Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[jagdtigger]

4 hours ago, Bitter said:

Well go let Ford and Toyota know that I guess.

A picture wont tell me method of oeration, but the part number on the other hand. MJ11028G, a darlington transistor made for amplifier applications......   Just for reference this is a 360W switching lab PSU:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qjLx_HsKUQ

 

Yep, absolutely tiny heatsink.......

[ED 209]

14 hours ago, Monkey Dust said:

It could be several things. Possibly one of the front brakes is sticking on slightly causing the car to pull to the side, and has also caused the disc to heat up and warp. Or the issues could be unrelated. Possibly a wheel bearing, but that would likely be quite noisy. Might be as simple as the wheel alignment being out and your brakes being worn. Sorry I can't take a guess at the cost though.  

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

[bcredeur97]

3 hours ago, ED 209 said:

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

I’d imagine the one in the car is prob a bit overkill since it’ll be in a tough environment and has to work 24/7. 

 

(remember that inside a car can be 150F on a hot summer day, and that’s when ppl crank the fan speed) 

[Monkey Dust]

8 hours ago, ED 209 said:

 

 

 

Well now with the correct tire pressure ( 2.2 - 2.3 bar ) the issue is still kinda there but its way better night-day difference. The weird thing is that as always ( in my case ) the rear tires were the ones that really needed air the front where more or less OK. Last air top-up was  09-01-2021.

 

The front tires are near the end of their life and worn down way more than the rear since the Daihatsu is front wheel drive. The rear tires have almost no wear since they just follow the front tires BUT they tend to lose air quicker than the front. If I remember correctly the tires are 5 years old, I will have to check with what is printed on the tires to verify.

 

Now I guess I need new tires,  wheel balancing and alignment. This makes more sense than my previous assumption. What do you think ?

 

 

 

It would be a good place to start. New tyres and alignment can really transform how a car feels.

[iDeFecZx]

22 hours ago, ComputerBuilder said:

i just found this forum, but to evreyone here, should i just blab about cars?

if yes boom

i have this question, what honda engine should i shove in a 1998 civic ex, it already has a d16y8, but im looking for mega revs and manual transmission?

either a B16 or a K20A

[Bitter]

17 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

A picture wont tell me method of oeration, but the part number on the other hand. MJ11028G, a darlington transistor made for amplifier applications......   Just for reference this is a 360W switching lab PSU:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qjLx_HsKUQ

 

Yep, absolutely tiny heatsink.......

Ok? Benchtop PSU isn't a blower speed controller? Cars are about profits, if you can use a cheaper part and it's safe and customers don't care then you use a cheaper part. Resistor boards are cheap and work well for blower speed control. Electricity in a gas vehicle isn't a big deal since there's already a loss from the gas to alternator so a little more loss from a hot resistor card to run blower speeds isn't a big deal. What is a big deal is when you're building 2 million cars and one part costs you $1.50 and the other part costs you $5.75.  $850,000,000 is a lot of money, if you're making a low margins vehicle like a small car, small truck, utility van, etc having 5 blower speeds is perfectly acceptable. When you're moving up to a larger profit vehicle like a luxury car/suv then having a variable speed blower with a controller is expected now and you'll make up that expenditure on a higher markup. Arguments about efficiency aren't really at play with non electric vehicles since electricity is a byproduct and not what moves the vehicle. Moving from a resistor card to a transistor control is going to be like...an immeasurable benefit in miles per gallon. You have a peak thermal efficiency of 25-30% at the top end for gas cars on the road, alternators are in the area of 60% give or take 10% depending on model/type. Increasing electrical efficiency on gas vehicles doesn't give efficiency gains like it would for an electric vehicle and is rarely worth the increased costs. I can make an example of myself, I converted all the exterior and some of the interior lighting on my 1998 Mazda 626 to LED or HID. 35W HID ballasts draw about 40-45W (from 55W each low beam), LED exterior lighting went from a peak of over 125W for brake lights (5 lamps at about 25W each on brake) to a total of about 50W of LED on brake light and from about 75W on tail light to 30W on tail lights, turn signals are a little weird because not a steady load but those are in the same range of gains, plate lights were 5W now probably in the fractions of a watt, dome light went from about 25W to under 2W. I track my gas mileage on most fill ups on this vehicle. Since changing over the lighting I've seen exactly zero gains in gas mileage. I do however see steadier voltage and a smoother idle with less alternator draw.

[jagdtigger]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

Benchtop PSU isn't a blower speed controller?

No but as the name implies it reduces the source voltage via switching. Pretty similar to PWM which also uses the transistor as a simple switch.

[Bitter]

5 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

No but as the name implies it reduces the source voltage via switching. Pretty similar to PWM which also uses the transistor as a simple switch.

My snow blower is similar to my car. Both have electric starters and both burn gasoline and both have at least 2 wheels.

[bcredeur97]

didn't mean to cause a stir over blower motors, lol. 

[jagdtigger]

17 hours ago, Bitter said:

My snow blower is similar to my car. Both have electric starters and both burn gasoline and both have at least 2 wheels.

Im done with discussing about this.....

[vetali]

17 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

didn't mean to cause a stir over blower motors, lol. 

I have fond memories of drywall.

[Bitter]

10 hours ago, jagdtigger said:

Im done with discussing about this.....

Glad you realized you're wrong.

[bcredeur97]

2 hours ago, Bitter said:

Glad you realized you're wrong.

nooooooooooo you should of just dropped it xD 

[vetali]

1 hour ago, bcredeur97 said:

nooooooooooo you should of just dropped it xD 

yep.

 

Anyway, I traded in my Civic the other day for a Passport. Unlike the Mazda, I'll somewhat miss the Civic. Despite its quirks, it was a fun car. If I had waited a year and got the sport touring manual I coulda seen myself keeping it. One of my favorite handling FWD cars.

Spoiler

 

[GDRRiley]

On 2/4/2021 at 11:06 AM, ComputerBuilder said:

i have this question, what honda engine should i shove in a 1998 civic ex, it already has a d16y8, but im looking for mega revs and manual transmission?

if you want to have a real fun time go J type with a TLX transmission, just be ready for the cost

 

[FakeFBI]

5 minutes ago, GDRRiley said:

if you want to have a real fun time go J type with a TLX transmission, just be ready for the cost

 

some reasons why i disagree but i did find a J engine withouth tran for $899

1. its a v6

2. i dont think that a v6 would be pratical, weight cough cough

3. will it fit in the bay, i know a  STRAIGHT 4 k24 can, but a 3.2 liter v6?

4. that would be like puting a b16 in a fk8, just doesnt fit together

Good reasons

5. they have normal honda strandard i heard

6. they can probrably be pused much higher than a k24 can or f22 can

[FakeFBI]

edit: the cheap engine has just been sold, god dammit it also had a ecu

edit: again i just found a damn fact, 2.5 liter versions exist 

[bcredeur97]

23 minutes ago, vetali said:

yep.

 

Anyway, I traded in my Civic the other day for a Passport. Unlike the Mazda, I'll somewhat miss the Civic. Despite its quirks, it was a fun car. If I had waited a year and got the sport touring manual I coulda seen myself keeping it. One of my favorite handling FWD cars.

 

why'd you trade it in? Passport is nice though, certainly more roomy.

[GDRRiley]

12 minutes ago, ComputerBuilder said:

some reasons why i disagree but i did find a J engine withouth tran for $899

1. its a v6

2. i dont think that a v6 would be pratical, weight cough cough

3. will it fit in the bay, i know a  STRAIGHT 4 k24 can, but a 3.2 liter v6?

4. that would be like puting a b16 in a fk8, just doesnt fit together

Good reasons

5. they have normal honda strandard i heard

6. they can probrably be pused much higher than a k24 can or f22 can

that’s a decent price 
Yes

Its not that much heavier and heavier springs are sold

yes it will there are pre made engine mounts 

Let me find my spreadsheet when I’ve looked at it 

[FakeFBI]

3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

why'd you trade it in? Passport is nice though, certainly more roomy.

passport is nice, but for a civic? i mean it is roomy, but still bummer that the sport touring has no vtec to pair with the manual you had

[FakeFBI]

1 minute ago, GDRRiley said:

that’s a decent price 
Yes

Its not that much heavier and heavier springs are sold

yes it will there are pre made engine mounts 

Let me find my spreadsheet when I’ve looked at it 

ive found a j25 for $600 average, sadly no tran im scared the tran is gonna cost like 4k

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, bcredeur97 said:

why'd you trade it in? Passport is nice though, certainly more roomy.

Civic wasn't paid off, wasn't really practical for me anymore. I wanted something bigger and more capable of hauling tools around without feeling bogged down by more than 500 pounds in the cargo area.

 

I had narrowed it down to 3 options. Passport, BMW X5 F15, or 14 and newer Tahoe. The new Ridgeline was taken off my list when I saw the pricing and that it was still using the old infotainment from like the 2013 Accord. Deciding factor was Honda is doing super low APR financing right now (.9% for 60 months, increasing a percent for 72). Its very rare for them to do low financing like that on any trim level so I made the decision.

[GDRRiley]

36 minutes ago, ComputerBuilder said:

ive found a j25 for $600 average, sadly no tran im scared the tran is gonna cost like 4k

Tran are 1-3k. The accord is cheaper 

[FakeFBI]

1 minute ago, GDRRiley said:

Tran are 1-3k. The accord is cheaper 

well now were screwed

[GDRRiley]

1 minute ago, ComputerBuilder said:

well now were screwed

? I added in my cost estimates