at the purge valve with the vent blocked off with a plug. I can smell gas, mostly from the filler neck area. If I got time tomorrow I will check the datastream. We have been so damn busy its insane, plus with a tech out sick its been hell. Can't hire anyone because nobody wants to work. Only get 5-10 minute chunks to look at it through the day. Plus my lift broke, so thats fun.

[the gamer that is bad]

6 minutes ago, Beerzerker said:

Airhammers for doing things like tie-rod ends, ball joints and such are N.I.C.E. to have around.

Mine may be getting a workout soon with the latest project I've got. Unfortunately I'm having to abandon the Torino project for several reasons but I now have something that's more like what I've always wanted in the first place. I will be accessing the Torino project to sell off later along with the engine (BB 460) and all else that goes with it.
I hate to see it go since I built that engine way back in the day and it still runs well even now but that's how it goes sometimes.

Anyway, this is the one I've got now and yes, it's a VIN plate and cowl numbers confirmed Sprint with a little 260 V8.
From what I was told it's basically original, most if not all of it is there and has the matching numbers drivetrain in it too.

Will be test firing off the engine tomorrow after fixing what some jack-leg mechs did to create, not solve problems with it. If you don't know how to do replace and setup ignition points, let someone show you how it's done because these guys needed lessons about it. Was easy to fix and get right again but just having to deal with it and seeing what was done doesn't make me want to take it to them for any work, plus the idiots werre trying to fire it off with bad oil in the motor too, had alot of water/moisture mixed in and had to drain and refill it with good oil.

Those guys may have saved the engine by screwing up the ignition so it would never run, which I'm glad of.

I'll be doing a video of this test firing tomorrow.

paint it yellow black and white with chrome accents 

[Beerzerker]

29 minutes ago, the gamer that is bad said:

paint it yellow black and white with chrome accents 

Nope - It's an original "Triple Black" car meaning black paint, interior and top.
These are a rarity within the Sprint lineup it turns out and I'm doing it back the way it should be, plus black is probrably the cheapest color for all three of these things anyway.

Most of these were, for example red with white interior and top or blue with black interior and top, typically these colors were mixed to make them "Pop" visually and that's fine but after doing the research all black convertibles within the Falcon convertible line (Coupe, Futura and Sprint models) are rare, in fact this one is a rarity within a rarity since true Sprints are rare anyway no matter how it's optioned.

That's why I'm keeping it "Correct" or at least as correct as it's possible for me to do.

[AlwaysFSX]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

-snips-

Fuck I want some fruit loops now.

[bcredeur97]

Last day of my current job. Feels weird