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About 00RaZoR11

  • Title
  • Birthday Sep 29, 1997

Contact Methods

  • Steam
  • Twitch.tv
  • Twitter

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Interests
    Hardware, Cooling, Overclocking, Watercooling
  • Occupation


  • CPU
    R7 2700
  • Motherboard
    Asrock b450 gaming k4
  • RAM
    Gskill Ripjaws v 3200mhz cl16 2x8GB
  • GPU
    sapphire pulse 5700xt
  • Case
    fractal meshify c
  • Storage
    250gb samsung ssd, 2tb seagate 7200rpm hdd, 512gb 2.5" hitachi hdd
  • PSU
    Be quiet! Straight Power e11 650w
  • Display(s)
    Acer 144hz 1080p TN
  • Cooling
    EK-Kit S240, NB Eloop 120mm, Be quiet! Shadow Wings 140mm Mid, Bitfenix Spectre LED 120mm
  • Keyboard
    CM MK750, Storm Quickfire TK
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Spectrum, G303, G603
  • Sound
    Hyperx Cloud Stinger
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 64 bit
  • Laptop
    Acer Swift 3 (SF314-52), i5 7200u, 8gb

Recent Profile Visitors

2,137 profile views
  1. damn nice find. So i was kinda right but wrong but right lol. Could you buy some?
  2. certainly. However with such height limitations OP may not have the space for an AIO, or he might not want to replace it after a few years. Personally I don't like AIOs because they are meant to be trashed after some time, instead of being designed for working as long as possible.
  3. I remember seeing such co-joined fans included with AIOs, I think it was coolermaster. They didn't have leds tho. -later- I looked it up, I didn't see any coolermasters in my store with such fans. Nor raijintek. I have no idea what brand it was, but I'm 80% sure it was an AIO.
  4. that noctua looks like a beast (for a 90mm). An arctic freezer 34 was able to handle my 2700 at 4.2ghz, so I'm sure it would be good on a 2600x. If you can fit that, it's a fraction of the price, and would handle larger chips in the future. Personally I wouldn't go cheaper than that.
  5. I guess you mean price/performance vs size. If you don't ever want to buy another cpu cooler, I recommend an nhd15 or nh u12a. They are probably overkill for a 3600x, but they could work really quietly (if your case airflow allows). The be quiet dark rock 4 (pro) would be good too. Thermalright silver arrow IBE (I think they make am4 mounting brackets). I have a custom loop with 2 radiators, it looks nice and it's plenty powerful, but now I'd rather use an aircooler (like the nh u12a) because of maintenance. In my opinion all non-expandable or aluminium AIOs are trash products. They have
  6. i think you would be better off with some earplugs.
  7. agreed. An ordinary desktop doesn't need anything more than a 3000rpm ippc. I think OP underestimates the noise a delta would make. Imo even 2000rpm 120mm fans are useless thanks to the noise they make. A delta in a desktop is the stupid kind of overkill
  8. the problem with a 7700k (and most intel cpus) is its trash thermal interface under the IHS. Heat simply doesn't get out of the cpu. No matter what cooler you put on it, since the heat doesn't get transferred from the chip to the ihs or heatsink. I'm pretty sure your cpu cooler doesn't even get warm to the touch during a cpu stress test. The only ways to solve this are a delid with liquid metal or undervolting. I had a 200eur watercooling loop, and the water wasn't getting any warmer, but the cpu kept skyrocketing to 80-90C at a medium OC. I delidded the thing on the second week. Surprisi
  9. As long as the airflow isn't adequate he could put any number of fans on the cooler, it wouldn't make a difference. I'd recommend using the cpu cooler with the stock fans, 2 corsairs as exhaust and 2 140mms as intake (in a case without extremely restrictive front panel). If you did end up buying the 280x, I think the bottom fan positions would be more beneficial (unless you have it on a carpet). With a bottom> top airflow the only "danger" is a hot air pocket above the gpu, but I think the aircooler would do a good job at stirring up that area. If you have some other case
  10. From what I've seen switches can be disassembled and cleaned even without soldering. They are probably bitches to assemble afterwards, but it's an option. These small manufacturers tend to catch you like that. They have unique layouts, so you'll keep buying them. I had a Trust mouse with 6 buttons along the top edges (aside from RMB LMB MMB), and a rapoo with 3 on the side in a line. It's not too difficult to readjust to a new, more widely adopted layout (2 side, or 2 side+snipe), it takes only a few days. spc gear seems to be really popular in my area. I'd recommend the logitech g4
  11. I'm sure you have tried vertical mice (like logitech mx vertical), otherwise you wouldn't have come to this conclusion, right? Do gloves help with your issue? How about the way you rest your arm? I guess money is not an issue, since apparently you would be down to pay for a one-off metal mouse by a major manufacturer. If so maybe there's some artisan in your area who could fabricate a few metal inserts for your chosen mouse. I'm thinking thin copper or aluminum plates on the problematic surfaces. A few holes in the plastic parts, little legs/pins on the corners/ sides of the plates. May
  12. Judging by the pictures on this aliexpress listing, looks like the switches can be disassembled, maybe cleaned or otherwise repaired. Looks like you could clean the little contacts with alcohol and cue tips or cotton swabs. With some small pliers and needles you could even try to bend the spring part ever so slightly to restore the contact force. I think this could be done without soldering. The mouse is far from being easy to open (I've done it twice). It needs to be pried pretty hard in the right spots. This video might come in handy. you could also replace the switch. The same
  13. i tried a cosmos, and i didn't like it, I bought it 35% off, but I still returned it. I don't think it's worth more than a used vive. The headset didn't fit me at all, the rubber thing at the nose left a huge gap under my eyes. I had to tighten the headband pretty strong, otherwise it would slide around on my head. It has a fan on the front which is pretty loud, and the headset still gets hot. The controllers are large and heavy. You need a PERFECT room for the tracking, specifically arranged for the cosmos. I guess it's gotta be large, with even bright lightin
  14. you should either leave it to dry for a week or so, preferably in a warm environment (though not in direct sunlight), or disassemble it, dry it with a few papertowels or something, then leave it to dry for about a day (again, preferably in a warm environment, not in sunlight). Disassembly would most likely involve removing a few screws, maybe the rubber feet (which often stick right back on). My cm mk750 is really easy to take apart, I'd be surprised if the ck550 was more complicated.
  15. 00RaZoR11


    that title killed me... you know what a title is, right?