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Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

techswede
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26 minutes ago, Drak3 said:

Don't lump me in with them. I'm an enthusiast of mechanic design, be it engines, weaponry, or productive machinery. Not a guy with a wrench that reads the marketing garbage AFE/insert other "enthusiast" brand that can't legally warranty half of their products.

 

I fail to see a correlation between people screeching variations of "forced induction is more efficient!!! Reclaimed energy!!!" and anything I've said.

If you can't be civil. Please leave

 

Edit. That goes for everyone in the thread

42 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Hmm probably won't help with that but it's cheap to try. I'd bank on an ignition component and you're loosing spark sometimes, unless it's a fuel pump. Really anyone's guess without a trouble code or having some test equipment on it to catch it failing.

I forgot about the OBD system, the local auto parts stores used to let you borrow one for free, but since the pandemic....

Any suggestions on an inexpensive one? I can always pull the codes myself

NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. 

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5 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

ANyone ever used Seafoam? I see some videos touting it as the best thing ever, and others saying not so much.

I assume it depends on the level of filth in the engine. 

I heard of it back in the day on car forums before everyone was getting paid to advertise stuff. Its good, I wouldn't ever recommend pouring any type of cleaner inside the engine unless you want to pull off the oil pan shortly after. It will clean it, then everything gets caught in the oil pickup and starves the engine for oil.

 

Top end stuff, like letting it run through a vacuum line is fine though.

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4 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

I forgot about the OBD system, the local auto parts stores used to let you borrow one for free, but since the pandemic....

Any suggestions on an inexpensive one? I can always pull the codes myself

I would assume you're in America but Suzuki has a bigger international reach but I suspect this is probably sold world wide. I have a cheaper Launch brand 8001 scan tool at work for quick stuff when the big snapon is in use or if I need to pull a code at home, it was $80 when I bought it and frankly it felt $10 overpriced then. Now it's $200 and absolutely not worth it. I had a $30 CReader 6 or 7 before it and that was worth it, the 8001 and Creader are equally as slow for live data, but the 8001 can do a few other things besides codes and data but nothing you'd want to or need to do on the Reno. Some codes can point you in the right direction but just a code is not a diagnosis.

 

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1 hour ago, vetali said:

I heard of it back in the day on car forums before everyone was getting paid to advertise stuff. Its good, I wouldn't ever recommend pouring any type of cleaner inside the engine unless you want to pull off the oil pan shortly after. It will clean it, then everything gets caught in the oil pickup and starves the engine for oil.

 

Top end stuff, like letting it run through a vacuum line is fine though.

Eh if it's so heavily sludged that seafoam knocks enough stuff loose to clog the oil pickup then a fresh oil change was going to do the same thing.

I've used it in oil a few times in a personal vehicle just to scrub up some varnish off ring grooves but yeah primary use is top end cleaner and for piston ring soaks as a hail mary on low compression against varnished rings.

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8 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

ANyone ever used Seafoam? I see some videos touting it as the best thing ever, and others saying not so much.

I assume it depends on the level of filth in the engine. 

I think it works I just think it requires a lot more than 1 can 1 time to really get things clean. Like if you did it once a week for like 2 months it would make a nice difference. 

I personally feel like you should save your money on doing this and spend it on removing the intake manifold, and give everything a nice deep cleaning by hand, put fresh gaskets and get it all back together. maybe do this @ 150k miles or so or if there is some issue that requires taking things apart between 100-150k. 

It's more work and it costs more, but well worth it me thinks, if you want to keep the car for a very long time anyway.

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1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

I think it works I just think it requires a lot more than 1 can 1 time to really get things clean. Like if you did it once a week for like 2 months it would make a nice difference. 

I personally feel like you should save your money on doing this and spend it on removing the intake manifold, and give everything a nice deep cleaning by hand, put fresh gaskets and get it all back together. maybe do this @ 150k miles or so or if there is some issue that requires taking things apart between 100-150k. 

It's more work and it costs more, but well worth it me thinks, if you want to keep the car for a very long time anyway.

For the issue on the FS I had (not an uncommon one with gently driven cars) the official fix is to pull the cylinder head. Well that wasn't happening, so top end cleaner in a can it was! It worked enough to get rid of her engine ping going up hills and brought back some missing gas mileage. We did it again about 6 months later and it didn't make things any better since it was still fixed. I water cleaned the chambers a couple times about 40-50k miles ago and I've done a couple piston soaks too. Last time I looked the piston crowns I could see just a very thin layer of carbon but could read some numbers on them, didn't have any way to look upward but I'm sure it's pretty clean up there too. Did use some GDI cleaner on the GF's 16 Escape 1.6 Turbo and it didn't make any noticeable difference but it didn't have any issues either, just wanted to make sure any buildup was beaten down early on. Idled and performed the same as ever.

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19 hours ago, NOV654 said:

Not into cars myself but my dad is and I thought I'll show you his pride and joy.

C reg Ford Escort

It looks like this

Genuine S1 RS turbo? My dad had a B reg back in the day

14717912518831226459456.thumb.jpg.6d6da74c15443b239ddf28109f7a92e8.jpg

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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10 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

Genuine S1 RS turbo? My dad had a B reg back in the day

snip

yeah

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19 hours ago, Radium_Angel said:

I forgot about the OBD system, the local auto parts stores used to let you borrow one for free, but since the pandemic....

Any suggestions on an inexpensive one? I can always pull the codes myself

I've got one of the "Fixd" sensors and it's pretty damn handy. Can normally be found on sale for $30

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59 minutes ago, Unforgiving said:

any love for a really obscure japanese 7 seat luxobarge?

 

 

 

 

That's hot

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44 minutes ago, RevoltTrain said:

That's hot

Yeah came from Japan with DAD headrest monitors and a power inverter

 

put me ps2 in it 

 


 

32A80AB1-6394-44C3-A9F0-85D14E98356A.jpeg

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43 minutes ago, Unforgiving said:

put me ps2 in it

Throwback to the max power days

Needs money for car parts :P

 

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i finally got enough of my Tesla, right now in wait for parts for another big repair round on my 2021 march Model 3 LR, so called my company car contact, and he said he would offer me an exchange.. i´m just a bit insecure on what too buy, because it is a company car it has to be electric, all others are simply to expensive.. and with Danish taxation rules, it becomes complex, because plug-in are higher taxed and ICE cars are 150% taxated, whereas pure electrical are without tax.

 

so my list is

 

Polestar 2 LR Dual motor (with everything just not the performance pack) - Smaller cargo area, less range.

Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD LR

Hyundai Ionic 5 AWD LR

Q4 50 E-tron (Or Skoda enyaq)

C300E Estate - it has the 25KWh battery and the 2xx hp engine. so a plugin

Ford Mustang LR

Xc40 P8 but it might have too little range

 

Wanted a V60 Recharge, but with my inscription pack, it just reached a cost, that i am not willing to pay, it is the same "price" as the Electrics, but the compensation is just giant.

 

I´ve removed the Mustang, really do not like the car, not because of the brand, but it just feels firm.

 

I´m leaning towards the Kia / Hyundai, especially the Ionic 5, just a bit afraid that the power is a bit to low on that car, i am happy with the output of the tesla, and there is a LONG waiting time for it, and my temporary car, will be a E300 i will borrow, so if i have that for too long, i´m sure i will fall in love.

 

I have our second car, the Polo GTI from 2019 with the manual 6 speed, so i have a "bit" of fun in "wifecar". even though it is only 200Bhp.

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29 minutes ago, RasmusDC said:

i finally got enough of my Tesla, right now in wait for parts for another big repair round on my 2021 march Model 3 LR, so called my company car contact, and he said he would offer me an exchange.. i´m just a bit insecure on what too buy, because it is a company car it has to be electric, all others are simply to expensive.. and with Danish taxation rules, it becomes complex, because plug-in are higher taxed and ICE cars are 150% taxated, whereas pure electrical are without tax.

 

so my list is

 

Polestar 2 LR Dual motor (with everything just not the performance pack) - Smaller cargo area, less range.

Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD LR

Hyundai Ionic 5 AWD LR

Q4 50 E-tron (Or Skoda enyaq)

C300E Estate - it has the 25KWh battery and the 2xx hp engine. so a plugin

Ford Mustang LR

Xc40 P8 but it might have too little range

 

Wanted a V60 Recharge, but with my inscription pack, it just reached a cost, that i am not willing to pay, it is the same "price" as the Electrics, but the compensation is just giant.

 

I´ve removed the Mustang, really do not like the car, not because of the brand, but it just feels firm.

 

I´m leaning towards the Kia / Hyundai, especially the Ionic 5, just a bit afraid that the power is a bit to low on that car, i am happy with the output of the tesla, and there is a LONG waiting time for it, and my temporary car, will be a E300 i will borrow, so if i have that for too long, i´m sure i will fall in love.

 

I have our second car, the Polo GTI from 2019 with the manual 6 speed, so i have a "bit" of fun in "wifecar". even though it is only 200Bhp.

Heard good things about the Ionic 5 and the EV6

Needs money for car parts :P

 

System specs: Core i7 9700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 , MSI Z390 PRO, 16GB CORSAIR VENGENCE DDR4 3000, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, Corsair AX860, Seagate 1TB, Sandisk 240GB SSD, Corsair 400c

 

My Steam Profile (from SteamDB)

 

  • Worth: £654 (£221 with sales)
  • Games owned: 62
  • Games played: 52 (83%)
  • Hours on record: 2,980.7h

 

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2 hours ago, iDeFecZx said:

Throwback to the max power days

 

Playing Underground 2 in your riced out Clio were the golden days.

"an obvious supporter of privacy"

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20 minutes ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

Playing Underground 2 in your riced out Clio were the golden days.

Riders on the storm intensifies 

Needs money for car parts :P

 

System specs: Core i7 9700k, Dark Rock Pro 4 , MSI Z390 PRO, 16GB CORSAIR VENGENCE DDR4 3000, EVGA GTX 1070 FTW, Corsair AX860, Seagate 1TB, Sandisk 240GB SSD, Corsair 400c

 

My Steam Profile (from SteamDB)

 

  • Worth: £654 (£221 with sales)
  • Games owned: 62
  • Games played: 52 (83%)
  • Hours on record: 2,980.7h

 

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12 minutes ago, iDeFecZx said:

Riders on the storm intensifies 

oh the memories .... 

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1 hour ago, RasmusDC said:

i finally got enough of my Tesla, right now in wait for parts for another big repair round on my 2021 march Model 3 LR, so called my company car contact, and he said he would offer me an exchange.. i´m just a bit insecure on what too buy, because it is a company car it has to be electric, all others are simply to expensive.. and with Danish taxation rules, it becomes complex, because plug-in are higher taxed and ICE cars are 150% taxated, whereas pure electrical are without tax.

 

so my list is

 

Polestar 2 LR Dual motor (with everything just not the performance pack) - Smaller cargo area, less range.

Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD LR

Hyundai Ionic 5 AWD LR

Q4 50 E-tron (Or Skoda enyaq)

C300E Estate - it has the 25KWh battery and the 2xx hp engine. so a plugin

Ford Mustang LR

Xc40 P8 but it might have too little range

 

Wanted a V60 Recharge, but with my inscription pack, it just reached a cost, that i am not willing to pay, it is the same "price" as the Electrics, but the compensation is just giant.

 

I´ve removed the Mustang, really do not like the car, not because of the brand, but it just feels firm.

 

I´m leaning towards the Kia / Hyundai, especially the Ionic 5, just a bit afraid that the power is a bit to low on that car, i am happy with the output of the tesla, and there is a LONG waiting time for it, and my temporary car, will be a E300 i will borrow, so if i have that for too long, i´m sure i will fall in love.

 

I have our second car, the Polo GTI from 2019 with the manual 6 speed, so i have a "bit" of fun in "wifecar". even though it is only 200Bhp.

I’m a level 4 high voltage technician, and work for a company which attends people at the side of the road. 
 

I’ve driven most of these in my working life. 
 

get the polestar. I actually loved the polestar. It’s Volvo enough that it’s trustworthy, enough of a competitor that it isn’t dwarfed by the model 3 hype, and one flippin’ handsome looking car 

 

I actually nearly ordered one through a company car scheme but it was too expensive for my blood lol 

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2 hours ago, RasmusDC said:

especially the Ionic 5, just a bit afraid that the power is a bit to low on that car, i am happy with the output of the tesla

Genuine question, for every day driving how much does it actually matter with the power difference? I drive with lead-footed often enough but I can be content with 'enough' power output, but not 100% sure how much of a difference it makes on an EV.

.

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Swapped out my bad DWS 06 tire for the new DWS 06 Plus. Big difference in sidewall between the two of them, I feel like the plus is a much better tire and the 06 was a big improvement over the original DWS.

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2 hours ago, AlwaysFSX said:

Genuine question, for every day driving how much does it actually matter with the power difference? I drive with lead-footed often enough but I can be content with 'enough' power output, but not 100% sure how much of a difference it makes on an EV.

 

Go buy yourself a Model S Plaid. You know you need 1000hp for daily duties. Plus, you get to struggle very hard with maneuveuring and to crash very easily if anything unexpected happens. Win win, right?

"an obvious supporter of privacy"

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Two bad motorad thermostats and a bad NAPA brand thermostat later... Rockauto sent my two wrong brand thermo stats today, and the NAPA one were all defective out the box...

 

Thank God I also ordered a Tama one... What a waste of time today.

 

Anyone ever order off those OEM Mazda websites? Never have cause the prices always higher than what is OEM quality from rockauto. Definitely a learning process on what to get OEM and what not to...

Corsair 4000D RGB

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3 hours ago, JoaoPRSousa said:

 

Go buy yourself a Model S Plaid. You know you need 1000hp for daily duties. Plus, you get to struggle very hard with maneuveuring and to crash very easily if anything unexpected happens. Win win, right?

I can't wait to break one doing what I do lmao

.

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