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About badreg

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  1. Assuming that your 650W is a quality unit, you have plenty of headroom with your current setup. Adding a 1030 for 2d output is going to draw an additional ~10W, which is insignificant.
  2. You can't. The bill of materials is close to $500 for Sony. Consoles are sold at a loss for the first several years after launch.
  3. HDR is for HDR video content creation and consumption. Viewing HDR photos on a monitor isn't really a thing. In general, "HDR photography" refers to images that are tone mapped down to 8-bits. OLED displays are great for consumption, but they are poor choices if color accuracy is the priority. IPS panels have terrible black levels compared to OLED, but color accuracy is the reason why almost all high-end professional displays are IPS. Most people who view your images will not be viewing on OLED displays, and you have no idea how they would look on different displays unless you proc
  4. Why is HDR a consideration if this is used for photo editing? A wide gamut (Adobe RGB) should be far ahead on the feature list than HDR.
  5. No, Adobe RGB is a different color space from sRGB. They are not related to each other. It just happens that Adobe RGB includes all of sRGB, but this is not always the case. For example, DCI-P3 is an emerging standard and is roughly the same size as Adobe RGB, but there are colors that are included in Adobe RGB that are not in DCI-P3, and there are colors that are in DCI-P3 but not in Adobe RGB. In essence, color spaces are just definitions of what the red, green, blue primaries are. Your display needs to be physically capable of outputting those primaries to display the entire color space. Ca
  6. I'm not quite sure what you mean by a "plain" monitor and calibrating it "yourself". You may be misunderstanding how calibration works. First, in order to calibrate a display, you need a colorimeter in order to create a custom ICM profile specific to your display. The i1Display Pro that I recommended is one such device. Calibration is not something that you can do by eye. Second, if you are targeting the Adobe RGB color space, you need a display that is capable of covering the entire Adobe RGB gamut. Cheap displays typically cover only the sRGB gamut. Calibrating a disp
  7. The X-Rite i1Display Pro (and whatever the Datacolor equivalent is) should be what you are looking for. This is the cheapest device that can do hardware calibration on supported displays, and you shouldn't be using anything cheaper for professional work. However, it should go without saying that a colorimeter can only calibrate a display. It can't fix a faulty one or increase the gamut of a display that does not otherwise support Adobe RGB. If your display is dying, a colorimeter is not really the first thing that you should be thinking about.
  8. This is a side by side of 100% crops of RAW images from an iPhone 11 and a Sony A7R4. Is there a visual difference between the two? Sure, but the Sony is a 61MP sensor paired with a $1,500 lens. Yet this "tiny sensor" comes enough to a "real camera" that the difference is meaningless for most people. And this is compared to a current $4000 camera. Against a $600 camera from 2011 with a $200 lens, the iPhone would be ahead. If you are interested in reading more, this is the article that the image came from: https://blog.halide.cam/inside-the-iphone-11-camera-part-1-
  9. An image search on Google shows that ©2016 is what it should say. https://www.techspot.com/products/processors/amd-athlon-200ge.188774/
  10. The way that dynamic range is measured in a lab (at least the way that DXOMARK does it) is a valid indicator of real world performance. It is expressed as the ratio between the highest luminance gray and the lowest luminance gray that has a signal-to-noise ratio above 1 that a sensor can capture. Effectively, the lower the noise floor, the higher dynamic range a sensor has. In the real world, this has a direct effect on how far the exposure slider can be dragged to the right before the shadow areas fall apart. With a low dynamic range sensor like a 2011 Canon sensor, a ISO 100 imag
  11. You know that nothing stops you from capturing in RAW with a phone, right? The sensor in your T5 has a dynamic range of around 11 stops at base ISO. The iPhone 12 Pro has a dynamic range of 14 stops, which trades blows with modern full frame and medium format sensors that hit close to 15 stops. A modern flagship phone sensor is miles ahead of a mid-range APS-C sensor from 2011. It is not even close.
  12. 4.6Ghz is the maximum 1-core boost clock. That's why it says "up to". All core boost clock is 4.3Ghz. Since you have a Z board, you can enable "Sync All Cores", which will change the boost table to 4.6Ghz all cores. Or just dial in a manual overclock. Nearly every 9600k will do 5 0Ghz if you have adequate cooling.
  13. Resolution and dynamic range? Definitely a modern phone. Form factor and interchangeable lenses? Dedicated camera.
  14. There's probably a checksum somewhere in the file. Look for other differences and try to reverse engineer how the checksum works.
  15. I never said that the 30% figure has anything to do with warranty. It doesn't. Manufacturer warranties are based on both time and TBW. Your Evo is still at 100% because your host writes are probably less than 10x of your drive capacity. CrystalDiskInfo only looks at the average number of P/E cycles of each block to determine the estimated remaining life. It doesn't care how old the drive is.