Posted May 30, 2019 1 hour ago, porina said: Trying to reach anything on the top part of a mobo after fitting a big air cooler. I still have the scars to show for it... I once saw what looked to be red ketchup on the fins of my Noctua D15S - it was me slicing my hand when trying to connect the power cable from the psu to the cpu power connection on a MEG ACE Z390 inside of an RL06 case. In hindsight I should have just removed the upper portion of the heatsink and plugged in the power cable and the reattached it since it is only 2 screws. Why was I in that case? For gripe number 2: When the set of screws are the same length and color from both the set of screws that come with the Motherboard and the set that comes with the PC case. It was my first time building a computer from parts and I naively thought that same size and color motherboard screws and case screws were interchangeable. Well any time I tried to move the case to test another computer or monitor or peripheral accessory and needed to get to the back panel, a motherboard screw would drop to the bottom of the case from the standoff. I couldn't understand why I simply could not mount the motherboard to the case - the screws wouldnt tighten even hand-tight. The problem was that the screws with the same size/shape/color were not threaded exactly the same. Suddenly that extra set of motherboard/case screws was not an extra set. PRO TIP: Always use the set of screws that are paired with the standoffs that came with the case - if you are planning on building your first PC from the ground up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 Screws. Connectors that get stuck and rip off. I had a usb 3 header rip off of my motherboard... lucky I had two of them but still annoys me. Main Gaming and Streaming PC: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Vinsinity/saved/TjwVnQ Ultrabook and College Laptop: Spoiler XPS 13 9350: i5-6200U 8GB RAM Samsung PM951 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive Workstation Laptop: Spoiler Sager NP8672 (P670SG): i7-4720HQ 32GB (4 x 8GB) CORSAIR Vengeance Performance Samsung 850 EVO 250GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Boot Drive) Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2 Solid State Drive (Video Drive) Crucial MX100 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (Secondary SDD Storage) Western Digital (Blue or Black) 1TB 2.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (Storage Drive) GeForce GTX 980M 4G Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 1- When the PSU cables are too short or too long 2- When the PSU cables are too stiff 3- Molex connectors in modern components 4- Acrylic side/front panels (i'm practically specialized in damaging those, when i build a system for a client i leave the protective plastic on) Project Diesel 5.0: Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming /// CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X /// CPU Cooler: Scythe Ninja 5 /// GPU: Zotac AMP Extreme RTX 2070 /// RAM: 2x 16gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @3200mhz /// Chassis: Lian Li Lancool One Digital (black) /// PSU: Super Flower Leadex III 750w /// Storage: Inland Premium 1TB NVME + Toshiba X300 4TB Peripherals: Mice: Cooler Master MM720 /// Keyboard: Corsair K70 MK2 SE (Cherry Silver), Blitzwolf BW-KB1 (Gateron Reds) /// Monitor: Acer XZ320Q 32' (VA, 1080p @240hz) /// AMP: Topping PA3 (Onkyo Integra A-817XD undergoing restoration) /// DAC: Weiliang SU5 /// Speakers: AAT BSF-100 /// Mike: Alctron CS35U /// Headphones: Blon B8, ISK MDH-9000 Living room: TV: Samsung QLED Q7FN 55' 4k /// Amplifier: Denon AVR-X2400H /// Speakers: DALI Zensor 7 /// Consoles: Sony PS4 Pro 1TB, Sony PS3 500gb /// LD/CD/DVD: Pioneer DVL-909 /// Power Supplies: Upsai ACF-2100T + GR Savage CDR2200EX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 What infuriates me the most are motherboard connectors for case buttons, those dumb thin pins with garbage markings. We make standards for all sorts of things, but no one bothered to fix this shit in decades and make some sort of standardized connector that you just stick in and it connects PWR, RESET, HDD etc buttons and LEDs correctly. And then you're sticking those thin connectors on even thinner pins on the motherboard with shit in your way like a freaking brain surgeon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 3 minutes ago, Mr. horse said: Whats wrong with that? They can handle a more amps then a Sata connector and can be more cleanly managed or crimped. But generally the connectors on said peripherals are rather fragile, which can result in damaged pins inside the connectors. Not to mention having to connect a whole molex rail when you need just one molex connector, like on my system where the "InWin" logo lights up connected via molex. Project Diesel 5.0: Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming /// CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X /// CPU Cooler: Scythe Ninja 5 /// GPU: Zotac AMP Extreme RTX 2070 /// RAM: 2x 16gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @3200mhz /// Chassis: Lian Li Lancool One Digital (black) /// PSU: Super Flower Leadex III 750w /// Storage: Inland Premium 1TB NVME + Toshiba X300 4TB Peripherals: Mice: Cooler Master MM720 /// Keyboard: Corsair K70 MK2 SE (Cherry Silver), Blitzwolf BW-KB1 (Gateron Reds) /// Monitor: Acer XZ320Q 32' (VA, 1080p @240hz) /// AMP: Topping PA3 (Onkyo Integra A-817XD undergoing restoration) /// DAC: Weiliang SU5 /// Speakers: AAT BSF-100 /// Mike: Alctron CS35U /// Headphones: Blon B8, ISK MDH-9000 Living room: TV: Samsung QLED Q7FN 55' 4k /// Amplifier: Denon AVR-X2400H /// Speakers: DALI Zensor 7 /// Consoles: Sony PS4 Pro 1TB, Sony PS3 500gb /// LD/CD/DVD: Pioneer DVL-909 /// Power Supplies: Upsai ACF-2100T + GR Savage CDR2200EX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 1 minute ago, Mr. horse said: I never seen that before. I seen SATA pins get damaged on the cable. but not molex. It mostly happens on cheaper fans, so to be fair its not a huge problem. Project Diesel 5.0: Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming /// CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X /// CPU Cooler: Scythe Ninja 5 /// GPU: Zotac AMP Extreme RTX 2070 /// RAM: 2x 16gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @3200mhz /// Chassis: Lian Li Lancool One Digital (black) /// PSU: Super Flower Leadex III 750w /// Storage: Inland Premium 1TB NVME + Toshiba X300 4TB Peripherals: Mice: Cooler Master MM720 /// Keyboard: Corsair K70 MK2 SE (Cherry Silver), Blitzwolf BW-KB1 (Gateron Reds) /// Monitor: Acer XZ320Q 32' (VA, 1080p @240hz) /// AMP: Topping PA3 (Onkyo Integra A-817XD undergoing restoration) /// DAC: Weiliang SU5 /// Speakers: AAT BSF-100 /// Mike: Alctron CS35U /// Headphones: Blon B8, ISK MDH-9000 Living room: TV: Samsung QLED Q7FN 55' 4k /// Amplifier: Denon AVR-X2400H /// Speakers: DALI Zensor 7 /// Consoles: Sony PS4 Pro 1TB, Sony PS3 500gb /// LD/CD/DVD: Pioneer DVL-909 /// Power Supplies: Upsai ACF-2100T + GR Savage CDR2200EX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 Very snug connectors, especially smaller ones that connect to the motherboard, such as USB headers, CPU EPS power, etc. When a pair of needlenose pliers weren't available, those could be a real whore to disconnect. New Build (The Compromise): CPU - i7 9700K @ 5.1Ghz | Mobo - ASRock Z390 Taichi | RAM - 16GB G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 3200CL14 @ 3466 14-14-14-30 1T | GPU - ASUS Strix GTX 1080 TI | Cooler - Corsair h100i Pro | SSDs - 500 GB 960 EVO + 500 GB 850 EVO + 1TB MX300 | Case - Coolermaster H500 | PSU - EVGA 850 P2 | Monitor - LG 32GK850G-B 144hz 1440p | OS - Windows 10 Pro. Peripherals - Corsair K70 Lux RGB | Corsair Scimitar RGB | Audio-technica ATH M50X + Antlion Modmic 5 | CPU/GPU history: Athlon 6000+/HD4850 > i7 2600k/GTX 580, R9 390, R9 Fury > i7 7700K/R9 Fury, 1080TI > Ryzen 1700/1080TI > i7 9700K/1080TI. Other tech: Surface Pro 4 (i5/128GB), Lenovo Ideapad Y510P w/ Kali, OnePlus 6T (8G/128G), PS4 Slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 2 minutes ago, Mr. horse said: I think I know what your talking about now. You mean like when the terminal jest bent and you keep trying to shove the cable in making the problem worse? Yep, precisely! Project Diesel 5.0: Motherboard: ASRock Fatal1ty X370 Professional Gaming /// CPU: Ryzen 5 3600X /// CPU Cooler: Scythe Ninja 5 /// GPU: Zotac AMP Extreme RTX 2070 /// RAM: 2x 16gb G.Skill Ripjaws V @3200mhz /// Chassis: Lian Li Lancool One Digital (black) /// PSU: Super Flower Leadex III 750w /// Storage: Inland Premium 1TB NVME + Toshiba X300 4TB Peripherals: Mice: Cooler Master MM720 /// Keyboard: Corsair K70 MK2 SE (Cherry Silver), Blitzwolf BW-KB1 (Gateron Reds) /// Monitor: Acer XZ320Q 32' (VA, 1080p @240hz) /// AMP: Topping PA3 (Onkyo Integra A-817XD undergoing restoration) /// DAC: Weiliang SU5 /// Speakers: AAT BSF-100 /// Mike: Alctron CS35U /// Headphones: Blon B8, ISK MDH-9000 Living room: TV: Samsung QLED Q7FN 55' 4k /// Amplifier: Denon AVR-X2400H /// Speakers: DALI Zensor 7 /// Consoles: Sony PS4 Pro 1TB, Sony PS3 500gb /// LD/CD/DVD: Pioneer DVL-909 /// Power Supplies: Upsai ACF-2100T + GR Savage CDR2200EX Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 24 minutes ago, Mr. horse said: Asus tried to fix that with those quick disconnect things. EDIT: These https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Q-Connector I know, I had them on my high end boards. They never come with cheap ones which sucks hard. And you still need to place wires in correct order and polarity which is still such an annoying chore... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 Having to sacrifice either usability or looks if I want a good motherboard. Check out my guide on how to scan cover art here! Local asshole and 6th generation console enthusiast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 I want more case manufacturers to have one connector for the front panel connectors. Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved" Community Standards // Join Floatplane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 3 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said: I want more case manufacturers to have one connector for the front panel connectors. This, except maybe the front panel audio. Noise and crosstalk could be epic, as if it wasn't already lol. New Build (The Compromise): CPU - i7 9700K @ 5.1Ghz | Mobo - ASRock Z390 Taichi | RAM - 16GB G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 3200CL14 @ 3466 14-14-14-30 1T | GPU - ASUS Strix GTX 1080 TI | Cooler - Corsair h100i Pro | SSDs - 500 GB 960 EVO + 500 GB 850 EVO + 1TB MX300 | Case - Coolermaster H500 | PSU - EVGA 850 P2 | Monitor - LG 32GK850G-B 144hz 1440p | OS - Windows 10 Pro. Peripherals - Corsair K70 Lux RGB | Corsair Scimitar RGB | Audio-technica ATH M50X + Antlion Modmic 5 | CPU/GPU history: Athlon 6000+/HD4850 > i7 2600k/GTX 580, R9 390, R9 Fury > i7 7700K/R9 Fury, 1080TI > Ryzen 1700/1080TI > i7 9700K/1080TI. Other tech: Surface Pro 4 (i5/128GB), Lenovo Ideapad Y510P w/ Kali, OnePlus 6T (8G/128G), PS4 Slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 20+4 ATX main power connector somehow not being ZIF (zero insertion force) sockets. I'm sure there's a way to make that plug not require pushing so hard that you feel like you're going to break something. For that matter, ZIF PCIe x16 slots Motherboard trays should be removable so mounting the mobo is not a nightmare All motherboards should include standoffs and proper screws as well as a proper adapter to screw them into the tray ALL standoffs should all act as alignment pins too so it's not so fiddly to get aligned Screw-in points should be free of sensitive components and traces so over-tightening won't potentially break something I/O shields should be mounted on the motherboard Cases should be user dismantle-able without needing dremels or angle grinders, to have more options when mounting components and running cables Mounting components (besides like, the CPU cooler and M.2 drive) should be tool-less. RGB and aRGB should be standardized so there's not 6 or 7 different ones that all require different adapters and/or software. The BIOS options to adjust color on the motherboard or turn it off entirely. RAM slots should all be double-lever because single-lever can sometimes be fiddly ZIF slots here would also be welcome Adapters for front panel connectors, or a standard for front panel connectors so the case manufacturers can make all the cables in one plug USB 3.0 plugs are total bullshit and far too easy to damage. They should be something like a SATA connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 Just now, Phentos said: This, except maybe the front panel audio. Noise and crosstalk could be epic, as if it wasn't already lol. Audio is usually separate from the main front panel connectors anyway. I want the power switch, reset switch(if applicable), and LEDs to all be one connector. Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved" Community Standards // Join Floatplane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 1 minute ago, HarryNyquist said: Motherboard trays should be removable so mounting the mobo is not a nightmare Old Lian-Li cases have this as a feature. Remove 4 thumbscrews, entire back panel and motherboard tray slide right out. Super convenient not only for builders, but also for people like me who need motherboard trays and back panels for projects. I agree with modularity, I want more cases that can be easily torn down and rearranged in Dark Base 700 fashion. Quote or tag me( @Crunchy Dragon) if you want me to see your reply If a post solved your problem/answered your question, please consider marking it as "solved" Community Standards // Join Floatplane! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 nothing. i fucking love every aspect of it lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 The parts i struggled most with where ... those tiny tiny 1 pin connectors that are used for the lights on your case... i mean i'm not sure anymore how and or why but if i remember correctly i had to place them after the motherboard was already connected to the case.... Another part i struggled a lot with was the position of the cpu fan controller located on the upper side of the aorus motherboard. this is this huge cpu system fan which barely leaves any room to maneuver. and with the cable lenght its impossible to put in first if you only have one set of hands available.I even had to switch the fan 90 degrees to make it possible for me to connect the cable ..... other then that .. i'm just a newb who, last year, build and rebuild his current and previous system a couple of times ... i'm hoping the only thing left this year is installing a new gpu and that's it! components used in this lie be quiet shadowrock tf 2 be quiet silentbase 601 gigabyte auros ultra gamig x470 p.s. The manual was exceptional unclear about how those 1 pin connectors should fit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 10 minutes ago, Crunchy Dragon said: Audio is usually separate from the main front panel connectors anyway. I want the power switch, reset switch(if applicable), and LEDs to all be one connector. True. I thought you meant like everything except front panel usb in one thicc janky cord lmao. Sorry I am getting pretty faded atm. New Build (The Compromise): CPU - i7 9700K @ 5.1Ghz | Mobo - ASRock Z390 Taichi | RAM - 16GB G.SKILL TridentZ RGB 3200CL14 @ 3466 14-14-14-30 1T | GPU - ASUS Strix GTX 1080 TI | Cooler - Corsair h100i Pro | SSDs - 500 GB 960 EVO + 500 GB 850 EVO + 1TB MX300 | Case - Coolermaster H500 | PSU - EVGA 850 P2 | Monitor - LG 32GK850G-B 144hz 1440p | OS - Windows 10 Pro. Peripherals - Corsair K70 Lux RGB | Corsair Scimitar RGB | Audio-technica ATH M50X + Antlion Modmic 5 | CPU/GPU history: Athlon 6000+/HD4850 > i7 2600k/GTX 580, R9 390, R9 Fury > i7 7700K/R9 Fury, 1080TI > Ryzen 1700/1080TI > i7 9700K/1080TI. Other tech: Surface Pro 4 (i5/128GB), Lenovo Ideapad Y510P w/ Kali, OnePlus 6T (8G/128G), PS4 Slim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 When the god damm PC doesnt turn on because one skrew isnt in. Seriously when I replaced my PSU and the thing refused to turn on and kept tripping the surge protection. Ended up being that I was missing a skrew and then it finally powered on Primary Laptop (Gearsy MK4): Ryzen 9 5900HX, Radeon RX 6800M, Radeon Vega 8 Mobile, 24 GB DDR4 2400 Mhz, 512 GB SSD+1TB SSD, 15.6 in 300 Hz IPS display 2021 Asus ROG Strix G15 Advantage Edition Secondary Laptop (Uni MK2): Ryzen 7 5800HS, Nvidia GTX 1650, Radeon Vega 8 Mobile, 16 GB DDR4 3200 Mhz, 512 GB SSD 2021 Asus ROG Zephyrus G14 Meme Machine (Uni MK1): Shintel Core i5 7200U, Nvidia GT 940MX, 24 GB DDR4 2133 Mhz, 256 GB SSD+500GB HDD, 15.6 in TN Display 2016 Acer Aspire E5 575 Retired Laptop (Gearsy MK2): Ryzen 5 2500U, Radeon Vega 8 Mobile, 12 GB 2400 Mhz DDR4, 256 GB NVME SSD, 15.6" 1080p IPS Touchscreen 2017 HP Envy X360 15z (Ryzen) PC (Gearsy): A6 3650, HD 6530D , 8 GB 1600 Mhz Kingston DDR3, Some Random Mobo Lol, EVGA 450W BT PSU, Stock Cooler, 128 GB Kingston SSD, 1 TB WD Blue 7200 RPM HP P7 1234 (Yes It's Actually Called That) RIP Also im happy to answer any Ryzen Mobile questions if anyone is interested! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted May 30, 2019 37 minutes ago, Silentprototipe said: When the god damm PC doesnt turn on because one skrew isnt in. Seriously when I replaced my PSU and the thing refused to turn on and kept tripping the surge protection. Ended up being that I was missing a skrew and then it finally powered on That doesn't sound normal... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted February 6, 2021 I have uncontrollable shaky hands that seems to be most prominent when I am working on sensitive and small components. Due to this it’s often very hard to properly assemble parts and plug in single pin connectors. Not to mention, I lose a lot of fan screws because of this 🥲 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted February 6, 2021 When laptops are held together with a ridiculous number of screws. Had to take apart this hateful thing just to fish out the power button that got pushed through the chassis and there were 19 screws holding the bottom cover on, not including the 4 to remove the RAM and HDD access panels. Why do we need this many screws for a 13 inch laptop. Especially when newer notebooks don't even have easily removable service bays (where the whole bottom cover has to come out), performing upgrades to multiple units is extremely time consuming and tedious because of course they use a combination of different screw types. Intel® Core™ i7-12700 | GIGABYTE B660 AORUS MASTER DDR4 | Gigabyte Radeon™ RX 6650 XT Gaming OC | 32GB Corsair Vengeance® RGB Pro SL DDR4 | Samsung 990 Pro 1TB | WD Green 1.5TB | Windows 11 Pro | NZXT H510 Flow White Sony MDR-V250 | GNT-500 | Logitech G610 Orion Brown | Logitech G402 | Samsung C27JG5 | ASUS ProArt PA238QR iPhone 12 Mini (iOS 17.2.1) | iPhone XR (iOS 17.2.1) | iPad Mini (iOS 9.3.5) | KZ AZ09 Pro x KZ ZSN Pro X | Sennheiser HD450bt Intel® Core™ i7-1265U | Kioxia KBG50ZNV512G | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Enterprise | HP EliteBook 650 G9 Intel® Core™ i5-8520U | WD Blue M.2 250GB | 1TB Seagate FireCuda | 16GB DDR4 | Windows 11 Home | ASUS Vivobook 15 Intel® Core™ i7-3520M | GT 630M | 16 GB Corsair Vengeance® DDR3 | Samsung 850 EVO 250GB | macOS Catalina | Lenovo IdeaPad P580 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted February 6, 2021 Connecting the PC to the peripherals from behind my desk I find to be a miserable pain in the rump. By comparison, everything in the PC is pretty much a cakewalk. My eyes see the past… My camera lens sees the present… Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted February 6, 2021 People who buy an NVME M.2, OP PSU and RGB everything then can’t afford a decent GPU and CPU... How hard is a 250GB SATA SSD for OS, 1TB SATA SSD for games and a 2TB HDD... Then just buy the recommended PSU for your GPU. i5 8600 - RX580 - Fractal Nano S - 1080p 144Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Posted February 8, 2021 Non-removeable batteries in laptops. The nasty (thanks Apple!) trend of thinner! Thinner! THINNER!!! at the expense of upgradability. NOTE: I no longer frequent this site. If you really need help, PM/DM me and my e.mail will alert me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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