DevilsHand676

as long as you're not hitting 90c you're fine 

It's an AM3/AM3+ pinout looking at that video. 
 
Linus literally just did a video on that. Just write BestBuy and get your money back.
 

idk I've just seen some threads online, i don't have the game 
 

Id think most Games in a couple years, already seen today will be 8core aware.
Id go 3900x, 5700/5900xx series as a dropin in a few years if needing an upgrade.
Pretty sure both will Max a 2070Super in 99%cases.

Just because it is not being used doesn't mean you should turn it off. It exists specifically to offload not currently active tasks out of the ram so it can be used for the important active stuff. That is why setting it to auto is a good idea as it can self regulate the size then and be dynamic.

Each led will go up to around 50-60mA depending on brightness and color (full white will use more power) .. so do the math..10 leds = 0.5A,  20 leds = 1A , 60 leds = 3A etc etc
 
Should be more specific ... each color... red, green, blue typically peaks at around 20mA ... human eyes are more sensitive to red and red leds are more efficient so the peak on red will probably be around 15mA.
So depends on colors displayed by leds ... if two colors are mixed together (ex red and blue to get magenta or whatever) you'll get only 40ish mA per led.

You can check to see how much current it draws.
How long it is doesn't matter as long as it's less than 3A.

depends what games youre playing. Esports games would be playable off the integrated gpu but triple a games i would say would want a dedicated gpu 

I'm sure it happens from time to time but its good that you'd figured it out haha 

Also since I forgot to mention, the 24 fps standard was changed to 23.976 fps (24 / 1.001) when color film was invented (for some rather arcane technical reasons). People still call it "24 fps" though. The standard American refresh rates of 30, 60, and 120 are often changed by the same ratio, to 29.970, 59.940, and 119.880 Hz. Windows truncates numbers instead of rounding, so these will show up as 23, 29, 59, and 119 Hz in the menus.

Did you write this down somewhere else in the forums? So we can just throw links when similar questions pop up again

Nope, just here.

Standard for movies is 24 fps due to reasons back in the early film days, so all movies in the US are 24 fps.
 
60 Hz is the standard refresh rate for displays in the US because CRT displays used to use the frequency of the AC power from the electrical grid (which is 120 V 60 Hz) for synchronization. Europe standardized around 50 Hz for the same reason (and standardized around 25 fps for movies).
 
As the industry advanced, displays were made that did not rely on AC power frequency for synchronization, so they could choose other refresh rates. Many CRTs supported 72 Hz and 75 Hz, because it reduced the flickering effect that was visible at 60 Hz. 72 Hz was chosen because it is multiple of 24, for better compatibility with movies (just display each movie frame for exactly 3 refreshes, no complex gymnastics like 60 Hz requires to display 24 fps content). Likewise, 75 Hz is a multiple of 25 fps for europe.
 
Eventually we standardized around 120 Hz (5 × 24) and then 144 Hz (6 × 24).
 
In recent years manufacturers have stopped caring about multiples of 24 and 60, hence refresh rates like 165 Hz, which is just maxing out the available interfaces of the day (DisplayPort 1.2 in the case of 165 Hz).
 
As for why you have to choose from a dropdown menu; when monitors are connected, they send a file to the computer called the EDID, which is just a giant list of all the supported modes, as well as the name of the monitor and other things like that. Monitors explicitly list every single possible combination of resolution and refresh rate that they support, and those are the options that appear as options in Windows. And there are only a finite number of slots in the list, so they can't enter every refresh rate under the sun (and even if they could, no manufacturer would bother entering thousands of potential formats, 1080p 61 Hz, 1080p 62 Hz, 1080p 63 Hz... etc.). They just stick to the common standards.
 
However, the list is editable, so you can add whatever random refresh rate (or resolution) you want to it, and it will appear as an option in Windows. Just google for "how to set a custom resolution". But the hardware may be incapable of transmitting or displaying the format if you pick one too high, so you can't just enter 10000 Hz.

Intake radiator: higher GPU temps, lower CPU temps
Exhaust radiator: lower GPU temps, higher CPU temps
 
It's a minimal difference either way, I wouldn't worry about it. Just keep in mind a top mounted radiator doesn't always fit, due to the thickness of the radiator+fan(s) + RAM/motherboard cooling

don't use asus website for gpu drivers, use nvidia's website.
 
https://www.nvidia.com/en-us/geforce/drivers/

Vary cool, I'll be interested to see when its done with your water cooling you mentioned. Make sure to update! 

Wireless headphones arent as good as wireless headsets for gaming generally. There is more latency as well the fact they they generally aren't tuned or designed for the purpose in gaming to they generally lack in imaging and soundstage and with their build they would have to do a lot of DSP to get it to even sound like they had that and at that price point nobody but apple would do any DSP on their wireless headphones.

Currently I have Corsair hs70 but its not connecting to the dongle so they aren't working. I've contacted support but they're taking ages, which in fair they said it would take longer during this time. But in the mean time I don't have any audio. So I'm looking for a new pair of headphones around the 100 to 150 USD mark. Wireless is preferred and either no mic or a retractable one because I use a stand alone for that. I was looking at the Razer Nari (either the normal ones or the ultimate) but I've seen conflicting reviews however, YouTube people are saying theyre great but them forum people are saying they either suck or are just okay. I also looked around at stuff like top 10 headphones but they either seem to be super budget $50 ones or expensive $250 ones or earbuds which for some reason they include on the lists. I don't really know what makes a pair of headphones better than another. I just use them for my computer, so games, music, videos, other normal computer stuff. 
What headphones are you using? What would you recommend? 

As a hardcore gamer myself. I love audio because it is really important to get a good experience and hear the footsteps and everything. I like them for music of course as well. I use the dt 990 pros. I love them. The sound of them is fun. The treble is good and the bass is punchy. They have good soundstage because they are open back headphones. Now they are not wireless because I hate wireless headphones. Too much latency and it loses audio quality.
I would get the dt 990 pros, the dt 770 pros 80ohm or sennheiser hd6xx or something similar to those. These headphones have the best comfort ever and the greatest sound for the money. Just forget about "gaming" headsets. They offer cool looking headsets but aweful sound. That's a fact for 99 percent headsets.

Wow...wasn't expecting you to chop up your case, only pull the front panel off if it was removable to see what the difference in temps were.  Good to hear you figured it all out and saw some good improvements.

ya that case is noing to be crap...but your mod looks good!

I did something like this to my cheap acer front panel which had no ventilation to begin with.

pic from newegg
https://www.newegg.com/acer-aspire-atc-780a-ur12-student-home-office/p/N82E16883101530
 
 

lol its all good. I know the temps weren't that bad to begin with but really I was bored and anything I can do to improve my pc i'll do. The good news is the fans aren't "exposed" so to say because of the mesh filter that goes on the front panel, and I have it sit on my desk and my dog isn't able to jump that high, well really jump at all. 

Oh you poor thing, what has this monster done to you!?
 
It's great that you've decided to mod it, but in this case... I need to shit on your parade, sorry.
Your temps were fine IMO, they were far from being anywhere near critical. You didn't have to cut your front panel just to gain a few degrees... You likely could've achieved this by either dusting the PC up(which you probably did right before/after removing the parts of the case?) or by investing in higher cfm fans.
Or maybe even making a custom fan hole in the side panel to add an extra fan of your choosing. Like a 200mm one. Quiet and tons of airflow, perfect to reduce temps.
 
Now you just have exposed fan blades without any sort of protection. That PC is dangerous, I really hope you don't have kids or pets.

Alright so i've got the  Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L TUF mATX and was getting higher temps than I was okay with (like high 70s). So I thought my aio was just bad but then my boys @Semper  and @Corsair Nick on my other post said it was just garbo airflow and linked a Gamer Nexus video on how to fix it. Steve decided to drill bigger holes but I wanted to go a bit of a cleaner way so I took a dremel to the face. 
 
The whole process was pretty painless. I took everything out of the case including the front io (good thing it super simple because of the option to move it around). If you're going to try and re create this you need to make sure everything is out, you don't want any metal shavings to get onto the components. To outline the hole I was going to cut I just put the two front fans and outline it with some yellow chalk. Then I just took a hand dremel with some sort of spiny bit and went at it. Sparks flew like to lovers sharing their first kiss at the county fair. After getting them out I put some stone sandy bit on it to smooth out the edges so I didn't cut myself on accident. Make sure you hit that baby with an air compressor to get out any metal shavings. 
 
So now there are two fan sized holes in the front of my case that are as smooth as a baby's butt. But now the big question. What are the temps? I have the same fan setup and fan curves and I'm proud to say... they have gotten cooler. CPU is now maxing at 60C instead of the normal 70ish. The GPU has also gotten better maxing at 64C instead of high 70s to low 80s. Overall I'm seeing about a 10 degree improvement. Surprisingly the case hasn't really lost any structural integrity its still pretty solid. I would say if you have this case go ahead and cut that baby up like a butcher. I did this in a couple hours and it was my first time using a dremel but I think it came out pretty well.  
 
Imgur gallery with before and after: https://imgur.com/a/dekBNqu