LloydLynx

This is also exactly how phishing works btw.
Maybe make your thing not look like a phishing attempt by doing the least possible.
Only reason i think its not as bad, is because its a github link, but i'd advise to be HIGHLY sceptical before downloading.

Maybe explain something where it came from who made it how it works?

Each game is running at maximum settings at 1920x1080. I initially tried to get crysis 1, 2 and 3 running but sadly cryengine has an arbitrary limitation that will not allow you to run more than one instance of it at a time. I could only circumvent it by launching crysis 2 first, followed by 1 and warhead in developer mode which seems to be removed in the newer titles.

To mention for the thread, both AC adapters are confirmed working on a D620.

I assume a VGA connection. When you auto adjust, you need the whole screen to be a bright color, like F11ing a browser window.

Can you explain that please. I'd think 11 would be designed more for this world of quick waking portable devices than 7 was.

Christmas is a LONG ways away.. Come back when you are close to buying parts.
By the time Christmas comes we will have had many new parts release pushing prices of older components down even more.
Hardware prices change month by month, no point in looking at anything right now.
 
I would say that you should get a 5700X3D, a Thermalright peerless assassin cooler to keep noise levels down as this was a complaint.
Spend the rest on a new GPU.
 
Edit: Damn, Canadian Rubles aint a joke! a 5700X3D is 330 bucks.
 
Buy a new CPU cooler and a GPU 🙂 Thats it

The problem with that approach is sketchy sellers. "richbatt" was created 2 years ago and is located in China.
 

It happened again a few minutes ago. 

That's the one with ethernet ports right? Install an MBR 32bit OS on another machine and swap the drive into the Cisco, access the OS remotely through the network.

More than likely windows installed the bootloader on the second drive, just reinstall windows with only the drive you need plugged in

So I watched the recent video and again got cringed (again) as to why LTT still not aware of this...  
 
We all know that OEM RGB software are hot garbage, even iCUE and Chroma (I can hear the fan boys already running at me), and SignalRGB is a paid hot garbage.
So you are probably asking: But Barak??? if all of them are hot garbage what do I do?!
 
Well all you need is... 
OpenRGB - This will be the driver for the LEDs, it will replace all of the malware OEM software. (it's optional but extremely recommended)   Artemis 2 - This will be the controller, it will set the color of the LEDs (it can also be used with the OEM drivers if the device isn't supported in OpenRGB yet)  
The initial setup is pretty easy, creating profiles is also pretty easy and you can use the pre-made ones from the workshop.  
Why it's so great? because...
It's FREE forever. It's open source and very active. It's fast and lightweight, it mainly uses the GPU so it barely use any CPU unlike almost all RGB software and the GPU usage isn't noticeable. You can calibrate the LEDs to fix miss matching colors between LEDs. You can map the LEDs in physical space.
It's extremely customizable and has so many effects and plugins....
You can even integrate it with AlienFX, Logitech BS, Razer Chroma and some others, it also can use stuff like PC state, power state, inputs and stuff.
It will even support the Windows 11 dynamic lighting soon (Though do we really need that?...) You can even create your own DIY RGB device and control it with this.... It can be combined with Wallpaper Engine via the Chroma integration and it's Fing amazing. And many, many more I'm just too lazy to list them out.  
You probably saying: But Barak??? This sounds amazing but OpenRGB it warned me that it can harm my LEDs!
Sometimes you need to take risks in life nah I'm kidding, Any RGB software even the OEM ones can harm your LEDs it all depends on how you drive the LEDs.
It's mainly boil down to refresh rate, the higher the refresh rate the faster that you'll burn you LEDs, I personally go with 20FPS, up to 45FPS is great and even 120FPS (if you LEDs can even support that) is still somewhat ok.
Some OEM software are killing your LEDs by using high refresh rate or even updating the LEDs when they are already displaying the desired color, so OpenRGB can actually extend the LEDs life span.
There are some issues with specific devices that has a terrible RGB hardware, mainly MSI so if something broke check their discord.
Also the device it self will probably break before the LEDs will burn out...
 
 
So yeah, this is the absolute best solution to the RGB issue and so many people aren't aware of it at all...
Conspiracy theory time: SignalRGB was a sponsor in the past so maybe LTT ignores this solution? who knows, but hi that's just a theory, a PC nerdy theory, thanks for reading. (R.I.P MatPat)
 

The previous version of Ubuntu 14 I released and posted about built for the Wii was very unstable. This one has an updated Kernel along with Wi-Fi Support now.
 
For all the details and download please check out https://github.com/Wiibuntu/Ubuntu14-Wii but I will sum up some things here.
 
About The Project:
Trying to bring newer versions of Ubuntu to the Wii has been a project of mine for the last few months. Many trial and errors. This versions actually build somewhat off of Wii-Linux-NGX But this version uses the same bootloader with a different kernel, a newer one. And it also boots Ubuntu 14 instead of Debian 8.
Kernel branch used was "Stable 3x". Originally used the "rebased-v3" Kernel but things where broken. Exact kernel is 3.14.14-wii.
 
How to Install (Homebrew Needed!):
In the download section you will find a .img file. That file will two partitions: a fat32 partition and a ext4 partition. The fat32 partition will contain the Linux loader for the Homebrew Channel.
Just flash this image to an SD Card (2GB or more needed!)
 
 
Other Wii Linux Versions:
https://github.com/Wiibuntu/Xubuntu-9.04-Wii (Unsupported)
https://github.com/Wiibuntu/Ubuntu-13.10-Wii (Active)
 
 

Document it in text and pictures, oldschool blog/website style.

Thinkpads, Dell Latitudes, and HP Elitebooks are always a good bet for this kind of use case. I'm partial to the Latitude series myself. Have a look at this Latitude 5440. Business class machines like these are built to a higher standard than the consumer and prosumer options.

I'd go for the Ubuntu derivative. Distros with Debian heritage are generally easier to find guides and community support for.
 

Seems like I'm suddenly getting the cloudflare verification process most of the time when I visit new pages.
Like I'll click into a thread and verification, click to home, another one, refresh the page, another verification.
It went away after a while but I came back 30 minutes later and its doing it again.
Am I the only one getting this?
If it's just me then whatever

Browser, version and OS:
firefox
Link to a page where it happened, if applicable: 
all
Any other relevant details:
no
 
If it's a cloudflare error, what was the ray ID from the bottom of the error page?
859b008d5a662f53

Hello, first take off gpu and boot with integrated graphics and see if 2 large vertical bar still happens, reinstall windows 10 not 11 for maximum performance. My advice is to sell that pc and get new. Its 2024 not need to use 10 year old pc.

Or take your display assembly apart and look at the back of the panel for the manufacturer's information sticker.

Get Framework support to tell you the model number of LCD panel they put in their laptops so you can find one yourself outside of Framework.

Ubuntu MATE is my go-to when I have to install a general-use Linux desktop. I'm just old and used to GNOME 2. 🤷‍♂️

so who won

This is my setup when my gaming PC is busy and I have nothing IRL to do (or nothing I want to do)

64gb ram minimum for gaming might sound crazy, but it’s not to get higher fps that you add more ram:
 
SSD swap is reduced, which increases it’s lifespan, cause there’s less writing to the disk
You can multitask a lot more with performance dropping cause you’re out of RAM. You have a PC, not a console.
you can have multiple games open at once.
Your frametimes and game smoothness increases
If you have a many core CPU as well, you can even game while doing professional work or rendering in the background.
I have maced out 32gb of ram while having no games open at all, or just having 1 game open without anything else in the background. And games won’t be using less ram in the future, more like the opposite.
 
And regarding CPU’s with more cores, the same benefits apply. This is why benchmarks aren’t necessarily stupid, but they don’t show real world performance and gameplay, and the reviewers don’t talk about how the PC actually feels to use, that it feels faster without looking at numbers with more cores and RAM, things install faster, load faster, lag less and so on.
 
I also hope LTT will talk more about this in the future, instead of just using benchmarks. They have so much staff, surely somebody can take the time to actually daily drive difference types of PC’s, and report on the results.
 

Optiplex 7010 SFF. I bought 3 of them for $100 on craigslist last week, all with 32gb RAM, i7 3770's, and 240GB Crucial and Samsung SSD's. The parts are coming in handy not only for this stupid project here, my main PC got a 32GB RAM upgrade from it and my friend is getting the same.
 
The reason I stuck a Dell mobo in his case is because his old motherboard (ASRock Z77 Pro3) died and the new replacement I ordered (ASUS P8P67 LE) arrived DOA. Money down the drain unless I can get a refund on it. At that point I was kinda messing around with the pile of parts around me when I discovered the Dell motherboard has standard ATX screw holes and fit perfectly. It was at that point I knew what I must do.
Hey, now that's what I'm talkin' about. The shipping from Sparkfun is insane. But I did find one on Ebay for $8 free shipping.