Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[terrytek]

1 minute ago, bcredeur97 said:

Also it's gonna be almost 80F here on Christmas Day LOL

dafuq?  even over here, the high is only like 49 here with a low of 34, in california, where winters aren't as crazy as the rest of america.

[bcredeur97]

4 minutes ago, terrytek said:

dafuq?  even over here, the high is only like 49 here with a low of 34, in california, where winters aren't as crazy as the rest of america.

And let's not forget it was 30F yesterday with a wind chill of 19... Our weather is so stupid, one day your in shorts and a t shirt and the next day your bundled up preparing for Arctic conditions 

[RevoltTrain]

Also, at stock height it was plowing snow getting in and out of the yard. (without the Aero lip I want) So... When I lower the Saab the Mercury will definitely be getting more winter use. AWD slides? Hells yes

[AlwaysFSX]

13 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

How is this even a thing??

 

https://www.theguardian.com/tv-and-radio/2016/dec/15/russian-reality-tv-show-allow-rape-murder-game2-winter?CMP=oth_b-aplnews_d-2

 

what has this world come to?

It's actually not legal, the guy is basically going "Yeah this is for fun but if you get arrested for doing illegal things that's on you."

[PandaCopyRight]

 sorry for a large image 

[RevoltTrain]

After the small burnout I did in the yard getting the Saab out. I want to do a real fat one. The struggle. But I still wanna slam it and make it kinda quick. Money money money

 

 

[AlwaysFSX]

9 minutes ago, Mister2010 said:

 sorry for a large image 

Don't have to scroll, not large.

[RevoltTrain]

So for $250 I can pick up a set of lowering springs, is it a good idea to do just springs for now, and do struts down the line? I'm worried that if I only upgrade my springs it may be slightly bouncy with the stock struts. Anyone have any advice?

 

Here's the springs I'm looking at, should I just buy these, and not install until I can afford to buy struts also? That could work

 

http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/bglosp19sa951.html

[AlwaysFSX]

9 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

So for $250 I can pick up a set of lowering springs, is it a good idea to do just springs for now, and do struts down the line? I'm worried that if I only upgrade my springs it may be slightly bouncy with the stock struts. Anyone have any advice?

 

Here's the springs I'm looking at, should I just buy these, and not install until I can afford to buy struts also? That could work

 

http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/bglosp19sa951.html

Why spend money when you can just cut your springs?

[RevoltTrain]

1 minute ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Why spend money when you can just cut your springs?

Because this car is actually nice and I want to keep it that way

[AlwaysFSX]

Just now, RevoltTrain said:

Because this car is actually nice and I want to keep it that way

Well that's no fun. Which leads me to question, would even Roadkill ever run cut springs?

[bcredeur97]

3 minutes ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Why spend money when you can just cut your springs?

It's all fun and games until you take a corner and the spring actually lifts up off its perch lol

[RevoltTrain]

1 minute ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Well that's no fun. Which leads me to question, would even Roadkill ever run cut springs?

Idk, I wouldn't even cut springs

 

Just go full hockey pucks on a shit car

 

 

[AlwaysFSX]

1 minute ago, bcredeur97 said:

It's all fun and games until you take a corner and the spring actually lifts up off its perch lol

"Wow my car is stanced and rides like a 60's Cadillac all of a sudden"

[RevoltTrain]

My thing is my struts were replaced just a few years ago, so I honestly really want to just buy springs, and run them until my struts go and then replace the struts as well. 

 

But I found a wagon specific kit of lowering springs that will drop the car 1.6" all around, that with some wheels that will be an inch bigger, and some smaller sidewall tires. It's gonna look really nice I think

[RevoltTrain]

Wheels, tires, and suspension are gonna cost me about $1400 USD. I might just ask for springs for my birthday next year 

[Real_PhillBert]

40 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

So for $250 I can pick up a set of lowering springs, is it a good idea to do just springs for now, and do struts down the line? I'm worried that if I only upgrade my springs it may be slightly bouncy with the stock struts. Anyone have any advice?

 

Here's the springs I'm looking at, should I just buy these, and not install until I can afford to buy struts also? That could work

 

http://store.newlevelmotorsports.com/bglosp19sa951.html

Well, how correct do you want to be? If you just buy shorter springs they are likely to be stiffer to accommodate the shorter travel distance. Which in itself is all fine and dandy until you consider the dampers. 

 

The formula for damping rate is 

 

C = Z*2(sqrt(mk))

 

C = Damping rate; 

Z = Damping ratio Z > 1 is overdamped, Z < 1 is under damped, Z = 1 is critically damped. 

m = unsprung mass of that corner

k = Spring rate

 

Usually cars are designed with a damping ratio ~.5, but ideally you want to be critically damped, which would be a damping ratio of 1, but this is not commonly done with street cars for the sake of ride quality. 

 

If you're really serious about it you should look for dampers that have a proper Damping rate with a damping ratio of ~.75

 

Of coarse this all takes some effort to get the proper info, and likely a set of custom valved dampers to really get right, which of course is going to cost more than $250... So yeah. I bought a couple sets of custom valved dampers for my Formula Cars back in college, I wanna say they were ~$1700-2000 for the set. 

 

I just kinda wanted to share a bit of math

[RevoltTrain]

1 minute ago, Real_PhillBert said:

Well, how correct do you want to be? If you just buy shorter springs they are likely to be stiffer to accommodate the shorter travel distance. Which in itself is all fine and dandy until you consider the dampers. 

 

The formula for damping rate is 

 

C = Z*2(sqrt(mk))

 

C = Damping rate; 

Z = Damping ratio Z > 1 is overdamped, Z < 1 is under damped, Z = 1 is critically damped. 

m = unsprung mass of that corner

k = Spring rate

 

Usually cars are designed with a damping ratio ~.5, but ideally you want to be critically damped, which would be a damping ratio of 1, but this is not commonly done with street cars for the sake of ride quality. 

 

If you're really serious about it you should look for dampers that have a proper Damping rate with a damping ratio of ~.75

 

Of coarse this all takes some effort to get the proper info, and likely a set of custom valved dampers to really get right, which of course is going to cost more than $250... So yeah. I bought a couple sets of custom valved dampers for my Formula Cars back in college, I wanna say they were ~$1700-2000 for the set. 

 

I just kinda wanted to share a bit of math

The thing is, I posted it a little after that first post, the struts in the car are OEM spec, but only a couple years old, so I think the springs I posted may treat me pretty good for a while, especially them being designed for the extra weight of the wagon will help a bit I'd imagine. I'm just worried about it being underdampened and therefore too bouncy

[Real_PhillBert]

4 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

The thing is, I posted it a little after that first post, the struts in the car are OEM spec, but only a couple years old, so I think the springs I posted may treat me pretty good for a while, especially them being designed for the extra weight of the wagon will help a bit I'd imagine. I'm just worried about it being underdampened and therefore too bouncy

I completely hear what you're saying. 

 

The issue is that you're already going to be under damped, and increasing the spring rate (stiffer shorter springs) will certainly increase the amount you will be under damped by. 

[RevoltTrain]

2 minutes ago, Real_PhillBert said:

I completely hear what you're saying. 

 

The issue is that you're already going to be under damped, and increasing the spring rate (stiffer shorter springs) will certainly increase the amount you will be under damped by. 

I think I may go for it with just the springs, see how it feels on the local roads, and then that day either go ahead and order struts, or if I'm okay with it leave it as be.

 

To be fair I'm used to driving some kinda shitty cars. I mean my old roomate's S10 the rear suspension was completely blown and the rear would bounce and I got used to it

 

(You could stand in the bed, and jump and get the back tires to pickup off the ground)

 

So if the bounce is tolerable to the point where it doesn't make it dangerous, maybe just run springs until I have some more income

[iHardware Shelden]

14 hours ago, OleST said:

That sounds way more epic than it is....

V6 Accords are epic  

[RevoltTrain]

LED all of the things

 

 

[chaozbandit]

40 minutes ago, Real_PhillBert said:

Well, how correct do you want to be? If you just buy shorter springs they are likely to be stiffer to accommodate the shorter travel distance. Which in itself is all fine and dandy until you consider the dampers. 

 

The formula for damping rate is 

 

C = Z*2(sqrt(mk))

 

C = Damping rate; 

Z = Damping ratio Z > 1 is overdamped, Z < 1 is under damped, Z = 1 is critically damped. 

m = unsprung mass of that corner

k = Spring rate

 

 

I just kinda wanted to share a bit of math

 

@MEC-777 likes a good round of suspension maths as well, don't leave him out!

[RevoltTrain]

If I could I'd buy Raceland coilovers and call it a day, but they sadly don't make coilovers for my car. They make them for 9-3s and another model, so it's possible they may offer them someday, I contacted them to see if that was ever planned. But I doubt it. Can't hurt to attempt to contact them though

[AlwaysFSX]

58 minutes ago, iHardware Shelden said:

V6 Accords are epic  

Low standards are great.