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Go to solution Solved by GOTSpectrum,

 

my none thread ripper pc. for folding. is dead.

that had a decent gpu and cpu. be it i think gen 1 rzyen?

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16 hours ago, Bitter said:

Wrong way to do water cooling bud.

Lol my day would have been minimally impacted if the whole 1.5 litres of water was emptied from the watercooling loop 😉

Wouldn't have needed the shop-vac and dozens of towels at all!

 

 

Also managed to trip the breaker for the first time since moving the setup to the basement (North American 120V mains 😞 ). I had been avoiding running any heavy electronics (big ol' heater and other PCs) because of this. Yesterday this was completely out of my mind since the flooding was priority.

Nonetheless, yesterday I tripped the UPS by plugging in the dehumidifier and a heater into it without thinking that they would overload it. As expected it was not happy and relayed this by beeping at me. Realizing my mistake of plugging in a 1500W heater and a dehumidifier into a 1350VA unit, I changed outlets around with the use of extension cords. Then later on that evening after a bit of gaming, I decided to let the GPU do a WU. Dehumidifier and a heater were running full tilt at the time. CPU was already halfway through a 7hr WU, then the second the GPU started, I watched the input voltage (via the UPS and HWinfo) drop from 119V to 113V and thought oh no.... Before I could act, the mains voltage dropped even further to 88V and boom. Lights out. The UPS kept the WUs going while I reset the breaker even though it was beeping at me again.

 

So now I'm buying a Kilowatt meter to become more familiar with the power draw of more devices. 👍

Edited by Bianks84
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On 2/10/2023 at 12:48 PM, Bianks84 said:

Lol my day would have been minimally impacted if the whole 1.5 litres of water was emptied from the watercooling loop 😉

Wouldn't have needed the shop-vac and dozens of towels at all!

 

 

Also managed to trip the breaker for the first time since moving the setup to the basement (North American 120V mains 😞 ). I had been avoiding running any heavy electronics (big ol' heater and other PCs) because of this. Yesterday this was completely out of my mind since the flooding was priority.

Nonetheless, yesterday I tripped the UPS by plugging in the dehumidifier and a heater into it without thinking that they would overload it. As expected it was not happy and relayed this by beeping at me. Realizing my mistake of plugging in a 1500W heater and a dehumidifier into a 1350VA unit, I changed outlets around with the use of extension cords. Then later on that evening after a bit of gaming, I decided to let the GPU do a WU. Dehumidifier and a heater were running full tilt at the time. CPU was already halfway through a 7hr WU, then the second the GPU started, I watched the input voltage (via the UPS and HWinfo) drop from 119V to 113V and thought oh no.... Before I could act, the mains voltage dropped even further to 88V and boom. Lights out. The UPS kept the WUs going while I reset the breaker even though it was beeping at me again.

 

So now I'm buying a Kilowatt meter to become more familiar with the power draw of more devices. 👍

Sounds like the UPS and Heater and Dehumidifier were all on the same 15A/1800W circuit.  You should map out which outlets are on which breakers in the basement.  I use a sharpie and write the breaker no. on the faceplates. Luckily I’ve got 4 separate 15A circuits in the basement so I can distribute the load from folding across them.

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8 minutes ago, Gorgon said:

Sounds like the UPS and Heater and Dehumidifier were all on the same 15A/1800W circuit.  You should map out which outlets are on which breakers in the basement.  I use a sharpie and write the breaker no. on the faceplates. Luckily I’ve got 4 separate 15A circuits in the basement so I can distribute the lad from folding across them.

You're absolutely right, which is why I've been expecting this for a while aha.

Unfortunately all of the plugs and lights are on the same circuit for the entire basement. I think it might even include a single plug on the main floor too.

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5 hours ago, Bianks84 said:

You're absolutely right, which is why I've been expecting this for a while aha.

Unfortunately all of the plugs and lights are on the same circuit for the entire basement. I think it might even include a single plug on the main floor too.

Ugg. Lazy electrician syndrome or bad electrical designer.

 

There might be an outlet on a separate circuit for a washing machine. At least the Canadian Electrical Code calls for that, and I'd imagine the US is similar.

 

I even have an old 240V circuit sitting idle from the original Hot Water Heater, which was replaced by a gas one many many years ago but if I wanted to use that I'd either have to get some 240V UPSes (which are hard to find and expensive here) or replace the 12/2 cable with a 12/3 so I can split it into 2 120V circuits.

 

Mid you my house was built in the mid 70s and uses Aluminum wiring!  I've "pig-tailed" it so it's much safer now though and where I could get at it I've replaced the Aluminum with Copper wiring.

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6 hours ago, Gorgon said:

Ugg. Lazy electrician syndrome or bad electrical designer.

 

There might be an outlet on a separate circuit for a washing machine. At least the Canadian Electrical Code calls for that, and I'd imagine the US is similar.

 

I even have an old 240V circuit sitting idle from the original Hot Water Heater, which was replaced by a gas one many many years ago but if I wanted to use that I'd either have to get some 240V UPSes (which are hard to find and expensive here) or replace the 12/2 cable with a 12/3 so I can split it into 2 120V circuits.

 

Mid you my house was built in the mid 70s and uses Aluminum wiring!  I've "pig-tailed" it so it's much safer now though and where I could get at it I've replaced the Aluminum with Copper wiring.

Sadly, it is fairly common to see a single "utility" circuit run through a whole unfinished basement...then somebody be lazy later and say "oh, there's already power here" as they do more than leave it an empty basement for storage.  I blame the later folks in those cases though, rather than the original electrician that was just meeting code for outlet spacing in non-living space.  Fortunately, in most basements, it is pretty easy to just run another circuit to a new breaker.

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15 hours ago, Gorgon said:

Mid you my house was built in the mid 70s and uses Aluminum wiring!

😵😱 Holy crap I didn't even know that was a thing!

 

15 hours ago, Gorgon said:

There might be an outlet on a separate circuit for a washing machine. At least the Canadian Electrical Code calls for that, and I'd imagine the US is similar.

Yeah there are two 240V outlets in our laundry room, one for a dryer and the other is unused by a stove. We had the one for a stove put in at some point before we renovated the main floor so we could live in the basement during that. So it may share the same circuit as the dryer. I'm not sure, but either way the rooms are separated with too much space for a practical solution to exist. 😞

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Evidently I'm dumb and didn't realize that H370 can't do PCIe bifurcation. All the x4 M.2 PCIe risers look like fire hazards unless I solder wires directly to them for power from Molex. I just assumed it could for some reason, likely because my H97 board can. Oh well.

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13 hours ago, Justaphf said:

Just realized I hit my 10x diamond badge today!  Still a bit shy of 100k WUs though.

image.thumb.png.6f8f9e7065e820847c1424b72eceb898.png

bruh

It's entirely possible that I misinterpreted/misread your topic and/or question. This happens more often than I care to admit. Apologies in advance.

 

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Stupid GFI outlet tripped for no reason and killed 3/4 of my home network so I lost a day and like 20 minutes of wtf is happening. Code be damned this is it's 3rd strike. I'll try a hospital grade GFI or something more upscale I guess but if it happens again it's getting a standard outlet.

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On 2/15/2023 at 11:32 PM, Justaphf said:

Just realized I hit my 10x diamond badge today!  Still a bit shy of 100k WUs though.

image.thumb.png.6f8f9e7065e820847c1424b72eceb898.png

fah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.png

fah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.png

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1 hour ago, TVwazhere said:

fah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.png

fah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.pngfah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.png

should we just introduce counters on the badge at this point?
fah-diamond.png.f51a9615ec103238c01f8a0abcd84332.png.dd435daa098197c03a5c472c0fa4f035.png

professionally created in paint!

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The array looks more baller 😛

 

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On 2/16/2023 at 1:09 PM, Bitter said:

Stupid GFI outlet tripped for no reason and killed 3/4 of my home network so I lost a day and like 20 minutes of wtf is happening. Code be damned this is it's 3rd strike. I'll try a hospital grade GFI or something more upscale I guess but if it happens again it's getting a standard outlet.

I've had a few GFCIs fail over the years.

Arcing.thumb.jpg.2ed9a71c613d3d08a8356a7edb3c55f6.jpg

 

GFCIs are usually installed for a good reason. There's likely an outlet within a few feet of water downstream of it so best to leave it alone and avoid liability in the eyes of Insurance and/or the Law.

 

In the above case the issue was the poor quality of the contacts in this Builder/Homeowner grade outlet leading to poor contact with the plug and subsequent arcing due to load. What I ended up doing here was to replace the GFCI with a Commercial Grade outlet and retrofitting a GFCI outlet in the downstream Powder Room that it was feeding.

 

Better to map out your electrical outlets and the load on them and find circuits that have sufficient excess capacity to handle the load of your folding rig(s) and supporting infrastructure. This might mean having to move the systems to where power is available.

 

Depending on the age of your home and how the wiring was laid out you might have to bite the bullet and get an Electrician to install additional circuits.

 

If your pulling more load consider getting an Electrician to replace the Builder/Homeowner Grade outlets with Commercial Grade outlets that are built better and are rated for more insertions and longer life.

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48 minutes ago, Gorgon said:

I've had a few GFCIs fail over the years.

 

 

GFCIs are usually installed for a good reason. There's likely an outlet within a few feet of water downstream of it so best to leave it alone and avoid liability in the eyes of Insurance and/or the Law.

 

In the above case the issue was the poor quality of the contacts in this Builder/Homeowner grade outlet leading to poor contact with the plug and subsequent arcing due to load. What I ended up doing here was to replace the GFCI with a Commercial Grade outlet and retrofitting a GFCI outlet in the downstream Powder Room that it was feeding.

 

Better to map out your electrical outlets and the load on them and find circuits that have sufficient excess capacity to handle the load of your folding rig(s) and supporting infrastructure. This might mean having to move the systems to where power is available.

 

Depending on the age of your home and how the wiring was laid out you might have to bite the bullet and get an Electrician to install additional circuits.

 

If your pulling more load consider getting an Electrician to replace the Builder/Homeowner Grade outlets with Commercial Grade outlets that are built better and are rated for more insertions and longer life.

This is a 15 amp circuit with a single 2 outlet box installed directly on the bottom of the breaker panel in the basement about 4ft off the floor with a single surge protector plugged into with a single 8 port network switch plugged into it. Home is from 2005. I think I'm just suffering from 'builder-grade-itis' and a low quality part. I bought a $22 20A hospital grade Leviton GFCI outlet for it, $7 cheaper than the 15A. Heavy duty nickel plated brass power bar across the back of it and extra terminal tension and reinforced sockets for more clamp on the contacts and less heating. Fingers crossed!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019A3025A

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

This is a 15 amp circuit with a single 2 outlet box installed directly on the bottom of the breaker panel in the basement about 4ft off the floor with a single surge protector plugged into with a single 8 port network switch plugged into it. Home is from 2005. I think I'm just suffering from 'builder-grade-itis' and a low quality part. I bought a $22 20A hospital grade Leviton GFCI outlet for it, $7 cheaper than the 15A. Heavy duty nickel plated brass power bar across the back of it and extra terminal tension and reinforced sockets for more clamp on the contacts and less heating. Fingers crossed!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019A3025A

Hmm. a 20A rated outlet on a circuit likely fed with 14 AWG wire likely on a 15A Breaker? Assuming nothing else is on that circuit then you should upgrade the breaker to 20A and the wiring to 12AWG also. Or just use a 15A Industrial/Commercial Grade. No need for the Hospital Grade.

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1 hour ago, Gorgon said:

Hmm. a 20A rated outlet on a circuit likely fed with 14 AWG wire likely on a 15A Breaker? Assuming nothing else is on that circuit then you should upgrade the breaker to 20A and the wiring to 12AWG also. Or just use a 15A Industrial/Commercial Grade. No need for the Hospital Grade.

It's already delivered 🙂

Having an outlet rated higher than the breaker and wiring is fine, the other way around is not fine. Since this outlet only services the network switch I don't see any need to upgrade the wiring or the breaker. When I add a dedicated high capacity outlet on the other side of the basement I'll set it up with 20 amp or 30 amp and appropriate wire gauge and some double gang boxes.

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1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Having an outlet rated higher than the breaker and wiring is fine,

Until someone plugs in a 20A device. You are correct in that the worst that will happen if they draw more than 15A is the breaker will trip rather than the wire melting.

 

So you are correct in that you can, likely safely do that but doing so likely contravenes the Electrical Code.

 

See here

 

And you can pretty much guarantee that if your house burns down for an unrelated reason and your Insurance Company finds out you did something that contravenes the Electrical Code they will not pay out. Yes, you may win in court after 5-10 years of Legal battles but you will be living in a Trailer Park in the interim and making Lawyers richer in the interim.

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Bifrost - 6 GPU Folding Rig  Linux Folding HOWTO Folding Remote Access Folding GPU Profiling ToU Scheduling UPS

Systems:

desktop: Lian-Li O11 Air Mini; Asus ProArt x670 WiFi; Ryzen 9 7950x; EVGA 240 CLC; 4 x 32GB DDR5-5600; 2 x Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe3 NVMe; 2 x 8TB NAS; AMD FirePro W4100; MSI 4070 Ti Super Ventus 2; Corsair SF750

nas1: Fractal Node 804; SuperMicro X10sl7-f; Xeon e3-1231v3; 4 x 8GB DDR3-1666 ECC; 2 x 250GB Samsung EVO Pro SSD; 7 x 4TB Seagate NAS; Corsair HX650i

nas2: Synology DS-123j; 2 x 6TB WD Red Plus NAS

nas3: Synology DS-224+; 2 x 12TB Seagate NAS

dcn01: Fractal Meshify S2; Gigabyte Aorus ax570 Master; Ryzen 9 5900x; Noctua NH-D15; 4 x 16GB DDR4-3200; 512GB NVMe; 2 x Zotac AMP 4070ti; Corsair RM750Mx

dcn02: Fractal Meshify S2; Gigabyte ax570 Pro WiFi; Ryzen 9 3950x; Noctua NH-D15; 2 x 16GB DDR4-3200; 128GB NVMe; 2 x Zotac AMP 4070ti; Corsair RM750x

dcn03: Fractal Meshify C; Gigabyte Aorus z370 Gaming 5; i9-9900k; BeQuiet! PureRock 2 Black; 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400; 128GB SATA m.2; MSI 4070 Ti Super Gaming X; MSI 4070 Ti Super Ventus 2; Corsair TX650m

dcn05: Fractal Define S; Gigabyte Aorus b450m; Ryzen 7 2700; AMD Wraith; 2 x 8GB DDR 4-3200; 128GB SATA NVMe; Gigabyte Gaming RTX 4080 Super; Corsair TX750m

dcn06: Fractal Focus G Mini; Gigabyte Aorus b450m; Ryzen 7 2700; AMD Wraith; 2 x 8GB DDR 4-3200; 128GB SSD; Gigabyte Gaming RTX 4080 Super; Corsair CX650m

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7 minutes ago, Gorgon said:

Until someone plugs in a 20A device. You are correct in that the worst that will happen if they draw more than 15A is the breaker will trip rather than the wire melting.

 

So you are correct in that you can, likely safely do that but doing so likely contravenes the Electrical Code.

 

See here

 

And you can pretty much guarantee that if your house burns down for an unrelated reason and your Insurance Company finds out you did something that contravenes the Electrical Code they will not pay out. Yes, you may win in court after 5-10 years of Legal battles but you will be living in a Trailer Park in the interim and making Lawyers richer in the interim.

There's literally a 5W network switch connected to it. I'm sure it'll be fine. There's not a single possible way outside of intentional sabotage that the circuit will be pulling anything close to 15A. And yes, if I did somehow draw more than 1875W from the outlet the breaker will trip. But before that the power strip would trip it's breaker. I think it'll be ok.

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14 minutes ago, Bitter said:

There's literally a 5W network switch connected to it. I'm sure it'll be fine. There's not a single possible way outside of intentional sabotage that the circuit will be pulling anything close to 15A. And yes, if I did somehow draw more than 1875W from the outlet the breaker will trip. But before that the power strip would trip it's breaker. I think it'll be ok.

Further reading suggests that while technically if it is the only device (and possibly only a simplex rather than duplex) on the breaker in the US it is allowed under the Electrical Code but not encouraged.

 

"It's the Government, it doesn't have to make sense."

FaH BOINC HfM

Bifrost - 6 GPU Folding Rig  Linux Folding HOWTO Folding Remote Access Folding GPU Profiling ToU Scheduling UPS

Systems:

desktop: Lian-Li O11 Air Mini; Asus ProArt x670 WiFi; Ryzen 9 7950x; EVGA 240 CLC; 4 x 32GB DDR5-5600; 2 x Samsung 980 Pro 500GB PCIe3 NVMe; 2 x 8TB NAS; AMD FirePro W4100; MSI 4070 Ti Super Ventus 2; Corsair SF750

nas1: Fractal Node 804; SuperMicro X10sl7-f; Xeon e3-1231v3; 4 x 8GB DDR3-1666 ECC; 2 x 250GB Samsung EVO Pro SSD; 7 x 4TB Seagate NAS; Corsair HX650i

nas2: Synology DS-123j; 2 x 6TB WD Red Plus NAS

nas3: Synology DS-224+; 2 x 12TB Seagate NAS

dcn01: Fractal Meshify S2; Gigabyte Aorus ax570 Master; Ryzen 9 5900x; Noctua NH-D15; 4 x 16GB DDR4-3200; 512GB NVMe; 2 x Zotac AMP 4070ti; Corsair RM750Mx

dcn02: Fractal Meshify S2; Gigabyte ax570 Pro WiFi; Ryzen 9 3950x; Noctua NH-D15; 2 x 16GB DDR4-3200; 128GB NVMe; 2 x Zotac AMP 4070ti; Corsair RM750x

dcn03: Fractal Meshify C; Gigabyte Aorus z370 Gaming 5; i9-9900k; BeQuiet! PureRock 2 Black; 2 x 8GB DDR4-2400; 128GB SATA m.2; MSI 4070 Ti Super Gaming X; MSI 4070 Ti Super Ventus 2; Corsair TX650m

dcn05: Fractal Define S; Gigabyte Aorus b450m; Ryzen 7 2700; AMD Wraith; 2 x 8GB DDR 4-3200; 128GB SATA NVMe; Gigabyte Gaming RTX 4080 Super; Corsair TX750m

dcn06: Fractal Focus G Mini; Gigabyte Aorus b450m; Ryzen 7 2700; AMD Wraith; 2 x 8GB DDR 4-3200; 128GB SSD; Gigabyte Gaming RTX 4080 Super; Corsair CX650m

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We've had some pretty warm weather here lately, so I haven't been running F@h on as many GPUs as I'd like to. It's starting to cool back down a bit, so I've got some more cards folding. Right now I'm folding on the following hardware:

  • HP OEM RTX 2070 Super 8GB
  • Dell OEM RTX 2070 8GB
  • Dell OEM GTX 1660 Ti 6GB
  • PNY Quadro P4000 8GB
  • HP OEM GT 1030 2GB
  • Intel Core i5-2400 (4 cores)

 

For now everything has been working perfectly. The Core i5-2400 has been folding almost nonstop for over a year now, and it still gets over 30K PPD. It's in an old iMac that handles some networking tasks, so that's the only reason I'm folding on it. The GPUs are doing fine as well, including the zombie RTX 2070 Super. The only GPU I'm not continuously folding on at the moment is the GTX 1660 Ti, and that's just because it's so damn loud. It has a tiny heatsink and a single fan. The GPU temps aren't bad, but the VRAM temps aren't great since the chips don't even touch the heatsink, though for folding that's not an issue. I really can't complain much though since I bought this card for only $75 brand new back in September 2021. At that time the same cards were actually selling on eBay for around $400, which is insane. 

Phobos: AMD Ryzen 7 2700, 16GB 3000MHz DDR4, ASRock B450 Steel Legend, 8GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070, 2GB Nvidia GeForce GT 1030, 1TB Samsung SSD 980, 450W Corsair CXM, Corsair Carbide 175R, Windows 10 Pro

 

Polaris: Intel Xeon E5-2697 v2, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASRock X79 Extreme6, 12GB Nvidia GeForce RTX 3080, 6GB Nvidia GeForce GTX 1660 Ti, 1TB Crucial MX500, 750W Corsair RM750, Antec SX635, Windows 10 Pro

 

Pluto: Intel Core i7-2600, 32GB 1600MHz DDR3, ASUS P8Z68-V, 4GB XFX AMD Radeon RX 570, 8GB ASUS AMD Radeon RX 570, 1TB Samsung 860 EVO, 3TB Seagate BarraCuda, 750W EVGA BQ, Fractal Design Focus G, Windows 10 Pro for Workstations

 

York (NAS): Intel Core i5-2400, 16GB 1600MHz DDR3, HP Compaq OEM, 240GB Kingston V300 (boot), 3x2TB Seagate BarraCuda, 320W HP PSU, HP Compaq 6200 Pro, TrueNAS CORE (12.0)

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