Show off your old and retro computer parts

[wolfsbane3083]

Hehe don't worry about the hardware, the case is full open and doesn't even have any fans in atm. Purely just testing it/getting everything set up.

Have a cheapo 4u rackmount case, some 60mm chipset fans and other bits and bobs coming to turn it into a poor mans 8 bay NAS machine.

 

The chipset cooler on this board is honking huge too this board was nuts back in the day.

[Bitter]

1 minute ago, FakeKGB said:

I am planning to get two or three for the front of my case to take care of my 695's exhaust.

Build a tube to just pipe the hot air out of the case lol. I've done things like that with old plastic milk carton to direct airflow places. My old P4 build used to have a shee metal air deflector (aluminum 90deg flashing with a special bend to lock it into the case) that pushed the rear fans airflow (flipped to intake) to blow air across the motherboard. Needed that airflow to get to 4ghz stable as something was getting warm but I couldn't figure out what it was at the time so I just blew air at everything! Worked great actually since the top of the case was exhausting through the 3x80mm rad fans. Silly me gutted the plastic air flow guide that made those fans suck outside air and directed it over the fan controller, so later smarter me hacked a fan into the case to blow at the hot fan controller to keep it cooled off but I never built a new airflow guide because the case air just doesn't get that warm. I still run it flipped fans across the motherboard though so the 2x80 rear fans cool the VRM with active airflow.

[Bitter]

4 minutes ago, wolfsbane3083 said:

Hehe don't worry about the hardware, the case is full open and doesn't even have any fans in atm. Purely just testing it/getting everything set up.

Have a cheapo 4u rackmount case, some 60mm chipset fans and other bits and bobs coming to turn it into a poor mans 8 bay NAS machine.

 

The chipset cooler on this board is honking huge too this board was nuts back in the day.

https://hexus.net/tech/reviews/mainboard/9401-abit-in9-32x-max-wifi/?page=3

I've still got my 680i board, still works probably too.

[WhitetailAni]

Just now, Bitter said:

Build a tube to just pipe the hot air out of the case lol. I've done things like that with old plastic milk carton to direct airflow places. My old P4 build used to have a shee metal air deflector (aluminum 90deg flashing with a special bend to lock it into the case) that pushed the rear fans airflow (flipped to intake) to blow air across the motherboard. Needed that airflow to get to 4ghz stable as something was getting warm but I couldn't figure out what it was at the time so I just blew air at everything! Worked great actually since the top of the case was exhausting through the 3x80mm rad fans. Silly me gutted the plastic air flow guide that made those fans suck outside air and directed it over the fan controller, so later smarter me hacked a fan into the case to blow at the hot fan controller to keep it cooled off but I never built a new airflow guide because the case air just doesn't get that warm. I still run it flipped fans across the motherboard though so the 2x80 rear fans cool the VRM with active airflow.

That sounds cooler and cheaper too.

The fans were going to be there to direct the hot air but a tube sounds better.
I may be picking up some sheet metal at Ace Hardware along with some tubing as well.

 

On a somewhat related note, I went cap shopping and found that it'll cost $23 for replacement caps for the entire board and $14 for just the CPU/VRM caps. I'm not ordering them yet, but if the BIOS floppy doesn't fix it I'll order the CPU caps. Those are the most suspicious ones to me since the 4 big ones (16v 1200uF) are wobbly and I accidentally bonked one while installing it in my case.

[Bitter]

32 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

That sounds cooler and cheaper too.

The fans were going to be there to direct the hot air but a tube sounds better.
I may be picking up some sheet metal at Ace Hardware along with some tubing as well.

 

On a somewhat related note, I went cap shopping and found that it'll cost $23 for replacement caps for the entire board and $14 for just the CPU/VRM caps. I'm not ordering them yet, but if the BIOS floppy doesn't fix it I'll order the CPU caps. Those are the most suspicious ones to me since the 4 big ones (16v 1200uF) are wobbly and I accidentally bonked one while installing it in my case.

I think you're onto something there, hopefully. Even if it does POST/Boot with the floppy BIOS I'd still recap it if it were me but it sure is nice knowing something works before messing with it.

 

 

Man I think I'm gonna get my E8400 booted up today, I've got Win10 on an old Samsung 830 Evo (which was the old boot drive, long since reformatted many times over) with a bunch of drivers and utilities. I wonder if it'll still do 4ghz or not and I wonder if now knowing what I know I can OC it better than before (probably not lol). Those Core2Quad's are so cheap now a days they're mighty tempting but it's just throwing money away.

[Bitter]

Abit IN9-32X MAX WIFI will POST fine, shows both SATA drives on whatever port I connect them to, but for both gives the old DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER error. I've got the correct boot order, I've disabled everything except hard disk, disabled the IDE channels, I tried both a Win10 SSD and a Kubuntu SSD.

Is this some kind of disk boot partition format problem? Do newer OS's use a boot partition incompatible with older hardware? Am I missing something painfully obvious because I'm old and haven't touched this hardware in like 6 years and forgot something simple? Will Underdog save Polly Purebred from Riff Raff? FIND OUT NEXT WEEwait wrong thread...

 

 

Oh yea, these are cheap and great for quick builds to test stuff and temp systems.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092VZ5RZH

[WhitetailAni]

6 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Abit IN9-32X MAX WIFI will POST fine, shows both SATA drives on whatever port I connect them to, but for both gives the old DISK BOOT FAILURE, INSERT SYSTEM DISK AND PRESS ENTER error. I've got the correct boot order, I've disabled everything except hard disk, disabled the IDE channels, I tried both a Win10 SSD and a Kubuntu SSD.

Is this some kind of disk boot partition format problem? Do newer OS's use a boot partition incompatible with older hardware? Am I missing something painfully obvious because I'm old and haven't touched this hardware in like 6 years and forgot something simple?

Check to see if they're partitioned as GPT or MBR.

Windows auto-defaults to GPT and IIRC GPT only works with UEFI-capable BIOSes, and I don't think LGA775 is UEFI-capable.

[Bitter]

8 minutes ago, FakeKGB said:

Check to see if they're partitioned as GPT or MBR.

Windows auto-defaults to GPT and IIRC GPT only works with UEFI-capable BIOSes, and I don't think LGA775 is UEFI-capable.

You're probably onto it there, I made these installs on 4th gen Intel which I think are UEFI systems. I'll just wipe one and do a clean install, I think the Win10 loader will have enough of the drivers to get it booted. For Win7 I had to load drivers on a floppy which was a complete pain in the ass.

 

I still have the GTX 650, it's my test mule card now but it's the card to used to be in the system after I upgraded from the 9800GT. I can't wait till hardware prices are normal again and I can get my GTX 950 2GB back, it's the perfect card for an old C2D system.

[Bitter]

So this Abit board has some hours on it.

[Kilrah]

And that seems to include powered off time as long as AC is present. Just about one year's worth of power on time.

[Bitter]

As I understand the statistics, Up time on this BIOS is counted as booted through POST and running. It's had 32,080 hours running. AC on time is hours plugged in not through POST. It used to be on 24x7 so that's 3+yrs up and running Windows XP, then Windows 7, 8500 hours plugged in but off, reset button pushed just 229 times, plugged and unplugged from AC power 159 times, and power button cycled just 2607 times. It lived in the case I'm using for my Ryzen PC, now it's on a test bench thing like I linked earlier, installing Windows 10 so I can screw with OC'ing it again. The onboard SATA doesn't even support AHCI which is a bummer and it's only SATAII.

[da na]

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

As I understand the statistics, Up time on this BIOS is counted as booted through POST and running. It's had 32,080 hours running. AC on time is hours plugged in not through POST. It used to be on 24x7 so that's 3+yrs up and running Windows XP, then Windows 7, 8500 hours plugged in but off, reset button pushed just 229 times, plugged and unplugged from AC power 159 times, and power button cycled just 2607 times. It lived in the case I'm using for my Ryzen PC, now it's on a test bench thing like I linked earlier, installing Windows 10 so I can screw with OC'ing it again. The onboard SATA doesn't even support AHCI which is a bummer and it's only SATAII.

I still use two HDDs that have over 55,000 power on hours of the spindle motor... Each has had 2 or 3 unrecoverable errors... they make weird sounds... but still work just fine! Beat that... I should probably replace them soon but nah I'm getting my full $20 out of what I paid for those drives (they were $10 each from a server surplus store, they had "been used previously in a workstation" yeah no joke)

[WhitetailAni]

Quote

Show off your old and retro computer parts

Making a slight revision to the title for this.

Quote

Show off your old, retro, and dead computer parts

This here's an 8600 GT, Death By Rust edition. Got pictures of front and back both with and without HSF assembly (Heatsink fan assembly)

Spoiler

I've also got an ECS L7VMM2 Rev:1.0a and an Athlon XP 2000+. Doesn't POST no matter what I do - swap RAM, swap GPU, change jumper settings, switch RAM slots, fill both RAM slots, etc. I still have the OG I/O shield.

Spoiler

Someone over on the TPU forums is looking for dead hardware for wall art, so I sent him a PM with what I had. The ECS board is a nice shade of purple that looks quite nice when held up to a wall. The 8600 GT looks less nice but I figured I'd offer him what I had.

 

There's also an Athlon 64 X2 6000+, P/N ADA6000IAA6CZ.

The original revision with a P/N of ADX6000IAA6CZ had a 125W TDP with 1MB of L2 cache, shared between the 2 cores. The ADA6000IAA6CZ has an 89W TDP with 2x1MB of L2 cache, with 1MB of cache per core. It's also one of the fastest Athlon 64 X2's ever made.

It's currently in what I call a Schrödinger state. I don't know if it works, nor do I have the ability to find out if it works.

[Bitter]

Now that's what I call a logo screen!

 

[abit-sean]

5 hours ago, Bitter said:

Now that's what I call a logo screen!

 

That board caused no end of trouble, the NF680 chipset was not ready at the time of release.

[flibberdipper]

13 hours ago, Mel0nMan said:

I still use two HDDs that have over 55,000 power on hours of the spindle motor... Each has had 2 or 3 unrecoverable errors... they make weird sounds... but still work just fine! Beat that... I should probably replace them soon but nah I'm getting my full $20 out of what I paid for those drives (they were $10 each from a server surplus store, they had "been used previously in a workstation" yeah no joke)

If you insist. This drive is used in a simple storage space in my server so I sure do live life on the edge.

[Bitter]

10 hours ago, abit-sean said:

That board caused no end of trouble, the NF680 chipset was not ready at the time of release.

I had pretty OK luck with mine but I bought it probably a year after launch around mid 2008 maybe. It must be decent quality cause it's still going! It's running Windows 10 at the moment just to play around, but wow does 4GB memory barely work for 10.

 

So what was wrong with it? Bad drivers?

I ran 1600mhz FSB all day long with my 4GB kit of Nvidia blessed Corsair 1066 memory, had the precursor to XMP or something. The E8400 in there was a great chip at the time, I'll repast my Xigmatek 3 heat pipe 120mm tower and clock it back up once I make sure it's stable at stock speeds still. My old OC profiles are even still saved and I haven't powered it on in about 5 years. 

[frooggy]

11 hours ago, flibberdipper said:

If you insist. This drive is used in a simple storage space in my server so I sure do live life on the edge.

Only a few thousand hours on you. Just long term storage at this point.

[abit-sean]

13 hours ago, Bitter said:

I had pretty OK luck with mine but I bought it probably a year after launch around mid 2008 maybe. It must be decent quality cause it's still going! It's running Windows 10 at the moment just to play around, but wow does 4GB memory barely work for 10.

 

So what was wrong with it? Bad drivers?

I ran 1600mhz FSB all day long with my 4GB kit of Nvidia blessed Corsair 1066 memory, had the precursor to XMP or something. The E8400 in there was a great chip at the time, I'll repast my Xigmatek 3 heat pipe 120mm tower and clock it back up once I make sure it's stable at stock speeds still. My old OC profiles are even still saved and I haven't powered it on in about 5 years. 

It was compatibility and stability issues with the Q series intel CPUs, especially with 1333 FSB. It was all sorted out with bios updates in the end. The board itself was very good quality, but it came with a high price tag. We always had issues with nvidia chipsets using intel CPUs, they just seems to work better on the AMD platforms.

[Bitter]

4 hours ago, abit-sean said:

It was compatibility and stability issues with the Q series intel CPUs, especially with 1333 FSB. It was all sorted out with bios updates in the end. The board itself was very good quality, but it came with a high price tag. We always had issues with nvidia chipsets using intel CPUs, they just seems to work better on the AMD platforms.

Sounds about right. I wonder if uGuru runs on Windows 10...I'll find out. Gotta let it run P95 blend for 24hrs at stock before I crank things up. First stop 3.6ghz, then I'm going for 4.0 again. I couldn't get that stable before but I know more now and have a PSU with much more stable voltage.

[abit-sean]

Just now, Bitter said:

Sounds about right. I wonder if uGuru runs on Windows 10...I'll find out. Gotta let it run P95 blend for 24hrs at stock before I crank things up. First stop 3.6ghz, then I'm going for 4.0 again. I couldn't get that stable before but I know more now and have a PSU with much more stable voltage.

There is a uGuru version that runs on Windows 10, I use on my workshop machine running an IP35 pro. You need to find the last version which was created for vista x64, v3.1.0.9

[Bitter]

26 minutes ago, abit-sean said:

There is a uGuru version that runs on Windows 10, I use on my workshop machine running an IP35 pro. You need to find the last version which was created for vista x64, v3.1.0.9

Any other 'secret sauce' I need to know about? What I really need is 4x2GB not 4x1GB for RAM, Win10 is having a hard time with 4GB memory it seems like. Win7 needs drivers loaded via floppy and that was always a pain in the butt, but it coped with 4GB memory a little better. I have 2x2GB in a different brand but at 6GB I could never get a stable OC with mixed memory, it knocked me out of that 'sli ready' memory magic and the board just did not like it.

[abit-sean]

2 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Any other 'secret sauce' I need to know about? What I really need is 4x2GB not 4x1GB for RAM, Win10 is having a hard time with 4GB memory it seems like. Win7 needs drivers loaded via floppy and that was always a pain in the butt, but it coped with 4GB memory a little better. I have 2x2GB in a different brand but at 6GB I could never get a stable OC with mixed memory, it knocked me out of that 'sli ready' memory magic and the board just did not like it.

I've been running 4x2GB on my IP35 pro paired with a Q9300. It runs windows 10 really smoothly on stock overclock. The memory can be and issue as you may have to manually adjust the timings to match your lowest performing stick. If you are using any non generic memory such as OCZ, corsair xms, dominator etc you will need to change the voltages from 1.8v to sometimes as high as 2.3v. For windows 7  floppy drivers I used to use nlite to add the driver to the boot media.

[Bitter]

12 hours ago, abit-sean said:

I've been running 4x2GB on my IP35 pro paired with a Q9300. It runs windows 10 really smoothly on stock overclock. The memory can be and issue as you may have to manually adjust the timings to match your lowest performing stick. If you are using any non generic memory such as OCZ, corsair xms, dominator etc you will need to change the voltages from 1.8v to sometimes as high as 2.3v. For windows 7  floppy drivers I used to use nlite to add the driver to the boot media.

It's got big fins, I think it's 1066 Dominator with 555 timings. I'll have to check tonight and post back.

I never quite got nlite to work right but that was a long long time ago, ill give it a shot again.

 

 

It posted at 1866 FSB (4.18Ghz) but Win10 says it's broken (winload.exe) and the system hangs lol so I don't think it's stable. I tried upto 1.4 vcore but didn't mess around with bumping NB volts or anything else up much, only had a few minutes this evening to play with it. I'll mess with it more later, I need to re-paste the CPU and see if one of my other bigger coolers will fit on it for max thermals...well min thermals I guess. Also I used to have a dedicated 40mm fan on the VRM and NB, those are no longer there so things are warmer than I remember now. I'll have to scrounge through my junk to see if I have some I can bodge back onto the system.

 

 

@abit-sean I assume the VRM cooler on these used pads for TIM and that the NB and SB used paste? How well does that stuff hold up? Should I look at repadding/repasting them or they're probably fine still?

[Guest]

On 12/19/2013 at 4:25 PM, TheTechnerd said:

 Today I thought we would do something fun and different. This is a topic about showing of all your old pc parts (or old computers). Feel free to post some pics:) It will be fun:D

 

Here's some of mine:

 

 

Kingston Hyperx DDR2 2GB 1066MHz

 

 

Intel core 2 duo 2.2 GHz

 

 

Intel core 2 duo 2.2 GHz backside

I have an old TV remote

does that count?

 

if so I can’t find it right now