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DJ46

Member
  • Content Count

    1,277
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About DJ46

  • Title
    Geek on a budget
  • Birthday Jun 04, 1998

Profile Information

  • Location
    Slovakia
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Modding, tinkering, VR

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core i7-4790
  • Motherboard
    Gigabyte B85N
  • RAM
    Adata 4GB + Kingston 8GB
  • GPU
    XFX GTR RX 480 8GB
  • Case
    Advantech IPC-510
  • Storage
    Samsung 850 EVO 500GB
  • PSU
    Corsair RM1000i
  • Display(s)
    HP Compaq LA2306x
  • Cooling
    TBD
  • Keyboard
    TBD
  • Mouse
    Logitech G502 Proteus Core
  • Sound
    Sennheiser HD555
  • Operating System
    Windows 10 (+StartIsBack)

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  1. I absolutely love this. For some reason it reminded me of a build I saw on here years ago, and today I finally found it - the H2O-Micro by QinX. I'm mentioning it because you might find some useful info in that thread - I skimmed through it looking for a specific tubing size, but even if it isn't written somewhere you could try to estimate it based on the 80mm fans for example. It also shows of the cooling potential (though it is a different radiator setup) with power consumption and temps. Here is a link to a specific post that shows off the assembled loop:
  2. DJ46

    Fanless PSU

    There are quite a few of them, they just aren't very popular because they get pretty expensive. I do agree that for the same price you can get an overkill semi-passive unit that won't turn on the fan even under full load in a lower spec system. That way you can even upgrade to more power hungry components later on without buying a new PSU, with the only downside being that the fan will turn on once in a while. (basically the reason I have an RM1000i in a system that pulls <300W under full load, other than the discount I got on it) The PSU shroud in the Evolv ITX has m
  3. DJ46

    Fanless PSU

    Most fanless PSUs are very efficient so that the heatsinks in them don't have to dissipate a lot of heat overall. They shouldn't noticeably affect the GPU.
  4. What monitor are you playing on? If you have a 1080p 60Hz panel you don't need a very powerful GPU. Is is also usually better to buy a decent GPU now and save some money. Then you can sell the GPU 1-2 years from now, add the money you saved and buy a new much faster one. There are always new faster cards and it is easier to upgrade every other generation to a new mid range card instead of being stuck with an expensive high-end one.
  5. That's pretty lucky, that is one of the cards that has them. They are on the end of the card, depending on the way you have your power cables organised you could use those to hide the fan cables. It looks like you may need to use GPUTweak to control them, manually adding the external fan speed slider. I can't find any mention of whether it can control non-PWM fans (3pin ones), so I'd play it safe and use PWM fans to be sure it will work.
  6. A lot of people end up connecting those fans to the motherboard and running them at a fixed RPM. There are adapters that turn the small fan connector present on most GPUs into a full size 4pin header, but I wouldn't recommend running the fans from it - I've burnt the fan circuit on an old GPU of mine that way (literally - saw actual smoke). The best way to do it in my opinion would be the adapter I mentioned going into a powered PWM hub - that way you only take the PWM signal from the GPU (and you can use normal GPU fan control software) and power the fans with the PSU through
  7. There are portable monitors meant for use with laptops on the go - to give power users a multi monitor setup that can fit in a backpack. These aren't really meant for gaming, but they are very compact and have decent colours - with single player games they should be good enough. You just have to make sure they have the right connectors - some use USB C for both the image and power, though you could probably get an adapter for those and only run one cable if you wanted to.
  8. I'm not sure, I'm not that familiar with the behaviour of modern nVidia GPUs. But with a convenient power limit slider that would be my first course of action. The underclock can lower the target frequency but I have no idea what power the GPU pulls to achieve it. Nevertheless, 1890Hz is still well above the advertised boost clock so I have to assume the power draw is higher as well.
  9. You only mentioned a slight underclock, nothing about undervolting or decreasing the power limit.
  10. I would definitely try to undervolt the GPU or limit the power it can pull ever so slightly before even considering replacing an AX series PSU. AFAIK the 30xx series cards respond fairly OK to undervolting and even if you do end up losing some clock speed, the performance loss shouldn't be significant.
  11. The AX860 really isn't that old. The PSU space doesn't move very quickly and that is an 80+ Platinum unit. Though it is possible that the powerspikes on the RTX3080 are so ridiculous that it can't keep up.
  12. All the components in that system seem to be pretty standard, the case looks like a normal budget model with cable management and a PSU basement just without a painted interior. Swapping the PSU shouldn't affect anything with the front panel. Redoing the cable management may be annoying, but it's a lot less difficult than some OEM systems with proprietary motherboard connectors (which can require you to actually "rewire" the PSU). The VS series from Corsair is not something I'd personally buy, I'd rather get a lower wattage higher tier PSU (500W should leave you with plenty of r
  13. Unless you have a custom loop with hardline tubing removing the GPU to get rid of the plastic on the thermal pads shouldn't take more than a few minutes. While there have been debates whether a heatsink on top of m.2 drives is necessary, having it covered by an insulator and getting no airflow definitely makes it run hot and it will shorten the lifespan and impact the drive's performance.
  14. I used a wooden case (with a metal motherboard tray) for years. People always say the PC will burn, but you could happily make a case out of paper/cardboard and run it for as long as you wanted. The only time a computer case of mine felt warm to the touch was when I had an ITX gaming rig with a plastic top panel blocking some of the GPU exhaust. That is still tens of degrees bellow the temperatures of the components (touching something heated to 50°C is enough to cause you pain). If you have decent airflow, the case won't even get warm. If it gets hot enough to ignite, something else
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