mbryant

Well, looking at the date your computer displays, your BIOS battery might be empty. If you also have onboard graphics, it might take a couple of tries before it recognizes the PCI-e card and switches from 'onboard graphics' default settings to 'pci-e graphics'. Problem reoccurs when switching of the pc because then you reset the BIOS again.
The battery is usually a CR2032 3 volt battery, and is located to the right of your red circle.
 
But that's not the main problem. Your graphics card shouldn't switch off during use.
Check your pci-e power cabling in the PSU and GPU. You can also check if the second PCI-e slot works.
Next thing is to check GPU temperature, as it might be overheating. Run some benchmarks to see if it shuts down under load.

I have been having the same issue i fixed it by turning the mtu size down for my subinterface i set it 1400 but i would recomend that you experment with to find what work with you i would take you current and just step down little by little if you do not know how to set your mtu here is a quick guide 1. get to cmd or powershell as admin 1a. win 10 use the win key and x then click powershell (admin) 1b. win 7 win key type cmd then shift enter to run as admin 2.type netsh interface ipv4 show subinterface 3. find the Subinterface that you use going to be the one that has the most bytes in and out if you dont have any thing else like a nas or somthing 4.Type netsh interface ipv4 set subinterface “interface” mtu=MTUsize store=persistent just replace interface with the subinterface that you use and MTUsize with the size you would like just to let you know that you whant your mtu size equal across the board that means your isp, modem, router, switches, coumputers ect... if you call you isp they will most of the time just tell you what the mtu is. if the not comcast ;D if you have any more question pm me i might just reply if im not busy also most of the time the isp going to set the mtu to 1500 so that might be a place to start if you lower then that its just a matter of finding the right setting PLZ TAKE NOTE OF YOUR DEFAULT SETTING IF YOU MESS SOMTHING UP REVERT TO THAT SETTING.  

It's caused by hardware acceleration being enabled in your browser and is intended behaviour.
 
While you're watching a video in your browser the decoding is being offloaded from the CPU to the GPU. You then run a game on the GPU and it's still busy decoding the video which causes stuttering.
 
Solution: Disable hardware acceleration in your browser (NOT RECOMMENDED) or don't try to game and watch videos simultaneously.

The subs on these soundbars are bluetooth connected, So in theory if you buy a better sub and it has bluetooth capabilities, you should be able to pair it with the sound bar. There are ways to re-sync the sub it comes with, so I don't see why that would not work. But I have never tried it. That would be interesting to look into, I mean they do have wireless bluetooth rear speaker kits that you can buy to add on to these as well. So I would assume they are very expandable.

Check this out: https://www.lg.com/us/home-audio/lg-LAS475B-sound-bar I bought this from my local best buy. they had a display with 8 different sound bars set up. All in the $100-300 range, and this LG one sounded the best, and was cheaper then the Samsung one I was originally looking at. I would definitely get one of LG's soundbars. Just make sure it has a subwoofer (really any brand of soundbar needs a subwoofer, almost no bass in the bar speakers). They get pretty loud and have solid bass. I use it in my apartments living room with a 55" Samsung and have a pc hooked up out there as well for games and it sounds great. I have an older surround sound setup in my office, and to be honest I don't notice THAT much of a difference apart from having actual speakers behind me.

Consider taking a look at used audio gear. There are quite some old speakers out there that sound great and can be bought for little money. I've got a pair of B&Ws from the 80s and they sound fabulous. (that is, better than any soundbar) Combine them with a modern receiver/amp and there you go; an excellent audio system for little money.
 
soundbars are great for convenience though, and they take up less space.

Well, I'm gonna share a site that I was given to me by a friend a few months ago, who also went through this fat loss journey. (But his went from 415lbs to 230lbs, the extra weight at the end is muscle mass in his case)
http://physiqonomics.com/fat-loss/
It should help you understand a few things about "dieting" and what you may or may not have misconception on, without sugarcoating anything. (Just the first paragraph should let you figure that one out... It's legit though)
 
 
There's also this one
http://www.acaloriecounter.com/diet/
Which is similar but in a more compact format that lets you chose which section to view right away.
 
 
And no, they are not your typical "dieting" website that basically tells you to eat the garbage they were paid to promote and are overall just bags of lies like how "fat are bad for you" or "carbs will make you fat so eat this shit you've never heard of before" and other bullshit like that.
 

Total Daily Energy Expenditure, basically what you burn depending on your gender, age, weight, height, and activity level. There are many calculators out there.
 
Yeah I'd closely track the calories you ingest, watch out for the portion sizes. A lot of people undercount.

I never used a case with my note 4 because i almost never drop my phone. But i have dropped it once, and it cracked the camera glass. $4 later and 5 minutes of work and i put a new camera glass on. You can get a thin case but strong for these all glass phones which is what ill probably end up doing. I hate them generally though  But just have to find one i like. 
 
BTW my brother has broken 3 phones even with an otter box. If he wasnt in the PD i would get him a job at a testing facility for phones for durability testing cause he manages to go through a phone every 6 months

If you are looking for modern and more than two cores and at a relatively low price I think would be tough to reach, but look for 2012 15" unibody MacBook pros, if I remember right I think its a quad core and it allows light upgrades (ram, SSD) and the price should be where you are looking at (between $450-650).
This vid show tell you how much each MacBook pro is worth and which ones to avoid, because of common issues

-Moved to Laptops and Pre-Built Systems-

I think the reason the old Mac Pro towers command a hefty premium is due to the "Trashcan" Mac Pro released in 2013, which IIRC, is loathed by the professional community over its inability to be upgraded over time and laughably outdated specs by today's standards 

I'd really suggest upping the i5 to an i7. The 1060 is a good choice for the GPU. I'd also suggest going with 16GB of RAM. I know DDR4 is expensive right now but it's worth it. I know it might end up costing more in the end but it would be worth while. If you insist on the i5 then just up your RAM. 
 
My first system was built because I insisted on not waiting until I saved more and I wish I would have saved more instead of building it when I did. 

I like it, having Wi-Fi onboard is a nice touch. I love the choice of an M.2. Also having a semi-modular PSU will be excellent for cable management.

Depending on your preference on weight and GPU, you can get Yoga 730/720 15 with 1050 GPU for under 2kg. XPS 15 9575 also not bad. There are some 2 in 1s with dGPU

Lol wow I've been out of the loop for a while. Well then I suppose I'll be waiting until at least the holidays to upgrade! 

I would aim for Coffee Lake if you don't like Ryzen.

As a Spectrum customer myself with their Gigabit plan and having been a TWC customer for years before Spectrum bought them out I can say they're really good about usually delivery at or above what you pay for a good 95% of the time with the other 5% usually being very close to what you pay for. If you can afford the 400Mbps plan go with that but from what I've heard the 100Mbps plan is supposed to be upped to a 200Mbps plan in most areas sometime this year. They also don't charge for modem rentals either so that's always a plus

Ask an accountant who specializes in personal income tax if you want an answer you can rely on if/when the IRS comes calling.

https://www.irs.com/articles/tax-form-w2-instructions
 
From the IRS themselves:
Box 1: Wages, tips, other compensation ― This box must show the total taxable wages, tips, and other compensation (e.g., bonuses and group-term life insurance benefits) that the employee was paid during the year, before any payroll deductions.

then it won't post. so no...

The 7820X is actually very reasonably priced, at $500. You could save $30 here and there in the build. I assumed you'll use rebates, and that you didn't want a too flashy case.
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel - Core i7-7820X 3.6GHz 8-Core Processor  ($499.99 @ Amazon) 
CPU Cooler: Noctua - NH-D15 82.5 CFM CPU Cooler  ($89.88 @ OutletPC) 
Motherboard: ASRock - X299 Extreme4 ATX LGA2066 Motherboard  ($191.98 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($169.99 @ Newegg) 
Memory: Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory  ($169.99 @ Newegg) 
Storage: Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($127.89 @ OutletPC) 
Storage: Samsung - 850 EVO-Series 1TB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($289.99 @ B&H) 
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card  ($448.79 @ SuperBiiz) 
Case: Fractal Design - Define R5 Blackout Edition ATX Mid Tower Case  ($74.99 @ SuperBiiz) 
Power Supply: EVGA - SuperNOVA P2 650W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($85.98 @ Newegg) 
Total: $2149.47
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-12-22 19:38 EST-0500
 
Edit: there are actually some 1070 Ti cards for $460-470. Those will perform better in GPU limited scenarios. Puget has testing for that too. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/Adobe-Premiere-Pro-CC-2015-3-Pascal-GPU-Performance-840/

That would be the setting! Knock that sucker off and you're free to customise to your heart's content!

That would be why. Your Microsoft account syncs between PC's, just like Apple's iCloud does. If you sign out of your Microsoft account on one PC and use a local account, you can set individual wallpapers. There is potentially a way to have individual wallpapers whilst being signed into your account, but I am unsure of this method.

Thats really nice of you  maybe you could get him one of those water painting things where you use water to paint then it disappears after some time