Car Enthusiast Club [Now Motorcycle friendly!] - First thread to 150k! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[FakeFBI]

8 hours ago, bcredeur97 said:

Nah. It’s a Honda G25A

brh, i never really looked at a g engine,

[Spotty]

Crankshaft position sensors can suck my crankshaft.

Did someone JB weld this bugger in? Cannot for the life of me get it out.

[lboolaka_33]

On 3/9/2021 at 9:51 PM, bcredeur97 said:

it’s just never happened never been that interested. If I want a boxer that badly I’d rather have a Porsche lol

I like Porsche (partly due to my love of boxers), but I'd be afraid of owning one. I get that they're supposedly extremely well built, but I'm more worried about the costs of parts and the amount of labor needed. 

[Bitter]

1 hour ago, Spotty said:

Crankshaft position sensors can suck my crankshaft.

Did someone JB weld this bugger in? Cannot for the life of me get it out.

Is it a Jeep/Chrysler by any chance?

[Spotty]

10 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Is it a Jeep/Chrysler by any chance?

Nah, it's a Nissan

Chrysler isn't in Australia and Jeep only barely exists.

 

Edit: Oh, wow. Apparently Chrysler is in Australia. I don't think I've ever seen a Chrysler.

Edited March 11, 2021 by Spotty

[FakeFBI]

1 hour ago, Spotty said:

Edit: Oh, wow. Apparently Chrysler is in Australia. I don't think I've ever seen a Chrysler.

for a second i thought they had some holden version, until i realized chrysler doesn't even exist in gm, but chrysler sold the 1970s charger in australia pretty sure

[vetali]

1 hour ago, Spotty said:

Nah, it's a Nissan

Chrysler isn't in Australia and Jeep only barely exists.

 

Edit: Oh, wow. Apparently Chrysler is in Australia. I don't think I've ever seen a Chrysler.

GM 8.1 takes the cake for the most difficult camshaft position sensor in my books. Plus if it breaks then you activate hard mode.

[Bitter]

4 minutes ago, vetali said:

GM 8.1 takes the cake for the most difficult camshaft position sensor in my books. Plus if it breaks then you activate hard mode.

I love the rusty Jeep CKP on the 4.7. I even made a special tool to reem out the hole with a hammer, works on the 4.0 too. Just a bolt with the right diameter with the head cut flat on one side so it clears to pound into the hole, cut some flutes on it to let me turn it side to side to cut out the rust. Not fancy but it's the fastest way I've found to get the home clean once the oil pan is off, cause you can't get the frome the outside anymore. 

 

Thankfully I haven't ran up against 8.1 problems, don't see many around here.

[vetali]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I love the rusty Jeep CKP on the 4.7. I even made a special tool to reem out the hole with a hammer, works on the 4.0 too. Just a bolt with the right diameter with the head cut flat on one side so it clears to pound into the hole, cut some flutes on it to let me turn it side to side to cut out the rust. Not fancy but it's the fastest way I've found to get the home clean once the oil pan is off, cause you can't get the frome the outside anymore. 

 

Thankfully I haven't ran up against 8.1 problems, don't see many around here.

I actually don't even know where the 4.7 is. Usually they drop a valve seat and get sent to the scrap heap before that fails.

 

I only worked on one GM 8.1. That crank sensor was it lol.

[atxcyclist]

3 hours ago, lboolaka_33 said:

I like Porsche (partly due to my love of boxers), but I'd be afraid of owning one. I get that they're supposedly extremely well built, but I'm more worried about the costs of parts and the amount of labor needed. 

Many of them are very expensive to maintain even if you do the work yourself, and many of the newer ones require an extreme amount of disassembly to do fairly routine maintenance. I have a friend that's an absolute masochist and buys only German cars, and to be honest they are constantly in a state of disrepair because the parts are so expensive.

 

I have liked every Porsche I've had the opportunity to drive, but I too wouldn't own one.

[Spotty]

45 minutes ago, vetali said:

GM 8.1 takes the cake for the most difficult camshaft position sensor in my books. Plus if it breaks then you activate hard mode.

 

35 minutes ago, Bitter said:

I love the rusty Jeep CKP on the 4.7. I even made a special tool to reem out the hole with a hammer, works on the 4.0 too. Just a bolt with the right diameter with the head cut flat on one side so it clears to pound into the hole, cut some flutes on it to let me turn it side to side to cut out the rust. Not fancy but it's the fastest way I've found to get the home clean once the oil pan is off, cause you can't get the frome the outside anymore. 

 

Thankfully I haven't ran up against 8.1 problems, don't see many around here.

It's a Nissan N16 engine. Any tips for getting the blasted thing out without destroying it? I tried getting a flathead screwdriver in there to pry it out but it was so tight I couldn't even get that in.

It's in a pretty awful spot to work as well, tucked under the starter motor behind the engine. Not really much room to get tools in there and I can't actually see it I can only feel around for it.

 

Registration is due in a few weeks and I need it to pass inspection to get that. Might just get the mechanics to do it but I'm pretty sure they'd have just as much trouble with it as I'm having, and it's barely driveable in its current state so getting it to a mechanic is a bit of an issue as well. Really not looking forward to paying a few hundred to get it fixed on top of the $600 to register and insure it for another year.

[vetali]

8 hours ago, Spotty said:

 

It's a Nissan N16 engine. Any tips for getting the blasted thing out without destroying it? I tried getting a flathead screwdriver in there to pry it out but it was so tight I couldn't even get that in.

It's in a pretty awful spot to work as well, tucked under the starter motor behind the engine. Not really much room to get tools in there and I can't actually see it I can only feel around for it.

 

Registration is due in a few weeks and I need it to pass inspection to get that. Might just get the mechanics to do it but I'm pretty sure they'd have just as much trouble with it as I'm having, and it's barely driveable in its current state so getting it to a mechanic is a bit of an issue as well. Really not looking forward to paying a few hundred to get it fixed on top of the $600 to register and insure it for another year.

if you can get it to start turning it usually frees itself up after that. Lots of people just try to pry it out once you get it starting to come up and thats a big mistake. I spray some penetrating oil down where it starts separating and push it back in. Then it usually comes out without any issue, unless you are working on a rust heap.

[Bitter]

11 hours ago, vetali said:

I actually don't even know where the 4.7 is. Usually they drop a valve seat and get sent to the scrap heap before that fails.

 

I only worked on one GM 8.1. That crank sensor was it lol.

My bad, not the 4.7 the one before those. 5.2? They all blend together lol rust is rust haha.

[Bitter]

Fucking Nissan...learn to label your damn connectors! Diagrams show wires numbered sequentially across 3 connectors from 1 to 112, connectors have A, B,C,D,etc down one axis and 1,2,3,etc down the other to make a letter number grid. Ok ok fine I figure that out and go to do my 4 guide wires to verify connector orientation, all 4 corners are black/white. Come on guys. And they repeat colors A LOT on the same connectors. Probably a dead ECM anyway but I need to make sure.

[FakeFBI]

11 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Fucking Nissan...learn to label your damn connectors! Diagrams show wires numbered sequentially across 3 connectors from 1 to 112, connectors have A, B,C,D,etc down one axis and 1,2,3,etc down the other to make a letter number grid. Ok ok fine I figure that out and go to do my 4 guide wires to verify connector orientation, all 4 corners are black/white. Come on guys. And they repeat colors A LOT on the same connectors. Probably a dead ECM anyway but I need to make sure.

i just tried powering i tiny tiny fan with a lemon, didnt work ://///

[vetali]

7 hours ago, Bitter said:

My bad, not the 4.7 the one before those. 5.2? They all blend together lol rust is rust haha.

5.2s aren't too bad to get at. Mine still hasn't gone bad. Apparently its really common

[Bitter]

6 hours ago, Bitter said:

Fucking Nissan...learn to label your damn connectors! Diagrams show wires numbered sequentially across 3 connectors from 1 to 112, connectors have A, B,C,D,etc down one axis and 1,2,3,etc down the other to make a letter number grid. Ok ok fine I figure that out and go to do my 4 guide wires to verify connector orientation, all 4 corners are black/white. Come on guys. And they repeat colors A LOT on the same connectors. Probably a dead ECM anyway but I need to make sure.

Yes, it was an ECM! Can-low was messed up when the ECM was plugged in and talking but the other modules could comms with the scan tool still. Can low was only pulling down to around 1/3 the voltage it was supposed to be when the ECM was on the data bus. Take it off the Can't Bus and my signals looked correct on the scope. First step, replace the $1000 computer and see if it works. Owner thinks he's a car flipper or some shit, I think he got burned on this one.

5 hours ago, FakeFBI said:

i just tried powering i tiny tiny fan with a lemon, didnt work ://///

Try a tiny LED with a joule thief circuit.

9 minutes ago, vetali said:

5.2s aren't too bad to get at. Mine still hasn't gone bad. Apparently its really common

Not bad to get to but it's buried into the rusty block, nearly every one I've done I've had to pull the oil pan and push out from the inside. It's not bad, just annoying. What's bad is getting the hole cleaned up to take the new sensor, hence my special tool. No room to use a die grinder and you'd be going for ages with a file by hand. This you just knock in there and ram the rust through then do a little light clean up by hand. Of course since I made the tool I haven't had to do one, go figure!

[FakeFBI]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

Try a tiny LED with a joule thief circuit.

how many lemons to power 12v, the fan is about 5cm on all sides maybe even 3.5cm company rated it 12v, i have no 9v battereys around, only the car batterys can power it, im seeing how much air it can blow and how effective, maybe inda stupid

[Bitter]

18 hours ago, Spotty said:

 

It's a Nissan N16 engine. Any tips for getting the blasted thing out without destroying it? I tried getting a flathead screwdriver in there to pry it out but it was so tight I couldn't even get that in.

It's in a pretty awful spot to work as well, tucked under the starter motor behind the engine. Not really much room to get tools in there and I can't actually see it I can only feel around for it.

 

Registration is due in a few weeks and I need it to pass inspection to get that. Might just get the mechanics to do it but I'm pretty sure they'd have just as much trouble with it as I'm having, and it's barely driveable in its current state so getting it to a mechanic is a bit of an issue as well. Really not looking forward to paying a few hundred to get it fixed on top of the $600 to register and insure it for another year.

We don't have that engine in 'Murica but the QR looks mighty similar.

10 hours ago, vetali said:

if you can get it to start turning it usually frees itself up after that. Lots of people just try to pry it out once you get it starting to come up and thats a big mistake. I spray some penetrating oil down where it starts separating and push it back in. Then it usually comes out without any issue, unless you are working on a rust heap.

Turning is good, turn and pull/pry out gently. If a vice grips can lock onto it without crushing it that'll make an ear to pry against while turning side to side. Everything I work on is a seized mess, you get better at finessing the parts off and back on lol. Small hands help too, I can do VQ30 knock sensors without taking anything but the sensor off. Too bad we don't get any VQ30's anymore, talk about a money maker! Turn a 4 hour job into about 15-20 minutes.

[Bitter]

3 minutes ago, FakeFBI said:

how many lemons to power 12v, the fan is about 5cm on all sides maybe even 3.5cm company rated it 12v, i have no 9v battereys around, only the car batterys can power it, im seeing how much air it can blow and how effective, maybe inda stupid

More lemons than it would cost to just buy a 12V wall wart to run it off.

[FakeFBI]

12 minutes ago, Bitter said:

More lemons than it would cost to just buy a 12V wall wart to run it off.

potato??? it could charge a 4v phone charger

[Bitter]

2 minutes ago, FakeFBI said:

potato??? it could charge a 4v phone charger

 

[FakeFBI]

3 minutes ago, Bitter said:

 

Me watch that before

[Spotty]

14 hours ago, vetali said:

if you can get it to start turning it usually frees itself up after that. Lots of people just try to pry it out once you get it starting to come up and thats a big mistake. I spray some penetrating oil down where it starts separating and push it back in. Then it usually comes out without any issue, unless you are working on a rust heap.

Tried again today, still no luck. Can't really rotate it that far, only a little room to rotate either way before it bangs up against metal. This is as far clockwise as it would go.

 

 

Thanks for the tips though.

[atxcyclist]

31 minutes ago, Spotty said:

Tried again today, still no luck. Can't really rotate it that far, only a little room to rotate either way before it bangs up against metal. This is as far clockwise as it would go.

 

Thanks for the tips though.

Something you might try if you can move it just a little bit outward, would be something like guitar string or very high-tension braided fishing line to pull it outward (yeah, these are not necessarily household items). Be careful and use heavy gloves when pulling to keep from cutting into your hand. As a last ditch a drill, tap, and some sort of makeshift bolt used as a puller a little ways into the middle of the sensor itself, but it could end up falling apart and maybe into the case it's stuck in.