Neggy-Z

What would be the point? You're just adding yet another layer of copper to transfer heat through.
If you're going to that kind of extreme you may as well lap the ihs flat, would be easier and less risky.

That's just wrong, it's worked fine for me on every AMD card i've owned dating back to at least the HD5000 series cards.
 
Looks like a detection issue to me, it's not detecting your current drivers and displaying 'RX 3750 XT'? in the monitoring graph.
I would DDU the current drivers, uninstall AB whilemaking sure to remove the user profile settings, it should prompt for this while uninstalling, then start with fresh drivers and reinstall AB.

There's also OpenRGB
https://openrgb.org/

You're better off just disabling/disconnecting your network/internet so windows doesn't auto download basic drivers

You'll need more then just a tissue for cleaning if there is any solid buildup, I've always used a piece of scotch brite, the rough side of a cleaning sponge is also good, as this isn't as harsh as using sandpaper but still gets the surface smooth.
 
You shouldn't notice any performance loss from continued use, providing both surfaces are cleaned and prepared properly.

If you can't get all the fluid out due to a rad or block not draining completely i would just flush the system a few times with distilled water, after that just add your coolant, being diluted with a bit of distilled water is better then the superflush.

EK sell a separate fan mounting bracket.
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-loop-uni-pump-reservoir-bracket-120mm

Yes.
Using even slightly thicker pads will almost always cause mounting pressure issues, thermal pads can only compress so far.
 
Sure, go for it, enjoy your cracked piece of silicon or warped pcb.

The main benefit of gpu scaling would be to take advantage of integer scaling, providing your gpu supports it.
The performance hit would be very minimal, 1-2% at worst, though i doubt it's even that much.

VSR also works on the desktop.
 

Check the motherboard cpu support page and compare bios revision with the one currently on the board.
Depending on how old the board/bios is it might be worthwhile to update the bios anyway.
You might now see an increase in fps with a gtx 1660, but then it would depend on what games you play, cpu limited competitive games is probably where you will see the most gains.

While they may offer some sort of grounding they are mainly there to secure the riser pcb to the rest of the vertical mount.

While they may offer some sort of grounding they are mainly there to secure the riser pcb to the rest of the vertical mount.

Mystic fog coolant is quite unique, not surprising this happens.
I've never used mystic fog myself but all the ek solid coolants i've used over the years have always darkened over time, besides small amounts of build up where flow is minimal i've ever had the solid fall out of my coolants.
I would stick to the non solid fluids, or even just the clear coolant, if you want to keep it simple.

Having the AIO rad in ithe bottom of the case is a bad idea, the pump would be the highest point where the air would settle, will cause issues.
You would be best to have the rads on the top and side set as exhaust and have 3 fans on the bottom of the case set as intake.
 

There's also 180 degree versions like these that will look a lot cleaner then 90 degree ones:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224964383180?hash=item3460ec11
Just make sure to select the right one with the connectors orientated the correct way for your graphics card connectors.

It your card boosting to it's advertised clocks? Check in the AMD software in the tuning section to check what's happening, it could be stuck in a low powered state or something.
I've recently seen my 6900xt randomly get stuck at 500mhz on the core for what ever reason, even hitting the load defaults it will be stuck at 500mhz and i have to manually set a higher clock speed,

You would be much better off selecting a built in preset and comparing it to other results with the same preset, using custom settings makes it impossible to compare results.
You could also try something like 3dmark firestrike or time spy and compare the graphics scores.

A graphite pad would be worse then using a high end thermal paste, they are more for situations where you apply and never have to change it again.
I own a Dell G7 7700 with an i7 8750H, similar cpu with slightly lower clocks.
From what i can the cooling solution is really under powered for what hardware is packed into these laptops.
Using high end thermal pastes i didn't noticed a difference over the stock paste, the heatsink is just heat soaked far to quickly, i doubt even LM would help.
My only solution was to limit how high the cpu can boost it's clocks.

If you're going with the Red Devil Ultimate you'll wanna get this block:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-vector-red-devil-rx-6800-6900-d-rgb-nickel-plexi
The block you linked is for the reference cards.
I don't think EK have a block for the Asrock card, unless it shares the same PCB with another card.
 
I don't think a single slim 360 rad from EK will be enough for cpu+gpu.
Well it probably will be just don't expect the system to be quiet under load.
I run 2 of these rads to cool a 9900k + 6900XT (possibly slightly overkill but its quiet)
I would suggest waiting for EK to release their updated rads, or use a thicker/different brand rad.
 
Don't forget about a drain port.

There wouldn't be a way to control them via software.
You could get a usb potentiometer, will give you voltage control for the fans.
Not sure how these go long term, if they can put more stress on the usb port/risk of burning out the port, but i have one connected to my routers usb port to power a couple of 120mm fans to cool down my networking/internet gear and it seems to be doing a good job.
One thing to keep in mind would be how many amps your usb port can provide.

The only thing that matter when it comes to most cpu blocks is the correct flow direction.

Not sure it's worth it, here in Aus it's triple the price of a velocity block, i doubt it's more then a few degrees better.
Buy it if you got money to burn otherwise go with a velocity block.

I would look at getting a ball valve for ease of draining the loop.
Things you'll probably need other then the ball valve itself to complete it are a couple of male to male extenders, a T splitter and a plug for the end of the ball valve.

Did you check aliexpress? Try searching for the actual panel part number not the monitor product name.