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mariushm

Member
  • Content Count

    11,835
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About mariushm

  • Title
    Fanatic

Profile Information

  • Location
    Romania
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Freelancer

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RX 570 4 GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Microsft ComfortCurve 3000
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. Yes, AGESA is like a binary blob that's supplied by AMD to manufacturers and they need to include it in the bios unmodified. That AGESA increased in size with every new family/generation of processors added to it. The mobo makers design interface, icons, overvclocking menus, maybe training programs for memory, overclocking features for overclockers, add driver binary blobs for peripherals (for example onboard wireless) At some point, they reduced the AGESA size by removing support for the pre-zen based processors, those OEM only socket AM4 processors based on 28nm Bristol
  2. No, don't think so ... 4 phases to the left for cpu, 2 on top for integrated graphics/soic ... the ram stuff is by the 24pin atx connector usually. You could also tell by the designation, the printed code on the pcb ... group for vrm is PQ1024, PQ1034, PQ1044 and so on ... PQ10xx basically. The other group is PQ13xx. You could easily tell using a temperature sensor / infrared "gun" / whatever..
  3. The momentus cache program uses a portion of your ram to cache reads and writes before writing the data in background to the ssd. The benchmark application only uses 1 GB of data by default (reads up to 1 GB, writes up to 1 GB) so that little amount is easily kept in ram and you get those high scores. The risk with caching programs is that it may cache a bunch of stuff in ram just as you lose power and the data in ram is lost, so you'll get corrupted or incomplete files. With a laptop, as long as you have battery fallback, it should be pretty safe to use. disable
  4. In the end it all depends on the price difference between the processors. The 200 Mhz different doesn't matter that much ... you'll get more performance when/if premiere and whatever else you end up using starts multithreading and using the extra cores. The 2600 model comes with the low height / low thermal mass Wraith Stealth cooler ... it'd decent enough, good enough for the 2600... will keep it below 80c so it's fine. The 2700 model has the wraith spire cooler, which is beefier and larger, and cools a bit better. The VRM on the motherboard is somewhat
  5. Well, we have some issues here. 5 Amps at 120v AC means 600 watts ... so that means you'd need around 700-750w capable device The ability of a not-so power efficeint 2010s laptop ... well, look on the power adapter and see how much power it produces for the laptop. Chances are it's either a 65w adapter brick or maybe a 90-100 watts adapter. It would be fairly inefficient to use an inverter to boost your storage energy to 120v AC only to convert it back down to some voltage your laptop wants through its adapter / charger. So ideally, you'd use a car travel charger wh
  6. Yeah... it's not in CMD ... cmd is command prompt. It's a telnet server that sends you a stream of bytes which show up on your console as ascii drawings. You can use putty or anything else besides telnet to get this show up. also... probably not worth an actual thread, would be better on the sidebar.
  7. Make a bootable usb stick with memtest and test your ram sticks. test them both together and 1 at a time if you get errors run the sticks at lower frequency (ex 3000 mhz instead of 3600) or try increasing the latency to something like 18-20 and see if that changes anything. It's a mini ITX system so it should be fine, slots being so close together but who knows. The power supply should be fine, the pc shouldn't go over 300 watts or so when gaming. There were some issues with low power states, disabling some of those lowest c states could be a fix but i have doubts
  8. Eh , usb can do 5v at 0.9A ... it's fine. Most motherboards give up to 1-2A on a group of ports, so again, it's fine. ideally you'd use a step-up dc-dc converter to boost 5v to 5v..12v or even higher... but with the risk of damaging the fan. You can buy premade boards for 2-3$ if you have some electronic shops around and want to make your own, you could probably buy a regulator chip and the components you'd need for a couple dollars. *34063 or *33063 are some very cheap "jellybean" voltage regulator chips .. add inductor, diode, some ceramic capacitors and resisto
  9. If you install Windows on the SSD, you should install Steam on the SSD. You can then go in Steam and add a Steam library or folder or whatever is called, and select the old location on your hard drive. But if it was in Program Files or somewhere stupid, move it out from there and put it somewhere more convenient (ex d:\Games\Steam) because you may want to delete the old Program Files and Windows folders on your hard drive. Either right away or after you restart Steam, it will detect the games you had downloaded in that folder and they should all work fine. If some game
  10. Any Torx T20 screwdriver will work. AMD recommends around 1.5 newton meter / 13.3 in-lb of torque ... you may find a third party screwdriver or something with removable heads that can display the torque value... basically they want you to screw tight enough that all the pads on the cpu put enough pressure on the pins in the socket to make good contact. So I guess you can try tightening until you meet significant resistance, then if you get errors you may need to tighten a bit more...
  11. You could copy paste ... If I'm in a rush, I'd use teracopy or whatever allows multithreaded transfers to transfer multiple files at same time. At one point in the past, I even set up ftp server on the pc and have ftp server (filezilla ftp server can be set up in 5 minutes) and serve the original drive, and used a ftp client (filezilla ftp client is simple and fast) to "download" the files to the other drive, using up to 10 simultaneous transfers. a bonus is you'd see in the download queue which files failed to transfer over. In your case, since we're talking about b
  12. Not with that cpu... too low performance. You'll be better off having obs on the computer you play with.
  13. If there's no hardware encoder or Quicksync available to accelerate encoding, you can still use software encoding (x264) inside OBS or whatever you use to stream. The CPU is quite low performance, so you'd need to use low resolutions and presets for example 720p or 960x540 at 25-30fps with the ultrafast encoding presets should be doable. Of course, even this ultra fast preset would use the cpu, which means the actual game will have less cpu available for itself, but it all depends on the game you play or plan to stream... some don't use cpu a lot. For example a 2d chess, a game
  14. You can get riser cables and screw your card outside the motherboard footprint in those 4 empty locations. example : https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-CBRS_FL15-Degree-Adapter-Enthoo/dp/B0842BZDVK/ cheaper models : https://www.amazon.com/Riser-Express-Extension-Cable-Degree/dp/B08G42VN8S/ https://www.amazon.com/Extender-SinLoon-Flexible-Adapter-Ethereum/dp/B07BMTSVBM/ pci-e x1 riser cables are also available : https://www.amazon.com/ADT-Link-90Degree-Extension-R11SL-TL-Extender/dp/B07TBL53NB/ https://www.amazon.com/Timack-Express
  15. The patcher basically modifies a driver file to make it ignore the incorrect checksum (in the picture above, the bios in your card has the checksum 0x9A00 and your new bios has checksum 0xAF00) ... the checksum changes if the bios was modified in some way. So no, you shouldn't have to uninstall drivers or do anything.
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