Show off your old and retro computer parts

[bcredeur97]

5 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

Hmm...

I'd say TPM 2.0 support without a TPM module is now where we draw the line.

guise i have a 32 core threadripper and a 2080ti and i can't run windows 11 check out my retro system

[Jin Alex]

AMD Athon X2 215 an cpu produced in 2009 .ADATA DDR3 1333Mhz and Nvidia GT 730 .It can see video in Youtube  but you know because of the cpu you can't watch 2K or 4K videos,also you can play Lol in a lower shown. 

[Bitter]

14 hours ago, FakeKGB said:

I might need to get a PSU for it as it seems that my 1000W unit doesn't have a -5V rail which I'm fairly certain I need for serial ports (yes, I am actually going to use them, I can send data between my Ryzen PC and P4HT because I got a null modem cable), plus it currently has a total of 2 Molex connectors.

It has plenty of PCIe and EPS power connectors though!

I still have the PSU that I originally used (unless I already gave you it) and I think I found all 4GB of RAM it had too. I wouldn't mind driving up there and chucking it at you some weekend, it was a nice drive.

[WhitetailAni]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

I still have the PSU that I originally used (unless I already gave you it) and I think I found all 4GB of RAM it had too. I wouldn't mind driving up there and chucking it at you some weekend, it was a nice drive.

The PSUs in my P3 build, but I wouldn't mind some more DDR. I've currently got 3GB in a weird dual channel(?) config of 2x1GB DDR 400, 1x512MB DDR 400, and 1x512MB DDR 333. No idea if that actually works out as dual channel or not.

[WhitetailAni]

Aha, found a waterblock with mounting hardware!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193934779217?epid=153196668&hash=item2d2769e351:g:fHgAAOSwxstgQLzd

Seems like it should work - from my limited understanding of fitting types it seems that the fittings go on the tubes, the tubes go on the block, then the fittings screw onto the block.

[Bitter]

27 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

Aha, found a waterblock with mounting hardware!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/193934779217?epid=153196668&hash=item2d2769e351:g:fHgAAOSwxstgQLzd

Seems like it should work - from my limited understanding of fitting types it seems that the fittings go on the tubes, the tubes go on the block, then the fittings screw onto the block.

That's a weird water block, but it'll do just fine! That 3.4E probably doesn't do more than 200W at 4ghz. You could do some math backwards from water temp rise over time to figure out the energy it's putting out. You need to know the volume of water and you'd need to NOT have a radiator in the loop to minimize heat losses. So block, pump, insulated reservoir. Measure water starting temp (should be at ambient), then run system hard as possible (prime95 torture) for X minutes and measure temp increase (or temp increase to X over ambient took Y minutes), then math, then convert to watts, you get close to actual TDP. Otherwise you'd need to know CPU volts and then measure amps into the motherboard which is maybe hard because there's several pins that supply CPU voltage at the 20 pin and 4 pin. Doable, if you're using a single rail PSU I guess you could measure from inside the PSU but that's super sketchy and I do not advise that at all.

P4's drop to CPU volts off the 12V or 5V rail? I can't remember anymore!

 

 

https://sciencing.com/calculate-temperature-btu-6402970.html I think that's the math you need for that, math is not my...uh yeah no.

 

Thank goodness that guy is in Latvia and shipping is too expensive, otherwise I'd have that Zalman Reserator bought!

[BondiBlue]

17 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

so now that windows 11 is coming do all the pre-2016 computers end up on this thread? xD 

Lol. Based on some of the things people post here I feel like I'm using an antique at times. 

[Bitter]

Oh yea, @FakeKGB the heat sink on the 6800 Ultra is pretty good, but if you can get a water block for it and have the radiator capacity for it, don't hesitate to add it to the loop too. Just make sure there's some air past the VRM heat sink stick something bigger to passive cool the VRM and probably some RAM heat sinks, the ram doesn't need a ton of cooling though. It OC'd a little on air but I know the limiting factor was the cooler as it ran hot even with the cooler 100% clean. I think I told you, but it needs a re-paste before doing anything strenuous on it.

 

So you've had the Asus P4 board on and posted then or you're polishing the paint before the motor runs?

[WhitetailAni]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Oh yea, @FakeKGB the heat sink on the 6800 Ultra is pretty good, but if you can get a water block for it and have the radiator capacity for it, don't hesitate to add it to the loop too. Just make sure there's some air past the VRM heat sink stick something bigger to passive cool the VRM and probably some RAM heat sinks, the ram doesn't need a ton of cooling though. It OC'd a little on air but I know the limiting factor was the cooler as it ran hot even with the cooler 100% clean. I think I told you, but it needs a re-paste before doing anything strenuous on it.

I repasted it with MX-4 the day I got it. If I have some spare Kryonaut after I repaste my GTX 690 I'll use it on my P4 and then the 6800 Ultra.

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

So you've had the Asus P4 board on and posted then or you're polishing the paint before the motor runs?

I don't have a cooler for the P4, unfortunately. I think I'll do what I did with my Core 2 Quad and plop the metal from the stock cooler on top with the ARCTIC P12 moving air through it for a test boot. The stock cooler is on my C2Q right now but I can stick my SpinQ w/ LGA775 mounting on that. I'm not using it for much right now anyway.

PSU, I can temporarily use the Silent Pro Gold 1000W, though I can't do that much since it's only got 2 Molex connectors (enough for the GPU and that's it).

[Bitter]

24 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

I repasted it with MX-4 the day I got it. If I have some spare Kryonaut after I repaste my GTX 690 I'll use it on my P4 and then the 6800 Ultra.

I don't have a cooler for the P4, unfortunately. I think I'll do what I did with my Core 2 Quad and plop the metal from the stock cooler on top with the ARCTIC P12 moving air through it for a test boot. The stock cooler is on my C2Q right now but I can stick my SpinQ w/ LGA775 mounting on that. I'm not using it for much right now anyway.

PSU, I can temporarily use the Silent Pro Gold 1000W, though I can't do that much since it's only got 2 Molex connectors (enough for the GPU and that's it).

MX-4 will be fine, probably better than Knaut since it's thicker and won't squish out so much. I suspect the stock cooler isn't the smoothest and flattest thing.

Just for checking post literally any hunk of metal or heat sink set on the CPU even without paste would be fine, CPU only pushes about 20-30W in BIOS usually. More than it can passive from the IHS but not enough that you need a serious heat sink with a lot of air flow. Need to order you some metal cubes.

 

 

/OT here comes some more storms, woohoo.

[WhitetailAni]

9 minutes ago, Bitter said:

/OT here comes some more storms, woohoo.

It's been raining on/on/on/off/on/on/on/off here, too.

Thankfully no water in the basement (our house suffered from being old and would get water in the basement, so we dug a hole near where the water comes in and now no more water).

EDIT:
@Bitter found a GPU waterblock!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144065809874?hash=item218afdcdd2:g:DM4AAOSwU31gu~nY

That's the right size fittings too. Now to get radiators and tubing.

 

Also, I realized I can do a 160mm radiator in the front - the case has 2 80mm fans in the front and if I get a thin enough radiator (I have a bit more than 3/4" of space) I should be golden on cooling. 25600mm² of surface area, which is a bit less than a 240mm radiator.

[Bitter]

42 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

It's been raining on/on/on/off/on/on/on/off here, too.

Thankfully no water in the basement (our house suffered from being old and would get water in the basement, so we dug a hole near where the water comes in and now no more water).

EDIT:
@Bitter found a GPU waterblock!
https://www.ebay.com/itm/144065809874?hash=item218afdcdd2:g:DM4AAOSwU31gu~nY

That's the right size fittings too. Now to get radiators and tubing.

 

Also, I realized I can do a 160mm radiator in the front - the case has 2 80mm fans in the front and if I get a thin enough radiator (I have a bit more than 3/4" of space) I should be golden on cooling. 25600mm² of surface area, which is a bit less than a 240mm radiator.

Hot damn! I'm jealous. I could never afford one of those back in the day, they were like $250 or something nuts. That's gonna be a killer AGP/P4 system! I can't wait to see what you do with it man.

 

Let me know when you're ready for the RAM, it's DDR 1066 I think. Nothing super fancy but it's decent stuff with blue heat spreaders and it's free. I think it's Corsair. I wish I could remember my OC settings for that setup, with the quad pumped FSB I think I ran it at 266x4 for 1:1 with the 1066 memory but I don't recall the voltage or any other settings. Even if it does post with the original caps some may have drifted from spec enough to cause stability issues. You may be re-capping the board, it's not a terrible job. Just practice on something else first.

 

For some reason 1.5 volts is ringing a bell...it's entirely maybe possible that the OC profiles saved in the board are still there. I think that board had that feature and I think they were written to non volatile memory like the BIOS flash memory. I don't recall losing the OC profiles with a BIOS reset or BIOS update! Not that my OC profiles are any good, I don't think I really had a clue what I was doing back then.

[WhitetailAni]

@Bitter Test booted the system and it's acting weird. Green LED on the board, I hit the power button, system turns on, fans go to 100%, I wait 2 seconds, and then it turns off. The heatsink is getting warm which is a good sign, but no display. No angry beeps either.

I am using a DVI-D single-link cable since I don't have DVI-I to VGA (what I would prefer to use) since I forgot my converter and the card has no VGA, so maybe that's it? Not exactly sure. The fans move a LOT of air but aren't exactly quiet about it.

I then made sure that the keyboard works (which it does) but forgot to plug the keyboard back in. This time, it took about 15 seconds to shut down instead of 2.

I thought perhaps it was looking for a PS/2 keyboard so I used a PS/2 to USB adapter, but same story. Turns on, shuts off.

Everything essential has power - 20-pin to the board, 4-pin to the CPU, 2x Molex to the GPU. I'm hoping it's just display issues.

[Bitter]

28 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

@Bitter Test booted the system and it's acting weird. Green LED on the board, I hit the power button, system turns on, fans go to 100%, I wait 2 seconds, and then it turns off. The heatsink is getting warm which is a good sign, but no display. No angry beeps either.

I am using a DVI-D single-link cable since I don't have DVI-I to VGA (what I would prefer to use) since I forgot my converter and the card has no VGA, so maybe that's it? Not exactly sure. The fans move a LOT of air but aren't exactly quiet about it.

I then made sure that the keyboard works (which it does) but forgot to plug the keyboard back in. This time, it took about 15 seconds to shut down instead of 2.

I thought perhaps it was looking for a PS/2 keyboard so I used a PS/2 to USB adapter, but same story. Turns on, shuts off.

Everything essential has power - 20-pin to the board, 4-pin to the CPU, 2x Molex to the GPU. I'm hoping it's just display issues.

I hope so too, sounds like bad caps maybe. Take a really good look at them all, but some may just be dry inside and not leaked.

 

OH do you have a 3 pin fan plugged into the power supply header? It's looking for a power supply fan feedback, I don't know if that prevents boot. It may have defaulted to halt/shut down on any errors. Maybe try a different video card too?

[WhitetailAni]

Just now, Bitter said:

I hope so too, sounds like bad caps maybe. Take a really good look at them all, but some may just be dry inside and not leaked.

All the caps look fine, though a few of them are a bit loose.

At home (tomorrow or Monday) I'll do testing with DVI-I to VGA with a VGA monitor to see if display was the problem. If it isn't, I'll be going capacitor shopping.

[Vishera]

On 6/13/2021 at 3:32 AM, CerealExperimentsLain said:

Pfft, have fun in the 'Future' losers, I'm here in the year 2000, watching anime, playing Roller Coaster Tycoon, all before the world went to hell.

 

This monitor looks like the PDAs of HP...

Anyway it looks more like 2005 than 2000.

 

[CerealExperimentsLain]

1 minute ago, Vishera said:

This monitor looks like the PDAs of HP...

Anyway it looks more like 2005 than 2000.

Look at more than the monitor.

 

 

[RollinLower]

1 minute ago, CerealExperimentsLain said:

Look at more than the monitor.

lol that 'never obsolete' branding really aged like fine wine

[CerealExperimentsLain]

Just now, RollinLower said:

lol that 'never obsolete' branding really aged like fine wine

It's cool, I fit an i3 3250, B75 board, and HD 6850 in there.   (This is all Win XP compatible hardware, the machine is built to be a high end XP machine though dual boots Win10 with that hardware)

[Vishera]

2 minutes ago, CerealExperimentsLain said:

Look at more than the monitor.

 

PCs with that look like that were still around in 2005...

[CerealExperimentsLain]

2 minutes ago, Vishera said:

PCs with that look like that were still around in 2005...

I'd like to point out that a PC that looks like that is also still around... Today, sitting on my desk, right now.

But that's a model from 1999.  (Not that it's internals are vintage at all)

[Vishera]

Just now, CerealExperimentsLain said:

I'd like to point out that a PC that looks like that is also still around... Today, sitting on my desk, right now.

But that's a model from 1999.  (Not that it's internals are vintage at all)

True,but it was normal to see a 5-6 years old PC in 2005.

[CerealExperimentsLain]

3 minutes ago, Vishera said:

True,but it was normal to see a 5-6 years old PC in 2005.

Would you suppose it was also normal to see a 1 year old computer in 2000?  Do you think such a theory is insane?

[Vishera]

5 minutes ago, CerealExperimentsLain said:

Would you suppose it was also normal to see a 1 year old computer in 2000?  Do you think such a theory is insane?

But desktop flat panel displays? - I have never seen one in 2000,

It's either that they didn't exist back then or were extremely rare.

[CerealExperimentsLain]

1 minute ago, Vishera said:

But desktop flat panel displays? - I have never seen one in 2000,

It's either that they didn't exist back then or were extremely rare.

I think you're missing the point with this hyperspecific nerd stuff.  It's about vibing pre 9/11.  Enjoying Rollercoaster Tycoon (1999) and Card Captor Sakura (2000) on an eMachine (1999).

The monitor and the CRT TV as well are somewhat anachronistic, they're both from 2003.  CRT TVs at 24" not hard to find these days, got that for $15.  I've given up on CRT PC Monitors as they are now rare and sought after.  Meanwhile that 2003 1600x1200 IPS (Yes, IPS) panel was 8 dollars. (It was apparently USD$999 when new.  God damn).

You also missed the Lenovo M93P Tiny there, that's driving the TV, Capt. No Fun.