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About manikyath

  • Currently Viewing Forums Index
  • Title
    keeper of the magical rowenta space heater
  • Birthday Dec 26, 1994

Contact Methods

  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Location
    commonwealth in the former soviet banana republic of belgium
  • Gender
  • Interests
    Breaking stuff, to make it better.
  • Biography
    Microsoft Certified Ass..ociate.
  • Occupation
    IT support engineer, primarily medical sector


  • CPU
    i7 4790k
  • Motherboard
    asus Z97 mark 2
  • RAM
    32GB DDR3 1600 (corsair vengeance LP)
  • GPU
    asus GTX970 strix
  • Case
    Fractal Design Define R5 (black, no window)
  • Storage
    240GB sandisk Ultra II / 2TB WD black
  • PSU
    corsair RM750
  • Display(s)
    2x BenQ BL2420PT
  • Cooling
    Be Quiet dark rock advanced C1
  • Keyboard
    logitech G110
  • Mouse
    logitech G500
  • Sound
    hyperx cloud | pioneer vsx-c300 | PE HSV 40T
  • Operating System
    MSX brickware edition.
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

147,643 profile views
  1. so.. i thought my fancy lighter broke, because it wasnt lighting up, and refilling wasnt solving it..


    and then i realised the contrast between those fancy "jet" lighters, and prehistoric cans of lighter gas...


    the lighter burns trough gas faster than the can can refill it... so filling it for a minute or so only burns the lighter for like 30 seconds...

  2. resource monitor does things oddly.. he may be referring to the cpu clock speed, which takes "base clock" as 100%, so if you have a device with 2GHz base clock, and 3GHz boost clock, the dial will go to "150%". if i recall... the 'cpu usage' graph does stick to 100% metric... but it may report a single core as "100%" in some places, meaning that you could technically have "400%" usage on a quad core.
  3. so... at the end of AGDQ2021.. jhobz had to see my friend's photoshop floor...



  4. presuming you're not going for adressible RGB, it's pretty easy: you can buy vareous formfactor RGB LEDs from just about any components supplier, you just need to make sure you match the 'common cathode' vs 'common anode' stuff, then you solder 4 leads to them, put a resistor on each color lead, put a connector on it, and call it a day. common cathode has Ground/red/green/blue pinout, common anode has Vcc/red/green/blue. for resistor values, it depends on the exact LED you get, esentially it's ohm's law: each color requires a certain current draw, you know the voltage, th
  5. i have the deepest respect for bigclivedotcom's ability to read complete nonsense as if it makes sense, without breaking into even as much as a snort.


  6. some texas instruments graphical calculators have those in them, because they can act as both a host and a client on the port, and the stuff that requires them to be host uses this plug. mini B fits in it just fine, it's a matter of physically differentiating between host and client (on the side of TI calculators at least).
  7. knowing what Asus does on the intel side of things.. what they are most likely doing is playing more 'loosely' around power targets. i'd say with confidence that it's not going to break anything, but you can assume that your cpu is going to use a whole lot more power in "asus optimal" mode.
  8. my highlight of AGDQ so far: this hilareous photoshop of Blechy's face cam:







    Moral of the story: dont drink bleach.

    1. Drama Lama

      Drama Lama

      Big brain time 

  9. the best in what way? also, the best 'on average' or the 'single best product'? because aside from the very specialized services, most companies have quite a wide quality range.
  10. the thing with compactflash, is that it's "under the hood" an IDE interface, so the adapters are dirt cheap, and there's no active conversions to worry about.
  11. https://www.amazon.com/SanDisk-Extreme-CompactFlash-Memory-SDCFXSB-064G-G46/dp/B00NUB2RPW
  12. get an IDE to compactflash adapter, and a decent compactflash card. the performance of a CF card is leagues beyond an IDE hard drive already.
  13. amazon is not an option for me, complexity around their very odd 'presence' (or lack thereof) in belgium. the subwoofer 'issue' is why i ended up with the before mentioned amplifer. it's got the option to take stereo input, and 'split off' subwoofer channels as for if the speakers are worth the effort... putting together a relatively cheap amplifier will be a whole lot cheaper than an entirely new system that'll outperform the current speakers, and the current speakers suit the interior, which is the biggest reason of sticking with them. the sonos lacks t
  14. i'm planning to keep the speakers, just ditch the bluray player / amplifier combo. as for the sound bar.. it'd be my preferred option as well, but we have a bit of an odd (dated?) living room TV setup, and there really is no good place to put a sound bar. with @.Apex.'s suggestion to look into automotive stuff i found this amplifier that seems nice enough, how i'll make this work with a TV is something i'm not entirely sure of just yet... https://www.sony.com/electronics/car-amplifiers/xm-s400d