Frenky

I don't think he is any worse for offering it to you than you are for buying it to be honest.

Of those, I'd get the 3060 Ti. You're looking at much better performance there for only a 7% price increase over the more expensive 3060. Otherwise, go with the single fan 3060, because if your goal is to save money, then you need to save money.

I'm on the same resolution (@100hz) with a 3070 Ti and I'm running a 3700x without any problems. Any modern AMD or intel CPU will be fine for you. If I needed a new mobo/cpu right now I'd go with a 5800x but that's just my AMD bias.

Oh I assumed b450 or something. Yeah. Totally not worth it. Wait for a real upgrade like 5nm Zen4 and DDR5

So whats the question?

Probably problem with the game? If its not happening on the others.. 

Here is the difference between a high end 3080, low end 3080 ti and high end 3080 ti at 1440p.
This is with an i9 9900k.
The cards are:
ROG Strix White OC:  370 watt stock power limit
EVGA XC3 Ultra:         350 watt stock power limit
EVGA FTW3 Ultra:      400 watt stock power limit
 
These are older games because I use the benchmarks to see what I get from upgrades.
A high end 3080 like the ROG Strix is very close to a low end 3080 ti but can be owned by a high end 3080 ti. I prefer the XC3 Ultra 3080 ti over the Strix because of the vram. 
 
Shadow of the Tomb Raider         1440p       
i9 9900k
ROG Strix 3080                           144fps        
XC3 Ultra 3080 ti                         143fps     
FTW3 Ultra 3080 ti                      154fps     
 
Horizon Zero Dawn                    1440p       
i9 9900k
ROG Strix 3080                          118fps     
XC3 Ultra 3080 ti                        128fps      
FTW3 Ultra 3080 ti                     155fps 
 
 
Assassins Creed Odyssey        1440p
i9 9900k
ROG Strix 3080                          82fps
XC3 Ultra 3080 ti                        90fps     
FTW3 Ultra 3080 ti                     89fps
 
The high end 3080 ti can pull away by about 20 frames from the 3080 in some games at 1440p so I think it is worth getting.
 
The FTW3 Ultra is in a my 5900x rig now and it can do over 50 frames more at 1440p in some games than the i9 9900k but I have never put the 3080 in it.
The reason is the vram. My modded games use less than 12 but more than 10 and I can feel it with the 3080. If it was a 12gb version it would not be an issue.
 
I have a MSI Gaming X Trio 3090 and it performs about the same as a FTW3 Ultra 3080 ti. It is in a video editing rig since that uses the vram. I am planning to get another as a spare so I will stick it in a gaming rig just for fun.     
 
 

Look into undervolting (lookup youtube tutorials, sounds scary but its not, very easy) and probably replacing the thermal paste.

If you add more PCIE devices, either:
the device you add is not going to be detected. or your graphics card is going to run at PCIE x4 (most likely this). If you still going to do it, put in the last slot or the third pcie slot (first blue PCIE x16 one), but just so you know, you gonna be leaving some performance on the table in games if you add another NVME.

The bottom slot is disabled when the bottom M.2 slot is occupied.
 
The next slot up is a PCIe Gen 2 slot with only 1 lane of bandwidth, so you'd be running at 1/8th the max bandwidth of whatever SSD you get.
 
Next slot up will take 8 lanes away from your GPU, but if you have any GPU lower than a 1080 Ti it doesn't really matter. This is probably your best option.

this is where the motherboard manual is actually helpful:
https://download.asrock.com/Manual/X370 Taichi.pdf
 
page 25 has some details about which slot conflixts with what:
slot 5 (the very bottom one) is shared with the bottom M.2 slot, so that one is out already.
it also mentions that slot 2 and 3 (the GPU one and the other big one) are sharing 16 CPU lanes, so if you use slot 3 you're cutting GPU lanes in half.
 
so i suppose this means either of the 1x slots. i dont directly find a note that either one of these are shared with anything else, so i suppose both are fair game.

Hey, thanks again for the advice. I followed a tutorial and it worked like a charm!
I also took apart and re-reapplied thermal paste, and that helped a bit.
Seeing hotspot temps of 72c-80c at the maximum now. 

I use an adblocker browser extension and a pihole, and i force all devices in my network to use it by rerouting packets. I do not care about anyone losing any money. I decide what data enters or leaves my network and which connections are being made or blocked. I can't stand ads, it's one of the main reasons I haven't watched TV in like forever. 
 
If you have to make money by annoying people with ads you should think of a better revenue stream and stop ruining the internet.

To be honest I think you're perfectly fine with a 3700X. I got one too and was looking at the 5800X but I don't think I would notice any difference. I would either go for the 3700X in your case, or even the 3900X (in my local stores 3900x is slightly cheaper than 5800X and might benefit your workload).

That CPU is perfectly good, save your money man. 

Asrock's Taichi are among the best, both x370 or 470.

you plugged ur hdmi in with a cpu without intergrated graphics, then used a zen+ cpu on the first gen board, and calls the build cursed. Probably shouldn't build it yourself at that point, but best of luck, and do a minimum amount of research before a build. It's just plain lazy.
 
Random rambling doesn't give context to the situation
 

Try this: 
 

That's insane, i dont get it, they will only push people towards affordable cpu's from AMD ?!

Its not exactly the same and the 2700x should come with a cooler as well. To be precise the Wraith MAX Cooler, wich should be comparable to your Hyper 212 though probably a bit louder.
 
And its not the same (well, after it was tested and packaged) because AMD does some extensive binning, so that the 2700x is the better silicon. Meaning that the better chips get packaged as 2700x while the worse ones are only 2700 (or 2600). So the probability that you archieve the same clockrates as you would with the 2700x is low.
 
But the difference between the two is quite high. 500MHz higher base clock, though onls 200MHz more boost. But the X-Models come with what AMD calles "XFR" wich is a more agressive Boost mechanism.
 
And right now, the difference between 2700 and 2700x is like 30 bucks or so. The Cooler alone is more than worth it!!
And sold seperately for like 45€
https://geizhals.de/amd-wraith-max-199-999575-a1687842.html
 
Because with the 'normal' 2700 you only get the Wraith Spire, not the MAX, that one is exclusive to the 2700X AFAIK.
 
What I'M going at is that the 2700x already does what you want and stays above 4GHz, according to the Review I've posted.
 
I don't know. But the CPU should reach 3,7GHz with boost clocks anyway.

The "intelligent BOost" from AMD is rather interesting and works pretty well.
The max. Boost of my 1700x is 3,9GHz by the way...
 
So you should try the Stock clocks first and see if that is what you want/need/Like as the CPU usually runs at higher clocks with boost than manual overclock...

Umm... might want to do a little research. Mobile market for something like big.LITTLE octa-core CPUs use 4 lower power cores to save battery life and 4 higher power cores to still deliver performance. Console CPUs such as the ones in the PS4 and Xbox one are an entire generation behind and won't hold a candle to modern AMD CPUs like Ryzen.
 
More cores are not automatically better. I have a dual CPU 12 core 24 thread server sitting in my cabinet right now that won't hold a candle in gaming or even something like cinebench that takes advantage of more cores/threads compared to my lowly stock Ryzen 7 1700X with 4 less cores and 8 less threads. These two computers have two different use cases. I use the high core count as a 24/7 365 hypervisor. My main PC is for work and gaming.
 
That Ryzen 5 2600X even outperforms my Ryzen 7 1700X in benchmark scores. It's single thread performance really makes it pull ahead.

Speaker is on the mobo too, connected as well. Yeah apparently the red lights are just for show. How can I turn on the computer without using the power button? 

I found out how to do this from a youtube vid, and nothing happens. This means the mobo is dead?

Alright thanks, ill RMA it and hope all goes well after that. 

Let me get my crystal ball to magically know what can be better to you based on zero background information.