Rainbrew

https://www.rtings.com/monitor/tests/picture-quality/black-uniformity
Sure, you won't get the exact same unit as rtings tested, there can be variance (sometimes a lot) between each unit... but at least you have a starting point to pick from.

If light bleeding is an issue, IPS glow is common and it is based on luck, either. to over come this two issue, you should save more budget and get OLED monitor, only OLED no light bleeding issue and normally very uniformity screen, unless you are very unlucky get the one with bad uniformity, but this is unlikely to happen.

I think you're right with the 10 bit thing. I found a setting in the monitor that disables DSC and it fixed the green things popping up entirely both in the bios and in Windows regardless of the CSM setting. So it actually might be the monitor after all. I'll try to figure out with the store I got the monitor from if this is normal. I'm not sure how to diagnose the problem if it's on the GPU side without another DSC monitor.
 
Thanks so much for your help I'll give you the epic gamer solution checkmark as soon as I hear back from the store. 🙂

The cable could be the issue. Included cables are not always high quality ones. If the problem persists after switching out the cable check for a newer firmware for the monitor. If the problem still persists, you have a defective unit.
 
That is vignetting. A very common issue on LED backlit monitors like the G7.
 
Vignetting - like backlight bleed and IPS glow - vary from unit to unit. All of these issues are normal to some degree, but if it's too distracting to you, contacting your retailer for a replacement is the only thing you can do. There's no guarantee that the new monitor will be better though.
 
Curved displays are more prone to backlight bleed, uniformity issues and so on. Maybe that's why your older monitor didn't have these issues.
 
If possible, go for a wall-mount. It'll also free up more desk space as a bonus.

The way that it is currently configured.

Hello, I managed to move my PC build from a Pure Base 500dx white to a Torrent Compact. I initially wanted to go for a black/white theme but ended up changing my mind after having some resonance issues with the Noctua case fans I intended on using in the build. I also went ahead and bought my first set of custom sleeved cables to make the build a bit easier.
 
I figured that I'd manage ok with the stiffer Modmesh Pro cables from Cablemod because I figured they'd be easier to deal with than the cables with inline capacitors I had included in my PSU. While they are more flexible the cable management in this case is hell incarnate and given the choice again I'd 100% go for the Paracord modflex cables instead. It legitimately took me 7h of cable management to get the side panel on the cable side to close without the glass bulging.
 
That being said the build is 90% complete minus the GPU and considering this is my second build following my pure base 500dx one I'm pretty happy with it. I'm looking for any feedback/advice/opinions. Thanks in advance!
 
Specs:
Mobo: Asus x570 Tuf Pro Gaming Wifi 
CPU: Ryzen 7 5800x
CPU cooler: Noctua NH-D15 Chromax
Ram: 2x16gb 3600mhz CL17 DDR4 IRDM PRO White by Goodram (small EU company, decent products, might swap later for 2x8gb of faster ram because I noticed I never came close to using 32gb)
Case: Fractal Torrent Compact RGB Light Tint (+ 1x Prisma AL-12 ARGB PWM fan)
PSU: Corsair RM750x with Cablemod Pro Modmesh Carbon
GPU: MSI GTX 1060 6GB (will swap for something faster when prices are normal)

Bionix have a different, but similar problem, Their greatest strength (rubberized design), produces some problems (mainly increases user error for case/radiator mounting), when screws are tightened too much, and in some situations when there's obstruction on the intake (depending on the grill/mesh/filter) it produces weird frequency noise not detected by basic dB/dBA measurement. It will all show up on a noise Spectrum Analysis though. 
 
For instance even though they're are rubberized some of the new Thermalright fans have the same issue.
 
https://www.hwcooling.net/en/arctic-bionix-f120-the-efficient-fan-that-lost-the-fight-with-obstacles/
 
The guys above do Frequency response analysis with fans (same like GamersNexus will do soon). They're also one of the very rare who do vibration testing with a 3D vibration tester. As well testing filters, and a huge amount of data sets for different types of situations and obstacles (Even more than GamersNexus plans to do at start).
 
I didn't even notice before they did grill testing as well (with Sound colour metrics), which matches the Silverstone article :
 
https://www.hwcooling.net/en/analysis-a-hexagonal-grille-is-no-match-for-a-circular-one-in-any-way/
 
https://www.silverstonetek.com/techtalk_cont.php?tid=wh_chessis&area=usa

I FIGURED IT OUT. I played with the fan settings in my bios til I heard the noise and I discovered that at certain speeds the air flow induces resonance in the top of the case (nowhere else). The rest is fairly bulky in the be quiet 500dx but the top part is mounted with a few rivets and is a fairly thin piece of metal with a triangular grille. I don't have a top exhaust fan so I'll see if I can somehow cover those vents and if it'll stop making the noise.

I FIGURED IT OUT. I played with the fan settings in my bios til I heard the noise and I discovered that at certain speeds the air flow induces resonance in the top of the case (nowhere else). The rest is fairly bulky in the be quiet 500dx but the top part is mounted with a few rivets and is a fairly thin piece of metal with a triangular grille. I don't have a top exhaust fan so I'll see if I can somehow cover those vents and if it'll stop making the noise.

And I thought the 5800x ran hot...

I see I think I slightly overestimated what refresh rate / resolution was standard atm. I'll have to do a bit more research on my own in that case, tyvm!

at 1440p 120Hz, no. In Red Dead 2 the 3090 and 6900XT both hit 144fps only in high settings. You can only spend way too much when there's a fastest option that handles the requirement in every popular game

It's not very well labelled, but the peripherals & SATA are the all the 6 pin ones and PCIe & CPU are the 8 pin ones. The 8 pins on the left of the PCIe & CPU label are for the PCIe & CPU. You physically cannot plug in one of the PCIe cables into the SATA connector ones on the PSU end. 

Sorry for pinging again, I have another update! This was a very weird one, I set out to discover why my rear I/O shield was slightly bent and noticed that it was snagging on the Bios flashback button on the motherboard. I have no clue how this passed quality control at Asus, but it did and because of the button being permanently pressed in it delayed the PC turn on (sometimes). After some gentle persuasion (drill) I made the hole slightly bigger for the button to fit without touching it and now the whole thing boots instantly!

Just a quick update, the problem randomly fixed itself for no reason without me doing anything at all!

Absolutely

I've been using the same tube of MX-4, and my ArctiClean kit at home for the past 8 years. You're fine.

Hey everyone, so I have a gtx 1060 Gaming X from MSI which is obviously out of warranty so I'm thinking about modding it to match the rest of my new build. I'm planning on disassembling it, reapplying thermal paste and painting the red elements of the shroud white. What type of paint would be the best for this? Would primer + white paint +sanding be best or maybe simply plasti-dipping it? The gtx 1060 runs very cool and the shroud isn't critical to heat dissipation so I assume this is a completely doable mod and the insulating part of plasti-dip wont be an issue in terms of heat.

Got it, thank you! In that case only the first  question remains but I'll try to look deeper into google for that one.

I was also thinking in terms of future-proofing that the 8 cores will probably be better in the long run so I guess 5800x it is!

I'm for the most part regarding VRMs. When compared to other boards, the solution is fine, just not the greatest. 

Yeah definitely, but that was in reference to the X570 chipset being unnecessary in my use case. Anyways I'm grabbing the Gigabyte board, thanks for your help!

Whew, A Tier?
Wow, that's gonna be more than enough.
You never know. That's why this board is good for future upgrades, if you ever want to have them.

Thanks guys, I'll make sure to do more read better in the future.

Thanks for your time and help!