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RadiatingLight

Member
  • Content Count

    9,544
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About RadiatingLight

  • Title
    Testing... 123

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bay Area
  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Intel Core I7 4770K
  • Motherboard
    GIGABYTE Z87-HD3
  • RAM
    2X 8GB DDR3
  • GPU
    GTX 1070 STRIX
  • Case
    Corsair Crystal 460X RGB
  • Storage
    220GB Sandisk SSD
  • PSU
    Corsair RM750X
  • Display(s)
    ViewSonic 1080p 24''
  • Cooling
    NZXT Kraken X62 (With 120mm Fans)
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K95 Cherry MX Brown
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

10,111 profile views
  1. no, 2x8 is perfect. The post made it look like you had 8gb total, which is not enough.
  2. I still think the 1tb ssd could be the same price as the HDD+SSD combo, but if you're outside of the USA prices might be different. For CPU cooler, if you want to overclock, then a 240mm AIO will be great.
  3. Just noticed you want a board with wifi. in that case go with this: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/PLytt6/asus-prime-z590-p-wifi-atx-lga1200-motherboard-prime-z590-p-wifi
  4. I would recommend this: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/k9xJrr it has the improvements mentioned (better air cooler, cheaper motherboard, cheaper storage) which lowers the price. You can decide to just save money and get this, or upgrade storage to 2TB, upgrade GPU, etc. I didn't touch the GPU because finding it will be a struggle on its own, good luck.
  5. Stock cooler on a 10700K? (Not only would that be a thermal nightmare, 10700K doesn't include a box cooler) I would actually recommend a slightly better aftermarket cooler to allow the 10700K enough thermal headroom to boost all the way up. Other than that, SSD can be saved on by picking a slightly cheaper one that you realistically won't notice the difference between (unless SSD performance is super important to you) you don't need to buy thermal paste because coolers come with paste pre-applied.
  6. PCH works harder when gaming somewhat, but a lot of the work it does is unrelated to gaming. The chipset connects USB devices, SATA drives, I/O, maybe the lower PCIe slots, etc. Gaming might increase the temperature a bit, but it's not dangerous. 65c is maybe a tad hot, but not unexpected because the PCH is passively cooled. tl;dr don't worry about it.
  7. General Suggestions: - get 16gb RAM at least, 8gb is really not befitting a high-end system like that. - Switch to a single 1tb SSD and ditch the hard drive. It'll be faster, maybe cheaper, and you probably won't miss that 250GB storage. To save money: - Don't get an AIO and just use the stock cooler of the 3700X (which is quite good), or get a $50 aftermarket air cooler that will be more than enough unless you're a super serious overclocker. - You don't really need to buy 6 case fans. If the case comes with 2+ fans, they'll probably be good enough. Otherwise yo
  8. Sounds stupid, but have you turned the back mounting plate 90 degrees? one side of the socket is longer than the other so try the backplate rotated.
  9. Yep those seem totally normal and fine
  10. If it works, then don't worry about the bandwidth in the tester. According to this thread: getting around 1.8-2.5Gbps seems absolutely normal. Enjoy your occulus link, if it works who cares about the numbers.
  11. Maybe a certain windows process triggers during those times that is corrupted? Try running CMD as an administrator and running `sfc /scannow` which will try to repair any corrupt windows system files.
  12. I'd go with PC 1 The CPU is much stronger, which will be a huge help for Android Studio and for your work. Nvidia's broadcast suite (RTX voice, background blur, etc.) should also be useful if you have video calls for work. Gaming performance on both PCs will be very good, but PC 2 is slightly better in gaming.
  13. Nope, existing SSD doesn't matter. Either your SSD is dead or you're installing it wrong.
  14. Are you sure you plugged everything in to the motherboard (specifically the power button) correctly? No lights at all sounds like either the motherboard isn't getting the 'power-on' signal, or you didn't plug in all the power supply cables. I'd double check your motherboard manual to make sure you're plugging the front-panel connections into the right header in the right positions, or you can try shorting the two power switch pins together manually with a screwdriver or paperclip or something. Also, does the PSU fan spin when you try to turn the pc on?
  15. Does it show up in the BIOS? AKA Is it missing from the BIOS, or just from some other program like Windows Install Media
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