Jump to content
Search In
  • More options...
Find results that contain...
Find results in...

Biohazard777

Member
  • Content Count

    128
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Awards

This user doesn't have any awards

About Biohazard777

  • Title
    Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Either bend the cable a bit and route it over the fan like others have pointed our already, or get a low profile extension cable: Top end (on the picture above) goes into mobo, much les bulky than the standard cable. https://www.amazon.com/ZRM-Standard-Expansion-Connector-Motherboard/dp/B08GF5PWKB/
  2. If you want to get something that will be able to use almost the whole potential of that M.2 slot, and you want it to be from a reputable brand: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S1T0B/dp/B07MFZY2F2/
  3. Cheap ones are slow, sure, but even with the cheapest flash drive it shouldn't take an hour... Either the drive is defective or the OS live image is bad.
  4. i honestly, don't know, what you tried... To say. 4 pin = dumb / cheap LED color control. All the LEDs on the fan will produce the same color 3 pin = addressable LED (D_LED), more expensive but allows for different color LEDs on the same fan. This is your fan right? https://www.amazon.com/140mm-300-1200RPM-Controller-Included-Single/dp/B085VDR2SN From what I see the + G R B connector that comes with these fans has a passthrough, so you could hookup more than one to the same mobo header. That is your current draw per fan (0.12A), look
  5. Just buy a new pad, if you are on a tight budget "A4 Tech" pads are ok quality and cheap AF.
  6. Sorry, had to do it. This thread screamed for a "WikiHow" reply.
  7. Could be a CPU bottleneck, could be anything. How about you post full system specs, which games at which settings, temperatures, stuff you've tried so far to fix the issue... Let me grab my magic crystal bowl.
  8. Case and fans? Maybe your case is recirculating hot air or is very restrictive for airflow, making the GPU drive the fans faster to keep up with the heat. If that isn't causing the issue you can always install MSI Afterburner and make a new fan curve that is less noisy. PS Your English is fine.
  9. Yes the 212 will outperform Prism, but they will both be good cooling solution for the Ryzen 5 3600. Wraith Prism does have a few advantages over the 212, for starters I doubt you can find 212 for 25$ unused, also if you are into RGB Prism has that covered (and looks great IMHO) while with the 212 you'd have to spend even more to get an RGB fan. At the end of the day it doesn't really matter, so long as you aren't using Wraith Stealth (which is simply not good enough for that CPU).
  10. The difference between Wraith Stealth and Wraith Prism truly is night and day. Just seeing them side by side tells you a lot heh: I've personally swapped out the Stealth for Prism on 3 different Ryzen 5 3600(x) CPUs. Run a stress test (like Aida64 stability test or Prime95) with a Stealth and it will fail to keep boost clocks within a couple of minutes, reaching 90c + (with ambient 24c) and forcing the CPU to run at lower clocks. Do the same with a Prism and the temps will remain under 85c and the boost clock will not drop for a second, even after torturing the poor thing for half an
  11. As @Chris Pratt already said, stock cooler (Wraith Stealth) on Ryzen 5 3600 is pretty bad: A tiny slab of aluminium, no copper heat pipes, not even copper contacts... Well for that use-case you don't have to upgrade the cooler, that being said the upgrade doesn't need to be expensive. Cheap, but way more suitable cooling solutions for that CPU are: 1) Unused 2nd hand Wraith Prism from eBay (25$ to 35$), even has RGB heh: 2) Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO V2 (~45$) 3) Arctic Freezer 34 eSports (~40$) or if you want dual coolers eSports
  12. https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/196449/intel-core-i7-10510u-processor-8m-cache-up-to-4-90-ghz.html That seems way too high. Did you use Intel® Extreme Tuning Utility or ThrottleStop to do the undervolting? I've noticed on your screenshot that TrottleStop is OFF, so I'm guessing you are doing it via Intel Utility. For starters I'd roll-back all changes to default, try it like that, if it is still problematic then I'd try via ThrottleStop. You should have received the appropriate power brick with the laptop. You can, just
  13. Because CS:GO is CPU intensive, you've got the answer on your screen already, ThrottleStop has both POWER and PROCHOT flags. - POWER means that the laptop board can't deliver enough power to the CPU. You can try rectifying that by undervolting the CPU, that will also help with cooling. - PROCHOT means that it has reached whatever the laptop manufacturer set as max temp, your CPU can go up to 100c but it is common for manufacturers to set a slightly lower max, as in your case 95c. Since you can't change a cooling solution on the laptop you can do a repaste and you can make sure that the lap
  14. Yeah that is a picture of Putty (ssh client for Windows) connected to an SSH server. So you don't need fancy GUI Desktop stuff, just a plain old server. * Just a heads up, if this is your 1st time doing all of this it will take same time, like an afternoon or more. If you already have experience it can be done in an hour. 1) Download Ubuntu server: https://ubuntu.com/download/server/step2 2) Download Rufus or Balena Etcher and make a bootable flash drive which you will need to install the server 3) Install the server. This is going to be a bit tricky because you wish to use an ex
  15. Unfortunately they are bundled, black version doesn't get those instead you only get an extension cable and anti-vibration pads in different colors (and ofc regular metal screws): And the traditional Noctua color bundle gets: If you got the black version then instead of using the low noise adapter you can simply edit the fan curve to lower max rpm of the fan for more silent operation (this is what the adapter does, it is meant for user-friendliness or situations where you don't have manual control over fan speed). As for the anti-vibration mounts ("rubber screws"), I rarely u
×