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Having incompatible ram can also cause programs and games to not startup or frequently crash. The ram can work and the computer can start up but if it has issues or doesn't work right with the CPU can cause all the issues you're having.

So you have all 4 dimms filled with 4gb sticks?
 
Remove the 2 slow ones, make sure the fast ones are in the correct dimms per your Mobo, and report results.

I had just gotten the RX 5700 and was reading up on the driver issues associated with it. Everybody was mentioning fan curves and high temps (and crashing when tweaking fan curves). I spent hours last night researching everything I could regarding an error message I received, "Your video card does not support alpha blending with floating point render targets(D3DFMT_A16B16G16R16F)."
 
A lot of people were mentioning Directx 3D acceleration and going into diagx (or whatever it is). The only solution I have found -- and hopefully it works for you as well -- is Run -> Control -> Programs and Applications -> Programs -> AMD settings and completely uninstall 19.7.2. Some people have mentioned using the disk drivers instead of downloading straight from AMD's "Driver and Support." I recommend downloading from the website; HOWEVER, do NOT, NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT, download the auto-installer. There's apparently a bug in the auto installer that disrupts the DirectX drivers and causes plenty of issues within Steam and "opens" apps then immediately closes them.
 
If you download the actual software and 19.7.2 and use the "custom install" choice, there will show a download part of 19.7.2 that mentions DirectX drivers.
 
Once I uninstalled all of AMD software and re-downloaded JUST the 19.7.2, my computer works like a champ. I was able to tweak fan curves with no issue at all. I will attempt to Undervolt the GPU tonight, as many others have mentioned it helps with temps, but I think I should be plenty fine.
 
Hope this helps, guys. Save yourself 4 hours of dummy research and just try this first and foremost!

IIRC, there's an ongoing issue with PCIE 4 and AMD Chipset driver. Not AM4 in general, try fallback to PCIE 3 if you're affected.

as soon as you send an analogue signal down a cable it goes wherever it can lol. you can fry an amplifier so easily if you input voltage into its output

I really would not do this.. you would join the two ground's together and cause humming, you might also cause issues like @Nimrodor said. The output on one pc might put voltage into the output of the other pc which can fry cheap components.

...if the output impedance of one amplifier is near zero, how much current will get sunk through it compared to the load?
Circuit Simulation
 
This is a bad idea, one that can destroy amplifiers without protection circuits or large output resistors – it's similar to shorting both devices. With a PC it might not break anything only because the current is so limited. Then again, I could see some of the simple op-amp buffered motherboards potentially killing each other's audio outputs.

You could but it's not recommended. I've done it caused some issues like grounding and made a little t of electrical noiseotherwise worked ok. Much better to just get a  cheap little mixer.

Why even bother posting? We can't give useless points.
"I have no idea, you're welcome OP" 

It's Thermalright, not Thermaltake. Thermalright is one of the best CPU cooler company out there, the Thermalright Le Grand Macho RT is one of their top tier air cooler.

If your GPU is manually overclocked then back it down to whatever stock is.
 
Alternately use the last good GPU driver.
 
Unrelated: Increase your FOV. There's no reason to have such a ridiculously low FOV on a PC. Felt sick watching that.

I'm fairly confident now that the accumulating hot air in the rear top of the case caused the shutdowns. If it might've been the VRMs too, though the MSI z270 gaming pro carbon seems to have good vrm design.
A bad connection? I doubt that. Wouldn't that cause some continuous issue? I've removed the braided cable extensions, there might've been something wrong with those? Tho what could go wrong with some wires (which do not have sharp bends).
I'll keep a lookout for any shutdowns in a well ventilated case.

Thanks for the input guys!

The 502 has more buttons which are very useful in everything, gaming and work (5 more inputs compare to 403).
Its scroll wheel has a little rattle side to side. It has very nice, crisp scroll clicks tho. Easy to click, too. I try to avoid long scrolling sprees with it because it feels metallic and more fragile than the rubbery scroll wheels of most other mice. That's why infinity scroll is there!
It is easier to lift, thanks to the design of the right side. You can see this on the bottom photo on logitech's site. The bottom edge goes under the right button -kind of-, so your fingers can't slip off when lifting the mouse.
All the extra buttons are perfectly positioned for me. They are easy to use. (my hand is about 18x10cm LxW)
I don't use the weights, however they seem to be with quite tight tolerances, I'd say it's so that the magnetic cover isn't needed to hold them inside.
 
(I got the 502 after returning a 403 because of the scroll wheel. I base my knowledge of the 403 based on the one I returned and the 603, which I own.)
The 403 is lighter, and both of its main buttons are concave, which assist in lifting the mouse. The overall shape isn't "lifting friendly". The rubber coating on it isn't as helpful as it is on the 502 either.
The scroll wheel feels weird on these (403 and 603), it has a sizable dead zone between each scroll click. The clicks are quite rubbery, soft and gradual, tho it is perfectly noticeable when a scroll step is registered. This dead zone and softness make it a bit harder to click in.
This is why I returned the 403. (The 603 is very similar, but I got used to it because I had to have a lightspeed mouse.)
The side buttons are easy to find, much larger and not as sharp as on the 502. I don't prefer either, they're all comfortable to me.
The trap door on the 403 is a smart solution, though the single weight provides less customizability.
 
At least the left button is concave on both, which is absolutely neccesary for precision imo.
I use both with palm or fingertip grip, depending on the situation.
The cable is good on both, though it's not amazingly flexible. It tends to hold its shape. I've been rubbing the 502's cable on the edge of my desk for about 2 years now, and it did fray a little though it's only superficial, aesthetic.
Both scroll wheels are somewhat flawed, but totally acceptable and usable. 
 
Performance-wise both are excellent. Very short liftoff distance, and perfect tracking. Crisp button clicks on the main and secondary buttons as well.
 
I ended up with both (kind of), and I like to switch 'em up from time to time. Though the wireless nature of the 603 is a godsend. I believe the 403 and 603 are quite close in price. Check them out, maybe? If I had to pick one tho, I'd choose the 502. It's overall a more serious piece.

Most (if not all) rgb keyboards don't do white well, but the overall lighting is good, there are many reviews for that board, take look at those. For example there is this quick one : 
 

That's strange i have no issues with mine.
Try without logitech gaming software..use it for one time to adjust the DPi and save the profiles to the mouse onboard memory and then uninstall the software.

Consider reading through this, it gives a very good in depth look at the unethical business practices of Epic's store and other companies
 

Surround in headphones is impossible in first place, but the "virtual surround" is just software audio adjustement to make it sound more distant ( goal to increase soundstage and maybe imaging ) in expense of sound quality, you can make surround on any headphones using something like free "Razer Surround" software. If you mean surround that you want to hear enemies from 360 ( all possible directions, then good stereo headphones does that just fine ).

I used to love virtual surround on various crappy headphones that i had years ago but when i got my first decent Open Backs i installed it and it didn't made any difference just made it sound weird, because the stereo headphones was already doing so well, so you can get an idea how unimportant the surround is.

In terms of sound quality and realism for both music listening and gaming:
Good pair of studio/audiophile open-back stereo headphones > Good pair of studio/audiophile Closed-Back stereo headphones > Stereo Headphones with Virtual Surround ( Most gaming ones w/ option to turn off the surround ) > Headphones with "Real Surround / Multiple drivers on each side" ( this one is complete gimmick and worthless garbage ). 

Most gaming headphones suffer from bad frequency response and overall lack of quality which means they don't reproduce the sound well ( for example most common gaming response: has way too much bass, mids barely exist or heavily blended with lows and treble is too random - too silent at some khz and too loud at others ), while "Studio" headphones tries to keep the frequency response as flat as possible, so the sound reproduction is as accurate as original recording or whatever so you can hear the sounds exactly how it was made and there's so called "Audiophile" headphones which also aims for flat response but with more color and mood to it, so its alot more satisfying to listen to or game with ( DT 770, HD 598SR is one of these just in the Entry level ), but DT 770 is more V-Shaped which means the Treble and Bass is emphasized and mids recessed.


Open Back vs Closed Back, this guy does good job explaining it ( 770 is closed, 990 is open  )
Basically Open back advantages is:
- Better Steps positional audio
- Sounds becomes more separated and clear
- Ear "breathing" ( no sweating atleast for me even if i sit like 10hours straight with them on in 30+ celsius room ).
- Has bigger soundstage ( it feels like surround, not like its coming from your head, in some cases you can even tell the distance where the enemy is, not only direction, if you never used them you can sometimes get jumpscared, because some sounds sound like they're coming from ur room or somewhere close to you, once i got pretty convinced that someone smashed my window, but turns out it was from random video on youtube   )

And the cons is: sound leakage + almost no noise isolation so you can hear your environment if ure not using them too loud ( which i highly prefer so i can hear if someone is calling me + there's no uncomfortable isolated feeling and no weird whooshing in ears ).


P.S. HyperX Cloud's was based on somewhat Low End studio/monitoring headphones "Takstar 80 Pro" thats probs also the reason why they got so popular, because gamers got a taste of how studio headphones sound like and feel like on the head, however Takstar/Cloud's has crappy treble, also they kinda has weird Left/Right balance, many people also claim that 30$ SR850 or Superlux 668B ( Semi-Open ) sound alot better and they also claim that music is not enjoyable on Cloud's which is red flag for poor sound quality ( too bad i had no opportunity to test it myself, but i imagine they should be OK and not that bad but still far away from something like HD 598 ). 

Push is generally better. The case should come with 3 stock case fans. Did you remove the original front fans or are you using them in push / pull with the H115i fans?
What graphics card are you using?

It looks like a Hyper 212 clone. It should handle a stock 8700k, but I wouldn't expect any overclocking with it.
 
If you are sticking with air coolers, get something tier 3 or higher from this list if you want to overclock:
 
 

Did you ddu and install the new drivers?
 
What rez is your display?

It depends, some people buy monitors due to other features like 144Hz or 2k/4k resolution, because unlike Gsync, Freesync monitors are not more expensive because it has this feature.

adapter the pump to molex or sata so it runs at full speed. use a Y splitter for the fans to a CPU header.

a 1070ti on a 60hz monitor is a massive waste.
 
go with the 144. you may not be able to hit ultra on all games, but you will be pretty comfortable with high

I have a 144 Hz panel and a 1060. I can't always push 144 Hz but honestly, the difference between 60 Hz and more than 60 Hz (even 75) is really nice. 
 
Personally I set up a custom resolution with my desired framerate for the game I'm playing, then turn vsync on. 
 
For example, fallout 4 I set 75 Hz, same with skyrim. But lighter games I may set to 100 Hz. 

1070ti should push 144fps at 1080p without any issues. What's the rest of the system like? Which CPU do you have?
What games will you be playing?