PSU Tier List [OLD]

[Stefan Payne]

3 hours ago, DirectNova said:

I am having a LOT of coil whine when gaming and I have had shutdowns while gaming in the past, I think its time to upgrade my powersupply.

Yeah I think that's a good idea.

However its not because the PSU is too weak its because its too old, so you'd be fine with another 550W though in better quality...

 

As for the PSU, how much is a be quiet Straight Power 11, bitfenix Whisper M?

[orbitalbuzzsaw]

4 hours ago, DirectNova said:

I have been debating for the past 24h between those two PSU's, I need help to decide lol.

 

EVGA Supernova G3 650w

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=500

 

Seasonic Focus Plus 650w

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story6&reid=524

 

I am still using my PC built in 2011 with a 2500k, 550w PSU but upgraded my GPU 2 years ago for a R9 390 Strix.

 

I am having a LOT of coil whine when gaming and I have had shutdowns while gaming in the past, I think its time to upgrade my powersupply.

 

Both are priced similar

EVGA 109.99 CAD

https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540302322&sr=1-1&keywords=evga+supernova+g3

 

Seasonic 112.98 CAD

https://www.amazon.ca/Seasonic-SSR-650FX-ATX12V-Modular-Compact/dp/B073H33X7R/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540302293&sr=8-1&keywords=seasonic+focus+plus+650&dpID=417ZCoM9ODL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch 

 

What do you guys think?

I'd get the Focus+ Gold of those two but I would personally get the RM550x

[awesomegamer919]

22 hours ago, kingmustard said:

How about something crowdsourced, like I've started to make here?

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1n5T_j5PfvUxt27q15ILNQ90CRFbd95MpZ8cNw3gmdLg/

Google docs *do* work, but not when you list every damn model, it gets WAY too long far too quickly.

[kingmustard]

2 hours ago, awesomegamer919 said:

Google docs *do* work, but not when you list every damn model, it gets WAY too long far too quickly.

It's only Tier 1.

[Dreeda]

9 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

Yeah I think that's a good idea.

However its not because the PSU is too weak its because its too old, so you'd be fine with another 550W though in better quality...

 

As for the PSU, how much is a be quiet Straight Power 11, bitfenix Whisper M?

I ended up looking at my PSU because clearly I had no idea what I had.

 

Picture attached but still :

Thermaltake TR2-500 420w/25A on 12v, 500 total, pretty sure the R9-390 needs 30A minimum on the 12v.

 

All the recommendations you guys made are 110/120, pretty much the same. Never heard of those brands tho lol.

 

 

Edit : annnnd it's in tier 7, o/.

Edit 2 : https://outervision.com/b/KAu49X It says it recommands 544w, could probably go for 650 for good measure, being 5-10$ more only.

[comicsansms]

6 hours ago, DirectNova said:

I ended up looking at my PSU because clearly I had no idea what I had.

 

Picture attached but still :

Thermaltake TR2-500 420w/25A on 12v, 500 total, pretty sure the R9-390 needs 30A minimum on the 12v.

 

All the recommendations you guys made are 110/120, pretty much the same. Never heard of those brands tho lol.

 

 

Edit : annnnd it's in tier 7, o/.

Edit 2 : https://outervision.com/b/KAu49X It says it recommands 544w, could probably go for 650 for good measure, being 5-10$ more only.

 

That PSU is just garbage. 

PSU calculators are a waste of space

A proper PSU only measures it's wattage by what it can output on the 12V rails

A PC with an Extreme Edition and a R9 290 (basically the same as a R9 390) only draws about 380W from the wall in load, so about 350W 12V DC.

 

I don't know what you mean by 110/120. Do you mean 120V, meaning that's what you need? If so, really every PSU (except for the really stupidly high wattage models - 1800W and so on, and garbage), support 120V and 240V. If you mean you need 240V, I've never seen a PC PSU that cannot accept 240V, (that said, I guess my sample size is baised, since I live in a 240V only country).

 

You just need a good 400W PSU, and you'll be fine.

 

[Rexper]

That PSU “calculator” is bogus. But we can still make use of it.

 

Plug in your GPU and storage devices to the calculator. Take the 12V rating only, and add measured average CPU power consumption + 20w.

In your case that’s 380W which is roughly inline with your systems max power consumption.

 

Absolutely no need for 650W unless you intend to overclock alot and/orupgrade to top-tier hardware.

[Stefan Payne]

10 hours ago, DirectNova said:

I ended up looking at my PSU because clearly I had no idea what I had.

 

Picture attached but still :

Thermaltake TR2-500 420w/25A on 12v, 500 total, pretty sure the R9-390 needs 30A minimum on the 12v.

Urgh, kill it with fire.

And PLS DO NOT USE THE PC WITH THAT PSU!

The Current Requirement are arbitary and not for the Card but the whole system and they don't calculate with good quality PSUs but with crappier, System Integrator level ones....

10 hours ago, DirectNova said:

All the recommendations you guys made are 110/120, pretty much the same. Never heard of those brands tho lol.

You heard of Xilence? LC-Power?? Kolink?

Be quiet?

Or newton power?

There are a couple of companys that are more on the regional side of things...

 

10 hours ago, DirectNova said:

Edit : annnnd it's in tier 7, o/.

Edit 2 : https://outervision.com/b/KAu49X It says it recommands 544w, could probably go for 650 for good measure, being 5-10$ more only.

a) And probably deservingly so.

b) Outervision is crap.

Calculate the following:
i7-3930K

RX480 (1330MHz, Power Color Red Devil)

4x or 8x DDR-3 SDRAM (2 and 4 GiB Sticks)

7200rpm 3,5" Drive

S-ATA Drive

4 Fans

 

And now look at what Outervision puts out.

 

My load on Prime + Heaven is around 350W. And I've used that system with a 400W PSU.

Outervision claims something like 550W or so and recommends a crappy 700W PSU...

[Stefan Payne]

4 hours ago, Rexper said:

Plug in your GPU and storage devices to the calculator.

No, only GPU.

Storage is calculated with Peak Consumption - when the Drive starts, wich is something like 2A on +12V for 3,5" Desktop drives.

So they calculate with 25-50W - wich is bullshit.

In reality they are in the area of 10W Primary (with PSU Losses and so on), the specification is usually something like 0,5A (+250mA) for +5V and +12V Rails.

I haven't seen a 3,5" SATA Drive that uses 3,3V (yet)..

 

Quote

Take the 12V rating only, and add measured average CPU power consumption + 20w.

In your case that’s 380W which is roughly inline with your systems max power consumption.

You could also use the CPU + GPU TDP and assume 80% Efficiency for the CPU VRM and use that.

That's also not too bad.

Or you assume like 25W for the Board. (50W or more was back in the day of the nForce shitset that were rather unreliable and specified for 45-50W TDP IIRC, at least the 590 was)

Quote

Absolutely no need for 650W unless you intend to overclock alot and/orupgrade to top-tier hardware.

Agreed.

 

That is something you'd want on the higher end of things or with two GPUs.

And also two CPU Sockets - wich most 650W don't come with anyway (yet)...

[Dreeda]

5 hours ago, Rexper said:

That PSU “calculator” is bogus. But we can still make use of it.

 

Plug in your GPU and storage devices to the calculator. Take the 12V rating only, and add measured average CPU power consumption + 20w.

In your case that’s 380W which is roughly inline with your systems max power consumption.

 

Absolutely no need for 650W unless you intend to overclock alot and/orupgrade to top-tier hardware.

110/120 is 110 to 120$ shipped to my address, sorry for the confusion.

 

I am still baffled by how much power consumption went down with the years, it's been 7+ years since I really put my nose into computer hardware specifics, the more you learn! I am glad I posted here and will look at PSU between 450/550w.

 

Lastly regarding my current PSU, should I realllly order one ASAP or it's already been 7 years, it can handle a couple months? I don't have tenant insurance o/

[VIVO-US]

5 hours ago, DirectNova said:

Lastly regarding my current PSU, should I realllly order one ASAP or it's already been 7 years, it can handle a couple months? I don't have tenant insurance o/

You mentioned you're getting shut downs and coil whine, so I would recommend upgrading as soon as possible.  Those noises and symptoms would indicate that something in your PSU is failing.  It might last a couple months, or it could blow out tomorrow.

[Rexper]

9 hours ago, Stefan Payne said:

No, only GPU.

Storage is calculated with Peak Consumption - when the Drive starts, wich is something like 2A on +12V for 3,5" Desktop drives.

Outvision calculates 9W on the 12V rail per SATA 7.2k HDD.

[split_]

Any thoughts for an EVGA P2 vs Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold? For an OCed 2600 / 1060 6gb build, just looking at safety and future-proofing for the next 5+ years at the very least. I can get the P2 a bit cheaper but I'm no sure about how much difference it'll make looking forward for compatibility purposes.

[orbitalbuzzsaw]

3 minutes ago, split_ said:

Any thoughts for an EVGA P2 vs Seasonic Prime Ultra Gold? For an OCed 2600 / 1060 6gb build, just looking at safety and future-proofing for the next 5+ years at the very least. I can get the P2 a bit cheaper but I'm no sure about how much difference it'll make looking forward for compatibility purposes.

P2 is the better of those units but I'd spend a bit less and get the G2 since for that rig you won't need Platinum unless you're running it 24/7

[split_]

Thanks for the advice and true that, I'll look around at prices. Weird that the G2/P2 would be more future-proof given their relative age.

[orbitalbuzzsaw]

9 minutes ago, split_ said:

Thanks for the advice and true that, I'll look around at prices. Weird that the G2/P2 would be more future-proof given their relative age.

They're still very good units, industry standard for most everything other than noise, though if you can find the RMx I'd go with that instead cause it's quieter and still extremely high quality

[Tristerin]

Never actually looked at this list - Tier 1 in my PC w/ FX 8350 Tier 2 Antec Earthwatts on my Ryzen 1700...I think I should swap PSU's lol

[Sky Yuki]

I still use Tier 7 FSP Hexa.
Bought it 5 years ago and still using it as good as new.
Tell me a reason why I should change to tier 1.

[GDRRiley]

6 minutes ago, Sky Yuki said:

I still use Tier 7 FSP Hexa.
Bought it 5 years ago and still using it as good as new.
Tell me a reason why I should change to tier 1.

you could kill every part.

like legit, a power surge or even just it failing could take out every single part in a flash with a bang and smoke

[MEC-777]

2 minutes ago, Sky Yuki said:

I still use Tier 7 FSP Hexa.
Bought it 5 years ago and still using it as good as new.
Tell me a reason why I should change to tier 1.

You like to live dangerously I see... 

[ray12]

hi everyone, is cm mwe 450 is ok to power an old i7 sandybridge + gtx960 ? for light gaming and office mostly. Mwe 450 is quite cheap in local store near me, im not sure about its durability though..

[GDRRiley]

2 minutes ago, ray12 said:

hi everyone, is cm mwe 450 is ok to power an old i7 sandybridge + gtx960 ? for light gaming and office mostly. Mwe 450 is quite cheap in local store near me, im not sure about its durability though..

should be ok, its is a T4.

[ray12]

39 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

should be ok, its is a T4.

Thanks for ur reply! Btw its the cheapest mwe not the bronze nor the gold one

[MEC-777]

9 hours ago, ray12 said:

hi everyone, is cm mwe 450 is ok to power an old i7 sandybridge + gtx960 ? for light gaming and office mostly. Mwe 450 is quite cheap in local store near me, im not sure about its durability though..

I would recommend changing it. It's a low-quality unit.

[VIVO-US]

9 hours ago, Sky Yuki said:

I still use Tier 7 FSP Hexa.
Bought it 5 years ago and still using it as good as new.
Tell me a reason why I should change to tier 1.

The FSP Hexa units are probably at the upper end of Tier 7.  In JohnnyGuru's tests, performance was pretty good with minor issues on 12V ripple and 3.3V regulation.  The problem is that many sub-standard components were used, mainly the capacitors.  The Teapo caps are pretty good (probably the best of the Chinese brands), but it also has some from CapXon, which are known to be lesser quality, and a few others from an unknown supplier.  The no-name caps tend to have low spec tolerance and a short life compared to the quality name brands, so they're always avoided in the quality power supplies.

 

The other issue is poor insulation between the PC board and metal housing.  If the housing gets a dent, there's a good chance the PSU will short out and make some nice fireworks.  If your unit is still working for you, then that's great, but the component choice and lack of attention to detail have earned these a low place in the Tier list.