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mariushm

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About mariushm

  • Title
    Fanatic

Profile Information

  • Location
    Romania
  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    Freelancer

System

  • CPU
    AMD FX-8320
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3
  • RAM
    16 GB DDR3 1600 Mhz Low Profile
  • GPU
    Gigabyte Aorus RX 570 4 GB GDDR5
  • Case
    Aerocool XPredator Black Edition (Full Tower)
  • Storage
    128GB Sandisk X400+4TB HGST-NAS+2TB-WD+1TB-WD
  • PSU
    Seasonic X-650 80+ Gold
  • Display(s)
    Samsung T240 (1920x1200 24") + Samsung 2494HM (1080p 24")
  • Cooling
    Zerotherm FZ-120 w/ Nexus RealSilent 120mm fan
  • Keyboard
    Logitech
  • Mouse
    Logitech MX518
  • Sound
    Logitech X-540 (5.1) + ALC889 onboard
  • Operating System
    Windows 7 Home Premium

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  1. You can buy passive DAC cables up to 7 meters, for example : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07LBKFNJ3/ or https://www.fs.com/de-en/products/39292.html If it's enough length then you'd basically save on two transceivers and fiber cable. The card is a form factor that's kinda proprietary to HP servers, you don't have a bracket to install it in a regular PC. You can get other models for around $35-50, here's for example a Solarflare SFN6122F card that's 35$ plus shipping : https://unixsurplus.com/solarflare-sfn6122f-dual-port-sfp-10gbe-pci-e-high-profile-server-adapter
  2. Ok, Ok, calm down everyone. Message received.
  3. So you can use SSDs with Windows XP - from Windows XP's point of view, it's a SATA device, just like a mechanical hard drive. Because Windows XP is not aware it's a SSD, it won't send the TRIM command from time to time, which is a command that tells the SSD it can do some internal cleanup and optimize some things that would improve performance of the SSD. So basically, if you write a lot of stuff on the SSD, as you write, there's some portions of the ssd memory which becomes unusable until some cleanup, so those memory areas are set aside, and as you keep writing, the ssd cont
  4. Each manufacturer uses their own naming. Often it's about what features the motherboard has for example v = vga connector on io shield , d = dvi connector or maybe displayport , h = hdmi , dp = displayport wifi is obvious , ac could be short for wifi .ac (5ghz) , ax could be wifi 6 Basically it's not a standard, not an absolute way of decoding some name.
  5. The wire is good for around 10-13 A of current. The pin and connector that goes into the power supply is rated for around 9A of current (~100w). Each individual molex connector is rated for maximum 5A of current ( 60w with 12v) but I'd suggest not going over around 30-35w. When a fan starts, it will pull more current than the average current used during operation. So, if your fan is advertised as 12v 0.275A ( 3.3w) estimate that it could take around 5w for 1-3 seconds when it starts spinning up then drop down to that 3.3w. So basically, as you say you have
  6. Make a 16-24 GB ram drive on the computer and save to the RAM drive and repeat the test. I use ImDisk Toolkit but there's other freeware applications that can do ram drives. At least this would take out of the equation the storage on one side. You shouldn't get you cpu saturated with this... try and see the cpu usage with just one link instead of two - could be the cpu usage is caused by the combination of data from both ports in memory or some other stuff related to using two connections. Also try using something smarter than Windows Explorer, like for example FastCopy -
  7. Yeah, it has wireless.... easiest would be to simply add a cheap wireless access point / router to your network. For example, this will do up to 300 mbps : https://www.newegg.com/netis-wf2409e-ieee-802-11b-g-n/p/N82E16833389086 You can probably find used wireless routers on old 2.4g router for 10$ or less. Here's an example : https://www.ebay.com/itm/363495074235 You can use USB to ethernet adapters but you should look for one with usb type a connector (the regular plug that goes in the normal blue connectors) ... usb ethernet adapters are fine, but they're not as good
  8. It would help if we'd know exactly what mini PC you have, and maybe if you take some pictures of the board inside, to see what slots are available. Is there a miniPCIe slot or m.2 with pci-e lanes on the motherboard? You can get miniPCIe network cards : https://www.ebay.com/itm/153498365563 https://www.ebay.com/itm/402821205551 https://www.ebay.com/itm/194364858602 You can get m.2 ethernet cards : https://www.ebay.com/itm/114995240964 You can get m.2 to pci-e x4 adapter card, and then use a riser cable to a pci-e x1 e
  9. They're just fancy barrel jack connectors. I dig the hex metal bit on the back of the barrel jack. You'd start by figuring the inner diameter (ID) and the outer diameter and then you go to a distributor of electronic components like Digikey or Mouser or Newark/Farnell and find barrel connectors with thread lock. The most common barrel jack connectors have 5.5mm (0.217") outer diameter and 2.0mm/2.1mm/2.5mm inner diameter Here's a bunch of connectors with thread lock : https://www.digikey.com/short/1vf8c5zv And here's a bunch of plugs (with cable) with thread lock :
  10. While gaming, a 3090 would consume on average 300-350 watts. You CPU would consume around 50-100w, so in total let's say your system would consume 500 watts, which means one hour of playing games would record as 0.5 kWh on your meter. According to this website Florida's price for 1kWh in January 2021 was 0.12$ , so if you play 8 hours a day, your power bill will increase by 1$ (for every 8h)
  11. No, they're not responsible for bios switching. They're part of a voltage regulator, that's all. The regulator can be unstable without capacitors. The BIOS is normally powered from 5v stand-by/ IF the bios select switch is broken, that could prevent the bios from working. Check that slide switch make sure there's at least a contact for one bios. That motherboard has 3 bioses, one of them removable to be programmed outside in a programmer. See the picture below, and check the slide switch ... note the pinout of the slide switch is how i believe it would be wired, bu
  12. No. It's not a bandwidth issue. Audio data is not that big ... ex 24 bit audio, 192 kHz , stereo is 2 (channels ) x 192000 (samples per second) x 3 (bytes, 3 x 8 = 24 bit per sample) = 1,152,000 bytes per second or 1.1 MB/s. For 48 kHz, we're looking at 288,000 bytes per second or 280 KB/s And most people would use 16-24 bit 48kHz (there's little benefit to using 96 kHz or 192kHz) and maybe 5.1 ... that's 6 x 3 bytes x 48000 = 864,000 bytes/s USB 2 can do 480 mbps , so there's plenty of bandwidth. Decent USB DACs will have retimers so you wouldn't notice an
  13. Optical output means the audio chip sends the uncompressed digital audio over the optical cable to a receiver which may or may not have better DACs (digital to analogue converters) to convert the digital signal to analogue one, then amplify the signal to speakers or headphones. Basically, instead of using the DACs built into the chip (or separate DACs on the motherboard), you may be able to get better conversion inside a device further away from your computer. The inside of the computer can be noisy, with electric noise radiated by the cpu and video card VRMs into the air and through the
  14. Try adding your user to the security tab ... right click on the drive letter or the root folder that causes problems, properties, security ... hit edit and add your username and check the permissions (full control, modify, read/execute , list folders, read and write files etc) It should apply recursively to the folders inside the folder you set properties on. How it looks on windows 7 (should be similar in Windows 10) :
  15. Looking more at the picture, looks like the bios selection switch is messed with, and it also looks like the board was hit on the bottom right corner, and it's got some damage there. It's rare but not impossible for the board to have some traces in that area, and board being chewed there could have messed some traces.
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