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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

Criiiiii, my front bumper is loose. Considering that about three weeks ago, I had a timing belt change so maybe they didn't secure my bumper correctly? 

 

Regardless, at least I now know why there's a slight flapping/banging noise when I'm on the motorway and why I'm scraping my bumper even more on speed bumps. 

Looking at my signature are we now? Well too bad there's nothing here...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

What? As I said, there seriously is nothing here :) 

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Forged engine update! Had to take a picture of the cleaned crank, once all that protective wax is cleaned off the super shiny journals show through!

 

1043377913_image1(1).jpeg.181a97e4926b708ebf3aafd1ddd47ab1.jpeg

 

And I got the rotating assembly put together. .017" top ring gap and .019" second ring. Main bearings have .0013" clearance, rod bearings have .0015" clearance. A little loose compared to factory new (still within standards) but this motor is going to make a lot more power than factory. I will end up using 5W-40 oil anyway so it shouldn't be a problem. My Wiseco tapered ring compressor came in very handy, did not have a single worry installing the pistons compared to those 'universal' ring compressors.

1677694610_image2(1).jpeg.ac2bebf231f733e5a501710126a28610.jpegC1CA4359-AF2A-4339-8D14-7CD693215464.thumb.JPG.c5fc06f4dbbe179fb336fb7978fde0c7.JPG

 

Everything spins freely and is within spec! I dropped off the head at Scroggins this morning, forgot to bring the cam caps smh so they have to wait a little longer.  Still about $700 worth of parts to buy for this motor but it's coming along :)

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25 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

Forged engine update! Had to take a picture of the cleaned crank, once all that protective wax is cleaned off the super shiny journals show through!

 

 

 

And I got the rotating assembly put together. .017" top ring gap and .019" second ring. Main bearings have .0013" clearance, rod bearings have .0015" clearance. A little loose compared to factory new (still within standards) but this motor is going to make a lot more power than factory. I will end up using 5W-40 oil anyway so it shouldn't be a problem. My Wiseco tapered ring compressor came in very handy, did not have a single worry installing the pistons compared to those 'universal' ring compressors.

 

 

Everything spins freely and is within spec! I dropped off the head at Scroggins this morning, forgot to bring the cam caps smh so they have to wait a little longer.  Still about $700 worth of parts to buy for this motor but it's coming along :)

so never buy anything other than a *real* piston ring compressor made for the job you're doing. 

 

got it.

 

 

looking good. Shouldn't be much left if they are doing most of the head work for you :D (other than well.. all the details... and putting it in the car xD) 

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

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22 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

so never buy anything other than a *real* piston ring compressor made for the job you're doing. 

 

got it.

 

 

looking good. Shouldn't be much left if they are doing most of the head work for you :D (other than well.. all the details... and putting it in the car xD) 

Yep. I originally wanted it cleaned and decked, but he told me it was okay to use the stock valves in my application so I went ahead and ordered a valve job too. I will use stock springs for now but I will eventually install heavier springs when I boost it, maybe SUB lifters but I'm not raising the redline any more than 7K or using a larger oil pump. These rods supposedly hold 750hp so I'm not afraid to let boost hit early especially with an EFR 6258/6758 (deciding atm).

 

What I'm really worried about is my trans and diff and how long it will hold 300-350hp -_-

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4 minutes ago, byalexandr said:

Yep. I originally wanted it cleaned and decked, but he told me it was okay to use the stock valves in my application so I went ahead and ordered a valve job too. I will use stock springs for now but I will eventually install heavier springs when I boost it, maybe SUB lifters but I'm not raising the redline any more than 7K or using a larger oil pump. These rods supposedly hold 750hp so I'm not afraid to let boost hit early especially with an EFR 6258/6758 (deciding atm).

 

What I'm really worried about is my trans and diff and how long it will hold 300-350hp -_-

be careful with 4th gear. thats the weakest point of the 6 speed trans

 

the diff.. I'd get some better mounts than OEM for sure. Maybe get that kit that reinforces where they notch it out.. I believe the diff itself can take a lot it just tends to move around a lot and also that notch they cut out for safety if you get rear ended becomes a weak point

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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25 minutes ago, bimmerman said:

20190504_103438_HDR.jpg

 

Damn son, gimme some of that

"an obvious supporter of privacy"

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2 hours ago, vinyldash303 said:

You need a proper alignment. A lot of the time shops will ‘toe and go’ and not look at camber and caster. Toe has the largest amount of effect on how tires wear but you need the whole lot looked at. Have them do a suspension inspection too. Worn out bushings and joints can also fuck up your tires 

None of that should be an issue on a 23k mike car though.

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On 5/12/2019 at 10:27 PM, terrytek said:

you could've gone GTI or even golf R, but i guess you wanted to stay within the family?

German cars are nice to admire from a distance for me but not to own.  I'd consider a Porsche, but not a standard VW.  BMW M cars would make the cut, along with Audi S7 or RS6.

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23 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Why did so many GM cars have (or still have?) transmission issues? 

The GranPrix GTP has a glass transmission barely adequate for the job, and it was easy for people to change the supercharger pulley to increase boost.  The extra torque was just too much for the 4T60 and 4T65s.

 

Its also the first generation of Electronic slush boxes so it's prone to poor valve body and solenoid design.  GM's 700r4 which became the 4L60E was also prone to failure behind modified V8s.

 

Basically, the transmissions were adequate for the service life of a stock car if you maintained them.  If you failed to maintain them, OR modified the power output they just couldn't reliably handle it.

 

The biggest killer of these transmissions is people who NEVER change the fluid.  It turns into a black sludge over time.  So when they start slipping or acting funny people have them flushed which just breaks the sludge up and sends it through the transmission causing the already failing transmission to self destruct. Its why car guys have that adage where the transmission fluid has never been changed, you do not touch it.  You just pray to it every night for one more mile.

 

On a neglected high mileage transmission you never do a full FLUSH.  You do need to change the fluid, but you do it gradually by draining the pan and replacing the filter only.  This way you only replace some of the fluid.  The new fluids detergents start to break down sludge/varnish.  You repeat this process every 1-2 months for as long as it takes for the fluid to remain pink and fresh looking.   At that point you just change the fluid annually and the transmission will last as long as it can after a harsh life.

 

Unless the manual states "Fill for life" (which is a lie). You should change the fluid every 30,000 miles.  If its fill for life, you should probably change it every 50k.  Fluid breaks down and loses its ability to protect components under high heat loads.  Stop N Go is nasty on a transmission since the torque converter is constantly slipping.  Slipping TC's make heat.

 

Transmission fluid does not like going over 180°F for extended periods.  Road Racing, Towing, extensive stop n' go will all cause that temperature to soar and accelerate break-down.

 

Home PC: Apple M1 Mini, 16gb, 1TB, 10Gig-E.  Adobe CC and Ripping things + Daily stuff.

Gaming PC: Ryzen 7 5800x, 32GB, Nvidia RTX 3080Ti stuffed into a Corsair 380T.

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Toys:

2017 Focus RS | Frozen White | Daily Driver

1989 Pontiac TransAm | GM Triple White | Heads/Cammed LT1 + T56 swap | Suspension goodies up the wazoo. | HPDE Weekend Warrior toy.

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12 minutes ago, Thirdgen89GTA said:

-snip-

It still baffles me that there was a time in the 2000s that we threw mediocre 4-speed automatics onto V8s intended for performance cars. Like WHAT made us think it was a good idea on any objective?

Check out my guide on how to scan cover art here!

Local asshole and 6th generation console enthusiast.

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man I've really been wanting a Pontiac G8 with even just the V6 because I feel like I could play around with it if I wanted to maybe some sorta turbo set up, I don't think I could really tune it much but at least slapping a turbo or two on it and upgrading exhaust and what not and calling it a day might be enough for me.
Unless getting a LS3 with an auto trans would be worth it if not expensive to make my own G8 GXP.

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We've got an 84 300ZX at the shop with a 'no spark' problem, that digital dash is pretty cool.

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Opinions on the "tuners can do this and that" approach for the new Supra?

my opinion is worthless but i'm going to give it anyway because this is the internet

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3 minutes ago, Azerafel said:

Opinions on the "tuners can do this and that" approach for the new Supra?

great but after you're done tuning the car to you're liking it'll be $100k+ probably.

Just too expensive for the average person

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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56 minutes ago, vinyldash303 said:

Run over enough curbs and you can for sure jack up your alignment

or you know, hit a big enough pothole and shear your control arm straight off

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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1 hour ago, vinyldash303 said:

I don't know how people manage to screw up alignments so bad. I had the S10 aligned once right when I got it at 130,000 miles. It never drifted from where it was set at all. I did have them give it some more negative camber when it got its new tires so it wouldn't burn off the outside edges like it had been with zero degrees either way. -0.8* seems to be perfect. Sold it to GF at 197k and you know what? Alignment it still dead right where it was set.

this happened last time I got the miata aligned. Its been like perfect ever since.

I mostly just haven't aligned it again because I want to replace all the suspension lol

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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I'm sort of tempted to buy this for probably a few hundred dollars and then drive it all the way home xD
https://www.copart.com/lot/35528859

 

edit: since its in Cali it would require a broker which makes it more expensive than it needs to be so nahhh

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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So I'm always banging the drums in my crusade against cheap tools, and today my drive got even stronger.

 

Four or five years ago I was gifted a set of Krutch (Northern Tool, china) impact sockets and have hated them ever since I first used them. When used with a reasonably strong impact, they flex and lock the fastener in and you have to put the socket in a vise and beat the fastener out. I hate them with all the fiery passion I can muster. 

 

Welp, today I was at my desk not getting a whole lot done and thinking about how those suck, so I ordered a new set of Proto impact sockets, and I cannot wait to liberate my toolbox of these pieces of Chinese horseshit. 

 

So in short, don't buy cheap tools, you'll just end up throwing them away or breaking them and buy good tools, so you might as well jump to the end and buy good tools. 

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8 minutes ago, Real_PhillBert said:

So I'm always banging the drums in my crusade against cheap tools, and today my drive got even stronger.

 

Four or five years ago I was gifted a set of Krutch (Northern Tool, china) impact sockets and have hated them ever since I first used them. When used with a reasonably strong impact, they flex and lock the fastener in and you have to put the socket in a vise and beat the fastener out. I hate them with all the fiery passion I can muster. 

 

Welp, today I was at my desk not getting a whole lot done and thinking about how those suck, so I ordered a new set of Proto impact sockets, and I cannot wait to liberate my toolbox of these pieces of Chinese horseshit. 

 

So in short, don't buy cheap tools, you'll just end up throwing them away or breaking them and buy good tools, so you might as well jump to the end and buy good tools. 

Sunnex stuff is good on a budget.

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1 minute ago, Bitter said:

Sunnex stuff is good on a budget.

I can't say that I've ever heard of Sunnex. 

CPU: i9-13900k MOBO: Asus Strix Z790-E RAM: 64GB GSkill  CPU Cooler: Corsair H170i

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Welp I just failed inspection due to "monitors not ready" after I just drove the car 50+ miles. Flm sometimes inspections can be annoying

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1 hour ago, MadyTehWolfie said:

Welp I just failed inspection due to "monitors not ready" after I just drove the car 50+ miles. Flm sometimes inspections can be annoying

why waste your time? use a scan tool to check your monitors prior

 

my dad's G35 would take forever for it's monitors to be ready after clearing I remember. Some cars just do... not sure why

 

... not that we have emissions here. I just remember watching them

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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PSA:

 

Had a lady at work bring her husband's hard drive in that apparently had all their life on it. Was an old 320GB seagate drive they've had for years. No backups. Asked if we could help her...

Plug in drive, light would flash, disk would not spin up. Computer would see the USB device, but not the disk inside.

 

Had to be the bearer of bad news to tell them the drive was dead. Recommended a local company and drive savers as potential people to rescue the data, but warned it would be very expensive.

Backup your data people!

"If a Lobster is a fish because it moves by jumping, then a kangaroo is a bird" - Admiral Paulo de Castro Moreira da Silva

"There is nothing more difficult than fixing something that isn't all the way broken yet." - Author Unknown

Spoiler

Intel Core i7-3960X @ 4.6 GHz - Asus P9X79WS/IPMI - 12GB DDR3-1600 quad-channel - EVGA GTX 1080ti SC - Fractal Design Define R5 - 500GB Crucial MX200 - NH-D15 - Logitech G710+ - Mionix Naos 7000 - Sennheiser PC350 w/Topping VX-1

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1 minute ago, bcredeur97 said:

PSA:

 

Had a lady at work bring her husband's hard drive in that apparently had all their life on it. Was an old 320GB seagate drive they've had for years. No backups. Asked if we could help her...

Plug in drive, light would flash, disk would not spin up. Computer would see the USB device, but not the disk inside.

 

Had to be the bearer of bad news to tell them the drive was dead. Recommended a local company and drive savers as potential people to rescue the data, but warned it would be very expensive.

Backup your data people!

cloud storage ?

or just not have important info ... 

Mobo - Asus Maximus VI Formula Ram - Kingston HyperX Fury 1866mhz CL10 16GBCPU - Intel i7 4790K ;

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