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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

14 hours ago, Cereal5 said:

That is a damn good price. Fusions have great ride quality, I'd have no problem buying it if it checks out. The 2.0T is a pretty good engine, makes good enough power to get up and still gets good fuel economy. It's slightly high on the mileage side, if you go off the 12-15k per year avg, but only by a couple thousand. With a 140 mile commute I'd imagine you put your fair share of miles on a car too lol.

They just deal with having no booster after a couple pumps. That doesn't matter as much in anything except drifting though, cause most people don't hit the gas and brake at the same time unless you're brake boosting lol.

If plugs and wires were never changed, that would be good to do even if it's not the problem (which it very well might be if what you say is true). When you pull the plugs, check to see if any cylinder is having a problem (a quick google of "how to read a spark plug" will get you started). An easy way to check which cylinder is misfiring is to idle the engine and pull each wire individually (with all others plugged in). If the idle changes, that cylinder is firing. If it doesn't, that cylinder isn't firing. Just wear gloves, everything will be hot lol. One quart every 3k is more than I'd be comfortable with, but not unheard of. Are you sure you're burning it and not just leaking? Burning oil will cause a bluish colored exhaust (easiest to see under load, smells too). Any 5.0L still on the road is guaranteed to have some sort of leak. If you do have a misfire, you could be getting cylinder wash. That's where the unburnt fuel in a cylinder washes the oil off the wall of the cylinder. Usually it just fouls the oil and spark plug, and it will eventually kill the cylinder wall, but it's possible an incomplete combustion could contribute to the oil loss.

 

Worst comes to worst you can just unplug the cylinder with the misfire and unplug the injector and run on 7 cylinders ?

i've looked at reviews on the fusion and it seems like people have issues with the 6 speed auto, from sucky acceleration to misshifting to even full on trans failure, but of course those are only a select few. and this isn't for me lol it's for my dad :P 

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On 2/13/2019 at 10:20 PM, Cereal5 said:

Yeah that's cause it burns at basically 6.5:1 instead of 9:1 like ethanol or 14:1 like gas.

Makes a hell of a lot of power though! And BATs below freezing :x 

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49 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

But then that literally goes back to my original argument of OEM’s not needing vacuum pumps.. 

NHTSA has certain safety standards, one of which is something about the brakes being able to stop the vehicle in the event of the engine failing and if the engine fails while in boost, which the little ecoboost engines are almost always in boost, then you may not have enough vaccum reserve to safely stop the vehicle. Also Ford may be running some turbo stuff with vacuum controls (waste gate maybe) and need it for that. On the 2.0T Fusion the vacuum pump supplied the brake booster, a line tapped off to a solenoid which fed vacuum to two other devices somewhere else behind the engine that I didn't care about, probably a waste gate and probably something with evaporative emissions which many car makers use vacuum to test.

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Dont think I've ever had such a successful day working on a car.

Exhaust is fitted, only snapped 1 bolt that wasnt even needed.

Battery tie down has been fixed and now has a new alternator belt.

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

But then that literally goes back to my original argument of OEM’s not needing vacuum pumps.. 

Honda with the Civic turbos uses a valve that creates a venturi effect when air (boost) flows by. Creates vacuum for the brake booster and evap system. Thats why theres so many evap lines, theres two places where the evap system can purge. Each of those locations have two lines going to them. Type Rs use their own vacuum pump, and the other models use electronic assist. 

 

NA motors that run on atkinsons cycle or have cylinder deactivation sometimes require vacuum pumps, depending on the design and programming. 

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3 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

Dont think I've ever had such a successful day working on a car.

Exhaust is fitted, only snapped 1 bolt that wasnt even needed.

Battery tie down has been fixed and now has a new alternator belt.

Seems a little loud and coarse, but if you like it that's all that matters. The exhaust on my Celica sounds almost exactly like stock at idle, only gets a little louder under acceleration.

 

 

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28 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

Dont think I've ever had such a successful day working on a car.

Exhaust is fitted, only snapped 1 bolt that wasnt even needed.

Battery tie down has been fixed and now has a new alternator belt.

All jokes aside, good job. The simple jobs are always the ones that take all day.

One of my mates had a Type-R, he accidentally downshifted to 2nd on the motorway trying to race someone and blew it up ?

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48 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Seems a little loud and coarse, but if you like it that's all that matters. The exhaust on my Celica sounds almost exactly like stock at idle, only gets a little louder under acceleration.

 

 

Its the quietest car ive owned still

 

34 minutes ago, TheBigZeeek said:

All jokes aside, good job. The simple jobs are always the ones that take all day.

One of my mates had a Type-R, he accidentally downshifted to 2nd on the motorway trying to race someone and blew it up ?

Everything came undone as it should (apart from that one bolt) and the new bits bolted up and lined up perfectly. Really surprised me even for a 14 year old car. Next jobs are to tackle the wobbly suspension and uh, lack of stopping ability

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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9 hours ago, Ross Siggers said:

Infact, I found a picture one of the previous owners sent me. This is my car maybe about a decade and 3(?) owners ago, sporting it's original wheels, RC041's upfront, and wider RC042's on the rear.

 

 

And this is the car last summer, sporting different BBS, these are RS740/741 

 

DSC_2119-01.jpeg

Which colour is that? Mora? It looks amazing

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Always wanted to do that when I had my blazer. Still one of the best gauge clusters made. 

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I love it when we get a car with a digital cluster from the 80's or 90's in the shop, they are super cool. They're also nigh impossible to repair, you have to send the whole thing out and hope they can fix it at extraordinary expense.

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1 hour ago, iDeFecZx said:

Everything came undone as it should (apart from that one bolt) and the new bits bolted up and lined up perfectly. Really surprised me even for a 14 year old car. Next jobs are to tackle the wobbly suspension and uh, lack of stopping ability

Well that's lucky! I don't think I've had anything simple to do on mine, there's always been a ceased bolt or something doesn't line up etc.

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5 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I love it when we get a car with a digital cluster from the 80's or 90's in the shop, they are super cool. They're also nigh impossible to repair, you have to send the whole thing out and hope they can fix it at extraordinary expense.

Apparently the power supplies on those are a common issue, and flickering. But that was back when people were splicing right into the primary side of the coil for the tach instead of going to the ECM for the filtered signal. 

 

The board repair industry is a good industry to be in. Gonna be even better once all these new cars start having issues on headunits that cost 3 grand or more to replace and you can't use aftermarket setups.... and the car doesn't work without the headunit. 

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Just now, vetali said:

Apparently the power supplies on those are a common issue, and flickering. But that was back when people were splicing right into the primary side of the coil for the tach instead of going to the ECM for the filtered signal. 

 

The board repair industry is a good industry to be in. Gonna be even better once all these new cars start having issues on headunits that cost 3 grand or more to replace and you can't use aftermarket setups.... and the car doesn't work without the headunit. 

Yep, assuming they allow aftermarket repairs...they may lock the devices up in some way so opening the device trips a fault in software and bricks the unit, that would not surprise me one bit. Actually kind of surprised that Apple doesn't do that...

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1 hour ago, iDeFecZx said:

Its the quietest car ive owned still

 

Everything came undone as it should (apart from that one bolt) and the new bits bolted up and lined up perfectly. Really surprised me even for a 14 year old car. Next jobs are to tackle the wobbly suspension and uh, lack of stopping ability

I'll have to try to get a good sound clip of the exhaust sometime, when the weather is warm and I can drive it. I have one from behind the car parked when it was brand new but it sounds terrible on my old cannon camera...and the muffler hadn't broken in at all. I still get more intake noise than exhaust noise by a long shot, it sounds so raucous.

Bask in ye olde video taken on a sony camera mounted to the chin of my car when it had an air intake and only an air intake.

 

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7 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Yep, assuming they allow aftermarket repairs...they may lock the devices up in some way so opening the device trips a fault in software and bricks the unit, that would not surprise me one bit. Actually kind of surprised that Apple doesn't do that...

I could see it happening where tampering enters the device into anti theft mode. Then you gotta pay to have it unlocked. Pretty much already doing that with ECM replacements needing reprogramming by OEM scan tools... and new Chryslers requiring you to login to their network before allowing scantool access beyond a security gateway thanks to the viral jeep "hacking" a few years back. Working for a private shop is going to really suck in a few years once all this shit starts hitting them.

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We just send cars to the dealer for programming anyway, we don't do that often enough to have the subscriptions needed or the software licenses. The cost/benefit ratio isn't there for us.

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1 minute ago, Bitter said:

We just send cars to the dealer for programming anyway, we don't do that often enough to have the subscriptions needed or the software licenses. The cost/benefit ratio isn't there for us.

Still sucks when you have to have it towed for 15 minutes of work. 

 

What scanners you got over there? I hear snapon is pretty lacking now. Aside from the Honda scan tools we have to matco rebranded launch. Its ok, but I hate I can't view all PIDs at once. Have to go and select each PID every time. Bi directional is hit or miss. Sometimes works, sometimes doesn't. Can't do a basic purge and seal on some GMs, some it works fine. 

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We've got a Verus Pro, an old Verus we use sometimes, and I have a Creader 8001 for quick checks, basic data, and resetting oil lights. I used to have a Creader 6 but I left it on the roof of my car one Saturday and it didn't survive.

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37 minutes ago, Bitter said:

We've got a Verus Pro, an old Verus we use sometimes, and I have a Creader 8001 for quick checks, basic data, and resetting oil lights. I used to have a Creader 6 but I left it on the roof of my car one Saturday and it didn't survive.

I have an old creader... mixed up a MAP code for a o2 code and I haven't used it since. I got one of those bluedriver ones for my phone and its pretty good for domestics. Still waiting for a decent scan tool to come out before I buy my own. 

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8 hours ago, Bitter said:

I think Amber looks good on darker cars...but that's evidently just me.

I feel it cheapens the look personally. But I've always felt that way. It may just be me

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I would like to share another story (came back on the forum to see what the big hoo-hah was all about) of my flat tyre. 

 

> Get in my lovely Peugeot 407 Sport to go into town to meet a friend

> Uh-Oh flat tyre - not to worry I have a spare. 

> Get all the lug nuts loose, but one (Has a security lug nut)

 

> No problem I'll get the adapter. . . . Adapter breaks when I try and use it. Clearly been tried before. 

> Ho-hum ill drive to the garage to get the wheel changed. Garage can't touch it without the key for the lug nut. 

> Seems reasonable, off to the Peugeot dealer. 

 

> Peugeot don't make them any more, for any of their cars and sell new lug nuts instead, only problem they can't get the security nut off. 

> Go to Beaurepaires to get the wheels off with a hammer (did try with mine, but didn't work). Come back 2 hrs later, they couldn't get it off.

> They had to call in a welder to weld the security lug nuts off (they are doing all the wheels and replacing the lug nuts)

 

Probably the most awful flat tyre ever :( 

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9 minutes ago, floofer said:

I would like to share another story (came back on the forum to see what the big hoo-hah was all about) of my flat tyre. 

 

> Get in my lovely Peugeot 407 Sport to go into town to meet a friend

> Uh-Oh flat tyre - not to worry I have a spare. 

> Get all the lug nuts loose, but one (Has a security lug nut)

 

> No problem I'll get the adapter. . . . Adapter breaks when I try and use it. Clearly been tried before. 

> Ho-hum ill drive to the garage to get the wheel changed. Garage can't touch it without the key for the lug nut. 

> Seems reasonable, off to the Peugeot dealer. 

 

> Peugeot don't make them any more, for any of their cars and sell new lug nuts instead, only problem they can't get the security nut off. 

> Go to Beaurepaires to get the wheels off with a hammer (did try with mine, but didn't work). Come back 2 hrs later, they couldn't get it off.

> They had to call in a welder to weld the security lug nuts off (they are doing all the wheels and replacing the lug nuts)

 

Probably the most awful flat tyre ever :( 

Argh.. the dreaded security nut. I remember when my uncle had a 407, that thing was a pain in the arse to get out without an adapter.

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2 hours ago, vetali said:

I have an old creader... mixed up a MAP code for a o2 code and I haven't used it since. I got one of those bluedriver ones for my phone and its pretty good for domestics. Still waiting for a decent scan tool to come out before I buy my own. 

I haven't had that, I don't use it to diag just check IM, clear codes post repair, reset oil lights, quick stuff where I don't want to lug out the $10,000 machine or whatever it costs.

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