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Demonic Donut

Member
  • Content Count

    567
  • Joined

  • Last visited

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About Demonic Donut

  • Title
    Member

Profile Information

  • Location
    PNW, USA
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Computers, woodwork, nature/hiking, family
  • Occupation
    HVAC Technician

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 5 3600
  • Motherboard
    x570 Aorus Elite
  • RAM
    16gb G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 3600mhz
  • GPU
    Sapphire Pulse 5700XT w/ Morpheus Cooler
  • Case
    Corsair Carbide 400R
  • Storage
    970 Evo Plus 500gb, WD 500gb, WD 1TB
  • PSU
    CXm 550W
  • Display(s)
    Viotek GFT27DB
  • Cooling
    NH-D15 and too many case fans.
  • Keyboard
    Logitech G610
  • Mouse
    Logitech G400
  • Sound
    Earbuds
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

739 profile views
  1. Be sure to quote or @ someone to pop up in their notifications. Generally they spike because of some process, even moving a window or the mouse around. It's ryzen's aggressive boost that causes it. If only one core is being used it'll boost extremely high vs multiple cores being used. Not a bad thing for performance. You can try tuning the fan sensitivity so the spikes don't cause it.
  2. I mean, you're hitting it with an insanely heavy workload... I'm not all that surprised tbh. It's a big and high wattage chip, it's hard to cool. You're not going to get better without delidding and doing direct die cooling. You're basically at the limit of what the IHS can transfer and the water block can take away. If you aren't experiencing high temps during normal use, don't sweat it. If you think you have an airflow problem, take the side panel off and point a box fan at it and try again. But unless you're CPU temp (loop temp) steadily rises/gets too hi
  3. Just want to throw out Fan Control (available on this forum) is excellent and will control all fans, even most chipset fans, if you have one.
  4. I'd try what @thrasher_565 said first. You will likely see a slight increase in CPU temp, but I'm assuming you probably have more headroom there.
  5. That should work, it doesn't say you can't daisy chain them. Also assuming you don't go over the amp limit of the header. Most are one amp, so you'd be really close if that is your limit. I would also assume the wiring allows that and there aren't diodes in place. You can get a 5 pack of Arctic P12 fans for $30 US, but I'm not sure on pricing in your region. They are excellent fans for the price. You'd need a couple of splitters as well, so for me that would be about $40 US on Amazon. I'm not sure how set you are on those particular fans. But they are $20 each on Newegg for me.
  6. Zip ties are fine, but don't you have a PSU down there? Is it fully mesh on the bottom so it has a way for air to get in to the fan and into the GPU? A cooling focused case would be a good option, just more expensive.
  7. Ah, so you're talking a raspberry pi or something similar? Use clear nail polish to protect the board from condensation, brand etc doesn't matter, just nothing with glitter in it. Treat it like a conformal coating. You can try placing pieces of dry ice on the chip to cool it between OC runs. You could also dump a bunch inside of a cooler and place the board in it with a fan to circulate air and drop ambient temps really low. A small heatsink will really help in this case. I really like the alphacool finned copper heatsinks on Amazon. I was worried you were t
  8. I highly recommend a purpose built copper pot. You can't just set a piece of dry ice on the cpu and expect it to work well.
  9. RAM generally doesn't like to be too cold, same with some other components. You're better off with a dedicated pot for your CPU. I've never seen a system submerged in LN2. Also, dry ice is solid CO2, not nitrogen.
  10. Flipping to top intake lowered my CPU temp under load by almost 5 degrees, YMMV. What about modifying for a bottom intake? New cases have PSU shrouds that get in the way, not sure what it looks like under there.
  11. You can try placing the top front fan as intake instead of exhaust. It would help feed air to the CPU and could help direct more air to be pushed towards the GPU and out of the empty PCI slots due to the case being under positive pressure. Side panel fans aren't done much anymore, but customizing your case to add one would help a lot.
  12. One thing you can try before buying a cooling pad is to prop up the laptop and blow a fan towards the bottom of it. My wife's laptop runs a bit cooler if I just prop the rear of the chassis up with a pen etc to get it off of the desk. Not much, but a bit. The problem with most laptops cooling is that the cooler itself is the thermal bottleneck. So the CPU and GPU thermally throttle themselves to maintain temperature while the cooler does everything it can to remove heat. You would probably have the best results by disassembling, cleaning and then using liquid metal on t
  13. Have you played with fan curves? 45C idle is normal especially for cards that turn off their fans or turn them down very far. 85C is normal for load as well. If you think a fan might be dead, pull the side panel and watch the fans when the card is under load. You can download MSI Afterburner or Fan Control from this forum and manually control your fans. You can also disassemble, clean and repaste the cooler. Any decent thermal paste is fine. If you want a little more bang for your buck (assuming there isn't any aluminum on your cooler) you can use conformal
  14. I have a 5700xt and it is generally easy to stay above 100fps in demanding games at high settings, sometimes dropping a few settings to achieve what I want. Really a 6700xt is going to do great for you. But get the best thing you can afford. I would recommend water cooling. You're looking at at least $500 to do it and you'll gain next to nothing in performance vs spending 500 more on your GPU.
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