andrewmp6

Don't ban players.  Silently place them on cheaters-only servers. This is about vendor incentives rather than player incentives.  Vendors continue to make money from cheaters, and don't have to be so adversarial. Input devices (mice, keyboards, gamepads) that generate private key signatures on data packets (based on embedded tamper-proof hardware to store the key), which are passed on to the server. Mouse movements that are not signed by a vendor-published public  key are a sign of cheating. Vendors should hire someone to cheat, so they know how to detect cheating, both at the user level (the wiggle), and at the lower software level (how does the code work, what mistakes might it make). Vendors should implement traps in their code designed to catch cheaters. Smarter tracking of mouse aiming statistics. It seems like a cartridge could be designed that makes it more difficult to cheat, without having to put the entire game processing engine (CPU/GPU) on the cartridge.  A tamperproof private key, and a fast encryption engine, for direct comms with the game servers that can't be intercepted or read from system memory. Anti-cheat needs to be a cross-vendor, cross-platform, cross game effort.  It could be prohibitively expensive to try to do some of these things one game at a time, but becomes much cheaper when that person you pay to cheat is learning about 20 different games.  it is also much more of a disincentive if getting banned on one game gets you banned on all the games.  
Ultimately it's about having someone who's full time job it is to maintain and constantly improve anti-cheat methods.  Paying someone to cheat so you can learn the cheating approaches would be key.
 
Regarding smarter tracking of mouse aiming statistics, I did actually write a quake aimbot years ago.  It was a quake proxy server that would inject aim-corrected mouse movements.  After I got bored with it I changed it to track how accurately other players would aim.  Kind of interesting.  But with more details you could detect cheaters.  Instead of just accuracy, keep track of how often insanely rapid mouse flicks end with a kill shot.  Or how often sudden mouse position changes land squarely on another player, whether there's a kill shot or not.  It would depend on observed behavior of existing cheating software.
 
Regarding traps, there's all sorts of possibilities.  Luke mentioned a game that detected impossible memory accesses.  You can make random protocol changes that appear to work fine with a cheat client, but trick it into revealing itself.  Or duplicate memory locations of data the cheat program accesses, and then change it some minutes into gameplay.
 
The main point is that, while yes, anti-cheat is hard, if vendors really gave a shit, or were forced to give a shit, there's a lot that could be done.
 
And a side note about Luke's claim that you can't stop cheating, because someone can just put a camera on a video screen and a robot arm on a mouse.  It's true... but if anti-cheat reduced cheaters to only that method, I submit that you will have effectively killed cheating as a rampant problem.  For one thing, such a system can not give you an information HUD that adds anything extra.  No X-Ray vision, or secret player stats or anything. All you have is a very expensive aimbot for slightly improving your aim of things that are onscreen.

You are also probably one of the only people left doing that. It takes up space in the front of the case that could be used for more fans and it's added cost for a feature that realistically 98% of people would never want. Movies and music have largely been moved to streaming with services like Netflix and Spotify, and general data transfer has been taken over by the prevalence of cheap USB drives. There are still people who have a use case for it, but it's just no where close to as common a use case as it was 5+ years ago. 

I haven't used an optical drive more than twice in the last 6 years or so. Everything I have is on a SSD, or thumb drive. I mean, I have thumb drives that can hold my entire CD music collection, and I very rarely watch anything other than YouTube. The last time I used an optical drive, it was to install Windows 10, and... I bought a cheap USB BR player for it.
 
I don't want to switch back to optical, either. They were a nightmare to use, and I'm glad I'm done with them. @__@;

I'm in the same boat, changed to AMD GPU after like 15 years. Recently upgraded from 1080ti to RX 6800, very nice performance uplift and minimal driver issues.
 
Last time I had an AMD GPU it died on me after 6 months (that was back in 2008) so it left a sour taste in my mouth.

I have the 011 mini air,With deepcool fc120 fans and as500 plus cpu cooler.At idle its super quiet and at the hardest load its maybe whisper loud if that.The 011 mini air has more room for hard drives and easier to wire manage it in the back with lots of room.

Imagine Amazon strong arming the medical industry. Prices would drop like a rock overnight.

The limit is usually on the number of LEDs due to the maximum current, which is usually around 3A I believe.  So you have to figure that out for yourself.  I'd hope the documentation for the items themselves tell you, the motherboard manual should certainly detail what is supported.

The corsair water cooling stuff is ment for a first timer with low end to middle of the road parts.You have a really hot cpu with a low end water block on it.I would be looking to replace it with https://optimuspc.com/ or heatkiller those are really the best blocks for cooling right now.

The wire you need has a different plug on the cooler end,There is nothing you can do besides getting that wire or replacing the cooler.

you can get morpheus ii core edition ,
 
quite expensive if you got the money, the only issues woud be memory and vrm cooling.

I wouldn't say Intel is offering this perk, Intel doesn't do long term support socket types. Intel historically only had boards for like one generation. I think they're doing two gens, but AMD is doing like 5.

Used cardboard & some duct tapes.

Recommended?!? No. Most mobo fan pin headers are usually 1A, which can reliably run 2 fans, 3 is going to put you over, heat the board and pins up and most likely pop a couple things. The higher end chipset mobos can have some headers that are 2A and a RARE few have had 3A headers i believe. Maybe look into a fan controller and divorce your fans from the board and turn them up and down as YOU see fit.😉  Lamptron make very good units that can put out a bunch of wattage like this:
http://www.lamptron.com/Products/fancontroller/97.html 
 
or
http://www.lamptron.com/Products/fancontroller/87.html

nothing says you cant use a rad for a res ether like a cross flow could work... back in the old days zalman had a aluminum external res witch had fins on it and option to add a fan to the top... but i dont no if that was the rad? anyway the could do some cooling i guess. posably if you had a copper res maybe🤔 for a res to have any reall difference it have to like a bathtub size and that would just use the surface area to dissipate heat...
 
a res is there to capture air bubbles so they dont get keep send thow the loop and a way to see how much flued is left in the system. a really big res is nice to fill space, looks, and when filling it to not turn on the pump as much might even be able to do it in one go.. just dont want pump to go dry.  it posable when taking loop apart to blow the rest back in to the res as well.

It is safe as long you can keep it safe. Just look at some bench test table setup where they don't even mount the PSU on the test bench. 🙂
i.e : Not putting it near something electrically conductive that can go into the PSU or the modular terminal, etc.

Be sure to check that the pc manufacturer has not used proprietary connections, as then a new psu won’t work. Looking at you Dell. 

you can do a t line as well but res are cheap...

Mayhems Hades+/Inhibitor+ added to Distilled Water.
 
Otherwise can also opt for clear premixes such as ModMyMods Mod Water, Aquacomputer DP Ultra, Mayhems X1, etc. I am not a fan of Cryofuel, seen even the clear gunk up on people and their opaques are pure garbage (to be fair, most are).

AIO? Like, you salvaged the rad off one? 
Dump it, go to the nearest supermarket and get distilled water, use that. 
Short term just distilled will be fine, if it's an only copper and nickel loop just a basic biocide to keep things from growing should be good. 
I'm lazy, I buy EK's Cryofuel Clear premix in 1L bottles and just use that. Haven't had any issues with it. 

I would recommend Thermalright FC140.
 
I see it dominate AIOs and other air coolers all the time 😁

Any deepcool air cooler will be worth owning,I have a as500 plus and love it.

If it’s not on the QVL there are no guarantees that it will run in a stable manner. 

I had delta 80mms that was 4k i think.They cooled amazing but louder then a hair dryer on high.

I have a little 92mm 4000RPM ripper that blows as hard, or harder than a 140mm iPPC 3K 😄
 
It also removes flesh if you get too close, and it will blow your header if you hot plug it 🙂

I'd go with a 360mm AIO personally.  The 13700k is arguably the best gaming CPU for Intel, so in that vein I'd get the best cooling for the best chip.  It'll eek a little more out of it.