Albert F

I agree, just switch to 11, if you like teh Design more. it's not like anything "needs" Windows 11 to run in first place.
You'd be fine with 10 for the next 2,5 years tho, maybe Windows 12 comes out by then.
 
Btw, i personally switched to Windows 10 on the Day it launched, when most people didn't like 10 and kept Windows 7.
I never looked back and thought of Windows 10 as superior from Day 1.
 
If my Desktop Computer had a newer CPU, i would've upgradet to 11 already too.

I've tried both win 10 and 11 on old and new Lenovo laptops. They behave about the same if you use them for the same stuff in a similar manner. It may vary due to driver optimizations or lack of. If you take some extra time to optimize the OS you could probably achieve even better battery life on 11 imo. (Ofcourse you could also tweak win 10 and improve its battery life further instead).
Keep in mind that a fresh OS install or upgrade may have reduced battery life for a while until it builds some caches and whatnot.
As long as your laptop covers the system requirements for windows 11 and your battery isn't nearly dead all the time, I would expect you to have a similar experience on both and you should probably pick whichever you prefer.
Doesn't hurt googling some laptop battery optimizations tips and tricks. 🙂
 
On a side note - Windows 11 is supposed to be getting only better with time since Microsoft and OEM devs are focusing more on it now.

Only wipe with fabric clothes. If too dirty cannot clean up, gently with little water. 
 
If you touch chemical, bye bye mostly. 

Creating another GMail account shouldn't be a problem, but if you want a completely separate address from a completely separate provider, Microsoft Outlook isn't likely to go away any time soon.
 
https://outlook.live.com/owa/
 
If you do create another account for recovery, use a completely separate device to do it. It's likely you were compromised client-side.

Get the screensize you like the most and then make sure it supports the apple pencil. Oh and check to get enough storage.
 
Thats about it.
 
A paper feel screen protector might be a nice buy too.
 
Can also get a last gen or 2 surface for about 400$ with nice specs

Yes. DRAM is pretty much only useful in synthetic benchmarks these days. In real world usage it's not noticeable. 
 
https://www.techpowerup.com/review/wd-blue-sn570-1-tb/16.html
 
Techpowerup rates based on real world performance and DRAMless SSDs easily make it among the top models. 

just a shitty mount in that case. Also most laptop drives is 5400 rpm, this is most likely 7200 rpm. Get some rubber o-rings or something.

it is better to get a psu with higher wattage just in case you need to drop some hardware into your pc if you get a new use case. extra headroom is always appreciated. gamers nexus did a video on the thermaltake 430W smart psu in which he said it was okay for low end pc's. it cost 30$ at the time of recording and has 5 year warranty it seems so u should check that out i guess

Quite* that's a spelling mistake from my end

The A8 has quite a bad screen as I saw it on display in a shop. The MatePad is from huawei and huawei is quite done for, if you don't have google services you are in for one heck of a strugle. The Realme Pad is the one device I have and the device I would suggest getting. It has good battery life and the speakers are quite good (not iPad level but more than your average phone). Also the screen gets quite dim if that's something you are looking for.
P.S if you need any more info about it just let me know

Maybe dust or debris in the port? try cleaning it with a slim toothpick or like a sim-removal tool
just be careful not to break it

I own a Lenovo Legion 5 Pro and I think it's everything you need. Mine even has a 165Hz 500 nits brightness screen with 2560x1600 resolution. It's a 16 inch screen in a 15.6 inch form factor. Not sure about the weight though. You should definitely check out the Lenovo Legion laptops.

Do a ram test and see if that's the issue. Use a program named memtest86+ and boot it using usb method.

So you need a color accurate panel. Best I can do is recommend a legion 5 in this price range with desired specs. Not really anything much better out there (and no oled isnt magically better putting that out here because I keep seeing thay one vivobook that has an oled but garbage color accuracy being recommended)

nvm it worked, i connected to hdmi i still can get 144hz there. Power cycled and it worked!
 

I don't know what you would consider normal?
 
Temps are fine yes, definitely not near anything critical yet. 🙂

It's cool, I just wanted to clarify so people could answer you better, because at first I thought you literally meant like a laptop carrying sleeve to go in a backpack or something.

what he said

Just keep whichever you like and sell the other at a discount then play some GAMES! 

Won't hurt anything if you don't move your PC with the GPU installed. Just make sure the I/O screws are in tight. Or support the GPU from underneath on the right side with something. Some people 3D print a scaffold to hold it, others purchase a solution online somewhere. My roommate literally uses a rubiks cube.
 
If it's stuck, might wanna turn the PC off completely, flip the switch on the PSU, and gently pry at the clip with a pair of long nose pliers. That's about all you can do without damaging it.

So that psu is sketchy as all hell. Dont get that. Get a good quality unit. No need for 850w here.
 
Poorly ventilated case get something with a mesh front.
 
A singlr stick of ram absolutly cripples performance for ryzen and even worse for the igpu. Always make sure you have at least 2 sticks. Cl16 3600mhz is the sweetspot
 
 

Dust/debris between layers of the display seems most likely to me.
A dead pixels would be a black square, a semi dead or stuck pixel would be a certain color, like red, green, blue or a combination of two of those.
 
A pixel consists of a red, green and blue LED, these are called the subpixels.. If you want black, all three subpixels are turned off, if you want white you turn all three subpixels on. Let's say the green in the pixels in broken, that means when it tries to turn on all three subpixels, only red and blue turn on; giving you a purple color (instead of the white color it should produce).
That is why I say this is dust/debris. A dead pixels would be - as you said - a square and not 'fuzzy', while a dead subpixel would give you something other than black.
 
Just to be sure the issue is not with your cable or device, try a different cable connected to a different computer/laptop, just to be sure.

Do you have other compatible CPU's to try? Maybe there's something wrong with the memory controller on the CPU

You're probably guessing correctly.
What you could do is try the GPU in another PC to make sure it is the culprit.

I would contact PHOBIO and see whats going on. Sounds wrong to me but who knows.
I wouldn't use it for ethical reasons.