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Heating Issues with the stock cooler!!

Aero10
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Hey Guys,

I just assembled my new PC with the processor Ryzen 3600. To manage my processor I installed Ryzen Master and then I noticed that the temperature of the processor on normal usage [Chrome, YouTube (720p)and watching offline videos (1080p/720p)] the  temperature of the processor crossed 60°C without playing any games!!

Andif I open the iCUE for customising my Corsair keyboard the temperature crosses 87°C. 

As the stock cooler that comes with AMD procesor has thermal paste pre-applied I didn't bother to buy any seperately.

What should I do to improve this situation!!

Can anyone help me out on this please!!!

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was the cooler mounted properly? or is PBO enabled?

Im with the mentaility of "IF IM NOT SURE IF ITS ENOUGH COOLING, GO OVERKILL"

 

CURRENT PC SPECS    

CPU             : Ryzen 5 3600 (Formerly Ryzen 3 1200)

GPU             : ASUS RX 580 Dual OC (Formerly ASUS GTX 1060 but it got corroded for some odd reasons)

GPU COOOER      : ID Cooling Frostflow 120 VGA (Stock cooler overheats even when undervolted :()

MOBO            : MSI B350m Bazooka

MEMORY          : Team Group Elite TUF DDR4 3600 Mhz CL 16
STORAGE         : Seagate Baracudda 1TB and Kingston SSD
PSU             : Thermaltake Lite power 550W (Gonna change soon as i dont trust this)
CASE            : Rakk Anyag Frost
CPU COOLER      : ID-Cooling SE 207
CASE FANS       : Mix of ID cooling fans, Corsair fans and Rakk Ounos (planned change to ID Cooling)
DISPLAY         : SpectrePro XTNS24 144hz Curved VA panel
MOUSE           : Logitech G603 Lightspeed
KEYBOARD        : Rakk Lam Ang

HEADSET         : Plantronics RIG 500HD

Kingston Hyper X Stinger

 

and a whole lot of LED everywhere(behind the monitor, behind the desk, behind the shelf of the PC mount and inside the case)

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i didn't use my amd stock cooler.

i got the Cryorig H7

Anything i've written between the * and * is not meant to be taken seriously.

keep in mind that helping with problems is hard if you aren't specific and detailed.

i'm also not a professional, (yet) so make sure to personally verify important information as i could be wrong.

 

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buy some good paste, or get a good AIO 

We can't Benchmark like we used to, but we have our ways. One trick is to shove more GPUs in your computer. Like the time I needed to NV-Link, because I needed a higher HeavenBench score, so I did an SLI, which is what they called NV-Link back in the day. So, I decided to put two GPUs in my computer, which was the style at the time. Now, to add another GPU to your computer, costs a new PSU. Now in those days PSUs said OCZ on them, "Gimme 750W OCZs for an SLI" you'd say. Now where were we? Oh yeah, the important thing was that I had two GPUs in my rig, which was the style at the time! They didn't have RGB PSUs at the time, because of the war. The only thing you could get was those big green ones. 

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1 hour ago, VioDuskar said:

or get a good AIO 

He doesn't need to go that far!

CPU:i7 9700k 5047.5Mhz All Cores Mobo: MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Edge AC, RAM:Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB 3200MHz DDR4 OC 3467Mhz GPU:MSI RTX 2070 ARMOR 8GB OC Storage:Samsung SSD 970 EVO NVMe M.2 250GB, 2x SSD ADATA PRO SP900 256GB, HDD WD CB 2TB, HDD GREEN 2TB PSU: Seasonic focus plus 750w Gold Display(s): 1st: LG 27UK650-W, 4K, IPS, HDR10, 10bit(8bit + A-FRC). 2nd: Samsung 24" LED Monitor (SE390), Cooling:Fazn CPU Cooler Aero 120T Push/pull Corsair ML PRO Fans Keyboard: Corsair K95 Platinum RGB mx Rapidfire Mouse:Razer Naga Chroma  Headset: Razer Kraken 7.1 Chroma Sound: Logitech X-540 5.1 Surround Sound Speaker Case: Modded Case Inverted, 5 intake 120mm, one exhaust 120mm.

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On 2/17/2019 at 1:07 AM, LukeSavenije said:

Credit to: @GoldenLag @TVwazhere @WoodenMarker @Stefan Payne @seon123 @fasauceome @Twilight @valdyrgramr @Jurrunio @AluminiumTech

 

This thread is meant to guide you through your build of choice, on a per part basis. we'll include some samples for reference.

 

To start, we recommend PCPartPicker to make the whole list together, where you can also see prices from selected retailers

 

Step 0: Guidelines

  Hide contents

make sure when you make a topic about this or ask a question here, it meets the guidelines

 

Step 1: CPU

  Reveal hidden contents

Tier F not recommended

Tier D daily use, not recommended for gaming

Tier C daily use and casual gaming

Tier B midrange gaming

Tier A high end gaming, light CAD

Tier S high end gaming, heavier CAD

 

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1MwVccMfh2ZhBMonsNFyAdI42B4dGDpROhIN5Bgniziw/edit?usp=drivesdk

 

Step 2: CPU Cooling

  Reveal hidden contents

 

Step 3: Motherboard

  Reveal hidden contents

Intel:

Tier D+: Basic pc, up to locked i5

Tier C+: low-end gaming: up to unlocked i5/locked i7

Tier B+: midrange gaming: up to unlocked i7

Tier A+: High-end gaming: up to unlocked i9

Tier S: Heavy overclocking: up to unlocked i9

Tier W: Workstation use: up to unlocked i9

 

AMD: check description

 

Step 4: Memory

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Step 5: Storage (SSD)

  Reveal hidden contents

@wpirobotbuilder did an article on storage, with ssd's included. It's older information, but still containts very important parts of the modern market

 

Step 6: Storage (HDD)

  Reveal hidden contents

@Blade of Grass did an article explaining the difference between HDD's from companies 

 

Step 7: Video Card

  Reveal hidden contents

Tier D+: Only if others don't fit/big sale, known to have bad cooling, be loud and/or have other problems

Tier C+: Value build, can be louder

Tier B+: High end build: best cards value to performance-wise, are great overclockers

Tier A: Best of the line cards, including hardcore overclocking cards like the Lightning, HOF and K|ngp|n

 

Step 8: Case

  Reveal hidden contents

Tier 1 - Best airflow, Good/Great Build Quality, Ease Of Use (Cable management, installation, etc). Suitable for any level of hardware

Fractal Design Meshify C, Meshify S2

Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG

Silverstone RL06

Coolermaster H500, H500p Mesh, H500M

Lian Li PC-O11 Air (beware restrictive dust filter)

 

Tier 2 - Good but not best in class airflow, Good/Great Build Quality, Ease of Use. Suitable for high end CPU's and high end Single Open Air GPU such as an i7/i9/R7 and a Vega64/1080ti/2080ti

Fractal Design Define S/Define R6/Define C

NZXT H700 (i version for NZXT fan hub and RGB lighting)

Corsair 460x/500D/570x

Thermaltake View 71

Phanteks Evolv X

Lian Li PC-O11D

Cooler Master Master Case Pro 5, MC500

 

Tier 3 - Good/Great airflow on a budget. (<$60usd) Might sacrifice some features like build quality, TG, RGB

Fractal Design Focus G

Phanteks P350x, P300

Cougar MX330

Cooler Master Master Box 5, K500, MB500, MB510L, MB511, MB511 RGB, q300l, q500l

Rosewill Spectra C100

Thermaltake Versa J22 Tempered Glass

 

Step 9: Power supply

  Reveal hidden contents

Tier A+ are all the PSUs that have overcurrent protection, undervoltage protection and every other protection you'd want, they have multirail on the 700w+ units, and are a great choice to pick with a higher end rig

 

Tier A - These PSUs are good units at a fair value, fall short against the higher tiers, but still perform great for most people.

 

Tier B - These PSUs are mid-range, they're not the greatest PSUs on the market but they're definitely not bad. They're usually good quality, and are good alternatives if prices are too high on a higher tier unit. Some units might have shorter lasting sleeve fans.

 

Tier C - These units fall short on some parts (regulation, fan, protection performance, other problems), but are good enough for basic use and a expectation to not last much longer than warranty goes

 

Tier D - These units fall short with heavy protection problems, have very poor regulation, are outdated or are literally firestarters. we don't recommend to buy them for ANY use

 

 

Step 10: Operating System

  Reveal hidden contents

You have 3 choices for operating systems. This includes: MacOS, Linux and Windows. They all have their pro's and con's and why they may or may not be up to the task for you.

 

MacOS:

+ polished, runs commercial software (MS Office/Adobe software), different desktop layout, integrates well with apple devices, software included (Pages, iMovie, etc), great gesture control, long support, fast patching, UNIX based, backed by apple, private

 

- resource heavy, no Proton, Wine is very limited, so gaming or other windows applications run poorly, a lot of addicional software is expensive, different desktop layout, only works officially with apple devices, closed source, hard to install on anything outside Apple

 

Linux:

+ free, many types, works well with Proton and Wine, a lot of them have free software included and have many other free alternatives, open source, Long-term and short term releases, customizable, have systems that look like Windows or MacOS, works on a lot of recent and older hardware, can be less resource heavy than MacOS or windows, great community support

 

- not always backed by a company, learning curve, not always stable, not all commercial software can be ran natively, bad gesture control, some games don't support Linux

 

Windows:

+ runs most commercial software, runs most games natively, widest used, backed by big company

 

- paid, not good with privacy, doesn't come with much software included, closed source, big target, not that stable, resource heavy

 

Step 10.1: Linux

  Reveal hidden contents

Distro's:

 

Manjaro: based on Arch

+ rolling release, GUI, 4 official and 7 community UI's (different installers)

- not that stable
Package Manager: pacman

 

Pop! OS: based on Ubuntu

+ GUI, many guides to find

- not that stable, only one UI, can break when removing certain parts

Package Manager: apt

 

Pop! OS LTS: based on Ubuntu

+ very stable, GUI, many guides to find

- gets updated every 6 months, only one UI, can break when removing certain parts, has problems with gaming

Package Manager: apt

 

Ubuntu: based on Debian

+ GUI, many guides to find, 10 UI's, owned by Canonical

- not that stable, some tools aren't updated

Package Manager: apt

 

Ubuntu LTS: based on Debian

+ very stable, GUI, many guides to find, 10 Ui's, owned by Canonical

- gets updated every 6 months, only one UI, some tools aren't updated, has problems with gaming

Package Manager: apt

 

Ubuntu Server: based on Debian

+ very stable, server features, owned by Canonical

- gets updated every 6 months, no GUI (can be added), some tools aren't updated

Package Manager: apt

 

Linux mint: based on Ubuntu LTS

+ GUI, many guides to find, good community forum

- had a major bug, has problems with gaming, gets updated every 6 months

Package Manager: apt

 

Fedora: based on RedHat

+ GUI, very stable

- lacks tools for video playback, has problems with gaming, gets updated every 6 months

Package manager: dnf/rpm

 

Redhat: based on RedHat

+ GUI, very stable, server features, owned by IBM

- paid, has problems with gaming

Package manager: dnf/rpm

 

Solus: based on project Solus

+ good steam integration, UI, stable rolling release

- not as many apps as bigger distro's, only 3 UI's

Package manager: eopkg

 

UI's:

 

Gnome 3:

+ stable, familiar for MacOS users

- heavy on resources

 

Cinnamon:

+ stable, familiar to Windows users

- heavy on resources

 

XFCE:

+ stable, can be customized to look like windows or macos, light on resources

- not as modern looking

 

KDE:

+ stable, familiar to windows users, can be customized to look like macos

- heavy on resources

 

Architect:

+ barebones, fully customisable, stable

- doesn't come with anything except a tui, manjaro only

 

Mate:

+ stable, light on resources, can be customized to look like windows or macos

- not as modern looking

 

Budgie:

+ stable, familiar for MacOS users, can be customised to resemble Windows GUI

- heavy on resources

 

more info on setup, enabling/fixing things in Linux and much more:

 

Step 10.2: Windows

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Step 10.3: MacOS:

  Reveal hidden contents

While it's technically possible to run MacOS on these PCs, compatibility is hard to set on the forehand, so we won't touch far on it

 

Step 11: Monitor

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added (we need help here)

 

Step 12: Extra fans, thermal compound, fan controllers

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Step 13: Networking

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Step 14: Sound

  Reveal hidden contents

@h264 answered a lot of the commonly asked questions about audio here

 

 

Step 15: Peripherals

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Step 16: reference builds

  Reveal hidden contents

to be added

 

Picture as banner

  Reveal hidden contents

20190222_163424-01.thumb.jpeg.990be6bbf614041e7811a29ac4f9d3b0.jpeg

by @seoz

 

 

16 hours ago, Vejnemojnen said:

A decent 25-30Eur air cooler will take care of it just fine. What is yout location @Aero10 ?

Well I live in India so I'd have to look for a cooler that's good around here!

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18 hours ago, Martin2132 said:

was the cooler mounted properly? or is PBO enabled?

No I haven't enabled the PBO yet.

This would probably be the 3rd boot!

I haven't done any major changes yet.

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18 hours ago, flashiling said:

i didn't use my amd stock cooler.

i got the Cryorig H7

But that would void the warranty!

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18 hours ago, VioDuskar said:

buy some good paste, or get a good AIO 

Well I'm considering it now...!?

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16 hours ago, Aero10 said:

But that would void the warranty!

wait, does using aftermarket cooker void warranty?

Im with the mentaility of "IF IM NOT SURE IF ITS ENOUGH COOLING, GO OVERKILL"

 

CURRENT PC SPECS    

CPU             : Ryzen 5 3600 (Formerly Ryzen 3 1200)

GPU             : ASUS RX 580 Dual OC (Formerly ASUS GTX 1060 but it got corroded for some odd reasons)

GPU COOOER      : ID Cooling Frostflow 120 VGA (Stock cooler overheats even when undervolted :()

MOBO            : MSI B350m Bazooka

MEMORY          : Team Group Elite TUF DDR4 3600 Mhz CL 16
STORAGE         : Seagate Baracudda 1TB and Kingston SSD
PSU             : Thermaltake Lite power 550W (Gonna change soon as i dont trust this)
CASE            : Rakk Anyag Frost
CPU COOLER      : ID-Cooling SE 207
CASE FANS       : Mix of ID cooling fans, Corsair fans and Rakk Ounos (planned change to ID Cooling)
DISPLAY         : SpectrePro XTNS24 144hz Curved VA panel
MOUSE           : Logitech G603 Lightspeed
KEYBOARD        : Rakk Lam Ang

HEADSET         : Plantronics RIG 500HD

Kingston Hyper X Stinger

 

and a whole lot of LED everywhere(behind the monitor, behind the desk, behind the shelf of the PC mount and inside the case)

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9 hours ago, Aero10 said:

But that would void the warranty!

no?

why would it??

i could be wrong but it seems super illogical to me 

Anything i've written between the * and * is not meant to be taken seriously.

keep in mind that helping with problems is hard if you aren't specific and detailed.

i'm also not a professional, (yet) so make sure to personally verify important information as i could be wrong.

 

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10 hours ago, Aero10 said:

No I haven't enabled the PBO yet.

This would probably be the 3rd boot!

I haven't done any major changes yet.

The stock cooler is pretty rubbish. Higher temps at idle don't really matter but keep an eye on it under load. Get something nicer and you're done. Given it's running warm already, don't enable PBO until you upgrade the cooling as it will only make it worse.

Main system: i9-7980XE, Asus X299 TUF mark 2, Noctua D15, Corsair Vengeance Pro 3200 3x 16GB 2R, RTX 3070, NZXT E850, GameMax Abyss, Samsung 980 Pro 2TB, Acer Predator XB241YU 24" 1440p 144Hz G-Sync + HP LP2475w 24" 1200p 60Hz wide gamut
Gaming laptop: Lenovo Legion 5, 5800H, RTX 3070, Kingston DDR4 3200C22 2x16GB 2Rx8, Kingston Fury Renegade 1TB + Crucial P1 1TB SSD, 165 Hz IPS 1080p G-Sync Compatible

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48 minutes ago, flashiling said:

no?

why would it??

i could be wrong but it seems super illogical to me 

I read it somewhere, it does!!!

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https://www.tomshardware.com/news/amd-clarifies-heatsinks-void-pib-warranties,36962.html

11 hours ago, Aero10 said:

But that would void the warranty!

no?

why would it??

i could be wrong but it seems super illogical to me 

Anything i've written between the * and * is not meant to be taken seriously.

keep in mind that helping with problems is hard if you aren't specific and detailed.

i'm also not a professional, (yet) so make sure to personally verify important information as i could be wrong.

 

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On 11/15/2019 at 5:24 AM, Aero10 said:

I read it somewhere, it does!!!

Please link the source that says this. 

 

Make sure the cooler is fully and evenly tightened. Have you tried reseating the cooler?

 

FYI, you can multiquote instead of making multiple posts.

If you ever need help with a build, read the following before posting: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/3061-build-plan-thread-recommendations-please-read-before-posting/
Also, make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

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I was curious what stock temps would be with my new 3600 so I gave the stock cooler a shot while I waited for my AM4 adapter to arrive. I did clean the thermal paste off and applied some NT-H1 I had sitting around from about a year ago.

 

Idle my temps sat around 40C with the fan curve I had set. 100pct fan I was sitting at  76-77C running kombuster cpu burner. No OC running, just stock settings.

 

I'd recommend new thermal paste. Also, how's your case ventilation? That could also be the culprit.

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