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Show off your old and retro computer parts

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46 minutes ago, BrianTheElectrician said:

especially the bootup sequence of the old WD caviars.

ssssssppppppIIIIIIIINNNNNNNN. PAUSE FOR DRAMA!.Click click click CLUNK grinddddddddd

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I have laptop with intel celeron wich has pga socket. That laptop has 80gb hard drive and windows xp on it.

I also have PC wich has flopy disk reader.

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My old pcΒ didn't actually have a graphics card and i dind't even know until i opened it 8 years later. Counter strike would just run fine though.

The amd athlon do20201226_180742.thumb.jpg.7c1a43c7df30263a2c298d1a3177905c.jpge pentium and the core duo were just chilling in my relatives's not working pcs.

20210407_225101.jpg

20210407_225109.jpg

20210407_225126.jpg

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Ah, so that's why the 250W PSU broke.

It has been diagnosed with the capacitor plague.

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All the little ones for 12V to 5V and 3.3V are bulging/leaking.

The big ones are fine though.

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As for why I took it apart? I wanted the PSU switch.

elephants

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Be careful getting inside power supplies, the capacitors can hold charge for a while after being disconnected from power and that charge can be very harmful.

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Sometimes bad caps can be replaced with fresh ones and restore function of the device as long as nothing else was damaged along the way. I have several 200 to 250W Dell Pentium 3/4 era 20 pin power supplies that still work, I don't know why I didn't think to bring them with me but I don't think you'd have had room on the bike anyway!

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3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Be careful getting inside power supplies, the capacitors can hold charge for a while after being disconnected from power and that charge can be very harmful.

So I have heard. The PCB is weirdly shaped though and gives me about 2 inches of room near the plugs and switches.

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Sometimes bad caps can be replaced with fresh ones and restore function of the device as long as nothing else was damaged along the way.

I would try and do it but my soldering skills are 5 points above nothing.

I am going to be doing a lot of it this month in class though.

4 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I have several 200 to 250W Dell Pentium 3/4 era 20 pin power supplies that still work, I don't know why I didn't think to bring them with me but I don't think you'd have had room on the bike anyway!

I very much did not. As it is, the only thing keeping them on was the bungee cord you gave me.

Thanks for that, by the way.

elephants

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Hey guys!

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Does one this count?

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From 2001

IntelΒ PentiumΒ 4 3.06 GHz, 512K Cache, 533 MHz FSB

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I have a lot more stuff, newer and older. I'll get some pics and share with you guys!

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IMG_20210410_161741.jpg

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 @ 3.6GHz | Motherboard:Β MSI B450M PRO-VDH Max | RAM:Β G.SKILL Aegis 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4-3200MHz CL16 |Β GPU:Β Zotac Gaming GeForce RTX 3060 12GB GDDR6 Twin Edge OC | Case: Nox Infinity Omega RGB | Storage: 1x KIOXIA Exceria 500GB 3D TLC NVMe, 1x Toshiba 500GB & 1x WD 640GB SATAΒ & 1x Samsung SpinPoint T166 @ 3Gb/s |Β PSU:Β Nox Urano VX 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Edition | Display:Β AOC 27B2H |Β Cooling: Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML120L V2 RGB, 1x 120mm NOX Infinity 1200rpm RGB |Β OS:Β Windows 10 Pro |Β Laptop: MSI GL65 9SDK

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There was a "slot" at the bottom of the P4C800-E Deluxe that mystified me. Looked kinda like a PDS slot from a really old Mac, but was marked "WiFi".

So I went on a hunt and found that it was for a WiFi card that ASUS sold.

Problem is, ASUS gave it the most ambiguous name ever "WiFi module" meaning that I only found it in a bundle on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-P4P800-E-Deluxe-478-Socket-CPU-RAM-SOUND-WIFI-ASUS-Board/284129431601?hash=item42276f1031:g:CwwAAOSwCB5f6SBE
The part number marked on it is useless, Googling "ASUS WiFi@Home" brings back nothing helpful, and I can't find any other names to call it by.

@BitterΒ did you ever have this thing, or is it another casualty of the Internet?

elephants

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3 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

There was a "slot" at the bottom of the P4C800-E Deluxe that mystified me. Looked kinda like a PDS slot from a really old Mac, but was marked "WiFi".

So I went on a hunt and found that it was for a WiFi card that ASUS sold.

Problem is, ASUS gave it the most ambiguous name ever "WiFi module" meaning that I only found it in a bundle on eBay:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Asus-P4P800-E-Deluxe-478-Socket-CPU-RAM-SOUND-WIFI-ASUS-Board/284129431601?hash=item42276f1031:g:CwwAAOSwCB5f6SBE
The part number marked on it is useless, Googling "ASUS WiFi@Home" brings back nothing helpful, and I can't find any other names to call it by.

@BitterΒ did you ever have this thing, or is it another casualty of the Internet?

Those WiFi modules are damn near impossible to find, the fact that you found a complete board with it is insane.

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Still way more easy to find than the PCI riser for my 170L, which is sad when you think about it.

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

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Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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I went to look in the basement for a Zip drive faceplate to do test cutting on, and I saw my 486 build that I threw together one night during winter break and left because it didn't boot and didn't do any troubleshooting because I had other things I wanted to do.

And I found this!

Spoiler

20210410_194317.thumb.jpg.12cefbddd4f0e101f5bcaa61d497d4c5.jpg20210410_194323.thumb.jpg.ebd8c7d69562806bb22c3470911c8633.jpg

Panasonic JU-257A606PΒ 
Mitsumi CRMC-FX410A

5.25" to 3.5" bay adapter (for practice cutting)

I have no idea if the Mitsumi drive is a burner, but I don't find it likely. It says Class 1 laser.

elephants

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17 hours ago, FakeKGB said:

Ah, so that's why the 250W PSU broke.

It has been diagnosed with the capacitor plague.

Β 

All the little ones for 12V to 5V and 3.3V are bulging/leaking.

The big ones are fine though.

Β 

As for why I took it apart? I wanted the PSU switch.

Ah yes the capacitor plague. If you're going to be doing lots of soldering in class maybe your teacher would let you bring in the supply to recap it. As Bitter said, be careful with the caps and make sure they're discharged before you go at it.

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For replacements, make sure to use the same capacitance ie replace 1000uf with 1000uf. You can use capacitors rated at or above the original voltages though so can replace a 25v capacitor with a 50v one. The voltage ratings are maximums, capacitors will store the voltage that is applied to them.

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If you've already stripped it is probably not worth trying to get back together but if you haven't used the parts from it yet it would be a good practical project to get soldering experience on.

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And something relatively easy to test for function when you're done with it and somewhat more simple to diagnose than say a computer motherboard.

Even if it is torn down it would still be a good board to practice soldering. I'm not the best at soldering but I do alright with just a little off and on practice. The best practice I got though was building this with a budget soldering station.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y44CJ4B Christmas tree kit

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-937D-Soldering-Station-Adjustable/dp/B00NILZNDC/ seems to be out of stock, maybe someone can suggest something similarly good for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z7Y7XM/ After years of desoldering things without solder wick I finally got some and yes I should have had this years ago.

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A tip cleaner and some tip tinner is a good thing to have as well and makes soldering less frustrating. I use the soldering station for smaller work and I have a nearly antique Weller D440 100/150W soldering gun for bigger stuff with a heavy chisel tip on it. I can tin 6ga welding cable with that monster!

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Also, if you have a well ventilated work area don't be too worried about lead/tin solder. You'll run across it repairing older electronics, it's not going to kill you, but you should be using lead/tin on older stuff since that's what's already on there. It really does flow nicer, it's what I use. Just you like don't huff the fumes.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

And something relatively easy to test for function when you're done with it and somewhat more simple to diagnose than say a computer motherboard.

Even if it is torn down it would still be a good board to practice soldering. I'm not the best at soldering but I do alright with just a little off and on practice. The best practice I got though was building this with a budget soldering station.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y44CJ4B Christmas tree kit

https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-937D-Soldering-Station-Adjustable/dp/B00NILZNDC/ seems to be out of stock, maybe someone can suggest something similarly good for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Z7Y7XM/ After years of desoldering things without solder wick I finally got some and yes I should have had this years ago.

Β 

A tip cleaner and some tip tinner is a good thing to have as well and makes soldering less frustrating. I use the soldering station for smaller work and I have a nearly antique Weller D440 100/150W soldering gun for bigger stuff with a heavy chisel tip on it. I can tin 6ga welding cable with that monster!

Β 

Also, if you have a well ventilated work area don't be too worried about lead/tin solder. You'll run across it repairing older electronics, it's not going to kill you, but you should be using lead/tin on older stuff since that's what's already on there. It really does flow nicer, it's what I use. Just you like don't huff the fumes.

Testing atx power supplies isn't hard. If I'm not mistaken you ground the green wire in the 20/24 pin connector to turn it on and then can use a multimeter to check your voltages. They won't be exact with no load but should be close. Yellow should be 12v, red is 5v and orange 3.3v. I think purple (not 100% on this) is the power good signal and should show 5v once the psu thinks the voltages are good.

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Capacitors are polarity sensitive too, at least the electrolytic ones that would be needing to be replaced are. Pay attention to where the stripe is on the case.

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I've just got a cheap little 40e soldering station and that does well enough for most of my electronics but I do definitely want to pickup a better adjustable one. I have a couple old soldering guns too, my biggest is a 240/300w monster that was given to me when I was 10 or so. High doesn't work but 240w works great. I use it mainly to solder my crimps on at work or solder/heatshrink wires instead of using butt crimps. With smaller wires it's a matter of seconds before the gun and wire are hot enough to solder, and I can do uch larger stuff too. Pretty sure I even did a battery cable with it once though that did take a bit to get hot enough.

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I dont have solder wick but really should. I do have one of those spring loaded solder suckers that works ok but not perfect. Leaded solder is the best to use too honestly. The lead free stuff tends to crack over time.

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8 hours ago, BrianTheElectrician said:

Ah yes the capacitor plague. If you're going to be doing lots of soldering in class maybe your teacher would let you bring in the supply to recap it. As Bitter said, be careful with the caps and make sure they're discharged before you go at it.

I tossed it after getting the PSU switch from it (it smelled weird and my dad wanted it gone) but otherwise I would have kept it - made for a great tester PSU for Molex and floppy cables.

I'm currently using the PSU from my Minecraft server since it's acting weird, and I've had it off since I don't have the time to troubleshoot it right now.

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elephants

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2 hours ago, FakeKGB said:

I tossed it after getting the PSU switch from it (it smelled weird and my dad wanted it gone) but otherwise I would have kept it - made for a great tester PSU for Molex and floppy cables.

I'm currently using the PSU from my Minecraft server since it's acting weird, and I've had it off since I don't have the time to troubleshoot it right now.

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Ah ok.

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If you want I could host your server until you get yours sorted. I have an extra machine sitting in my rack unused and have another empty case I can build in yet.

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6 minutes ago, BrianTheElectrician said:

Ah ok.

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If you want I could host your server until you get yours sorted. I have an extra machine sitting in my rack unused and have another empty case I can build in yet.

Nah, it's fine. A total of 3 or 4 people have the IP (me, a friend, and two forum-goers) and it hasn't had traffic in awhile.
Plus school.

elephants

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What kind of hardware/bandwidth does a minecraft server need anyway?

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22 minutes ago, Bitter said:

What kind of hardware/bandwidth does a minecraft server need anyway?

Decent CPU (especially if you're trying to use vanilla without something like Paper) and RAM capacity but fuckall bandwidth. My server's got a G3258 at 4.2 and it doesΒ fineΒ with older modpacks (like 1.14 and earlier), but 1.15 and 1.16 NEED Paper or it can't even handle one person with a server render distance of 6.

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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On 12/19/2013 at 9:25 PM, TheTechnerd said:

Β Today I thought we would do something fun and different. This is a topic about showing of all your old pc parts (or old computers). Feel free to post some pics:) It will be fun:D

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Here's some of mine:

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20131219_215248_edited.jpg

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Kingston Hyperx DDR2 2GB 1066MHz

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20131219_221706_edited.jpg

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Intel core 2 duo 2.2 GHz

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20131219_220612_edited.jpg

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Intel core 2 duo 2.2 GHz backside

Sheeeeeeeeesh bet man can run minecraft with shaders XD

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36 minutes ago, flibberdipper said:

Decent CPU (especially if you're trying to use vanilla without something like Paper) and RAM capacity but fuckall bandwidth. My server's got a G3258 at 4.2 and it doesΒ fineΒ with older modpacks (like 1.14 and earlier), but 1.15 and 1.16 NEED Paper or it can't even handle one person with a server render distance of 6.

Now once more for the old folks in the room?

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46 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Now once more for the old folks in the room?

uhhhhhhh

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A Q6600 will probably shit its pants profusely trying to run a server. I think that brings it back far enough.

I couldΒ technically do a temporary Windows install on my laptop since the i5 580M is just a smidge faster than a Q6600, however I am a lazy piece of garbage so that won't be happening.

Main rig on profile

VAULT - File Server

Spoiler

Intel Core i5 11400 w/ Shadow Rock LP, 2x16GB SP GAMING 3200MHz CL16, ASUS PRIME Z590-A, 2x LSI 9211-8i, Fractal Define 7, 256GB Team MP33, 3x 6TB WD Red Pro (general storage), 3x 1TB Seagate Barracuda (dumping ground), 3x 8TB WD White-Label (Plex) (all 3 arrays in their respective Windows Parity storage spaces), Corsair RM750x, Windows 11 Education

Sleeper HP Pavilion A6137C

Spoiler

Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.4GHz, 4x8GB G.SKILL Ares 1800MHz CL10, ASUS Z170M-E D3, 128GB Team MP33, 1TB Seagate Barracuda, 320GB Samsung Spinpoint (for video capture), MSI GTX 970 100ME, EVGA 650G1, Windows 10 Pro

Mac Mini (Late 2020)

Spoiler

Apple M1, 8GB RAM, 256GB, macOS Sonoma

Consoles: Softmodded 1.4 Xbox w/ 500GB HDD, Xbox 360 Elite 120GB Falcon, XB1X w/2TB MX500, Xbox Series X, PS1 1001, PS2 Slim 70000 w/ FreeMcBoot, PS4 Pro 7015B 1TB (retired), PS5 Digital, Nintendo Switch OLED, Nintendo Wii RVL-001 (black)

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