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  1. For this one, you'll have to place spacers between the monitor and the VESA plate of the mount (the plate should rest on the spacers instead of the monitor itself). The spacers could be the plastic ones included with some mounts, a stack of washers, or even large nuts. With the spacers, you'll also need M4 bolts of the correct length to thread into the holes. The M4 thread size is common and cheap, so it should be possible to find bolts of the length needed at most hardware stores.
  2. That one would work just fine! For a 25" ultrawide, even one of the more standard VESA mounts with a 17" pole would be tall enough for it to rotate freely.
  3. It's more likely that there are more things to go wrong than there used to be (sort of like how a luxury edition car with lots of gadgets can have more problems than the base model). If things were still like the old days when you had separate cards for Wi-Fi, internet, sound and all that, the the number of complaints would likely be about the same as before. I've built a lot of our work computers over the past few years using mostly low end motherboards from Gigabyte and ASRock, and so far, all those boards are still working perfectly fine.
  4. Running both at 1080p would take care of the problem. The higher resolution monitor might just have a slight blurriness since it won't be pixel-perfect working at the lower resolution.
  5. Ok, I'd only done a few minutes of research to try and find where the terms came from, and what came up for me said DCI, so I went with that.
  6. So apparently, the term "2K" was created by DCI for 2048x1080 format, and when 4096x2160 was created, they called it "4K". Common 4K TVs don't actually match that resolution though, so the more correct term for them is UHD (ultra HD), but "4K" is easier to say for marketing purposes. And likewise, true "8K" should be 8192x4320, and what we know as "8K" (7680x4320) is actually UHDTV-2, but again, that's harder to say for marketing terms.
  7. If the monitors are different resolutions, the image will appear larger on the monitor with a lower resolution. You'll basically have to customize the wallpaper in photo editing software so one side matches the low resolution monitor, and the other side matches the high resolution monitor. It can be pretty tedious to get it just right though.
  8. If you'll be rotating the monitor from the standard landscape to portrait, just keep in mind that the stand will need to be tall enough to allow the rotation. For instance, if a 34" 21:9 monitor is used, the center of the mounting bracket will need to be about 19" high so the corner of the monitor doesn't hit the desk when rotating. If a 34" monitor will simply be staying in portrait, then the center of the mounting bracket will only need to be 16" or 17" high. If it needs to be free-standing, I'd suggest looking for one that's either extra tall or made to be standing height. Th
  9. A lot of VESA mounts include spacers and longer screws for mounting to recessed areas like this. If the one you get doesn't have those, you should still be able to get what you need from a hardware store.
  10. Panda (now part of BOE, one of the world's top LCD factories) is actually a very good display manufacturer. If the image is blurry no matter how things are adjusted, the problem is more likely the controller board Asus put into the monitor. We have a lot of Asus monitors here because of the low price, and in my experience, the cheaper monitors from them have some pretty bad display controllers. I've been able to get all of them looking nice, but on some, that actually required installing DVI to HDMI adapters due to poor operation over the HDMI connector. We used to be a replacem
  11. I know I've had to do more monitor tuning when using AMD/ATI graphics to get things looking right. There should be a whole control panel for your graphics settings as well as adjustments that can be made within the monitor to get the pixels lined up just right. There have been times when I was doing a bit of tune-up and maintenance on some of our PCs, and I've wondered how the user's eyes weren't bleeding with how bad some normally good monitors looked before adjustment...
  12. Thanks for the tips! I already have a simple controller on the way, but I might have to check into those if it doesn't work. Here are MSI's connectors:
  13. So, this is interesting! I hooked up a 5V power source to the +5V and GND, and then quickly shorted the +5 to the D pin multiple times to simulate a pulsing signal, and managed to activate some lights! I think I may actually be able to come up with some sort of work-around, so I'll just do some experimenting with that and see if I can make it work (maniacal laugh!!).
  14. Aaaaaaaaand, MSI's answer is that the controller isn't sold separately, and the only option is to buy a new motherboard or case with the compatible control system already built in. So at this point, if I can't find a work-around to control these, I'll probably just end up not using them at all. Oh well!
  15. Sorry, it's the F12A-3 fans. I was just going through those again and noticed that they offer them with and without a control hub. It would be great if I could just buy the hub, but can't seem to find it available anywhere. Maybe I'll contact them again and see if they do offer it as a separate product. Seems silly that they wouldn't have mentioned it when I contacted them before though.