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For help choosing a power supply please Create a New Thread asking for assistance including your budget and system hardware to receive the best answers relevant to your specific needs.

1 hour ago, Quadriplegic said:

Phanteks AMP is based on Seasonic GX, which is updated version of Focus+. So they aren't the same PSU.
And what Luke said.


If you want quiet PSU, why not look into Corsair RMx or Fractal Design Ion?

I thought the Corsair RMx uses rifle bearing on their fans while Seasonic/Phanteks uses a fluid dynamics bearing. I assume the latter is a quieter fan. 

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16 minutes ago, vformula00 said:

I thought the Corsair RMx uses rifle bearing on their fans while Seasonic/Phanteks uses a fluid dynamics bearing. I assume the latter is a quieter fan. 

That's just the bearing. The Hong Hua fan that Seasonic likes to use has a ticking noise, and is the loudest part of my PC. 

The RM is a cost cut RMx, and one of the downgrades is the fan. The NR135 is replaced with a Hong Hua fan similar to the one Seasonic uses. 

 

Quote

Women. They are a complete mystery.

-Stephen Hawking

 

I think the hoomans put their builds here?

Why do you hoomans give your builds a name? Here's my build, which I shall call "Do as I Say, Not As I Do" (seriously, don't get this build)

Spoiler

Ryzen 1500X @3,925 GHz

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + 2x ML120

MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic

2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz CL15 (Micron B-die) @2933 MHz

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X @1120 MHz / 1450 MHz

120GB 850 Evo

120GB Kingston SSD

500GB WD Blue

Cooler Master Elite 430

Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W

Logitech G710 with Kailh Box Jade

Logitech G502

HyperX Cloud

And my laptop, which I shall call "If It's Stupid But It Works" (It can actually play CS:GO at 50 FPS, and Civ V at 25 FPS)

Spoiler

Lenovo Thinkpad L460

Intel Core i3 6100U

4GB (probably) DDR4 2133 MHz

Intel HD Graphics 520 0.3-1.0 GHz

128GB Samsung MZ7LF128HCHP

Corsair M65 Pro RGB (worst mouse I've ever had)

Sennheiser CX 5.00G

And here would be where I would put a picture of my cat. But apparently, images are not allowed here. So take this instead (*ΦωΦ*)

Hello fellow night theme users

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2 minutes ago, seon123 said:

The NR135 is replaced with a Hong Hua fan similar to the one Seasonic uses. 

just to add:

RM: HA1425M12F-Z

Focus: HA1225H12F-Z

PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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35 minutes ago, NeptuneIX said:

You really think if they actively made new ones they'd be giving out ones from EARLY 2018, 2 full years ago?

You don't understand that it's not manufacturer that 'gives out' units but the retailer. Which buys units from manufacturer, if they have enough in stock there's no point in buying new ones. And even if they buy new batches from Riotoro, they may have a lot of old units lying around.

35 minutes ago, NeptuneIX said:

Guy that made the list says he has info but doesnt actually provide his source

And you also refuse to understand that there's such a thing as NDA, it is enough that we were even given such information.

I say again, no one forced you to buy Riotoro Enigma G2 after you couldn't retrieve an info about it's manufacturing date, you made that decision yourself. We made clear that there are new and old units in the list, you didn't even needed any word here, all the info are there. EVEN if there's no such thing as Focus GX based Riotoro Enigma G2 this changes nothing, you have to get manufacturing date from retailer to differentiate new and old units as there's no other signs, same SKU, same box. You couldn't, still bought it, it was your decision.

And, you also freaking out on the very fact that you got an old stock despite it's still okay with pretty much anything but AMD Vega.

35 minutes ago, NeptuneIX said:

I will certainly be spreading the news

Feel free to do so, just please, stop littering this thread.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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* thread cleaned *

If you need help with your forum account, please use the Forum Support form !

 

VPN server guide

Introduction to Mechanical Keyboard

Spoiler

My Gaming Rig - Motherboard: MSI Z370-A PRO CPU: i7-8700 RAM: 32GB DDR4 2400(4x8GB) GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1060 3GB OS SSD: 240GB Avexir E100 Storage: 2x 1TB Seagate PSU: Seasonic G650 OS: Windows 10 Pro 64bits Monitor: Acer 21in G205H + Lenovo 21in

 

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9 hours ago, seon123 said:

That's just the bearing. The Hong Hua fan that Seasonic likes to use has a ticking noise, and is the loudest part of my PC. 

The RM is a cost cut RMx, and one of the downgrades is the fan. The NR135 is replaced with a Hong Hua fan similar to the one Seasonic uses. 

What Seasonic model you have?

 

Currently I am looking at fan rpm vs noise curve from Tom's Hardware reviews of the RM650x and AMP 650W. The max load-wise the RM650x is much better acoustically since the max fan rpm of the Corsair is below 1400 with Phanteks hits up to 2200 rpm level. The issue with me is that while the Phanteks cannot sustain much fanless load at around the 250W before starting the fan and its fan curve is much more pleasant to the ears. The Corsair just Thai-kicks the fan to loud. 

 

Picking the right PSU for a computer is probably the highest part of a computer build for me.

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6 minutes ago, vformula00 said:

What Seasonic model you have?

The Prime Titanium 650W. It uses the 135 mm variant of the fan in the Focus.

6 minutes ago, vformula00 said:

Currently I am looking at fan rpm vs noise curve from Tom's Hardware reviews of the RM650x and AMP 650W. The max load-wise the RM650x is much better acoustically since the max fan rpm of the Corsair is below 1400 with Phanteks hits up to 2200 rpm level. The issue with me is that while the Phanteks cannot sustain much fanless load at around the 250W before starting the fan and its fan curve is much more pleasant to the ears. The Corsair just Thai-kicks the fan to loud

Hm? The RMx's passive lasts for longer than the Amp in the review on Tomshardware (approx 325-390 W vs 260-325 W). The fan also starts at 620 RPM on the RMx vs 555 RPM on the Amp. There is barely any difference. And again, the Hong Hua fan has an annoying ticking sound.

10 minutes ago, vformula00 said:

Picking the right PSU for a computer is probably the highest part of a computer build for me.

Other quiet options for you to consider would the the Ion+, and Leadex III.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/fractal-design-ion-660p-power-supply-review,6266-2.html

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-650-w/2.html

 

Quote

Women. They are a complete mystery.

-Stephen Hawking

 

I think the hoomans put their builds here?

Why do you hoomans give your builds a name? Here's my build, which I shall call "Do as I Say, Not As I Do" (seriously, don't get this build)

Spoiler

Ryzen 1500X @3,925 GHz

Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo + 2x ML120

MSI B350 Tomahawk Arctic

2x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3000 MHz CL15 (Micron B-die) @2933 MHz

Sapphire Radeon R9 280 Dual-X @1120 MHz / 1450 MHz

120GB 850 Evo

120GB Kingston SSD

500GB WD Blue

Cooler Master Elite 430

Seasonic Prime Titanium 650W

Logitech G710 with Kailh Box Jade

Logitech G502

HyperX Cloud

And my laptop, which I shall call "If It's Stupid But It Works" (It can actually play CS:GO at 50 FPS, and Civ V at 25 FPS)

Spoiler

Lenovo Thinkpad L460

Intel Core i3 6100U

4GB (probably) DDR4 2133 MHz

Intel HD Graphics 520 0.3-1.0 GHz

128GB Samsung MZ7LF128HCHP

Corsair M65 Pro RGB (worst mouse I've ever had)

Sennheiser CX 5.00G

And here would be where I would put a picture of my cat. But apparently, images are not allowed here. So take this instead (*ΦωΦ*)

Hello fellow night theme users

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10 minutes ago, seon123 said:

The Prime Titanium 650W. It uses the 135 mm variant of the fan in the Focus.

Hm? The RMx's passive lasts for longer than the Amp in the review on Tomshardware (approx 325-390 W vs 260-325 W). The fan also starts at 620 RPM on the RMx vs 555 RPM on the Amp. There is barely any difference. And again, the Hong Hua fan has an annoying ticking sound.

Other quiet options for you to consider would the the Ion+, and Leadex III.

https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/fractal-design-ion-660p-power-supply-review,6266-2.html

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/super-flower-leadex-iii-650-w/2.html

I will take a good look at the Super Flower. Thanks for the recommendations.

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How good/bad is older bequiet! Dark Power Pro P8 600W? It's for 1 euro at auction atm, for a friend to change firehazard Raidmax PSU he got

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25 minutes ago, andrija777 said:

How good/bad is older bequiet! Dark Power Pro P8 600W? It's for 1 euro at auction atm, for a friend to change firehazard Raidmax PSU he got

i mean... it's over a decade old by now... even if it's probably better than the crappy raidmax lines, it's not good by todays standards

 

internal shot:

2_int3.png

PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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1 hour ago, LukeSavenije said:

i mean... it's over a decade old by now... even if it's probably better than the crappy raidmax lines, it's not good by todays standards

fair point, other guy had 650W Dark Power Pro 10 listed for 40ish euros, but took listing off because of covid lockdown, will see to get that one instead when he relists it

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1 minute ago, MurderBurger_ said:

If price isnt being considered here what would overall be the best pick? Running a 3950x 4.4ghz 1.275v, Radeon VII 2200mhz/1200 1.15v, 6 Fans, Pump/Resevoir

sp11 will be the most quiet

hxi will have digital features

gx is nothing special here

PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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1 minute ago, LukeSavenije said:

sp11 will be the most quiet

hxi will have digital features

gx is nothing special here

Is there a specific PSU you would recommend grabbing over these or would these be fine? Also between the SP11 and HXI should I worry about the HXI being (Renewed)?

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This post I write out of curiosity, after looking at some portions of the tier list.

Quote

Tier C - Recommended for entry level desktops, Office desktops, APU Systems

[...]

  • Corsair [...] RM 2013 1000w

I'm curious, why is this PSU in this tier, the otther RM 2013 are in Tier A so I am just curious what the RM1000 does so bad?

 

The Corsair TXM 2017 is in the same tier as the Corsair CX 2017. I seem to remember the TXM was in a higher tier, closer to the RMX?

Was this the case, or did the CX 2017 perhaps move up, making me think this?

-------------------

Quote

Tier B+ - Recommended for midrange systems

[...]

  • BeQuiet Pure Power 10 400w+ / 11 400w+

The Pure Power 11 CM is not specifically mentioned. Is that equal to the 'normal' Pure Power 11? (other than being semi-modular and looking different)

 

(Thanks for maintaining this list, to all the users here. This is a great source of quick information on most PSU's on the market).

"We're all in this together, might as well be friends" Tom, Toonami.

Sorry if my post seemed rude, that is never my intention.

"Why do we suffer a lifetime for a moment of happiness?" - Anonymous

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@MurderBurger_ Renewed PSU wouldn't have manufacturer warranty, only Amazon's 30 day warranty. As of other recommendations, you know, we have a certain tier list here, just look at tier A+, they're all multi-rail, but i pretty sure that you don't need 850W PSU and therefore don't need multi-rail.

 

@minibois On RM 2013 1000W - this :

https://www.techpowerup.com/review/corsair-rm1000/9.html

1852874823_.PNG.14a2bbd5f6bd08c06135197b433401bd.PNG

 

This could've been already fixed after that review were out or this could've been just a one-off bad unit but we don't care since it's long EOL anyway.

 

On TX-m, it was detiered due to >50mV ripple according to methodology, we have a notes for such occurrences in the spreadsheet.

 

On bq! PP11. They're nearly incidental but technically CM version should probably have better ripple suppression but i'm not aware of a good review comparing them both so no data here and it's not like the difference would be major.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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1 hour ago, MurderBurger_ said:

Is there a specific PSU you would recommend grabbing over these or would these be fine? Also between the SP11 and HXI should I worry about the HXI being (Renewed)?

any would be fine, but straight up overkill in wattage

 

renewed means they hooked it up to a load tester, and they only give you limited warranty on it

PSU Tier List 4.0//Motherboard Tier List//Community Standards//ATX Specification//Group Regulation//Topologies and Regulations//How many watts?//PSU Protections

Don't forget to quote or mention me

 

Primary PC:

Spoiler

CPU: I5-8600k 5.0ghz

GPU: GTX 1070 ti EVGA SC Gaming

RAM: 2x8 3333 mhz DDR4 Trident Z

MOBO: MSI Gaming Pro Carbon AC

HDD: 1 TB 7200 RPM Seagate Baracudda, 1 TB 5400 RPM Samsung Spinpoint HD103SI

SSD: Samsung 860 EVO 500 GB

Case: Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB (modified)

PSU: Seasonic Focus GX650

 

Consoles:

Spoiler

PS4 Slim Glacier White 500 GB

PS4 FTP Special Edition 500 GB

PS3 Super Slim 500 GB

PS2 OG

Xbox OG

DS Lite White

DS Lite Black/blue

DS Lite Blue

DSI XL Orange

Gameboy Advanced Color

PS Vita v2

Wii

 

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Im guessing for my setup you would recommend 650w, or a 750w for overclocking?

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56 minutes ago, MurderBurger_ said:

Im guessing for my setup you would recommend 650w, or a 750w for overclocking?

Depends, if noise is not an issue then 750W would be a plenty, even 650W probably, if you want some quietness under full load (but Vega wouldn't be very quiet anyway then i guess) then 850W makes more sense.

 

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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Very helpfull list. Thanks!

 

The point of the one province in China, is that many of the power supplies made there are often made in the same plant. they are nearly all the same... but when one puts more wattage without changing the engineering, to meet a marketing brochure, then you have probably gained nothing.
The part the differentiates the power supplies is the UL code on the label Some brand names and models have identical UL code is the same, meaning it has been tested by United Laboratories, and accepted for US distribution.

As to backing it up, a Gurgle search will provde you with plenty. There have been some super articles by PCPower and Cooling in CPU magazine, among others.

In general, wattage is not very important once it is above 550 watts, as long as the distribution along the 12V rail(s) is correct. Amperage that is steady is critical. A great cooling fan. Quality transisters, resistors, circuit boards... and the ability to maintain steady output underload.
Except for a few of the PC Power and Cooling power supplies, you don't know what you have, if anything, with a high wattage unit.
Do a Gurgle search for power supply reviews... for those that are tested under load, and tested for heat and circuit fidelity.
As mentioned above, if it has reserve power after supplying the needs of the video graphics card, the engineering is probably good regardless of the wattage on the label.
The power supply postings on this forum that list acceptable models is pretty good, although they downrate some pretty good power supplies that I have never seen fail.
Properly referenced, the power supply in most of the computers you will work on are referenced as "Constand voltage switching power supply," and this is supposed to mean that the power supply puts out the same voltate to all the interal components, no matter the voltage of the AC current that runs it, or the capacity of that power supply. Switching power supply refers to the techniques used in regulation to assure that the power supply perform these tasks in a small, standard sized unit, at a low price.
But it has become a place to make a lot of profit. It wasn't that long ago that a good power supply cost $35 and a great one cost $65. Most of the rest is money in the bank, not performance for the computer. Only the improved designs of video graphics components changed that mix.
Most failures were to lousy components in the power supply. Some were sold in volume for $5.00 each to the likes of such manufacturers as Compaq and the rest.
There are basically needs for +3.3 Volts, +5 volts, and +12 volt rails, which were techically set aside to be independent within the power supply. But the cheapos started finding ways to share circuitry, making them less independent than they should be, and thus a lot less reliable.
Finally, the power supply must ensure that the system doesn't run unless and until the voltages supplied are able to operate the system properly. The power supply should actually prevent startup if there is not sufficient power detected by the motherboard. This Power Good signal must always be present in order for the motherboard to run.
When the power supply is well built with quality components that do not burn out like a light bulb, then good power results. When the power dips or rises, the signal that there is good power is gone, and the computer resets.
In gamer systems, there are many devices that detect that power output is correct. Video cards won't run without it. Memory will not. So that output of the power supply must be adequate for all demands, regardless of what demands are made on it. Poor components and circuits too far out of range foul up this system. Some computers quit. Some burn out key componets before they have time to quit.
The better the circutry, the better the power supply meets the demands on all these rails. Some are not engineered well enough to do so. Some do not have electrical components adeequate to the task. Some burn out.

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@Juular hey man. i gotta ask something & its kinda eating away at me.

 

let me know if you are comfortable discussing this privately ( or in discord ? ) 

 

 i am ready to buy a PSU now and i was going for CM MWE gold which is TIER B+ . ( a bit overbudget, but i was gonna go for it anyways, by doing some austerity measures in other parts of my life )

 

however, due to lockdown, all PSU stock for brands like Corsair, CM, Antec is mostly out of stock... i fear my PSU might not be good enough and my PC might be in danger

 

 but i need it daily to run for at least 12 hours, as i work from home... i'm in a tight spot here.

 

what would you suggest i do ? the only brands that are in stock are thermal take and Redragon ... which i guess you don't like too much

 

i am really worried. would appreciate some expert opinion on this

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2 hours ago, Yaxir said:

the only brands that are in stock are thermal take and Redragon

We have a tier list here, if these PSUs are at least from tier B then they're good enough, maybe even tier C if you really tight on budget or can't find anything else.

Tag or quote me so i see your reply

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3 hours ago, Juular said:

We have a tier list here, if these PSUs are at least from tier B then they're good enough, maybe even tier C if you really tight on budget or can't find anything else.

ok bro, guess i'll try to scrap something possible from Tier B

 

hopefully its a safe solution

 

thanks

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Probably a minute detail, but. When mentioning "high end gaming system" or "midrange". How would you define those? For instance, a GPU requiring 1x6pin PCI-E power cable would be regarded as "entry level", while something with 2x(2+6pin) is more like a high-tier? A former revision used to refer to the connections required by a graphics card. Are those guidelines still available?

Life is really challenging. I don't always suceed: )

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